Population: 90 million
Capital: Mumbai
Area: 307,000
Best Time to Visit: October to March
Main Language: Marathi
Literacy Rate: 63%
Maharashtra is the third largest state in India. Most people speak Marathi. Approximately 50% of the nation’s tax revenue and international trade come from this state. The main places visited in Maharashtra are Mumbai and the Ajanta and Ellora caves.
Originally the states of Maharashtra and Gujarat were united, but they were divided in 1960 on the basis of language.
Near Mumbai
Kanheri Buddhist Caves and Sanjay Gandhi Park
The Kanheri Buddhist Caves are located in Sanjay Gandhi National Park (Borivali National Park), 40km north of Mumbai. The caves are located 5km from the entrance of the park. The park is closed on Monday. Admission: Foreigners/Indians US$5/Rs 20
There are 109 caves, but only a few are worth seeing. The caves date from the 2nd to the 9th centuries and were excavated into the face of a hill in the center of Salsette Island. The most interesting cave, the Great Chaitya Cave (No 3), is a columnar hall with two standing figures of Buddha, each 5m (16½ ft) tall. Caves 1, 2, 3, 10, 11, 14, 21, 34, 35, 66, and 67 are interesting, and from cave 35 there is a good view of the sea. The caves are open from 9 am to 5.30 pm. You should bring your own water as the stalls near the caves sell only cold drinks.
To get to the caves, you take a suburban train (50-min) from Churchgate Station to Borivali Station, then an auto-rickshaw or taxi (8km) to the caves. Best to arrange a roundtrip fare plus waiting time. Set the fare for the waiting time and do not let the driver keep the meter running, as it may be tampered with. The bus to that used to go to Kanheri Buddhist Caves on Sundays and public holiday no longer operates. You can also visit the caves on the MTDC suburban guided tour.
There is a Lion Safari Park (daily except Mon 9 am to 5 pm) about half a km from the park entrance. Visitors must go by auto-rickshaw either from the caves or the train station.
Esselworld has thirty-five rides. It is located on Corao Island, near Govai Creek (Borivali-W). Admission is based on height (taller than 137cm is Rs 135), and the admission fee entitles you to unlimited rides as well as a visit to the Water Sport Complex. Open daily 11 am to 7 pm.
Bassein
Located in Bassein is what remains of the Portuguese city of Bassein. Bassein is located on the northern side of the Ulhas River, which separates Mumbai and the mainland. It was once a large city that contained the Cathedral of St Joseph (1536), thirteen churches, five convents and opulent houses. The Marathas attacked the city in 1739 and the Portuguese surrendered. The city walls are still intact, as are the cathedral and some of the churches. This place is on the coast, 11km west of the Bassein (Vasai) Road railway station.
Manori Beach
Manori Beach, about 40km north of downtown Mumbai, past Juhu, is a seaside resort for Mumbai’s wealthy. There are some all-night beach parties here. For Christmas and New Years, places here have to be booked months in advance.
Domonica (444-9735) has rooms for Rs 175 per person. This place must be booked in advance for weekend stays.
Doris Pinic Spot has an assortment of rooms.
Manoribel Hotel (269-1301) has rooms for Rs 500 (Rs 600 on the weekend), and cottages for Rs 900 (Rs 1800 on the weekend). It has to be booked in advance.
To get here you first take the local train from Churchgate to Malad, and then Bus #272 or an auto-rickshaw to Marve. Then take a ferry across Manori Creek, and from there it is 2km to Manori.
Igatpuri
Located here is the Vipassana International Academy (2553 4076; fax 2533 4276) founded by the SN Goehka, which has ten-day vipassana meditation courses. During the course one has to remain silent, except to ask questions to the instructors. One meditates around eleven hours daily. There are videotapes of SN Goenka shown, during which he gives instructions on the vipassana process.
During the course you are requested to not engage in any other spiritual practices such as chanting mantras, praying and doing yoga exercises.
There is basic accommodations and Indian vegetarian food is served. You can contact the center at Dhammagiri, PO Box 6, Igatpuri, Dist. Nasik 422 403. Igatpuri is around 130km northeast of Mumbai, on the train line to Nasik. The center is about 1km from the railway station.
Trimbak
Population 8,000
The town of Trimbak (“three eyes”) is 30km west of Nasik. One of the twelve Siva Jyotirlingas is located here, and it is close to the source of the holy Godavari River. There is also an impressive Maratha Fort on the nearby hill.
Trimbakeswara Temple
The three lingas in this 18th century temple, dedicated to Trimbakeswara, are eye-shaped. Tri means “three,” and ambak means “eye.” The three-eyed deity is Lord Siva. Trimbakeswara is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. This interesting temple was built in 1730 by Baji Rao Peshwa, and it cost almost 1 million rupees. There is a large tower over the sanctuary.
Non-Hindus are not permitted into the temple, but they are permitted to climb the steps and to look inside. I went inside and no one said anything.
Source of Godavari River
Trimbak is the source of the Godavari, which is one of the most important holy rivers in India. This river flows almost 1,000km east to the Bay of Bengal. It is said that this is the exact spot where the drop of nectar fell from the Kumbha vessel, for which the Kumbha-mela is famous. To reach Gangasagar, a tank of water fed by the Godavari’s source, you must climb a flight of 690 stairs. It is said that both the Ganges and Godavari emanate from the same source and meet in an underground passage. Bathing here is said to cleanse you of the worst sins.
The roundtrip climb to Brahmagiri, the Godavari’s source, takes two or three hours and is best done in the morning. It is a difficult climb, so you should bring water with you. On the way, you will pass a temple dedicated to the Goddess Ganga, a cave containing 108 Siva-lingas, a temple dedicated to the sage Gautama Rishi, whose ashram was said to be here, and the remains of the Anjeri Fort. About twenty minutes from the Anjeri Fort is the Gaumukha (Mouth of the Cow) Temple, where the source of the Godavari is located.
Kushawarth Tirtha
A few minutes’ walk from the Trimbakeswara Temple is Kushawarth Tirtha, a bathing tank, said to contain Ganges water. This place is mentioned in the Puranas. It is said to have been named for the sacred kusha grass that used to grow in profusion around it.
Practicalities
Trimbak is a nice, peaceful place, so you may want to stay overnight. The MTDC Tourist Bungalow is the best place to stay, but it is quite basic. All the eating places are basic.
There are hourly buses from Nasik (45 min) from the City bus stand. You can take a bus back to Nasik or one of the shared taxis that wait outside the bus stand.
Khaildabad (Rauza)
Khaildabad is located between the Ellora caves and Aurangabad. At this place is the modest mausoleum of Aurangzeb, the cost of which was funded by the income he received by personally copying the Koran. There are several shrines of Sufi saints nearby.
The mausoleum of the Muslim saint, Sayeed Zain-ud-din, is located close to Aurangzeb’s tomb. Embedded in the steps leading to the tomb are polished semi-precious stones. Located here is the Robe of the Prophet, which is shown once a year on the twelfth day of the month of Rabi-ul-Awwal (usually November). This is a major event.
Close by is the mausoleum of Sayeed Burha-ud-din (1334), a Chishti saint and what are said to be hairs from the Prophet’s beard.
Buses come here about every half-hour from Aurangabad.
Daulatabad Fort
The interesting Daulatabad Fort is located 13km (9 mile) northwest of Aurangabad on the road to Ellora. A 5km wall surrounds the fort, and it has a central fort built on volcanic lava rock, 200m above the rest of the area.
The Yadava dynasty’s Bhilama Raja constructed it in the 12th century. Daulatabad means “City of Fortune.” In 1327 the Delhi sultan, Mohammed Tughlaq (who was known to be insane), seized Daulatabad and decided to make it his capital. He marched the residents of Delhi here and seventeen years later marched them back. Many of the residents died on the 1100km (690 mile) march.
Three walls surround the fort. The first gate of the fort has huge elephant spikes to prevent elephant attacks. The Jama Masjid, built in 1318 by the Delhi sultan, is constructed from the remnants of Hindu and Jain temples in the area, including 106 carved pillars. The Chand Minar victory tower (1435) is near the mosque. Nearby is the Elephant Tank, the fort’s water supply.
The third gate is known as Chini Mahal, and it is where Aurangzeb imprisoned the last ruler of Golconda in 1687 for thirteen years. The huge (6m) cannon called Qila Shikan (Fort Breaker) is on a tower at the bottom of the hill.
The bottom of the hill was surrounded by a moat containing crocodiles. Until recently, the only entrance to the Central Fort on top of the hill was a pitch-black tunnel 190m (640 ft) long. No attacker ever made it to the top, but it was captured by putting the fort to siege. The water supply ran out.
To get to the top, attackers had to climb through the long, tortuous tunnel in the dark, which at one point divides and meets again so that enemy soldiers might attack one another unknowingly in the dark. Also, defenders could throw hot coal into the tunnel to fill it with toxic fumes. If an attacker survived all that, he would be forced to crawl the last few metres of the tunnel, so one could be attacked while he was bent over.
At the end of the tunnel is an interesting 12-pillared hall. There are great views from the top of the hill. There is a huge cannon and an ancient rock-cut cave.
You can stop here on the way to the Ellora caves, which the tour buses do. But they do not stop long enough to get a good look at the place. There are regular buses to here from Aurangabad (every hour). The resident guides who bring you to the top of the fort with the help of a torch do a good job. Without a good flashlight you cannot see anything in the passageways. Open daily dawn to 6 pm. There is a small MTDC restaurant here.
Jalgaon
Pop: 250,000
Phone Code: 0257
To get to the Ajanta Caves (58km south, 1½ hr), you may have to stop here. There is nothing to see in this town. Most people will only stay here while traveling between the caves and somewhere else. Jalgaon is on the main Mumbai to Delhi line.
Where to Stay
The railway Retiring Rooms are a good value.
PWD Rest House (29702) is a good place with rooms for Rs 125 per person.
Tourist Hotel (225-192), Nehru Chowk, half a km from the railway station to the right, has rooms with bath for Rs 175/200 and deluxe rooms for Rs 300/350.
The nearby Hotel Morako (26621) has rooms for Rs 300/400 and Rs 650 with A/C.
Amram Guest House (226-549), by the station, is one of the better budget hotels.
The new Hotel Plaza (227-354), Station Rd, is the best mid-range place. It has clean rooms with bath and TV for Rs 200/250. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Galaxy (23578) has rooms with TV for Rs 200/300 and Rs 550 with A/C.
Hotel Anjali, right outside the station to the right, has good, clean room for Rs 250/300. It has a good veg restaurant.
Travel
The railway station is on the main Delhi-Mumbai line, so several trains a day depart from here to Mumbai (8 hr) and to Delhi. Trains also go to Bhopal (8 hr) and Nagpur.
There is an hourly bus to Ajanta which continues on to Aurangabad (4 hr). Be sure to confirm that the bus stops at the caves, as some buses go only as far as Fardapur, four km from Ajanta.
Lonar Meteorite Crater
Located about five hours northeast of Aurangabad, at Lonar, is a huge crater formed by a falling meteorite, believed to be 40,000 years old. The crater is 2km in diameter and hundreds of metres deep. Hindu temples have been constructed at the bottom of the crater. This is a nice peaceful place to visit.
The MTDC Hotel, next to the crater, has basic rooms for Rs 50. They also have a big tent to stay in, but it has no beds and you have to sleep on the ground.
To get here, you can take a train or bus from Aurangabad to Jalna, and from there a bus. There is a bus from Fardapur (1½ hr) to Buldhana, from where you take another bus to Lonar.
Sevagram
Mahatma Gandhi established an ashram here in 1936 and used it as his base until Independence. There are adobe huts, present during Gandhi’s time, including huts where Gandhi lived (Niwases and Kutirs)—all of which have been left exactly as they appeared in the 1930s.
His hut includes his original bed and some of his personal items—his spinning wheel, his three brass monkeys, and his glasses. In Mahatma Gandhi’s office is a phone put in by the British as a “hot-line” to Delhi. It is a very friendly place, and tours are easily available. There are multi-faith prayer meetings held under the pipal tree Gandhi planted (4.45 and 6 pm),
The Centre of Science for Villages has a photo exhibit of his life. It also has exhibits illustrating the concept of Gandhi’s self-sufficient village economics. There is a shop that sells khadi (hand-spun cotton) products and books by Gandhi. The Kasturba Gandhi Hospital, named after Gandhi’s wife, provides discount health care for the local villagers. Phone: 07152 43526.
Practicalities
The Yatri Nivas, at the ashram, has basic rooms and vegetarian meals for a donation. In Wardha, twenty minutes away, there is an MTDC Hotel with rooms for Rs 250/300 and dorm beds Rs 75. 8 am checkout.
The closest railway stations are in Sevagram and Wardha. Express trains take 1 hr from Nagpur. Buses from Nagpur to Wardha take 2½ hours. There are regular buses from Wardha to the ashram (twenty minutes). From Sevagram railway station it costs Rs 70 by auto-rickshaw.
Paunar
Located in Paunar, 3km from Sevagram, is the ashram of Gandhi’s good friend and disciple, Vinoba Bhave, founded in 1938. It was established following the principle of swarajya, or self-sufficiency. Taking place here is hand-spinning cloth, milk production, and food growing. The sadhaks in this ashram are almost all women.
