Budget hotels in Sikkim

Sikkim

Population: 490,000
Capital: Gangtok
Area: 7200 sq km
Best Time to Visit: March to August
Literacy Rate: 55%
Main Language: Nepali

Sikkim has breathtaking mountain terrain and interesting Buddhist monasteries. It is bordered by Nepal in the east, Tibet-China in the north and northeast, Bhutan in the southeast, and West Bengal in the south. Sikkim rises from 300m above sea level in the plains to Mt Kanchenjunga at 8586m. This mountain is the third highest mountain in the world.

Sikkim is the second smallest state in India, only 112km long and 65km wide. It is home to over 600 species of orchids.

Sikkim is historically a Buddhist kingdom, and has over 250 Buddhist monasteries, most belonging to the Nyingma-pa sect. Because of its remoteness, it is fairly difficult to visit. Foreigners require special permits, which are easy to obtain. The trek to the base of Kanchenjunga (now called Kangchendzonga) must be organized by a recognized travel agent. Foreigners are not permitted to visit the eastern part of Sikkim, near the Tibet border.

Sikkim became a semi-independent protectorate when India achieved Independence in 1947. During the 1970s, the Nepalese in Sikkim moved to have Sikkim become part of India. The chogyal (king) finally allowed a vote. After 97% of the population voted in favor of Sikkim becoming part of Indian, Sikkim became India’s 22nd state in 1975.

The best time to visit is between the end of March to June and mid-September to November. During April and May, the orchids and rhododendrons are blooming, and in October and November, the sky is clear and it is not too cold. During the monsoon season from July until the beginning of September, the heavy rains make the roads impassable. Between December and mid-March, the weather is very cold.

The Pang Lhabsol Festival is held in Aug-Sept.

History
The Lepchas were Sikkim’s early inhabitants. In the 13th century, Tibetans first established Buddhism. In the 17th century three Tibetan monks belonging to the Nyingma-pa order came to Yuksom in western Sikkim because of friction in Tibet between the Gelug-pa (“Yellow Hats”) and Nyingma-pa (“Red Hats”). After consulting an oracle, they crowned the first chogyal (king) of Sikkim, Phuntsog Namgyal, in 1642. The Nyingma-pa Buddhists stayed mainly in Sikkim, and the Gelug-pa sect mainly moved to North India.

Sikkim became a British protectorate in 1861, at which time the British began to bring Nepalese to Sikkim to work on the tea plantations. The Nepalese now outnumber both the original Lepchas and the Tibetans, making up 75% of the population. The original Lepchas now make up about 18% of the population. They are peaceful and helpful people. The Dzongu area in north and central Sikkim is reserved for the Lepchas.

Sikkim Permits
Foreigners must have a permit to enter Sikkim. A permit allows a fifteen-day stay in Sikkim, and visitors can obtain a fifteen-day extension at the Home Office (Tashiding Secretariat) in Gangtok. After this period, foreigners are not permitted to enter Sikkim again for three months. The standard permit allows trips to Gangtok, Rumtek, Pemayangtse, and Phodang, but requires foreigners to stay on the National Highway. By getting a special endorsement through the Permit Office in Gangtok you can visit places around Pemayangtse such as Tashiding Gompa and Khecheopari Lake. Permits are checked when entering and departing Sikkim, at Legship, and at Yuksom.

You can get permits from:
Indian embassy overseas (you ask for the permit when applying for an Indian visa)

Resident Commissioner
Government of Sikkim
14 Panchsheel Marg, Chanakyapuri,
New Delhi (011 301 5346)
Foreigners’ Registration Offices in Delhi, Kolkata Calcutta, Darjeeling or Mumbai
Sikkim Tourism Center
SNT Bus Compound, Tenzing Norgay Rd,
Siliguri (0353 243-2646)
Deputy Commissioner, below the Gymkhana Club, Darjeeling
Sikkim Tourism Center
4C Poonam, 5 Russell St,
Kolkata (Calcutta) (033 2281-5328)

Permits are usually issued within a few hours. You need to have your passport, a photo, and a photocopy of the passport information pages and the page containing your Indian visa. The date of entry must be stated on the permit application. There is no charge.

To visit Tsongo Lake (a one-day permit) and Yumthang in North Sikkim (five days and four nights), visitors require a special permit, which is issued at the permit office in Gangtok. These places must be visited through an authorized travel agency (with a minimum of four people), so it is best to have the travel agency arrange the permit.
To trek in the Dzongri area of West Sikkim (the only area allowed in Sikkim), visitors require a special permit, available at the permit office in Gangtok or from the Sikkim Tourist Information Centre in New Delhi. Two mountains in the Dzongri area, Jopunob and Thingchen Khang (both around 6000m), can be climbed without having to pay the usual fee required for a mountaineering peak, as long as the climbs are combined with a trek.