There is a Memorial on the bank of the Paunar River which marks where some of Gandhi’s ashes were scattered, and another memorial where Vinoba’s ashes were placed. Every February 12th, over a 100,000 people come here to celebrate the anniversary of Gandhi’s death.
It is possible to stay at the ashram in a private room or a dorm, if they are available. You get to Paunar from Nagpur or Wardha by bus (ask to be let down at the correct place). You can also walk here from Sevagram.
Ramtek
Ramtek, 40km northeast of Nagpur, has a fort that contains several ancient hilltop temples (on Ramtek Hill). It is said that Rama and Sita came here on their way back from Lanka. Most of the main temples are dedicated to Sita and Rama. The famous Sanskrit poet Kalidas also lived here, and this is where he wrote his famous work Meghdoot. Most of the temples date from the 18th century. There are good views from on top of the hill.
About a 1km from Ramtek Hill is the holy Ramsagar Lake, where several temples are located.
The MTDC Holiday Resort (07114 55620) has basic rooms for Rs 175 and dorm beds.
There are regular buses to here from Nagpur (1 hr).
Taroba National Park
This park, located 45km from Chandrapur and 150km from Nagpur, is home to tigers, leopards, sambars, wild boars, jackals, gaurs, chitals, nilgais, marsh crocodiles and, water birds. It has a teak and bamboo forest and a lake. The best times to visit are November to June, and especially during March to May.
Minibuses go on tours of the park. The best time to go out is in the evening or at night (use a searchlight).
There are three basic Forest Rest Houses near the lake. They should be arranged in advance with the Division Forest Officers, W Chanda Division, Mul Rd, Chandrapur.
The Mayur Hotel (3712) is located in Chandrapur on Mul Rd, 1km from the railway station.
Karla and Bhaja
The Hinayana Buddhist caves at Karla and Bhaja, dating from the 2nd century BC, are some of the best cave temples in India. The caves can be very crowded on weekends and holiday, so best to visit on a weekday. The caves are nowhere near as impressive as Ellora and Ajanta, but are worth seeing if you are passing through.
Karla (Karli) Cave
Located in Karla is the largest and best-preserved Hinayana Buddhist cave temple in India. The caves here were carved around 80 BC.
The chaitya hall (40m long, 15m wide) has wooden teak beams supporting the ceiling. It also contains thirty-seven pillars, each of which are supported by a kneeling elephant with the figure of a person on top. Outside the cave there is a pillar with four lions standing back to back at the top. The caves (02114 282115are open 8 am to 6 pm. Admission Rs 5for Indians and US$2 foreigners.
Bhaja Caves
Bhaja is an easy 5km walk from Karla. When you reach Bhaja village there are steps that lead up to 19 caves, all of which date from the 2nd century BC.
The caves here are not so impressive, but they do contain some good sculptures. Cave 12 is the most interesting. The sculpture of a war elephant tearing up trees is interesting.
On the right side, behind Cave 12, are fourteen small stupas. In Cave 19 (the last cave) there are good carvings. Viewing the caves is Rs 5 for Indians, but US$2 for foreigners.
There is a waterfall a few minutes walk past the last cave.
The Lohaged (4km) and Visapur Forts are a good climb above the caves.
Where To Stay
MTDC Karla Resort (02114 282230; fax: 282370), just off Mumbai-Pune Highway has cottages for Rs88 and deluxe rooms for Rs 1100.
Bedsa
There are also Buddhist Caves in Bedsa, about 20km from Karla and 12km from Bhaja. The chaitya hall is fairly simple. From the town of Bedsa it is an uphill walk for 3km.
Practicalities
Peshwa Holiday Resorts, near the Karla caves, is a decent place to stay with rooms from Rs 200/350 and Rs 650 for an A/C cottage.
Karla is about 126km southeast of Mumbai. You can get to Karla by taking a train (2 hr) from Mumbai to Lonavla. From Lonavla, it is a 14km bus or taxi ride to the foot of the hill at Karla. During the monsoon, the road may be closed. Karla is 1km north of the main road and Bhaja is 3km south of the main road.
It is a 5km (1½ hr) walk from Karla to Bhaja. From Bhaja it is a 3km (1 hr) walk to Malavli, from where you can take a local train to Lonavla.
An auto-rickshaw from Lonavla railway station to Karla and Bhaja (plus waiting time) is about Rs 300; a taxi Rs 500.
Near Pune
Sinhagad (Sinhagard)
Visiting Sinhagad (Lion Fort) is an interesting day-trip from Pune (24km northwest). This ruined fort, located on a high hill, is where Tanaji Malasure, one of Shivaji’s generals, led a successful attack on the fort controlled by the Bijapur kingdom. It is said that the Marathas took the fort by engaging Yashwati, an iguana to carry a rope ladder up the hillside to the fort so they could scale the almost impregnable wall. There is a monument where Tanaji lost his left hand and another where he eventually died. It is said that when Shivaji heard about Tanaji’s death he said “I have won the fort but have lost my lion.” Thus the fort was named Sinhagad, “Lion Fort.” There is a house here where Mahatma Gandhi met the freedom fighter Tilak in 1915.
From Pune, Bus #50 comes to the village of Sinhagad at the bottom of the hill on which the fort is situated. You catch the bus at the bus stop across from Nehru Stadium. There is a road leading up to the fort, which can be reached by car. If you come by local bus, the place where the bus lets you off is about a two-hour, difficult trek up the hill. You should bring water and food with you.
Near Mahabaleswara
Panchgani
Panchgani is a popular hill station, 20km east of Mahabaleswara. It is a pleasant place with some good viewpoints.
Hotel Simla (40235), near the bus stand, has nice rooms built around a garden for Rs 200/275 (Rs 400/600 during season).
Hotel Prospect (40236) is a British built hotel with big, comfortable roosm for Rs 800 (Rs 1100 during season). It is on a hill.
Pratapgarh Fort
This impressive fort (1656), 24km from Mahabaleswara, contains a statue of Shivaji. At this place, Shivaji, leader of the Marathas, and Afzal Khan, the general of the Bijapur army, decided to meet about a possible truce. Neither was supposed to carry weapons or wear armor, but Afzal Khan hid a knife and during the meeting, stabbed Shivaji, who was wearing a mail shirt under his robe. Shivaji then pulled out his waghnakh (metal claws) with his left hand and killed Afzal Khan. Located here is a memorial to Shivaji, and Afzal Khan’s tomb.
There is great view of the area surrounding the fort.
The MTDC tour from Mahabaleswara comes here. A bus from Mahabaleswara takes one hour (24km).
Satara
Located here are former possessions of the famous Maratha leader, Shivaji. Near the palace is a building containing the waghnakh with which he killed Afzal Khan, and his mail shirt. His sword is also here. The Shivaji Maharaja Museum is across from the bus station.
Wasota Fort is south of the city. Aurangzeb and his army took it from the Marathas in 1699. It was retaken by the Marathas in 1705.
Satara is 40km south of Mahabaleswara.
Raigad Fort
Shivaji ruled from this fort during the later part of his life after capturing it in 1648 (he was crowned Maharaja of the Marathas in 1674). Shivaji died in the fort in 1680. The fort is located 80km northwest of Mahabaleswara. Visitors must climb 1,400 steps to the top of the hill to where the fort is actually located. There are several buildings in the fort. In the northeast corner is Shivaji’s Samadhi (memorial tomb) along with a chhatri for his dog. It is possible to hire a dhoolie and to be carried up the steps. Admission: Foreigners/Indian US$5/Rs 5. Hours: Daily 8 am to 5pm
There are great views from the fort, especially looking out at the lakes to the north.
There is a MTDC tourist bungalow here with rooms for Rs 450 and dorm beds for Rs 60.
There are buses to Pune (125km) and Mumbai (210km).
Murud & Janjira Fort
Murud is 160km south of Mumbai. Off the coast is the Janjira Fort, the 16th century capital of the Siddis of Janjira. It is reached from the village of Murud by boat (around Rs 50). The fort with its 14m high walls was impregnable. Both Shivaji and his son Sambhaji tried to unsuccessfully take the fort.
About 1km north of Murud is the hilltop Dattatreya Temple. Dattatreya has three heads, which represents Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva. There is a good view from the hill.
The 18th century Nawab’s Palace is 2km north of Murud. It is closed, but you may be able to get the watchman to let you in. It has stained glass windows, carved and marble antique furniture, and old photos.
Practicalities
Ruchit (021447 4219), a three-minute walk from the bus stand next to the beach, has four rooms for Rs 600. It is a well-managed place with a good garden and a good restaurant.
MTDC Beach Resort (021447 4078) has basic rooms for Rs 700/1100.
Buses departing Mumbai Central take six hours to arrive in Murud. Two express buses arrive at 6 am and 11 am, which should be booked in advance. The nearest railway station is at Indapur.
Kashid
Kashid, 140km south of Mumbai, has 3km of beautiful, clean beaches. It is a good place for swimming.
Kashid Beach Resort (02144 85010; Mumbai 262-5406) has rooms with an ocean view for Rs 1100. It has a pool.
It takes four hours to arrive in Kashid on a bus from Mumbai Central.
Solapur
Pop: 640,000
Visitors may have to travel through Solapur to catch a train.
There are railway Retiring Rooms and dorm beds available.
Rajdhani (23291), 26 Railway Lines, has basic rooms and an A/C restaurant.
Surya International (29501; fax 29505), 3/2/2 Murarji Path, has rooms for Rs 400/500 and Rs 600/700 with A/C.
Pratham (29581; fax 28724), Sadar Bazaar, has clean, comfortable rooms with bath for Rs 550/650. It is well-managed and has a good, outdoor restaurant.
There are many trains departing from Solapur to Mumbai, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai, and Bijapur.
Ajanta
This is the location of the beautiful Buddhist rock-cut caves, which contain sculptures and beautiful specimens of Indian mural paintings on the walls. Ajanta is located 420km northeast of Mumbai and 1120km southwest of Delhi. This is one of the major tourist places in India. For years the caves were hidden below ground, but were re-discovered by a small group of British officers out hunting in 1819.
The colors in the paintings are made from ingredients collected in the local area, except for the bright blue, which is made from lapis lazuli. On the walls of the caves are paintings depicting the Jatakas and episodes of the Buddha’s life.
There are twenty-nine caves in all, constructed between 200 BC to 650 AD. The most interesting ones are 1, 2, 9, 10, 12, 16, 17, 19, and 26. The caves here are famous both for their intricate carvings and for their ancient murals. The caves are numbered consecutively from the western side, but their numbers bear no relation to when they were built. To see the actual development of Buddhist rock-cut architecture, view the caves in the following order. 10, 9, 12, 19, 24, 26, 2, 1.
Cave 1 has both intricate carvings and paintings. It is the best and most recent of the caves. Cave 4 is a vihara, used mainly as living space. It contains elaborate sculptures. Caves 2, 16, 17, and 19 have the best paintings. Caves 17, 19, and 26 have the best sculptures. Cave 10 is the oldest and also was the first cave to be discovered. Caves 9, 10, 19, 26, and 29 are chaityas and were used for worship. The other twenty-five caves are viharas.
Information
When you arrive at the caves, expect to be harassed by the aggressive salesmen trying to sell you things. It is best to ignore them unless you want to buy something.
Besides the entry charge, you have to obtain a lighting ticket so that one of the guards will light up the caves. Otherwise, you will not be able to see anything.
I recommend that you carry a good flashlight with you. Our guide did not have one and had to borrow one from one of the people taking the tour. Even with the lights on in the cave, many paintings are still difficult to see because they are so old. Flash photograph is not permitted because the flash damages the paintings. As the light is dim even with the lights on, if you want to take a decent photo, you should use extremely fast speed film.
You can get Mitra’s inexpensive guidebook, Ajanta, at the ticket office for a detailed explanation of the caves. The Archaeological Survey of India publishes a photo book on the caves.
There is a cloakroom to leave luggage near the stalls selling souvenirs.
Near Cave 16, by the carved elephant, there are steps leading down to the river, where you can take a nice walk by a waterfall and near a forest area. From the garden along the riverbank is a path leading to the “view point,” which looks out across the ravine. From there it is possible to get a good view of the caves and the surrounding area. To reach the “view point” requires a difficult thirty-minute climb. The waterfalls are down a path from Cave 26.
The caves are open from 9 am to 5.30 pm. It is best to avoid public holidays or weekends because of the large crowds. Ajanta is a popular tourist spot.
Mahayana Group
Cave 1 (late 5th century) is a vihara and contains several outstanding murals on the walls. In the center of the cave is a large shrine of the Buddha supported by Indra. Above the verandah there are friezes of a sick man, an old man, a corpse, and a saintly person. When Buddha saw such persons, he realized the miseries of material existence. There are panels of groups of foreigners in the four corners. The Mahajanaka Jataka on the left wall depicts when the Buddha took the form of an able and just ruler. There is also a scene of him being enticed by beautiful women. On the right side of the cave are four deer, all connected to the same head.
On either side of the shrine room are two of the most famous paintings at Ajanta. On the left is the Bodhisattva Padmapani holding a blue lotus and standing with his wife; to the right is the Boddhisattva Avalokiteswara.