Kanchenjunga National Park
Usually only those on a mountaineering expedition or trek organized by an authorized travel agency are permitted to enter the park. The travel agencies in Gangtok are the most experienced.
Those wishing to climb a peak over 6000m must obtain permission at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) (011 671-211; fax 688-3412), Benito Juarez Rd, Anand Niketan, New Delhi 110021.

Rumtek
Phone Code 03592
Rumtek, 24km from Gangtok at an altitude of 1500m, is the main place for the Kargyu-pa order (“Black Hat”) of Tibetan Buddhism. The Rumtek Monastery (252329; Web Site: http://www.rumtek.org) was founded in 1740, and was rebuilt after an earthquake destroyed it in the 1960s. It is designed in the traditional style after the principal Kargyu-pa monastery in Chhofuk, Tibet, with detailed woodwork and paintings. There are impressive golden statues of the 16th Gwalpa, who left Tibet when China invaded and came here. They are in a back room. There are paintings and thangkas on the walls.

The entrance is in the rear of the monastery. If it is locked, you have to look for someone to open it. Open 10 am to 5 pm in the winter and 8 am to 5 pm in the summer. Prayers are held around 5 am and 6 pm.

Behind the main temple is the Institute for Buddhist Studies, where the monks study. The main hall on the third floor has excellent wall paintings and statues of Shakyamuni Buddha (the historical Buddha) and one of Karmapa Rimpoche. His remains are in a chorten, across from the institute.

The interesting Old Monastery is a forty-five-minute walk down the hill. A monk at the Rumtek Monastery can show you the path.

Rumtek is the site of chaam dances, held two days before the Tibetan New Year in Feb and on the tenth day of the fifth month of the Tibetan calendar (July). At this time, monks dance to the playing of drums, horns, and cymbals. You can come a few days early to watch the rehearsals.

To enter foreigners have to show their passport. There is a small book and map on Rumtek (Rs 25), which can be gotten at the Golden Stupa, across from the institute.

Where to Stay and Eat
Sangay Hotel (252238), 100m down the road from the monastery, has basic, clean rooms with common bath for Rs 90/120. They have cheap meals.
Sungay Guest House (252221; Email: dechemb@dte.vsnl.net.in) have comfortable rooms with balconies and bath with hot water for Rs 150/200.
Kunga Delek Hotel, across from the monastery, has rooms for Rs 150/200.
Martam Resort (03592 23314), in the village of Martam, 5km from Rumtek, has rooms for Rs 1800/2300, which includes all meals. It is in a scenic location. Treks and horse riding can be arranged.
Shambhala Mountain Resort (03592 50766; fax 50765), about half a km from the gompa, has comfortable rooms and traditionally designed cottages. Many of the rooms have balconies with good views. It has a good veg restaurant.

Travel
From Gangtok, buses and shared jeeps come here. The SNT bus departs Gangtok (1 hr) to here at 4 pm and then returns the next morning around 8 am. From where the bus lets you off, it is a half-hour walk to the monastery. A city-tour arranged by the tourist office comes here for an hour, which is not enough time for most people.

Tsongo Lake (Changu Lake)
To visit this lake, 35km northeast of Gangtok, you require a permit and must go on a tour arranged by an authorized travel agency. The travel agency can arrange the permit, which is valid for only one day. From the ridge next to the lake there are some good views.

North Sikkim
To visit Yumthang Valley, north of Gangtok, you must arrange your trip with a travel agency with a minimum of four people.

Phodong
Phone Code :03592
The Phodong Gompa, 37km north of Gangtok, belongs to the Kagyu-pa order, the same order as the monastery in Rumtek. It is located high above the main road and there are good views of the area. The monastery was founded in 1740, but the present building is fairly recent. It is not as interesting as the gompa in Rumtek. There are chaam dances in December. About fifty friendly monks live here. Across from the gompa is a community of nuns who also belong to the Kagyu-pa order.

The Labrang Gompa, 2km away, belongs to the Nyingma-pa order. The leeches can be bad walking to this place.

Practicalities
These places are in the village of Phodang, about one km from the gompa.

Northway Lodge (262953) has rooms with common bath for Rs 150. Some rooms have a view. Yak and Yeti Lodge has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 100/140 and with bath for Rs 200. It is a good value.

A bus departs Gangtok to here at 8 am and returns around 2 pm.

Yumthang Valley
This valley, 140km north of Gangtok, is at an elevation of 3600m. The valley can be visited, but trekking is not allowed. There are Hot Springs here located a few minutes walk from the road. The best time to visit the valley is in April and May, when the rhododendrons are in bloom. To come here, you require a permit and must arrange your trip through an authorized travel agency with at least four other people.