Inside the shrine, Buddha is seated in a teaching position. When the guard shines a light on the left side of Buddha’s face, he appears solemn and contemplative. When the light is shined on the right side of his face, he is smiling in joy.
Cave 2 (6th century) is a vihara hall. It has intricately carved columns and excellent paintings. The ceiling is painted like a draped cloth canopy. On the left wall is a painting of the Birth of Buddha and another of the Thousand Buddhas, showing when the Buddha multiplied himself to confuse a non-believer. On the right of the main shrine is the Hariti painting, depicting an ogress who eats children. There is a painting of the Buddha’s mother having a dream about a six-tusked elephant, which foretold his appearance.
Caves 3 to 7 were carved in the late 5th century. Caves 3 to 5 were not completed.
Cave 4 has twenty-eight pillars and nice sculptures. It is the largest vihara. There is a carving of people running from life’s eight dangers to take shelter of Avalokiteswara, one of the Buddha’s disciples. There is a painting of a man resisting a woman’s temptation.
Cave 6 has a seated Buddha and finely carved doors. There are good paintings on the doorway upstairs.
Hinayana Group
The Hinayana Group consists of Caves 6 to 10 and 12,13, and 15. These caves date from the 2nd century BC. Cave 8 is a small vihara and Cave 9 is a chaitya.
Cave 10 is the oldest cave (200 BC) and the largest chaitya. It has sculptures of the Buddha and a large stupa. On the walls of this cave are paintings depicting the Jatakas. One of the oldest paintings, on the rear wall, depicts the king and queen approaching the sacred bodhi tree. This was the first cave to be discovered.
Later Mahayana Period
At the entrance of Cave 16 is a kneeling elephant. In this cave, Buddha is seated on a lion throne. One of the most famous paintings in Ajanta, the “Dying Princess,” depicts Sundari being told that her husband, Nanda, the half-brother of the Buddha, had become a monk and renounced the material world. She fainted when she heard this news. Everyone around her shares her misery. Jataka stories about the former incarnations of the Buddha are painted on the walls. There is a great view of the river from this cave.
Cave 17 has some of the best murals of all the caves. It also contains more murals than any of the others. There is a painting of Buddha returning to his home to beg from his wife, his amazed son looking on. There is a famous painting of a princess putting on makeup. On the left wall a prince gives away his father’s magic elephant, his possessions, wife, and children, and renounces the world. On the upper right corner of the right wall the pearls of the princess have a 3–D effect when a flashlight is shined on them.
One painting shows the pastimes of Prince Simhala’s journey to Sri Lanka. He is shipwrecked along with his men on an island on which ogresses appear as beautiful women, but who eat their victims. The prince escapes on a flying horse, then later returns to the island to conquer it.
Cave 19 is a well-painted chaitya hall. There are two Buddhas on either side of the doorway. Outside, to the left of the cave, there is an interesting carving of a Naga king and his wife.
The later caves have a separate design. Of them, only Cave 26 is really interesting. Cave 26 is a large chaitya hall with a sculpture on one of the walls of a 9m (29 ft) reclining Buddha preparing to enter nirvana. There is also a scene where Mara tempts the Buddha with material pleasures. At the end Mara is depicted as sad because he was unsuccessful.
Where to Stay
MTDC Travellers’ Lodge (02438-4226), by the entrance to the caves, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 250/300 and dorm beds for Rs 60. Checkout time 9 am. It has a decent restaurant. It can be booked at the MTDC office in Aurangabad.
The MTDC Holiday Resort (02 438-4230), about 5km away, in the town of Fardapur, has decent rooms for Rs 300 and Rs 350/400 with hot water. It also has dorm beds for Rs 60 and a restaurant.
Travel
Most people stay in Aurangabad and come up to the caves on a day trip. The closest railway stations are in Jalgaon (58km north) and Aurangabad. From these two places you get a bus or taxi to the caves.
From Aurangabad to Ajanta (3 hr) there are four direct buses daily. Not all buses going to Jalgaon go to Ajanta from Aurangabad. They often stop in Fardapur (4km away on the main road). If you boarded a bus not going to Ajanta, ask to be dropped off at a place in Fardapur where you can catch local transportation to the caves. Shared taxis are available from Fardapur (Rs 20 to Ajanta and Rs 60 to Jalgaon).
From Jalgaon to Ajanta is 2 hours by bus. From Ajanta, the last bus to Aurangabad departs at 5.40 pm. The last bus to Jalgaon departs at 6.50 pm.
There are daily MTDC (Rs 125) or ITDC (Rs 110) conducted bus tours from Aurangabad. I took the MTDC tour and thought it was good. The bus was comfortable, and the tour guide spoke good English. The tour was economical but not painful or hurried. The total time spent at the caves on a conducted tour is about two hours and many people will consider this too rushed. The bus departs at 8 am and returns at 6 pm.
There is a cloakroom at the Ajanta Caves where visitors can leave baggage. So you can arrive in Jalgaon in the morning, go to the Ajanta Caves, and then go to Aurangabad in the evening.
A taxi from Aurangabad costs about Rs 1,200 roundtrip
Aurangabad (Sambhajinagar)
Pop: 880,000 Area
Phone Code: 0240
Postcode 431002
Aurangabad is a convenient city to use as a base when you visit the Ajanta and Ellora Caves. It has several interesting sites worth visiting. The city was originally named after Aurangzeb, but has recently been renamed Sambhajinagar, after the Hindu Maratha, Sambhaji (nagar means “city”).
The caves at Ellora and Ajanta are off the railway lines in the middle of nowhere. Most people visit them while based either in Aurangabad (Ellora is 30km northwest, and Ajanta is 106km north) or from Jalgaon (59km north of Ajanta). Jalgaon is on the main railway line from Mumbai to Allahabad. Aurangabad is off the main line. There are two direct trains from Mumbai daily.
Orientation
Aurangabad is spread out. The tourist offices, less expensive hotels, and railway station are in the southwest part of town. The bus stand is located 2km north of the railway station. It is a good distance to the older part of town in the center of the city.
Most of the higher-class hotels are located on the road going toward the airport in the east part of town, and in a few other places. Most of the middle-class hotels are located between the railway station and the old part of town.
Tourist Offices
The helpful Government of India Tourist Office (331-217), West Station Rd, is open from 8.30 am to 6 pm weekdays; 8.30 am to 12.30 pm on Saturdays.
The Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (331-513) is at the MTDC Holiday Resort Hotel on Station Road (open daily 8 am to 7.30 pm). MTDC also has tourist information counters at the railway station and the airport (open at flight times only).
Information
The GPO (poste restante counter 1) is at Juna Bazaar Chowk, in the north part of town. Outside the post office there is someone to sew packages.
The State Bank of India is at Kranti Chowk. A good place to change money is Trade Wings, opposite Hotel Printravel (daily 9 am to 7 pm). Bank of Baroda, near Paithan Gate on Pattan Darwaza Rd, gives advances on MasterCard and Visa (Mon to Fri 1 to 2.30 pm & Sat 11 am to 12.30 pm).
MIP Travels, Hotel Amarpreet, Jalna Rd, is an established travel agency. Classic Travel (337-788; fax 338-556), inside MTDC Holiday Resorts, Station Rd, does air, train and bus bookings.
Internet access at Hotel Printravel (Rs 100 per hour) and at Mass Communication at Osmanpura Circle on Station Rd East for Rs 120 per hour.
Tours
The MTDC, the ITDC, and the State Transport Company (MSRTC) arrange tours. You can be picked up at your hotel if it is conveniently located. The ITDC tour and State Transport tours are cheaper than the MTDC tour. I was satisfied with the MTDC tour to Ajanta. The tour guide spoke English well and answered all my questions. Some people would consider it rushed. This tour is a good value and is recommended.
I also took the MTDC tour to the Ellora Caves, which includes Daulatabad. None of the guides spoke English. At the Ellora Caves they rush you around like there was a fire. If you don’t mind being rushed around it is not such a bad value.
The State Transport Corporation tours start at the Central bus stand. You book the tour at Window 1 at the City bus stand. You get ITDC tour tickets at the Hotel Aurangabad Ashok (24143). The ITDC can arrange tours in Spanish, German, French, and Japanese.
The tour to Ellora Caves includes Daulatabad Fort, Grishneswar Temple, Aurangzeb’s tomb, Bibi-ka-Maqbara, and Panchakki, and is way too rushed.
Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (24713) tours start from the Holiday Resort Hotel, Station Road, but they can also pick you up at your hotel.
Ajanta Cave
8 am to 5 pm Rs 160
Ellora Caves
9 am to 5 pm Rs 120
India Tourism Development Corporation tours start at the Hotel Aurangabad Ashok (24143). Arrange the tour in advance at the tourist office on Station Rd or at Ashok Tours and Travel in the hotel lobby.
Ajanta Caves
8 am to 5 pm Rs 150
Ellora Caves
9 am to 5 pm Rs 110
MSRTC tours start at the Central bus stand.
Ajanta Caves
8 am to 5 pm Rs 120
Ellora Caves
8 am to 4 pm Rs 65
When to Visit
The best time to visit is October and November, and the second best time is from December to March. By April and May the weather is extremely hot, and this is one of the hottest areas in India.
Aurangabad Caves
These rock-cut caves, located 3km north of Aurangabad past Bibi-ka-Maqbara, are not as interesting as the caves at Ajanta and Ellora, but they are still worth visiting. The caves date back to the 4th to 8th centuries, except Cave 4, which dates back to the 1st century. The caves are mostly Buddhist, but there are some Hindu caves too. There are some good views from the caves. These caves are not visited by many people.
There are two groups of caves about 2km apart: Western (caves 1-5) and Eastern (caves 6-9). Cave 4 is a Hinayana chaitya hall (where congregational worship was done); the other caves are viharas (monasteries). It is possible to drive up to caves 6 and 7, which are the most interesting.
Cave 3 is a vihara, a residence hall for Buddhist monks. It has several beautiful carved pillars. In this cave there are the remains of paintings, depicting stories from the Jataka (pastimes of previous Buddhas).
Cave 6 has a large Buddha statue and a carving of Ganesh. There are also interesting sculptures of women. Cave 7 has interesting sculptures and is considered the best of the caves. One of the most interesting panels shows a classical dancer surrounded by six female musicians. There is a large Bodhisattva to the left of the entrance of
Cave 7.
The caves are about a twenty-minute auto-rickshaw ride north of town. You have to negotiate in advance the fare plus waiting time. The road leading to the caves is just behind the Bibi-ka-Maqbara and you can walk to the cave from there.
If you want to avoid any kind of crowd, come early in the morning. Bring a flashlight as there are no lights in the caves (parts of the caves are dark even in the middle of the day). There is a book about the caves called The Caves at Aurangabad by Carmel Berkson.
Bibi-ka-Maqbara
This white mausoleum was built by Aurangzeb for his wife, Begum Rabi’a Durani. This impressive Muslim monument has ornate jali screens and floral reliefs. It is known as the “poor-man’s Taj Mahal,” and in no way does it measure up to the Taj Mahal. The first 2m are covered with beautiful white marble and the rest is covered by plaster. It is floodlit at night.
This is a popular place and is open daily, dawn to dusk. Admission Rs 0.50.
Panchakki
Located here is an old mill, which was driven by water brought in earthern pipes from a river 6km away. It is a relatively peaceful place.
The tomb of Baba Shah Muzaffar, a Sufi saint, is also located here. The gardens and tanks here are dedicated to him. Open daily 8 am to 8 pm Admission Rs 1.
Where to Stay—Lower
Most of the inexpensive places are by the railway station. You can often get a discount between April and Sept.
The Retiring Rooms at the railway station cost Rs 75 per person.
The clean, well-managed Youth Hostel (233-4892), between the main section of town and the railway station, has a few clean double rooms for Rs 150 and dorm beds (separate dorms for men and women) for Rs 60. Check-in times between 7 and 11 am and 4 to 8 pm. Curfew 10 pm. Checkout time 9 am. Recommended.
Hotel Panchavati (232-8755), next to the Youth Hostel,Padampura Rd, has rooms with bath and hot water in the morning for Rs 175/300.
Hotel Natraj (324-260), West Station Rd, is one of the best cheap places, with rooms with common bath for Rs 110/135.
Touris't Home (233-7212), West Station Rd, is a clean, basic place with rooms with common bath for Rs 110 and rooms with bath for Rs 135. It is one of the better cheap places.
MTDC Holiday Resort (233-1513), close to the railway station,Station Rd, is a good value with good-sized rooms for Rs 650/800 and Rs 750/900 with A/C. Checkout time 8 am
Hotel Printravel (329707), Dr Ambedkar Rd, between the bus and railway stations, is a recommended place with fairly basic rooms for Rs 200/300 with bath and hot water. It is a big, quiet place. There is a good vegetarian restaurant in front of the hotel.
Hotel Ira, in the Samartha Nagar area near the bus stand, is a good place with rooms for Rs 300.
Shree Maya (333-093), West Station Rd, has well-maintained rooms with bath and TV for Rs 250/300 and Rs 600 with A/C.
Devpriya (339-032), near Siddarth Gardens, is a well-run family place with clean rooms for Rs 250/350. You can get a good massage here and they have a steam bath.
Where to Stay—Middle
Hotel Rajdhani (336-553), Station Rd, has clean rooms for Rs 325/400 and Rs 450/450 with A/C.
Hotel Nandavan (336-314), Station Rd, has large, decent rooms with hot water and TV for Rs 250/300 and Rs 450 with A/C. It has a vegetarian restaurant.
Hotel Ravi Raj (327-501), Dr Rajendra Prasad Marg, by Station Rd, has a good location. It has decent rooms, but they are not a very good value. Rooms go for Rs 450/600 and Rs 700/800 for an A/C rooms.
Great Punjab (336-482), Station Rd, near the train station, is a new business-type hotel with good-valued rooms with TV for Rs 300/350 and Rs 500/550 with A/C. This is the best middle-class hotel by the station.
Ashiyana (329-322), Bansilal Nagar, off Station Rd by the tourist office, is a new hotel with good-valued, clean, and quiet rooms with TV for Rs 225/300.
Where to Stay—Higher
Quality Inn Vedant (350-701; fax 350-700), East Station Rd, has central A/C and modern rooms for Rs 1795/2100. It has a pool (non-guest Rs 150) and breakfast is included in the price.
Aurangabad Ashok (332-492; fax 331-328) Dr Rajendra Prasad Marg, has A/C room for Rs 1400/2500. It has a pool and its own garden. It is not so well-maintained.
Ajanta Ambassador (485-211), Chikal Thana, near the airport, is a five-star hotel with rooms for $55/70 and suites that cost up to $85. It is a well-managed place with a good pool (non-guest Rs 150) and quiet gardens.
President Park (248-6201; fax 248-4823: Email: hpp@bom4.vsnl.net.in), near the airport has rooms for Rs 2000/2500. It has a good pool surrounded by a garden, a health club, and has a few restaurants. It is a good value.
Welcomgroup Rama International (485-441; fax 484-768), R-3 Chikal Thana, is a first-class, marble luxury place with rooms for $55/90 and suites for up to $150. It is well-located and has large gardens.
Taj Residency (238-1106; fax 238-1053: Email: residency.aurangabad@tajhotels.com), 8N-12, CIDCO, Ajanta Rd, has impressive gardens and is well-located. Very comfortable rooms are $55/70. Recommended.
The Meadows (677-412; fax 677-416) has modern cottages with their own gardens for Rs 2000/2500. It has a pool, health club, and a playground for children.
Where to Eat
Petang Restaurant, in front of the Printravel Hotel on West Station Rd, is a good vegetarian place. Open 11.30 am to 3 pm and 7 to 11 pm for full meals and thalis (Rs 40); snacks served throughout the day.
Radhika Restaurant, at the Hotel Nandanvan on Station Rd, has a reasonably priced, good vegetarian restaurant.
Bhoj, Dr Ambedkar Rd, is a very good, high-class South Indian vegetarian place.
Woodlands Restaurant (82822), on Jaina Road near the CIDCO bus stand and the Rama International Hotel, is most likely the best vegetarian place in town. Popular with the locals. It is about a twenty-minute auto-rickshaw ride from the train station. It has above average prices.
Food Lovers, Station Rd, has good Punjabi and Chinese food. The restaurant is set in a garden and is a pleasant place to eat.
Foodwala’s Bhoj, Station Rd (Dr Ambedkar Rd), is a good and popular vegetarian restaurant. It has good Gujarati thalis for lunch. Open 11 am to 3 pm and 7 to 11 pm.
Mingling, Rajdoot Hotel, Jalna Rd, serves good Chinese and Indian food. A main dish costs about Rs 75.
Quality Inn Vedant has a buffet breakfast (Rs 100) and lunch (Rs 150).
Chanakya, Dwarkapuri Rd, is a popular place with the elite locals.
Local Transport
To go by taxi to the Ellora Caves via Daulatabad Fort costs about Rs 500. This includes waiting time. Local taxis are Rs 250 for four hours (40km) and Rs 350 for eight hours (80km).
Regular buses from the Central bus stand go to Daulatabad, Ellora (every half-hour), Ajanta (3 hr, four direct buses daily), and Jalgaon (4½ hr). Not all buses going to Jalgaon go to Ajanta from Aurangabad. They often stop in Fardapur (4km away on the main road).
There are two stalls by the bus stand that rent out good bicycles.
WARNING Beware of the touts at the station offering all-inclusive package tours to Ellora and Ajanta. It is much cheaper and just as easy to arrange the tours yourself.
Travel
Aurangabad is off the main Delhi-Mumbai railway line, but there are some direct trains to Mumbai and Hyderabad. Ajanta and Ellora caves are not on any train lines, so if you wish to get to these places by train, you must go either to Aurangabad or to Jalgaon (on the main Delhi-Mumbai line), and from there, take a bus or car.
Air The airport is about 10km from the center of town. There are flights to Mumbai (2 daily, $75), Delhi (daily, $150), Jaipur (daily, $125), and Udaipur (daily, $110). The Indian Airlines office (485-421; Airport: 485-012) is on Airport Rd (Jalna Rd). It is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm. The flights are usually overbooked far in advance, so it is best to book your flight at least a week in advance if not earlier. To fly to Udaipur takes thirty minutes; by train or bus expect to travel for twenty-four hours. Jet Airways (425-877).
Train There are two direct trains daily to Mumbai, both of which are usually heavily booked. The Tapovan Exp #7618 departs 2.45 pm and arrives in Mumbai at 10.50 pm (a bad time to try to find a hotel). At 9.35 pm the Devagiri Exp #1004 departs to Mumbai (10½ hr, arrive 5.40 am). From Mumbai the Devagiri Exp #1003 (9.20 pm, 10 hr) is a direct train to Aurangabad. From Mumbai you can also take a train to Manmad, and from there another train for the uncomfortable 110km ride to Aurangabad. This trip takes about eight hours.
You can also take a train to Jalgaon and a bus to either Ajanta or Aurangabad. If you are coming from Mumbai and then heading north, you can see the Ellora caves first, then go to Ajanta, and then catch a train from Jalgaon. Trains from Jalgaon go to Delhi, Agra, Udaipur, Calcutta, Chennai, and Varanasi.
To get to Delhi you can take a train to Manmad (2½ hr, 110km), and from there another train to Delhi. You should be able to book the train departing from Manmad to Delhi in Aurangabad.
To get to Hyderabad, there is the daily Devgiri Exp (4.45 am, 14 hr) or the Manmad Kacheguda Exp #7663 (7.20 pm, 14 hr), which goes to nearby Secunderabad. You can also travel to Hyderabad overnight by taking a 5.30 pm train to Pune and from there, another train to Hyderabad (10.30 pm). This can all be booked on the same ticket. The train from Pune does not depart until the train from Aurangabad arrives.
Bus From the Bus station (331-217) on Dr Ambedkar Rd, 2km north of the railway station, there are buses to Jalgaon (10 daily), Ellora, Daulatabad, and Ajanta. There are long-distance buses to Pune (seven daily, 6 hr), Indore (12 hr), Nasik (five daily, 5 hr), and Mumbai.
MTDC operates a daily luxury bus from Mumbai (8.30 pm, 10 hr). The MTDC (202-6713) office in Mumbai is opposite the LIC Bldg, Madame Cama Road. Tickets can be booked at the MTDC Holiday Resort for the deluxe night bus from Aurangabad to Mumbai. There is a four-day tour out of Mumbai run by MTDC. The ticket price includes accommodations at the Aurangabad Ashok.
TPH Tours and Travels at the Hotel Rajdhani, Station Rd, books luxury buses to Mumbai.
To get to Udaipur from here, either take a bus to Indore (12 hr) and another bus from there (another 12 hr), or take a bus to Ahmedabad and from there, another bus to Udaipur.
From Mumbai you could hire a car and driver. The trip will take four days, two days actually seeing the caves.
Ellora
There are thirty-four elaborately carved caves at Ellora, 30km northwest of Aurangabad. The twelve southern caves are Buddhist, the seventeen caves in the center are Hindu, and the five northern caves are Jain. They were built in that order (Buddhist, Hindu, Jain) between the 7th and 13th centuries AD. They extend for about 2km.
The carvings and sculptures are impressive.
The main site is cave 16, the Kailash Temple, which is one of the most magnificent structures in the world. The Kailash Temple is not really a cave but a temple carved out of the rocks in the side of a hill. It is open from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm and is best viewed in the late afternoon.
The caves are numbered consecutively from south to north, but they were not built in that order. It is believed that carving on the Hindu caves began before the Buddhist caves were finished. Caves 1, 5, 10, and 12 are good examples of Buddhist caves. Cave 16, the Kailash Temple, is the best example of cave architecture in India. Cave 32 is a good example of Jain sculptural art. These few caves give a good overview of all the other caves.
The caves were dug out of a slope in the hill in a north–south direction. They face west, so they receive light from the setting sun. All the caves were carved from the top to the bottom, so workers did not require scaffolding.
For some unknown reason, Ajanta was abandoned around the 7th century and the people making the caves moved to Ellora, 100km south.
The caves are open from sunrise to sunset. It takes at least three hours to see the caves. You can hire a guide through the Tourist Office in Aurangabad or at the site.
NOTE The caves may be closed on Mondays.
Buddhists Caves
Caves 1 to 12 are Buddhist caves. Only cave 10 is a chaitya (temple). All the other Buddhists caves are viharas (monasteries). These caves are not as architecturally interesting as the Hindu caves.
Cave 2 has well-carved pillars and figures of the Buddha. In the middle of the back wall is a 3m (10 ft) tall seated Buddha on a lion throne. There are two large, standing dwarapalas (door guards). Padmapani, holding a lotus on the left, and Maitreya, the future Buddha, stands on the right. On the side walls are carvings of seated Buddhas.
Cave 3 is similar, with a Buddha sitting on a lotus at the end of the cave.
Cave 5 is the biggest Buddhist cave (35m by 17m) and seems to have been an assembly or dining hall. On the first pillar to the left there are impressive carvings. Buddha is seated at the back of the cave on a chair. This cave has a 35m long assembly hall.
Cave 6 has a large seated Buddha. There are two famous statues in this cave, the Buddhist goddess of learning, Mahamayuri, with a peacock and surrounded by Buddhist figures, and one of Tara (the consort of the Avalokitisvara).
Cave 10 is called Viswakarma or the “Carpenter Cave.” This cave is named after Viswakarma, the architect of the demigods. It is the only chaitya (chapel) cave in Ellora. There is a beautiful 4.5m image of the Buddha in the cave. Light comes into the cave through a horseshoe window. This cave has a second storey, reached by a flight of stairs inside the cave.
Cave 11 (8th century) is 3-storeys. At first this cave was believed to have just two-storeys, but the third storey was later discovered. The third storey is interesting. On the rear wall arxe "Bassein" e sculptures of Ganesh and Durga.
The three-storey Cave 12 (8th century) is a monastery with a large seated Buddha surrounded by a row of seven Buddhas (said to represent the Buddha in previous incarnations), and an open courtyard in front.
Hindu Caves 14 and 15
Cave 14 (7th century), Rava Kakhai, contains sculptures of Varaha (half-boar), Lakshmi, and Siva. At the entrance of the sanctum are sculptures of the river goddesses Yamuna and Ganga. Nearby are carvings of the Sapta Matrikas, with babies on their legs.
The walls of this cave have excellent sculptures. On the left side from front to back is: Durga killing the buffalo demon; Lakshmi, the Goddess of Fortune; Varaha, Vishnu in the form of a half-boar; and Vishnu with his two consorts.
On the right wall there are carvings of Siva and his pastimes. There is a carving of Siva playing chess with his wife Parvati, one of Siva dancing the Tandava (Nataraja), and another of Siva peacefully ignoring Ravana’s attempt to shake Mount Kailash.
Cave 15 (mid-8th century) is called the Dasa Avataras (Ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu) Cave. It is one of the more impressive caves. There is a Nandi bull and many sculptures of Lord Siva. On the upper floor are some of the most outstanding carvings in Ellora, including Lord Narasimha (Lord Vishnu as half-lion) and Lord Vishnu rescuing Gajendra, the elephant.
Kailash Temple Cave 16
The Kailash Temple is a Siva temple with a large linga in the shrine. It is the largest and most magnificent rock-cut temple in the world and is considered one of the wonders of India. 3 million cubic feet of rock was chiseled away to complete the temple buildings, life-size elephants, and sculptures. It is estimated that to carve the Kailash Temple, 200,000 tons of rock had to be removed by thousands of workers for over 150 years.
Archaeologists estimate it took thousands of skilled stone cutters seven to eight generations to construct this temple. It is comparable to the Pyramids. It is twice the size of the Parthenon of Athens and 1½ times as high. It is 81m long, 47m wide, and 33m high. It was carved out of the side of a hill from the top down.
There are carvings telling the pastimes of the Ramayana and Mahabharata on the temple walls. On the south side of the mandapa (hall) is a remarkable sculpture depicting Siva crushing Ravana underfoot when Ravana desired to lift Siva’s Kailash Mountain and shake it. Other impressive carvings are the Ravana-ki-Khai, or Abode of Ravana, and the Dasa Avatara, or ten incarnations of Vishnu.