Western Sikkim
This is where one is most likely to see the real Sikkim. Yuksom, in Northwest Sikkim, was the first capital. The main activities to do here are the trek to Dzongri at the base of Kanchenjunga, trekking in the area of Pemayangtse, and visiting the monasteries of Tashiding and Pemayangtse. The land is beautiful and it is a pleasant place to trek.

Foreigners are required to have a permit to visit Western Sikkim. You mainly travel on foot here and the views are excellent.

Jorethang and Naya Bazaar
Jorethang is just 30km north of Darjeeling. You may travel through here while going to somewhere else.

Hotel Rangeet Valley (03595 57263), across from the bus stand, has rooms with bath for Rs 250/300. It has a restaurant.
Hotel Namgyal, (257263), near the bus stand going towards the bridge, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 350/450. Rooms have bath, hot water and TVs.

From Jorethang there are buses to Yuksom (3 hr, in the morning), Legship (1 hr) and Gezing (2½ hr). There are shared jeeps to Gangtok (3 hr), Darjeeling (3 hr), Gezing (2½ hr), Legship (1 hr) and Siliguri (3½ hr).

Geyzing (Gyalshing)
You may travel through Gezing, 15km from Legship and 110km west of Gangtok. There is a busy Friday market. You can change travelers cheques at the Central Bank of India, near the town square.

Where to Stay
Hotel Mayalu has basic rooms for Rs 90.
Hotel Kanchanzonga, above the town square, has rooms with common bath for Rs 150.
Hotel Attri (03593 250602), above the town square, has clean, peaceful rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 500/600. There are good views from the terrace.

Travel
There are SNT buses to Pelling (30 minutes, 8 am, 1 pm, 2.30 pm), Gangtok at 8 am and 1 pm (4½hr), Yuksom at 8 am and 1 pm (4 hr), Jorethang, Tashiding, Darjeeling and Siliguri. To get to Kalimpong you first take a bus to Teesta Bazaar or Meli Bazaar and then get another bus from there.

There are many shared jeeps to Pelling and to Gangtok (4½ hr) via Jorethang or Rablonga. There is one shared jeep daily to Yuksom or Tashiding (Rs 70).

Pelling
Phone Code: 03593
Elevation 1870m

Pelling is a nice town located 2km from Pemayangtse Gompa. When the weather is clear, there are good views of Kanchenjunga. There are good budget places to stay and places to leave luggage while trekking.

Sweaters, hats, and scarves are available at the Cottage Industries Training Center.

If you walk around in the forest here, you have to be careful of leeches.

The is no where to change money here.

At the Superintendent of Police (250872), Sikkim permits may be extended.

Internet available District Administrative Centre, at Tikjuk, 4 km down on the road to Geyzining. Hours Mon-Sat 2pm-4pm.

Pemayangtse Gompa
This three-storey monastery, founded in 1705, is one of the oldest and most important gompas in Sikkim. It is the main gompa of the Nyingma-pa (“Red Hat”) order. The monastery has paintings and sculptures on the interior walls and a good collection of thangkas. It is 120km from Gangtok.

Pemayangtse means “Perfect Sublime Lotus.” There is a statue of Guru Rimpoche and Lhatsum Chempo, who founded this monastery and was one of the lamas who came to Yuksom from Tibet in the 17th century. It has a great location at 2085m, with mountains on two sides. Upstairs is an excellent wooden model depicting heavenly paradise.

In February during the Tibetan New Year there are chaam dances, performed by the monks on the 28th and 29th days of the twelfth lunar month. It is a 45-minute walk from Pelling to here. You can take the bus between Gezing (7km) and Pelling to the turnoff for Pemayangtse, and then it is a 15-minute walk.

Other Places to See
Sangacholing Gompa is a 45-minute walk west of Pelling (3km). It has nice paintings on its inside walls. It is the second oldest gompa in Sikkim, founded in 1697.

Sangay Waterfalls is 10km from Pelling, on the road to Dentam.

Ruins of Rabdentse Palace is excavation by the Archaelogical Survey of India of the former capital of Sikkim. Admission free. Open during daylight hours. There are some good views from here.

Where to Stay and Eat
Kabur Hotel (258504), in Upper Pelling, has rooms with bath with hot water and TV for Rs 400/500 and dorm beds for Rs 60. It has a restaurant.
View Point (50638) has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 300 and rooms with bath for Rs 500.
Garuda Hotel (258319), near where the bus stops, is a popular place with travelers that has clean rooms with common bath (bucket hot water) for Rs 150/200, a double with bath for Rs 450 and a deluxe double with hot water for Rs 550. It has a good, cheap restaurant. It is a helpful, well-managed place where you can safely leave your things while trekking. It has a trekking log worth looking at. Recommended.
Mt Pandim Hotel (250756), 2km from Pelling, in a peaceful location near the road leading to Pemayangtse Gompa, has rooms with bath for Rs 600/700 and a deluxe room with a view of Kanchenjunga for Rs 800/900 with an added 10% service charge. It has a restaurant. It could be better maintained.
Sikkim Tourist Centre (258556), uphill on the road to Geyzing, has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 850 and Rs 900 with a view, which includes meals. Can be reserved at a Sikkim tourist office.