Other Hindu Caves
The rest of the Hindu caves are not nearly as interesting as the Kailash Temple cave.
Cave 21, the Rameswara Cave (late 6th century), has a carving of Siva dancing and Durga killing the buffalo demon. It has an inner sanctum and is one of the more interesting caves. It has a courtyard with a Siva-linga and a Nandi bull in the middle. There is an interesting sculpture of the goddesses Yamuna and Ganga (standing on a crocodile).
The large Cave 29 is also worth seeing. It has carvings of Lord Siva’s pastimes as the destroyer.
Jain Caves
Caves 30–34 are Jain caves. They are located 1km north of the last Hindu temple (cave 29). The Jain caves are not as dynamic as the Hindu caves. If it is hot, you may want to take a rickshaw to these caves.
Cave 31, the Chota Kailash (Little Kailash) was never finished.
Cave 32, the Assembly Hall of Indra, is the most impressive of the Jain temples. It is dedicated to Mahavir, the 24th tirthankara. The ground floor is plain, but the upstairs has intricate carvings.
Cave 33 and Cave 34 are also interesting.
Ghrisneswara Temple
Nearby is the important 18th century Ghrisneswara Siva Temple, in the village of Verul, about 1km from the Ellora caves. This temple contains one of the twelve Siva Jyotirlingas.
Where to Stay and Eat
Hotel Kailash (02347 41043), 200m from the Kailash Temple, has rooms with baths for Rs 450/550 and Rs 950/1050 with A/C and a view of the caves. There are also more basic rooms for Rs 150. There is a restaurant here (7 am to 9.30 pm).
Hotel Natraj (02437-41043) has rooms for Rs 150/200 and dorm beds for Rs 75.
Foodwala’s Ellora Restaurant, near the caves, is open 8 am to 6 pm.
Many hotels and restaurants in Aurangabad will make packed lunches.
Travel
There is an airport and railway station 29km away at Aurangabad. From Aurangabad there are daily MTDC or ITDC bus tours (definitely rushed). There are local buses leaving every half-hour from Aurangabad for the Caves (6 am to 6 pm; Rs 10). From Aurangabad a taxi costs Rs 500 roundtrip to go to both Daulatabad Fort and the Ellora caves.
Mumbai (Bombay)
Pop: 12.5 million Area Code: 022
Mumbai is India’s largest city and the capital of the state of Maharashtra. “Mumba” or “Mumbai” is a name for Parvati, the wife of Lord Siva. The name Bombay is a Portuguese corruption of Mumbai.
Mumbai is the most important business center in India, owning a high percentage of India’s wealth. Over one-third of the income tax paid in India comes from Mumbai, and half the foreign trade is carried out from here. Land prices here compare to Tokyo or New York. Mumbai is the Hollywood of India. More films are produced here than almost anywhere else in the world.
Most people coming to Mumbai stay only for a short while to do some business or to just travel through.
Mumbai is one of my favorite cities in India. It is a fast-paced, fairly hip, safe city, where people usually treat you good. There are not many con-men on the streets, and even the taxi drivers tend to use their meters without being asked. Many people will find the accommodations high-priced and may feel Mumbai too hectic and will want to leave as soon as they get here.
The best time to visit Mumbai is from December to the middle of February, during which time the weather is perfect. The rains during the rainy season are heavier than in most places in India.
History
Mumbai consists of seven islands connected by reclamation from the sea. When the Portuguese took these islands in the early 16th century, they were nothing but a collection of small villages. These islands were gifted to Charles II of England as part of his dowry, after he married Catherine of Braganza in 1661.
When the British took over, Bombay was a small town. The British government leased the islands to the East India Company for £10 in 1668. Gerald Aungier, Bombay’s East India Company governor, began construction in 1672, and the area became the capital of the Bombay Presidency in 1687. The British then built it up into an important port city. Merchants from around India were attracted to Bombay because the British were granting land and promising religious freedom. The Parsis built their first fire temple here in 1675.
The fort in Mumbai was built in the 1720s. Over the next 100 years, the seven original islands were joined together by land reclamation. In 1881, the British defeated the Marathas, connecting Mumbai with the rest of India. The first railway in Asia was built in 1853 and connected Mumbai with the town of Thana. The walls of the fort were dismantled in 1864.
Many cotton mills were built here, and when there was a shortage of cotton in Britain during the American Civil War, Mumbai became the main supplier. The Indian National Congress held its first meeting here in 1885. In 1942 in Mumbai, they expressed their demand for independence.
After Independence Mumbai became the capital of the Bombay Presidency, which included Maharashtra and much of the present-day Gujarat. In 1960 the Bombay Presidency was divided into two states, Maharashtra and Gujarat.
The Shiv Sena government renamed the city Mumbai in 1996.
Orientation
The city is a long, thin island which runs north to south. The downtown is located in the south, at the thinnest point of the island. The old part of the city is near the Taj Mahal Hotel and the Gateway of India. The less expensive hotels are in this area, up to Victoria Terminus. This area is called Colaba, and many tourists never leave this area of Mumbai because of the facilities both for tourist services and business.
The area called the Fort is just north of Colaba. This is the site upon which the original British fort was located and where many of the interesting, old British buildings are situated. Also located here are Victoria Terminus (VT) Station, banks, the GPO, and other business-oriented offices. To the west of this area is the Maidan, a grassy park. Churchgate Station, one of Mumbai’s main train stations, is further west.
The southwestern part of the island is called Nariman Point. Running north along the bay from Nariman Point past Chowpatty Beach is Marine Drive, which runs into the high-class residential area, Malabar Hill.
Located north of South Mumbai are a group of crowded bazaars. The streets in this area tend to be narrow and crowded. Located north of this area are Mumbai’s residential suburbs and the International and Domestic airports.
Juhu Beach is in the North Mumbai, 20km from downtown. It takes forty minutes by train to go from downtown to Juhu.
Some time ago, the city changed many of the street names. Some name changes were not popularly accepted, so people may know them by their old names and not by the new ones.
A very detailed map of Mumbai is Mumbai A to Z.
Tourist Offices
The Government of India Tourist Office (2220-7433; fax 2220-4496) is located across from Churchgate Station at 123 Maharishi Karve Rd. It is next to the office where tourist quota tickets for the train are sold. The tourist office is efficient and helpful. Open Mon to Fri 8.30 am to 6 pm, Saturday 8.30 am to 1.30 pm There is a 24-hour tourist counter at the international (Sahar) airport (832-5331), and a tourist counter at the domestic airport (614-9200).
The Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation Office (MTDCO) (2202-6713; fax 285-2182), CDO Hutments, Madame Cama Rd, conducts tours of Mumbai and operates long-distance bus services to places such as Aurangabad. They also operate a hotel chain all over Maharashtra, and you can make bookings at this office. They have counters at the Gateway of India, VT Railway Station, and the international and domestic airports.
Island is a monthly magazine listing events in Mumbai.
State Tourist Offices
Delhi Tourism
c/o MTDC, CDO Hutments, Madam Cama Rd, Nariman Point (285-5736)
Goa
Mumbai Central Station (308-6288)
Gujarat
Dhanraj Mahal, PJ Ramchandani Marg (202-4925)
Himachal Pradesh
World Trade Centre, Cuffe Parade (218-1123)
Jammu and Kashmir
World Trade Centre, Cuffe Parade (218-7603)
Himachal Pradesh
World Trade Centre, Cuffe Parade (218-1123)
Kerala
c/o Kairali, Nirmal Building, Nariman Point (202-6817)
Madhya Pradesh
World Trade Centre (218-7603)
Rajasthan
230 Dr D Naoroji Rd. (207-4162)
Tamil Nadu
c/o Peerless Hotels and Travel Ltd, Churchgate Chambers, New Marines Lines (262-4811)
Uttar Pradesh
World Trade Centre, Cuffe Parade (218-5458)
Tours
The MTDC City Tour (9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 6 pm) goes to the Gateway of India, the Aquarium, the Prince of Wales Museum, Hanging Gardens, Kamla Nehru Park, and the Gandhi Museum for Rs 70. The tour departs daily except Monday from the MTDC Office on Madame Cama Rd. (Opp LIC Office) at Nariman Point. It picks up passengers near the Gateway of India. You can purchase tickets at the MTDC counter next to the Gateway of India.
The MTDC Suburban Tour goes to Juhu Beach, the Kanheri Caves, the National Park, and the Lion Safari Park from 9.15 am to 6 pm for Rs 150.
Guides speaking several languages can be hired at the Government of India Tourist Office.
There is a four-day tour to Aurangabad, departing daily, run by ITDC that includes staying at the three-star Aurangabad Ashoka Hotel. The tour costs Rs 1600. ITDC also runs an overnight bus to Aurangabad (12 hr ) for Rs 150.
MTDC runs a one-day overnight tour to Nasik for Rs 350. They also have a luxury bus departing 6.30 am to Nasik (6 hr) for Rs 92.
Money
You can change money quickly at the American Express Travel Service Office (2204 8291), at the intersection of Colaba Causeway and Shivaji Marg, near Regal Cinema. They give cash against American Express credit cards. Open Mon to Sat 9.30 am to 6.30 pm. You can change only American Express travelers cheques at the American Express Bank (204-8278), Oriental Building, 364 Dr D Naoroji Rd. (Mon to Fri 10.30 am to 2.30 pm, Sat 10.30 am to 12.30 pm).
Equally efficient is Thomas Cook (2204-8556) on Dr D Naoroji Rd, between Flora Fountain and the Khadi Bhavan (Mon to Sat 9.30 am to 6 pm).
The major banks downtown all change foreign currency. Bank of America, Express Towers, Nariman Point, accepts MasterCard; the Andhra Bank, 18 Homi Mody St (near Flora Fountain), accepts Visa. Citibank, 293 D Naoroji Rd, gives cash advances on both MasterCard and Visa. They also have an ATM machine.
Hong Kong Bank, MG Rd, Flora Fountain, has an ATM machine and gives cash advances against MasterCard and Visa cards. Standard Chartered, 81 Ismail Building, Dr DN Rd, also has an ATM machine. There is an ATM machine at the HSBC Bank.
At Sahar airport you can change money at the State Bank of India’s 24-hour counter, where the rates are standard. You can also change money quickly at the Air India Building at Nariman Point (open all night).
Be careful of changing money on the streets. Mumbai is known for cheaters in this regard. A man will tell you that you have to go somewhere private to change the money, and when you agree and accompany the man to a private place, two other men appear. You may be handed a wad of bills stapled together, and just when you hand over the foreign money, you are told suddenly that the police are coming. Everyone disappears. When you count your money, you will often find the wad of bills you were handed contains only a few real bills on the top and the bottom of the pile, and that the rest is paper.
Foreign Consulates
Australia
Makers Tower, E Block, Cuffe Parade (218-1071)
Belgium
Morena, 11 M L Dahanukar Marg, Cumballa Hill
(493-9261)
Canada
41/42 Maker Chambers VI, Nariman Point
(287-6028)
Denmark
L & T House, N Morarjee Marg,
Ballard Estate (261-8181)
France
Data Prasad Bldg, N G Gross Rd,
Cumballa Hill (495-0918)
Germany
Hoechst House (10th Floor), V K Shah Rd, Nariman Point (283-2422)
Indonesia
19 Altamount Rd (386-8678)
Ireland
2nd floor, Royal Mumbai Yacht Club,
Shivaji Marg, Colaba (202-4607)
Israel
Kailash, Poddar Rd (386-2794)
Italy
Kanchanjunga, 72 G Deshmukh Rd,
Cumballa Hill (387-2341)
Japan
1 Dahanukar Marg, Cumballa Hill (493-3857)
Malaysia
Rahimtoola House, Homji St (286-0056)
Mauritius
Dhanraj Mahal (3rd floor), Apollo Bunder
(202-7244)
Netherlands
International Building, Marine Lines Cross Rd,
Churchgate (201-6750; fax 206-9436)
Philippines
116 Free Press House, Nariman Point
(202-4792)
Singapore
94 Sakhar Bhavan, Nariman Point (204-3209)
Spain
Ador House, 6 K Dubash Marg, Fort (287-4797)
Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka House, 34 Homi Mody St, Fort
(204-5861)
Switzerland
Maker Chambers IV, J Bajaj Marg, Nariman
Point (288-4563)
Thailand
Krishna Bagh, 43 Bhulabhai Desai,
Cumballa Hill Rd (363-1404)
UK
Maker Chambers IV, 2nd Floor, J Bajaj Marg,
Nariman Point (283-3602)
USA
Lincoln House, 78 B Desai, Cumballa Hill Rd
(363-3611)
Travel Agencies
You can usually purchase international tickets for less in New Delhi or Calcutta than in Mumbai. Discount tickets are available from Travel Corner Ltd (204-8565), down a side street near Hotel Delamar on Veer Nariman Rd (Marine Drive).
For discounted tickets, Transway International (262-6066; fax 262-4465), Pantaky House, 8 Maruti Cross Lane (off Maruti St), Fort, is recommended.
Space Travels, Nanabhoy Mansion, Sir P. Mehta Rd, is a good discount travel agency.