T ravel
There are buses to Gezing (1 hr), Khecheopari Lake, Yuksom, Jorethang, Rimbi and Dentam. There is a daily shared jeep to Gangtok at 6 am. You should book a ticket in advance at the pan shop near the Hotel Garuda. There are shared jeeps to Gezing on Friday market day.
You can walk downhill to Gezing in an hour.

Khecheopari Lake
This lake, sacred to the Lepchas, is a popular place to which to trek. It is 26km from Pelling by road, and much shorter and steeper by foot (5 hr). Next to the lake is the village of Tsojo. The Khecheopari Gompa is about 1½ km from the lake. You can rent beds in the pilgrim hut for Rs 50, or at the trekkers’ hut. Both places are really basic. You can also stay in a room in a villager’s house. It can be very cold here, so you should bring proper bedding.

It takes about 3½ hr to walk from Khecheopari to Yuksom. The path is not always clear, so you should ask for assistance.

There is a daily bus from Khecheopari to Pelling at 7 am; returning at 3 pm.

Tashiding
This nice little town, 40km west of Gezing, may be visited while trekking. You are supposed to have your permits endorsed in Gangtok to visit here. It is possible to trek to Pemayangtse or Legship from here.

Tashiding Gompa
This monastery, established in 1716, is considered the second most important gompa in Sikkim, next to the Pemayangtse Gompa. It is a 45-minute walk from the village of Tashiding. There are chortens and mani walls surrounding the temple. The Bhumchu Festival is celebrated on the fifteenth day of the first month (March).

Where to Stay and Eat
Siniolchu Guest House (243248) has good rooms for Rs 150 amd nicer rooms for Rs 250. It serves meals.
Hotel Laxmi has rooms for Rs 70/120. It has a restaurant.
Blue Bird Hotel (243211) has rooms for Rs 70/110. It has good, basic food.

Travel
There is one bus a day in the morning to Legship and Gezing and a bus in the afternoon to Yuksom (2 hr). Tashiding is a one-day walk from Pemayangtse.

Yuksom (Yuksam or Yoksum)
Yuksom, 38km north of Pemayangtse, is the furthest north you are permitted to go by road and is the trailhead for the trek to Dzongri. This is where the three Buddhist lamas arrived from Tibet to establish the Buddhist Nyingma-pa (“Red Hat”) order. It was the first capital of Sikkim, and the first chogyal, Phutsog Namgyal, was crowned here. Now it is a small village.

Above the town is the Dubdu Monastery, built in 1701. Before walking here from Yuksom, you should find a monk to let you know if it will be closed. It is worth a visit for the interesting view. It is an hour walk from Yuksom.

Where to Stay and Eat
Hotel Dzongrila (241216) has basic rooms for Rs 100/150. It has a good restaurant.
Demazong Hotel, (241215) opposite, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 225 and rooms with hot water for Rs 450. Dorm beds Rs 70.
There is a Tourist Bungalow behind the Hotel Demazong that has beds for Rs 80. Another Tourist Bungalow is north of town and also has beds for Rs 70. You are supposed to reserve these places in Gangtok.
Arpun Restaurant has rooms for Rs 100/150. It has basic meals.
Hotel Wild Orchid has clean rooms for Rs 100/150 to Rs 250.
Hotel Tashi Gang (241202) has comfortable rooms for Rs 800/1100 and Rs 1400/1700 for a suite. It is on a hill above the village. It has a nice garden and a good restaurant.

Travel
There is a daily bus in the morning to Gezing via Tashiding and Legship. There is a shared jeep to Gezing. Yuksom is a 3-hour bus ride from Pelling and a 7-hour walk.

Treks in Sikkim
The facilities are not so developed for trekking in Sikkim. The best times to trek are March to May, and October to early December. The treks are not so difficult and do not go above 4000m.

During the rainy season, leeches can be a problem. They should not be pulled off, but you should use a match or salt to remove them.

Pelling to Legship via Khecheopari Trek

To do this trek, visitors must have their permits stamped in Gangtok, which allows them to go to Khecheopari Lake and Tashiling Gompa. From Pelling the trek goes to the Khecheopari Lake (4 hr), and from there to Yuksom (4 hr). From Yuksom you walk to Tashiling (7 hr), and from there, it is a one-hour walk to Legship.