Good travel agencies are Mercury Travel (202-3663), 70 VB Gandhi Marg and the Oberoi Hotel; Sita World Travel (223-3155), 8 Atlanta Building, Nariman Point; American Express (204-6349), Majithia Chamber, D Naoroji Rd; Thomas Cook (204-6349), Cooks Building, D Naoroji Rd.
Post, Phone and Internet
The GPO is off Nagar Chowk, near Victoria Terminus (VT). The parcel post office, open from 10 am to 4.30 pm, is in the back of the building on the 1st floor. There are people outside the post office to pack and seal your packages.
There is a reliable poste restante service open Mon to Sat 9 am to 6 pm. They usually throw away unclaimed letters after four weeks. You have to show your passport to get your mail.
Videsh Sanchar Bhavan, the government telecom building on MG Marg, has low prices for phone calls and faxes. You can also make collect calls from there and receive incoming calls for Rs 5.
Courier services: DHL Couriers Services (850-5050); Airfreight House, Lok Bharati Complex, Marol Maroshi Rd, Anderi; Skypak Worldwide Couriers (850-8181), Skypak House, Marol, Andheri; and Overnite Express (372-9915), 57/59 Poona St.
Internet: Asiatic Shopping Center (283-4526), Veer Nariman Rd, opposite Churchgate Station (Rs 100 per hour).
Internet Cyber Cafe (267-1331; fax 267-1756; email mahendra@indiayellowpages.com), 74 Nagindas Master Rd, Fort, near the Hong Kong Bank (Rs 100 per hour).
Net Express Cybercafe (284-6278), Express Towers, Nariman Point, near the Air India Building, has internet facilities for Rs 150 per hour.
Visa Extension
The Foreigners’ Registration Office (262-0446), Annexe 2, Office of the Commissioner of Police, Dr D Naoroji Rd, near Crawford Market, is where visas are extended. I have been told that you are much more likely to receive an extension here than in Delhi.
Bookshops
The Bookpoint in the Ballard Estate and Nalanda Bookshop in the Taj Hotel are both very good shops. The Strand Book Stall, 15 Dhannur, off Sir PM Road, Fort area, north of Flora Fountain, has a good selection of books selling at twenty percent discounts.
Crossword (2492-0253), 1st floor, 22 Bhulabhai Desai Rd, Breach Candy has a great selection of books.
There is a decent bookstand outside the Cafe Mondegar on Colaba Causeway.
Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan, Kulapati, KM Munshi Marg by Chowpatty Beach, has a good selection of spiritual books.
Cultural Center and Libraries
British Council (2282-3530; Web site: http://www.bclindia.org), A Wind, Mittal Towers, Nariman Point, has recent British newspapers (Tues to Sat 10 am to 5 pm). It is not possible to enter the British Council Library just for the day for free. To enter you have to pay Rs 250 for a monthly membership.
American Center Library (2262-4590), 4 New Marine Lines, Churchgate, has a Rs 10 fee for nonmembers (Mon and Tues, and Thurs to Sat 10 am to 5 pm).
Alliance Française (2203-6187), Theosophy Hall, 40 New Marine Line, Churchgate, has French newspapers, books, and films.
Max Mueller Bhavan (2202-7542), Prince of Wales Annex, next to the Prince of Wales Museum, K Dubash Marg, Fort, has German newspapers and books (Mon 3 to 6 pm and Tues to Sat 11 am to 5 pm).
Hospitals
Breach Candy Hospital (363-3651), 60 Bhulabhai Desai Rd, Cumballa Hill, is recommended by the foreign embassies.
Mumbai Hospital (286-3343), V Thackersey Marg, is a good private hospital in the downtown area.
P D Hinduja National Hospital (444-0428), Mahim, is one of the most modern and best hospitals in all of India.
Crawford Market
Crawford Market is a busy, crowded fruit and vegetable market. Located in the market are bas reliefs done by Rudyard Kipling’s father and a fancy fountain that he designed.
The house where Rudyard Kipling was born in 1865 is now the JJ School of Art. It is located south of the market on Dr D Naoroji Rd.
Shopping
On the street in the Flora Fountain area between Churchgate Station and Victoria Station you can find many of the foreign items you may need.
A good selection of Indian clothing is available from Khadi Village Industries Emporium.
There are high-class clothing shops on August
Kranti Marg at Kemp’s corner.
North of the Fort area there are bazaars selling just about anything. Many bazaars are dedicated to certain items. Jhaveri (Zaveri) Bazaar, by the intersection of Kalbadevi and Sheikh Memon St, contains hundreds of shops selling gold, silver, and jewelry. At Chor Bazaar (“Thieves Market”) you can buy almost anything, often at such reduced prices you would think you were buying stolen goods. Many of the antique shops are on Mutton St in Chor Bazaar. Many items offered for sale as antiques are “aged” artificially, but still look good. Bargain accordingly. Mangaldas Market sells clothing.
Central Cottage Industries Emporium in Colaba has a good selection of handicrafts and gift items.
There are several state government emporiums in the World Trade Centre Arcade, Cuffee Parade and on Sir P Mehta Rd, Fort area. The Mumbai Store, Sir P Mehta Rd, Fort area, is a good department store with high quality items.
Shippers
Perfect Cargo Movers (287-3935), 56 Abdullabhai Currimjee Building, 4th Fl., Janmabhoomi Marg, Fort area by the Reserve Bank of India, a few blocks north of Flora Fountain, are reliable shippers. Their place is difficult to find, so you may want to call ahead for directions.
Photography
The Javeri Colour Lab, opposite Regal Cinema in Colaba, sells print and slide film.
Swimming
You can use the swimming pool at the Fariyas Hotel for Rs 200; and the facilities at Breach Candy Club, Bhulabhai Desai Rd, which has a large pool in the shape of the Indian subcontinent; Rs 200 on weekdays; Rs 300 on weekends. It has a good restaurant.
Colaba and Taj Mahal Hotel
The area near the Taj Mahal Hotel is a main tourist area for travelers because most foreigners choose to stay in the hotels in this area. Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg) is the main road passing through the Colaba area.
The Taj Mahal Hotel overlooks Apollo Bunder and the sea. JN Tata built it in 1903. JN Tata, a Parsi, is said to have been refused a room in one of the European hotels because he was Indian. It is said that he built this hotel to outdo the one in which he was refused a room.
The Church of St John the Evangelist (also known as the Afghan Church), near the south end of Colaba Causeway, was built in 1847. It is dedicated to the soldiers who died in the war in Sind and the First Afghan War of 1843. It has stained glass windows and plaques dedicated to the soldiers.
Gateway of India
This is a large arch, built to commemorate King George V’s visit to India in 1911. It is located right next to the sea in Apollo Bunder. It was built in 16th century Muslim-Gujarati style. The last British regiment marched under this arch in 1947 when the British officially left India. It is a popular place for locals to spend time in the evenings.
There is a statue of the great Maratha general Shivaji on a horse, and one of Swami Vivekananda, nearby.
Prince of Wales Museum
This is one of the more interesting museums in India. It was built to honor the visit of King George V to India when he was the Prince of Wales in 1905, but it was not opened until 1923. It is built in the Indo-Saracenic style and it has a large central hall with a massive dome.
The museum contains some interesting paintings, excellent sculptures, and historical exhibits from Elephanta Island. There are stone tools from Harappa and Mohenjo Daro dating from 2500-1700 BC, a good collection of 16th-18th century metal deities, and an excellent collection of miniatures from Mughal, Rajasthani, and the South Indian schools.
In the excellent weapon collection are the swords of the emperors Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb and the shield and armor of Akbar. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 6 pm. Admission: Rs 150; camera Rs 20. Bags must be left at the cloakroom near the entrance.
National Gallery of Modern Art & Jehangir Art Gallery
Jehangir Art Gallery, on the same block as the Prince of Wales Museum, contains modern paintings and special traveling exhibits. Open daily 11 am to 7 pm. Admission free. From the roof you can get a good view of the city.
The National Gallery contains impressive exhibits of modern Indian art. Open daily 10 am to 5 pm. Located in the Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall.
High Court & Mumbai University
Along Oval Maidan, the park running south from Churchgate Station, there are old, impressive buildings built by the British in the 1860s and ’70s. There is the 80m high Rajabai Clock Tower over the library, which once played God Save the Queen and Home Sweet Home to mark the hour. The University Library and Convocation Hall are equally impressive. The inside of the library is interesting. You are usually only allowed in if you say you are coming to use the library and not just to look around. Gilbert Scott, who designed St Pancras Station in London, designed Mumbai University.
The High Court is an impressive building built by Colonel JA Fuller in the early English style. There are statues of Justice and Mercy on top of the building.
Flora Fountain & Horniman Circle
Flora Fountain is named after the Roman goddess of abundance. It was built in 1869 to honor Sir Bartle Frere, then Governor of Bombay, who dismantled the walls of the old fort. There is a monument here to honor the people who died to form the state of Maharashtra. The new name of the area is Hutatma Chowk, or Martyr’s Square.
Horniman Circle has a group of impressive old British buildings around it. There is a peaceful park in the center that still contains the old banyan tree where stock would be traded in the early days of the Mumbai Stock Exchange. To the east is Town Hall, containing the Asiatic Library and the State Central Library. Behind the Town Hall are what remains of the original Bombay Castle and the Mint.
St Thomas’ Cathedral, Tamarind St, was started in 1672 and finished in 1718. Inside the church are old British memorials (daily 7 am to 6 pm).
Victoria Terminus (VT)
This beautiful railway station is an impressive Gothic building which looks more like an important government building or a church. It was designed by William Stevens and was completed in 1887. On top of the building is a 4m tall statue of “Progress.” The building has stained glass windows, domes, spires, and carvings of lions, peacocks, and elephants. It has been renamed Chhatrapati Shiviji Terminus.
Marine Drive & Chowpatty Beach
Marine Drive (renamed Netaji S Bose Rd) runs along the Arabian Sea starting at Nariman Point, past Chowpatty Beach, to Malabar Hill. It is a popular place for people to stroll in the early evenings. Many people come here to watch the sunset.
Chowpatty Beach is an interesting place in the evening with its food vendors, horse rides, and fairground atmosphere. It is not a place to swim or sun bathe.
The Taraporewala Aquarium is near Chowpatty Beach on Marine Drive (daily except Mon 10 am to 7 pm).
Malabar Hill
Malabar Hill is the home of Mumbai’s well-to-do.
The Jain Temple (1904), dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain tirthankara, is on the main road to Malabar Hill.
The Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens (Hanging Gardens) were set out in 1880 and redone in 1921. The best time to visit is in the early evening as the sun is setting and you can have a pleasant walk. It is on top of Malabar Hill. From the nearby Kamala Nehru Park, there are good views of the city.
The seven large Parsi Towers of Silence are next to the gardens, but they are off limits to visitors. The Parsis believe that a dead body should not be placed into the earth or cremated. When someone dies, their body is placed on the Towers of Silence and vultures strip the flesh from the body. The sun and wind then purify the bones. The actual towers are screened from view by trees and can not be seen by anyone.
The Walkeshwara (Sand Lord) Temple is at the end of the peninsula. Lord Rama, on his way to rescue Sita from Ravana, is said to have stopped here. It is said that every night Laksman would provide his brother with a Siva-linga from Varanasi to worship. On this night, he did not arrive on time, so Rama made a linga from sand (waluk). The current temple was built in 1715, but there has been a temple at this site for thousands of years. At one time the temple was busy, but now it is almost deserted. There is the large, sacred Banganga bathing tank next to the temple, that is said to have been created by an arrow from Rama’s bow shot into the ground. This temple is by the Raj Bhavan.
Raj Bhavan is the home of the Maharashtra Governor and was once the main seat of the British government.
Mani Bhavan
This is the place where Mahatma Gandhi stayed when he visited Mumbai between 1917 and 1934. It is now a museum dedicated to Gandhi. The room where he stayed has been left almost untouched. There is a picture exhibit on Gandhi’s life and a library containing books by and about him.
Open daily 9.30 am to 6 pm. Located at 19 Laburnum Rd, near Gamdevi Police Station.
Nearby is August Kranti Maidan, where the campaign for the British to “Quit India” was begun.
Mahalakshmi Mandir
This temple is located in an alley off Bhulabhai Desai Rd, north of Malabar Hill, by the seashore. There has been a temple here for a thousand years, but the present temple was built during the 18th century. At that time, when this area of the city was still a swamp, the land was drained and a breach-wall constructed.
It is said that Lakshmi appeared in a dream to the contractor and told him that unless he built a temple and installed the Deity of her that would appear from the sea, the breach-wall would not hold. The next day, workmen found a Lakshmi Deity and she was installed in this temple.
On weekends the line to see the Deity can be quite long.
Shrine of Haji Ali
This shrine (early 18th century) dedicated to the Sufi Saint Haji Ali is located on an island in the middle of the Arabian Sea. The walkway to this place is under water during high tide and during monsoon storms. Non-Muslims are permitted. This place is close to the Mahalakshmi Temple.
Nehru Centre
The Nehru Science Museum (496-4676), Lala Lajpat Rai Rd, contains exhibits on India’s contribution to science such as mathematics, Ayurvedic medicine, and the genetics findings of HG Khorana. Open daily 11 am to 5 pm.
The Nehru Planetarium (492-0510), Dr AB Rd, near the Shrine of Haji Ali, has English shows (1 hr) at 3 and 6 pm. Open daily except Mon 11 am to 1.45 pm and 2.30 to 6 pm.
The park you pass on the way to the museum has animal rides and train cars.
Victoria and Albert Museum (Veermata Jijabhai Bhosle Udyan Gardens) and Zoo
This interesting museum has a Mumbai history exhibit. The stone elephant that was removed from Elephanta Island—from which the island takes its name—is located to the right of the museum with a group of other statues. Open daily except Mon 9.30 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 2. The museum is located in the Byculla area, north of downtown.
Near the museum are the Mumbai Zoo (372-5799) (Rs 5) and the pleasant Botanical Gardens. Open daily except Wed 9 am to 5.30 pm.
Elephanta Caves (Gharapuri)
These thousand-year-old caves are 10km from Mumbai on an island in the middle of the harbor. There are four rock-carved temples on the island, constructed between 450 and 750 AD.
The main Siva temple is carved out of the western hill, about 75m (250 ft) above sea level. The main altar, which contains a Siva-linga has entrances on all four sides and dwarapalas (door guards) on each side of the doors. There are detailed carved wall panels depicting Siva’s pastimes. One panel depicts the marriage of Siva and Parvati. The panels on the south side of the cave are the most impressive. The famous three-headed Trimurti statue is carved out of a single rock. This statue is considered to be one of the masterpieces of Indian sculpture. It is 6m (20 ft) tall; each head is 2m (6 ft) high. To one side, a panel depicts Siva’s receipt of the Ganges River on his head. In another, Siva is depicted as Ardhanari, a simultaneous male and female form. There is also a panel depicting Ravana trying to rip up Mount Kailash, and another of Siva killing the demon Andhaka.
Boats leave every thirty minutes from the Gateway of India from 9 am to 2.30 pm (Rs 35). You purchase a ticket from the booth on the boat landing or just before boarding. Luxury boats cost double the price of regular boats. Both arrive at the same time, but the luxury boat provides a free guide on the island and the boat may not be as crowded. The boat trip takes about an hour. You can take any boat back if you have a luxury boat ticket.
A catamaran (287-5473) departs daily at 10 am and returns at 2 pm from India Gate (45 min, Rs 175).
There are official guides at the top of the hill who speak good English and know the area well. As soon as you come off the boat, freelance guides will probably approach you. Ignore them, as the official guides are both better and cost less. You can get refreshments at the MTDC Chalukya Restaurant.
Visitors must climb a steep set of stairs to reach the caves. It is also possible to hire a palanquin and to be carried up (Rs 10). It takes about an hour to see everything at the top of the hill. It is best to come here on a weekday, as weekends are quite crowded.
The entry fee for Elephanta Caves is Foriegners/Indians US$5/ Rs 10.
ISKCON (Hare Krishna) Temple
Located on four acres of land in Mumbai’s picturesque Juhu Beach, ISKCON’s Hare Krishna Land (620-6860) includes a spacious marble temple, theater, restaurant, Bhaktivedanta Institute, and a twin-towered seven-storey hotel. The project cost more than $2 million dollars in 1976 and took nearly three years to build.
The main Deities on the center temple altar are Radha-Rasabihari and the gopis Lalita and Visakha. Rasabihari is a name for Krishna meaning “the enjoyer of the transcendental rasa dance.”
On the right altar are Sita-Rama, Their servant Hanuman, and Rama’s brother Laksman. On the left are Prabhu Nityananda and Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. At their feet sit Srila Prabhupada, Founder-Acharya of the International Society for Krishna Consciousness, and his spiritual master, Srila Bhaktisiddhanta Saraswati Thakur.
In alcoves on either side of the courtyard, fifteen colorful dioramas depict scenes from Srimad-Bhagavatam, Bhagavad-gita, and Ramayana. There is an excellent vegetarian restaurant and a maha-prasada booth.
To get here from downtown, you can take either an express train from Churchgate Station to Andheri Station, or a local train to Vile Parle Station, which is closer to the downtown but is served only by local trains. Then take an auto-rickshaw the rest of the way (about Rs 20 from Andheri or Vile Parle). Most of the rickshaw drivers know the temple as the “Hare Krishna Mandir, ISKCON.”
Entertainment
There are event pages in the Indian Express and Times of India newspapers. The Government of India tourist office prints an entertainment guide every other week.
The National Centre for Performing Arts (NCPA) (283-3737), at the end of Nariman Point, has regular, high-quality dance, music, and drama performances. The box office is open 9 am to 1.30 pm and 4.30 to 6.30 pm.
Regal Cinema in Colaba shows movies in English.
It is important to find a place to stay as early in the day as possible, as finding a room can be difficult. It is best to arrive early in Mumbai and start looking for a room right away, or reserve a room in advance. Most hotels are booked well before noon. Also, Mumbai is by far the most expensive place in India in which to get a room. Rooms cost three to five times the normal Indian price. A room that would be Rs 100 somewhere else could be Rs 400 in Mumbai.
For less expensive hotels, the luxury tax is 10%; for expensive hotels, service charges and luxury tax can range from 30% to 42%.
If you arrive at the airport in the evening or at night and you plan to get a middle or high-priced hotel, it is a good idea to book a room at the accommodations booking desk in the airport lobby. By this time most of the hotels will be full. If you go to the Colaba area to get an inexpensive room in the afternoon, you may want to engage a tout (commission agent) to find you a room. They often know what hotels have rooms available
One person told me she went to five places, all full, before hiring a tout (they are definitely not all bad).
Where to Stay In Colaba—Lower
The well-managed Hotel Lawrence (2284-3618), 3rd floor, 33 As Baba Marg, down a side road in back of the Prince of Wales Museum off K Dubash Marg, is a small, quiet, place with clean rooms for Rs 450/550 and Rs 800 for a triple. It is a good value and usually full (has only six rooms. Recommended.
Salvation Army Red Shield Hotel (2284-1824), 30 Mereweather Rd, behind the Taj, has rooms for Rs 700/1000 (meals included) and dorm beds for Rs 150 (with meals Rs 160). It is the least expensive place in town. You have to reserve a room in advance. Dorm beds are first come, first served, so it is a good idea to arrive by the 9 am checkout time. Have left luggage facilities for Rs 50 per day.
Apollo Guest House (2204-5540; Email: hotelapollogh@hotmail.com), first floor of the Mathuradas Estate Building, 43/45 Colaba Causeway, has really small rooms with common bath for Rs 550/650, rooms with bath for Rs 800/900 and A/C Rs 1400.
The popular Whalley’s Guest House (283-1802; fax 283-4206), 41 Mereweather Rd, on the third floor, has large rooms with common bath and a nice verandah for Rs 650/750 and Rs 750/850 with A/C. The rooms on the top floor overlooking the street are best. Overpriced.
Many backpackers stay at Rex-Stiffles, by the Taj Hotel, which has rooms for Rs 350.
Hotel Volga II (2282 4755), upstairsRustam Manzil, near the Leopold Restaurant, has very small rooms with common bath for Rs 600, with bath for Rs 700, and with A/C for Rs 950. The A/C rooms are the cheapest in Colaba. There is no sign for this place.
Hotel Carlton (202-0259), 12 Mereweather Rd, is a decent value, but run-down. Rooms with common bath are Rs 400/500 and A/C rooms with bath are Rs 1050. It is an acceptable place.
Hotel Prosser’s (2284-1715), 2-4 Henry Rd, has decent rooms with common bath ranging from Rs 500/700 to Rs 850 for much nicer rooms. Some rooms have an ocean view.
India (2283-3769), 3rd Floor, 1/39 Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Rd, has small, partitioned rooms with common bath and no windows for Rs 500/600 and rooms with a sea view for Rs 600/700. The Sea Shore (2287-4237), above the India Hotel on the 4th floor, is a decent value with rooms for 500/600. The rooms facing the sea for Rs 600/800 are better than the other rooms. Below the Hotel Indian is the Hotel Sea Lord (2284-5392), with windowless small rooms for Rs 500/600 and rooms with a seaview for Rs 600/700. All these places are about the same.
YWCA (2202-5053; Web Site: http://www.ywcabombay.com), 2nd floor of 18 Madam Cama Rd, is a quiet place with very clean rooms for Rs 850/1500 and with A/C for Rs 1800. It is popular and must usually be booked one month in advance. Breakfast, dinner, and all taxes included in the price.Good location.
The well-managed Bentley’s Hotel (2284-1474; fax 2287-1846; Email: bentleyshotel@hotmail.com; Web Site: http://www.bentleyshotel.com), 17 Oliver Rd, is an older place with well-maintained rooms with common bath for Rs 800/1085 and a room large enough in which to hold a cricket match for Rs 1250. A/C Rs 200 extra. It is a popular place. Breakfast included with the price. Rooms have character with balconies and colonial furniture..Can book by email, which is recommended. Accept credit cards.
Where to Stay—Other Lower
Bentley Hotel (203-1244), corner of Marine Drive and D Rd, on the 3rd floor, is a good, inexpensive place with clean common baths in a quiet area by the seashore. Rooms are Rs 400/450. The two rooms in the back of the hotel are best.
Jones Lodging House, Abbas Building, 35 Mereweather Rd, is a basic place, but is a good value for the price.
YMCA International House (307-0601), 18 YMCA Rd, near Mumbai Central, has rooms with common bath for Rs 550/850, with bath Rs 750/1000, and with A/C Rs 850/1200. A temporary membership is Rs 100.
Victoria Terminal and Fort Area
Victoria Terminal has Retiring Rooms costing Rs 250 for a dorm bed, Rs 400 for a room, and Rs 500 for an A/C room.
There are a number of less expensive places by Victoria Terminal.
Railway Hotel (2261-6705; fax 2265-8949; E railwayhotel@hotmail.com), 249 P D’Mello Rd, is better than average, with rooms with bath for Rs 1000/1400 and an A/C rooms with TV and fridge for Rs 1500/1900.
Hotel Manama (2261-3412; fax 2261 3860), 221/225 P D’Mello Rd, is a good place with clean rooms with common bath and TV for Rs 750, a room with bath and TV for Rs 1000, and with A/C for Rs 1200. It is conviently located by the railway station.
Lord Hotel, 301 Adi Marsban Path (Mangalore St), just off P D’Mello Rd, is a decent place with rooms for Rs 400/500.
Benazeer (261-1725; fax 261-7798), 16 Rustam Sindhwa Marg (Gunbow St), has decent rooms for Rs 750/850.
Oasis (2239 6570; 2266 9183; Email: hoteloasis@satyam.net), 272 SBS Marg, is a good value with well-maintained rooms with 650/750 and 900/1000 with A/C. This is a good choice in the Fort area..
Hotel City Palace (2261-5515; fax; 2267 6897; Email: hotelcitypalace@vsnl.net), 121 City Terrace, WH Marg, opposite Victoria Terminal, has a good selection of rooms with bath, TV, and a good view of the city for Rs 750/900 and Rs 1000/1350 for an A/C room. It is a decent place.
Mumbai Palace (308-6118), Syed Villa, off YMCA Rd, near Mumbai Central, is a mid-priced place with good-sized comfortable A/C rooms.
Hotel Kemp’s Corner (2363-4646; fax 2363-4732), 131 August Kranti Marg, has A/C rooms with bath and TV for Rs 1400/1500 and deluxe rooms for 1700/1800. It is a good value.
Grand Hotel (5658 0500-8211; fax 5658 0501; Web Site: http://www.grandhotelbombay.com), 17 Shri Shiv Ramgulam Marg, Ballard Estate, is a large, older place built around a boring central courtyard. It has comfortable rooms with bath, a small balcony, and TV for Rs 2300/2800. Economy rooms are Rs 1800/2100.
Where to Stay in Colaba—Middle
Hotel Cowie’s (284-0232), 15 Walton Rd, has rooms with bath, A/C, a fridge, and TV for Rs 1350/1700. Not all rooms have windows.
Regent Hotel (2287-1864; fax 2202-0363; Email: hotelregent@vsnl.com), 8 Best Rd, is a good place with very comfortable, A/C rooms with TV for Rs 2400/2700. Rooms have either a blacony or sitting room. Good value.
Hotel Diplomat (202-1661; fax 283-0000), 24-26 Boman Behram Marg, Apollo Bunder, has quiet, decent rooms for Rs 1500/1800.
Ascot Hotel (fax 204-6449), 38 Garden Rd, has an assortment of good-sized, well decorated, comfortable rooms with bath, A/C, fridge, and TV for Rs 1657 to Rs 2050. It is one of the oldest hotels in Mumbai. Recommended. If this hotel doesn’t appeal to you, you can look at the other two hotels on the same street.
Godwin Hotel (2287-2050; fax 2287-1592; Web Site: http://www.cybersols.com/godwin), 41 Garden Rd, has rooms for Rs 2200/3216. It is a clean, well-managed place. The rooms on the upper floors have better views.
Garden Hotel (2284-1476; Email: gardenhotel@mail.com), 42 Garden Rd, has clean, comfortable double rooms with bath and TV ranging from Rs 2100 to Rs 3100. Terrace garden. Well-managed.