Yuksom to Dzongri to Goecha La Trek
This is the most popular trek in Sikkim, and the scenery is excellent. From Dzongri and Goecha La there are great views of xe "Kanchenjunga" Kanchenjunga. Special permits are required for this trek, and trekkers are supposed to travel with at least four people and to have their trek arranged through an authorized travel agency in Gangtok. Travel agencies charge about $40 to 70 per day, which includes porters, yaks, and food. There are trekking huts along the route, but they are often full during the high season. Altitude sickness can sometimes be problem. May is a good time to make the trek, when the rhododendron are in bloom.

On Day 1, you go from Yuksom to Tsokha (2900m) in 8 hours, where there are some guesthouses to stay at. On Day 2, you pass some forest with beautiful rhododendron and then end at Phethang Meadows (3 hr) at 3760m. It is best to stay here for a day to acclimatize. On Day 4 you then proceed to Dzongri (4025m), where there are some trekkers’ huts to stay at. It could be a good idea to stay in Dzongri for a day to acclimatize and to see the beautiful views of Kanchenjunga at sunset and sunrise.

On Day 6, you make the four-hour walk to Dzongri La Pass (4500m), from where there are good views of Dome and Kabru. You then descend to Thangsing (3800m). On Day 7, you again ascend up to Samiti Lake (4 hr) at 4100m and can continue to Zemanthang where there is a trekkers’ hut. On Day 8, you make the hard walk up to Goecha La Pass (4940m) from where there are great views of Kanchenjunga. You then return back down to Thangsing (10 hr) or Samiti Lake. It then takes a couple of days to return to

Yuksom. There are trekkers’ huts at Thangsing and Samiti Lake. On Day 9, you go to Tsokha (8 hr, 23km), which brings you back to the path to Yuksom.


Gangtok

Pop: 30,000
Phone Area Code: 03592
Postcode 734301
Elevation 1675m

Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, is located on a ridge that overlooks the Ranipul River. Gangtok means “High Hill.” There are good views of the Kanchenjunga (Kangchendzonga) mountain range from many places in the city. Parts of the town have traditional wooden houses. It is a nice place to visit.

Gangtok is an industrial town and is also expensive because of its popularity with wealthy Indians. It is especially crowded during the Durga-puja celebration in late September or early October, and is best avoided at this time.

Orientation
There is a ridge that runs along the east side of town. In the north, on the ridge, are the telecommunications tower and the Enchey Gompa. East of town is the palace, and just south of the palace is the Tashling Secretariat complex. Most of the facilities are west of the ridge along or just off the town’s main road, the road to Darjeeling (National Highway 31A).

Information and Permits
The Sikkim Tourist Center (223425), corner of National Highway and MG Rd. Open daily during the season 9 am to 7 pm and between June to August, Mon to Fri 10 am to 4 pm.

During the high season, the tourist office organizes a tour of Gangtok in the morning to the Government Handicrafts, the Chorten, Deer Park, Orchid Sanctuary, and Enchey Gompa. The afternoon tour goes to the Orchidarium and Rumtek Gompa. There are also tours to Phodong and West Sikkim.

A website to check out is http://www.sikkiminfo.net

Permits to visit West Sikkim are obtained at the Permit Office, which is located in the same building as the tourist office. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 4 pm. To visit North Sikkim or Tsongo Lake, visitors need to apply with four people and have the trip arranged by an authorized travel agency. It is best to have the travel agency arrange the permit. You can apply for a permit extension at the Government of Sikkim Home Office, Tashiding Secretariat.

Government Institute of Cottage Industries, National Highway, north of the center of town, has a showroom selling Sikkimese carpets, thangka paintings, carvings, and handloom products. They are made on the premises, and you can view them being made. Open daily except Sun 9 am to 12.30 pm and 1.30 to 4 pm.

Money, Internet & Bookshops
You can change cash and travelers cheques at the State Bank of India,MG Marg, behind the tourist center on National Highway. Hours: Mon-Fri 10 am to 2 pm & 2:30 pm to 4 pm; Sat 10 am to 1 pm.

Internet at Sip'n'Surf, Lal Market Rd for Rs 35 per hour. Logon.com, MG Marg for Rs 50 per hr.Sikkim Tours, Church St, near the Tourist Centre, has email facilities.

Good Books, just off MG Marg at the end of the arcade has an excellent selection of books and maps on Sikkim. Jainco Booksellers, 31A National Hwy, also has a good selection.

Enchey Gompa
This interesting gompa of the Nyingma-pa order is located about 3km northeast of the center of town. Especially interesting are the religious chaam dances held on the 18th and 19th days of the twelfth lunar month (January). A masked lama performs the dance. It is a 45-minute walk from town.

Tsuk-La-Khang (Royal Chapel)
This beautiful building is the main place of worship for Buddhists in Sikkim. It contains statues of Buddha, of Bodhisattvas, and of Tantric deities. It also possesses a good collection of scriptures, nice wall paintings, and woodcarvings.

Visitors can usually visit only during Losar (the Tibetan new year) in late February or early March, at which time religious dances are performed by Buddhist monks depicting the victory of good over evil. If you are highly respectful, they may allow you in at other times.

Orchid Gardens Sanctuaries
The Orchid Sanctuary is home to as many as 450 species of orchids that are found in Sikkim. The best time to visit is April and early May, and between Sept and Dec. Open Daily 8 am to 4 pm.

The Flower Exhibition Centre has orchids and other flowers. Open April to June and Sept to Nov, daily 10 am to 6 pm.

The Orchidarium is an orchid sanctuary located off the road to Rangpo, 12km south of town. A local bus stops there.

There are nice gardens at White Hall, the chief minister’s residence.

Namgyal Institute of Tibetology
This institute was established in 1958 to promote Mahayana Buddhism and Tibetan traditions. It has a great collection of thangkas, manuscripts on Mahayana Buddhism, masks, and other works of art. They sell books on Tibetan Buddhism and crafts. Open Mon to Fri and every other Sat 10 am to 4 pm; admission Rs 3.

Do Drul Chorten and Gompa
This large white chorten is in the south part of town and is easily visible from many places. It is surrounded by 108 prayer wheels (should be turned clockwise). About half a km from the chorten is a gompa with large statues of the Buddha and Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche), who spread Buddhism in Tibet after his arrival in 747 AD.

Deer Park
This is a good viewpoint located near the Secretariat. A good time to come is when the deer are fed at 7.30 am.

Himalayan Zoological Park
Admission Rs 10. Hours: Daily 10 am to 5pm. Located across from Ganesh Tok viewpoint about 7km from Gangtok. Have red pandas and snow leopards.

View Points
It is a nice walk to Tashi Viewpoint, 9km north of town, passing Enchey Gompa on the way. There is a good view of the sun rising over Kanchenjunga. Hanuman Tok, 8km from town, has a temple and is a good viewpoint. Ganesh Tok, 7km from Gangtok, has good views.

The tourist office arranges a "three-point" tour that visit the main viewpoint in the area. You can hire a taxi to go to the three main viewpoints for around Rs 500. You can get a shared taxi to Tashi Viewpoint on MG Marg near the Hotel Golden Pagoda for Rs 20 per person.

Trekking and Tour Agencies
To do the Dzongri trek to Kanchenjunga or to visit North Sikkim, visitors require the services of a travel agency. Agencies can arrange tours of the gompas, white-water rafting, and some agencies rent equipment.

Bayyul Tours & Travels
27 Super Market (737-101)
Does treks to Dzongri and other areas.
Blue Sky Tours & Travels (2 branches)
Tibet Rd opposite the Hotel Lhakpa (223330; fax same)
(225113, Email: donib16@yahoo.co.in), Tourism Bldg, MG Marg
Does treks to West Sikkim and trips to North Sikkim. Nice budget tours. Been around a long time.
Hangu Travels
MG Rd (23517)
All around travels agency that does treks in Sikkim, Nepal and Bhutan, and foreign exchange and airline tickets.
Mahayana Tours & Travels
Room 23, Super Market Complex (23885; fax 22707)
Does treks and gompas tours.
Mayur Travels
National Highway 31A (23473; fax 22707)
Does local sightseeing.
Namgyal Sherpa
Tibet Rd (23791)
Does treks and expeditions in Nepal and other places.
Orchid Tours & Treks
15 Supermarket (22197)
Treks to Dzongri.
Potala Tours
Paljor Stadium Rd (22041)
Does treks at reasonable prices.
Sikkim Tours & Travels
Church Rd, near the private bus stand (222188; fax 222707; Email: sikkimtours@yahoo.com). Located near the police station.
Can do bird watching, photo, rafting and trek tours. Helpful, experienced place.
Sikkim Trekking & Travel Services
Room #1, Super Market Complex (23638; fax 22707)
They are professional and can organize trips to Bhutan and the Northeast states.
Sikkim World Expeditions
Zero Point, National Highway 31A (23494; fax 24195)
Trips to North Sikkim.
Siniolchu Tours & Travels
Paljor Stadium Rd (223546; fax 22707)
Tashila Tours & Travels
National Highway 31A (222979; fax 222155; Web Site http:www.tashila.com)
Does treks, rafting and gompa tours. Well-established place.
Yak & Yati Travels
Hotel Superview, Zero Point, National Highway 31A
(22714; fax 24643)
Does good tours at reasonable prices.
Yoksam Tours & Travels
National Highway 31A (23473; fax 22707)
Does treks to West Sikkim and trips to North Sikkim.

Where to Stay
During the peak season lodging is expensive in Gangtok. The lower priced places are usually full. There are often up to 30% discounts in the off-season from January to March and July and August. If an electric heater is available you will have to pay extra to use it in the budget places. During the winter you may want to ask about heating and hot water, as it can get very cold.

Where to Stay—Lower
Modern Central Lodge (224670), Tibet Rd, is a popular place with travelers that has clean basic rooms for Rs 150/200 and better rooms with a view for Rs 250. Rooms with bath are Rs 275/300 and Rs 400/450 with bath, hot water and good views. There is a TV room and a restaurant. It is a well-managed place and there is a travelers book with some useful comments. Has a snooker room. Recommended.
Hotel Lhakpa (223002), Tibet Rd, has really basic rooms with common bath for Rs 250/350, double rooms with bath for Rs 475, and a room with bath and hot water for Rs 700. It is a well-managed place.
Primual Lodge (23599), Church Rd, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 125/165. It is a good place.
Green Hotel (24049; fax 23354), MG Marg, near the tourist office, is a popular place that has clean rooms with bath (bucket hot water) for Rs 200/300 and Rs 400/500 for a room with bath and constant hot water. Some of the cheaper rooms can be a bit dreary.
Siniolchu Lodge (22074), near Enchey Gompa, has rooms with bath (bucket hot water) for Rs 125/200 and a room with constant hot water for Rs 200/300. It is away from the center of town and has good views. It is a good value.
Orchid (223151), National Highway, is a popular place with travelers that has rooms for Rs 400/45\0.
Hotel Lhakhar (225708), opposite the SNT bus stand, has clean, basic rooms with common bath for 350/425 and with bath for Rs 550/600. It is a friendly place. Recommended.
Hotel Laden La (23058), near Lall Market, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 175/250. The rooms in the front have good views.
Sunny Guest House (22179), near the Private bus stand, has rooms with common bath for Rs 250 and with bath for Rs 400 to Rs 450. It is a well-managed place.
Blue Heaven Lodge (23827), Paljor Stadium Rd, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 250/300 and better rooms with a view for Rs 400/500. It is a friendly place.

Where to Stay—Middle
Pine Ridge Hotel (24958) has small rooms with bath for Rs 450/550 and larger rooms for Rs 400/500. It is a good place.
Gangtok Lodge, MG Marg, across from the tourist office, has rooms for Rs 450 and a room with a view for Rs 500. They offer good discounts in the off-season.
Hotel Superview Himalchuli (22714) is a well-managed nice place with double rooms with bath for Rs 650. Dorm beds are Rs 75. There are great views and there is a telescope for seeing the mountains. It has an outdoors garden restaurant.
Hill View (23545), MG Rd, New Market, is a friendly place that has a quiet location and a nice garden. Rooms are Rs 700.
Travel Lodge (227143; Email: kglay@lycos.com), Tibet Rd, is a family-run place that has rooms with balconies for Rs 550/800. Rooms on the top floor have good views.
Yatri Niwas, Paljor Stadium Rd, is a nice place with clean, comfortable rooms for Rs 650 to Rs 900.
Hotel Sonam Delek (222566; Email: sig_hsdelek@sancharnet.in), Tibet Rd, is a nice place with clean rooms with common bath for Rs 750 and with bath (but no view) for Rs 1050 and a room with a great view for Rs 1500. There is a good discount in the off-season.
Hotel Tibet (222523; fax 222707; Email: htltibet@yahoo.com), Paljor Stadium Rd, is a popular place with comfortable rooms for Rs 1400/1700 up to Rs 1800/2400. The good restaurant here is the best one in town. It is a nice, peaceful place.
Denzong Inn (22692; fax 22362), next to the Denzong Cinema, near Lall Bazaar, has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 500/700. You can cook here for Rs 200 per day. Some rooms face the roof terrace, from where there are great views of Kanchenjunga. Recommended.
Hotel Mount View (23647), on Paljor Stadium Rd, has comfortable rooms with bath, hot water and a TV for Rs 500/600 up to Rs 900/1100.
Hotel Golden Pagoda (226928; Email: goldenpagoda@rediffmall.com), MG Marg, has comfortable rooms with good views for Rs 700/800. Rooms are a bit small but are still really nice.

Where to Stay—High
Norkhill Hotel (25637; fax 25639), near the stadium, has comfortable rooms for Rs 3000/3200 without meals and Rs 3600/4300 with meals. It used to be a royal guesthouse and has nice gardens.
Netuk House (22374; fax 24802) is a nice old traditional place with rooms with hot water for Rs 2000/2800, which includes meals. It is a quiet place with good views. It has only eight rooms. Recommended.
Hotel Tashi Delek (222991; fax 222362: Email: htd@hoteltashidelek.com), on MG Marg, has comfortable rooms for Rs 2900/3200 and suites with a great view for Rs 5000, which includes meals. The rooftop garden has a great view of Kanchenjunga. The lobby has a traditional Tibetan design. Recommended.

Where to Eat
The budget hotels usually have cheap restaurants that serve Indian, Chinese and Tibetan food.

Thali, upstairs on MG Marg, has good vegetarian food and thalis. It is in the arcade of Yama House.
Parivar Restaurant, MG Marg, downstair in the Yama House arcade, has good South Indian vegetarian dishes.
Metro Fast Food, opposite Gangtok Lodge on MG Marg, has cheap South Indian food and snacks.
New Kho-Chi Restaurant, below the Gangtok Lodge on MG Marg, has Indian and Chinese food.
Oyster Restaurant has Indian, Chinese, Tibetan and Continental food. It is a mid-range place.
The Green Hotel has good cheap food.
Blue Sheep, MG Marg, next to the tourist office, has good, reasonably priced Indian and Chinese food.It is a higher end place. This place gets good reviews.
Kikis Garden Restaurant, on the highest floor of the Super Market, has a Sikkimese buffet for Rs 90 per person. There are good views of Kanchenjunga from here.
Snow Lion Restaurant in the Hotel Tibet is the best place in town. It has very good Indian, Tibetan, Japanese and Chinese food. A main dish is around Rs 60.
Blue Poppy Restaurant in the Hotel Tashi Delek, has good Sikkimese, Chinese, Indian and Western food. The Sikkimese food should be ordered a day in advance.
Hotel Golden Pagoda (226928; Email: goldenpagoda@rediffmall.com), MG Marg, has a good rooftop vegetarian restaurants with fairly good views of the area.

Local Travel
You can go to most places in town for Rs 25. To hire a taxi for a day to visit the local tourist sites including Rumtek and Enchey gompas costs around Rs 600. To go to Rumtek roundtrip with an hour waiting time is around Rs 325.

Travel
Air The closest airport (5 hr by taxi) is in Bagdogra, 120km south.

Indian Airlines (23099) has an office on Tibet Rd. The owner of Green Hotel - Silk Route Tours & Travel (223354), MG Rd, is an agent for Indian Airlines.

RNC Enterprises (228652), MG Marg, is an agent for Jet Airways and books helicopter flights between Bagdogra airport and Gangtok helipad, which is 5km north of town.

Sikkim Helicopter Service arranges the flights between the airport and Gangtok. Flights usually depart Gangtok at around 11 am and depart the airport after the Indian Airlines from Delhi arrives in Bagdogra.

Train The closest railway station is in New Jalpaiguri (130km south). There is a railway reservation counter (222014) at the SNT bus stand with a ticket quota for trains departing from New Jalpaiguri.

Bus The Sikkim Nationalized Transport (SNT) (222016) bus stand is on Paljor Stadium Rd, but when arriving you may want to get off at the corner of MG Rd, where some hotels are located. The Private bus stand is on National Highway, about one km south of the SNT bus stand.

Buses should be booked in advance, especially during the Durga Puja festival (Sept/Oct). The booking office is open 9 am to noon and 1 to 2 pm.

There are state buses to Darjeeling (7 hr), Kalimpong (3 hr), Bagdogra (4½ hr) and Siliguri (5½ hr). Private buses departing from the private bus stand go to Siliguri, Kalimpong and Darjeeling. You can get to Darjeeling or Kalimpong by taking the bus that goes to Siliguri and changing at Teesta Bazaar.

Buses within Sikkim go to Rumtek (1½ hr, 4 pm), Jorethang (4 hr, 7 am and 2 pm), Phodang (2½ hr, 4 daily), and Gezing (for Pemayangtse 5 hr, 7 am & 1 pm) via Rablonga and Legship.

From Legship you can get a bus to Yuksom and Tashiding.

Taxi & Jeep From Lall Market, shared jeeps go to Rumtek (1 hr) and Tsongo Lake (2 hr). From Children’s Park, jeeps go to places in West Sikkim such as Gezing (5 hr), Pelling (6 hr) and Jorethang (3 hr) and places in North Sikkim such as Phodang (2 hr) and Tsongo Lake (2 hr).
From the Private bus stand you can get a shared jeep to Siliguri (3½ hr, Rs 125), Kalimpong (2½ hr, Rs 60) and Darjeeling (4 hr, Rs 115).
Around Gangtok

The most visited place in the area is the Rumtek Gompa. The second most visited place is Phodong Gompa. From Tashi View Point, 8km from Gangtok, there is an eastern view of Kanchenjunga and beautiful Siniolchu (6888m). Sphere: Related Content