Strand Hotel (288-2222; fax 284-1624), 25 Apollo Bunder, has rooms for Rs 1500/1860. It is not such a good value.
Kerawalla Chambers (282-1089), above the Strand has decent, clean rooms with bath, TV, and a fridge for Rs 650 and Rs 700 for an A/C room. Rooms with a seaview are Rs 950. It can be noisy.
Shelley's Hotel (2284-0229; fax 2284-0385; Email: shelleyshotel@vsnl.com; Web Site: http://www.shelleyshotel.com), next door, PJ Ramchandani Marg (Apollo Bunder), is a nice, older place with good-sized comfortable rooms with TV starting at Rs 1400/2100 and a room with a sea view for Rs 2500. Recommended, but you should reserve in advance..
Regency Inn (202-0292), Mahakavi Bhushan Marg, behind Regal Cinema, has A/C rooms with TV and fridge for Rs 1400/1650. It is best to see the rooms, as they have quite a variety.
On the same street, the three-star Hotel Suba Palace (2202-0636; fax 2202-0812; Web Site: http://www.hotelsubapalace.com), Battery St, Mahakavi Bhushan Marg, has good, clean, comfortable rooms with TV and fridge for Rs 2000/2650. It is a modern place.
Hotel Apollo (202-0223; fax 287-4990), Lansdowne Rd, behind Regal Theatre, is a good place with rooms for Rs 1200/1400. The rooms with a sea view are best.
Hotel Causeway 2(281-7777; fax 2281-0999; Web Site: http://www.hotelcauseway.com), 3rd floor Mathuradas Estate, 43/45 SB Singh Rd, Colaba Causeway, above the Hotel Apollo, is a decent place with small A/C rooms with bath for Rs 1250.
VT Station Area & Fort Area
Hotel Residency (2262-5524; fax 2261-9164, Email; residencyhotel@vsnl.com) 26 Rustom Sidhwa MargSt, corner of D Naoroji Rd, is a nice, well-maintained place with standard, very clean, comfortable rooms with TV for Rs 1700; deluxe rooms Rs 2000. Recommended.
Where to Stay—Marine Drive
Sea Green Hotel 5633 6525; fax 5633 6530, Web Site: http://www.seagreenhootel.com), 145 Marine Dr., has clean rooms with A/C and TV for Rs 1800/2400. 24-hour checkout. The Sea Green South (5633 6535; fax: 5633 6540; fax;: 5636 6540; Web Site: http://www.seagreensouth.com), next door, is about the same. Ask for a sea facing room.
Chateau Windsor Guest House (2204 4455; fax 2202-6459; Web Site: http://www.chateauwindsor.com), 86 Veer Nariman Rd, is a popular place with a selection of very clean rooms. Rooms are Rs 850/1400 and Rs 1400/1800 with A/C. As there are a variety of rooms, it is best to look at a few rooms. Popular so should be reserved in advance. Excellent service.
Norman’s Guest House (203-4234), 127 Marine Dr, has clean, basic A/C rooms with common bath for Rs 1000/1150 and with bath for Rs 1400. The rooms in the front of the building are better. Overpriced.
Middle—Juhu Beach
The Anand Guest House (620-2234), just down the road from the ISKCON Temple, toward the beach, is a clean place with rooms for Rs 1000/1050. 8 am checkout. Best to reserve in advance or to book a room early in the morning.
A couple of blocks away is the Hotel King’s (614-9775), 5 Juhu Tara Rd, with overpriced rooms for Rs 1100/1200.
ISKCON (2620-6860, 2620-0870; Web Site: http://www.iskcon.org),111 Hare Krishna Lane, Juhu Beach, is attached to the Hare Krishna Temple. A Rs 1500/1700 donation is requested for a very clean, well-maintained rooms with A/C and hot water. Smoking and drinking are not allowed on the premises and there are no TVs in the rooms. It is an interesting place and a good value. It has an excellent restaurant. Thalis Rs 150. It is a well-managed place and it is worth staying just for the experience.
Sea Side Hotel (620-0293), 39/2 Juhu Rd, has A/C rooms with bath for Rs 1000/1200.
South End Hotel (612-5213), 11 Juhu Tara Rd, has rooms for Rs 900/1000.
Golden Manor (616-4271; fax 610-4279) has a pool and A/C rooms ranging from Rs 1700 to Rs 2200. It is a nice place.
The Sea View Hotel, Juhu Beach, has rooms with a good view of the sea for about Rs 1100.
Where to Stay—Airport
There are some relatively cheaper hotels about a ten-minute walk from the airport. For what you get the rooms are overpriced but they are definitely convient for a early morning flight.
There are comfortable Retiring Rooms at the domestic airport, which can be used if you are departing on a flight within 24 hours. Inquire at the airport manager’s office. It is often full.
Hotel Shangri-la (2612 8983) Nanda Patkar Rd, off Nehru Rd, Vile Parle, ten minutes from the airport, is the cheapest place in the area with clean rooms for Rs 600 and Rs 900 with A/C.
Hotel Aircraft (2612-1419; fax 2618 2942; Email: aircraft@indiatimes.com), 179 Dayaldas Rd, opposite Western Express Highway near the domestic airport, is one of the least expensive hotels in the area with clean rooms for Rs 1400/1800 with A/C and TV. 24-hour check-out
Highway Inn (832-0021), Vishal Shopping Center, Andheri Kurla Rd, 3km from Sahar by the Andheri railway station, has a selection of inexpensive but clean rooms with bath and TV for Rs 1050/1200. It is a good value.
Hotel Airways (514-9855), near Sarvodaya Hospital, 5km from the airport, has rooms for Rs 550/650 and Rs 750/850 with A/C.
Most of the hotels by the airport are high-priced. Behind the Centaur is a group of high-priced but good hotels.
The modern Hotel Airport International (612-2883; fax 618-3333) has comfortable, clean rooms for Rs 1400/1600.
Hotel BAWA (2611-3636; fax 2610-7096; Email: bawaintl@vsnl.com), Nehru Rd Extension, has comfortable rooms for Rs 3400/3900.
Avion Hotel (612-3902), Nehru Road, has rooms for Rs 1650/1900.
Hotel Atithi (611-6124; fax 611-1998), near the domestic terminal, is a popular place with comfortable rooms for Rs 2300/2500. It is heavily booked, so it must be reserved in advance.
The five-star Centaur Hotel, directly across from the Indian Air Terminal, Santa Cruz, has rooms for Rs 6500.
The best place near the airports is the excellent Leela Kempinski (836-3636; fax 836-0606), near the international terminal, with rooms for $335/360. It has an excellent restaurant.
High—Colaba and Downtown
West End Hotel (2203-9121; fax 2205-7506; Web Site: http://www.westendhotelmumbai.com), 45 New Marine Lines, opposite the Bombay Hospital, is a well-managed place with comfortable rooms starting at Rs 2000/2600 and going up to a suite for Rs 3800. It has a good restaurant. It is a good value for what you get. Recommended.
The well-managed four-star Fariyas Hotel (2204-2911; fax 2283-4992; http://www.fariyas.com), is a four-star place west of Arthur Bunder Rd, near the Taj, has good, well-maintained rooms with A/C starting at $150/175. It has a small pool and a health club.
The four-star Ritz Hotel (282-0141; fax 285-0494), 5 Jamshedji Tata Rd, near Churchgate Station, has rooms starting at Rs 4000/5000. It is in an older, well-maintained building. No pool.
Taj Mahal Intercontinental (5665-3366; fax 5665-0323; Email: tmhresv.bom@tajhotels.com; Web Site: http://www.tajhotels.com), next to the Gateway of India, is considered one of the best hotels in the world. It has a good bookshop an excellent pool and a heath club. The opulent rooms begin at $200/250 and the Presidential suite is $1700. A room with a sea view is $310/340.Some of rooms face the pool. This hotel has a new and an old wing. The old wing is slightly more expensive. It has Indian dance at night (open to non-guests). This hotel is so impressive that it worth coming to see it as a tourist site. Great location and atmosphere.You can check room availability on their web site and reserve a room online.
The five-star Taj Group’s Hotel President (215-0808; fax 215-1201), 90 Cuffe Parade, Colaba, is a luxurious place with rooms starting at $195/215. Between November and April this place is usually booked, so reserve a room well in advance.
The four-star Ambassador Hotel (2204-1131; fax 2204-0004; Email: ambassador@vsnl.com) is a luxury four-star place with a revolving rooftop restaurant that is worth checking out for the views. Rooms are $200/210.
Oberoi & Oberoi Towers (5632 5757; fax 2204-3282; Email; reservations@oberoi-mumbai.com; Web Site http://www.oberoihotels.com) are two luxury hotels right next to each other with modern business rooms. The rooms at the Oberoi start at $325, and go up to well over $1,000 The rooms at the Tower start at $250. . It competes with the Taj for being the most luxurious hotel in Mumbai. It has a good shopping mall and a nice pool. Popular with businessmen.
High—Juhu Beach
Centaur Hotel (611-3040; fax 611-6343), Juhu Beach, is an excellent place. Rooms range from $150 to $400. There is a reservation office here for Indian Airlines and Air India.
The four-star Hotel Sands (620-4512; fax 620-5268), 39/2 Juhu Beach, has rooms for Rs 1700/2000 and suites for Rs 3700. It has a good restaurant.
Holiday Inn (5693-4444; fax 5693-4455; Email: reserve@holidayinnbombay.comWeb Site: http://www.holidayinnbombay.com), Balraj Sahani Marg, next to the beach has rooms for $225/250 up to $400. The price includes a buffet brealfast
Ramada Inn Palm Grove (611-2323; fax 611-3682), Juhu Beach, has rooms from $150/175 to $275 for a suite.
The five-star Hotel Sea Princess (2661-1111, 5692 4455; fax 2661-1144, Email: seaprincess@vsnl.com; Web Site:http://www.seaprincess.com/) has rooms for Rs 5500/6000.
Hotel Horizon (614-4512; fax 611-6715), 37 Juhu Beach, has rooms for 4000/4500.
Sun-n-Sand Hotel (620-1811; fax 620-2170) is a good place with rooms for Rs 5000/5500.
Kolhapur
Pop: 487,000
Phone Code 0231
Postcode 416001
Elevation 555m
Kolhapur was once the capital of an important Maratha state. Shivaji’s youngest son ruled from here. It is a nice city with interesting sites.
Information
The MTDC Tourist Office (226-52935), Kedar Complex, Station Rd, a five-minute walk from the railway station, operates a guided tour of Kolhapur and Panhala (Rs 60). Hours: 10 am to 5:30pm
State Bank of India (266-0735), Udyamnagar, near Hutatma Park, changes money. UTI Bank, Station Rd, has a 24-hour ATM. It is a little west of Hotel International.
There is a good selction of Internet facilities here.
Maharaja’s Palace
British architect Charles Mant designed the New Palace in 1881 in the Indo-Saracenic style. It has a large clocktower.
Inside the palace is the Shahaji Chhatrapati Museum, containing an unusual and interesting collection of the former Maharaja’s possessions. There is an large, excellent weapons collection, including a gold-plated, double-barreled shotgun, some swords, and other guns. One of Aurangzeb’s swords is in the collection.
The palace is about 2km north of the center of town (Rs 15 by auto-rickshaw). Admission Rs 5.
Panhala Fort
Panhala is a hill station at 975m (3220 ft), 19km from Kolhapur. There is a hilltop fort here, originally built by Raja Bhoj II in 1192. Shivaji stayed here for some time. It was taken by the Mughals and then the Marathas, and eventually fell into British hands in 1844. The fort’s walls are 7km long. The fort was built in a triangular shape with three gates, and has 9m (30 ft) high walls.
MTDC Cottages (02328 35048) has rooms for Rs 300/400.
There are regular buses to here from Kolhapur.
Other Places
The Old Palace (Rajwada) is open 10 am to 6 pm. Some members of the Maharaja’s family still live in the palace. It is possible to view the entrance hall. There is a temple here dedicated to Bhavana, the family deity.
The 18th century Maha Lakshmi Temple has an interesting carved ceiling. The four-armed deity of Maha Lakshmi (goddess of fortune and consort of Lord Vishnu) is flanked by Mahakali and Saraswati. On the upper floor there is a Siva-linga and a sacred yantra. On Friday the deity of Maha Lakshmi is taken out on a procession around the temple grounds.
There are interesting ghats along the holy Panch-ganga River.
The Town Hall (1876) is now a museum containing archaeological finds from the nearby Brahmapur Hill, such as bronze and pottery.
Where to Stay and Eat
Most of the hotels are located near the bus station.
There are Retiring Rooms at the railway station.
Maharaja (650-829), 514 Station Rd, opposite the bus stand, has basic, clean rooms with common bath for Rs 100/175 and Rs 200/300 with bath. It is one of the better cheap places.
City Lodge, on the west side of the square, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 175/225. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Chalukya (652-996) has decent rooms with hot water in the morning for Rs 275.
Hotel Girish (651-236) has clean rooms with TV for Rs 225/350. It has a restaurant.
MTDC Panhala (435-048), at the Panhala Fort, is a mid-range choice.
Hotel International (265-2442; fax 265-2445), Station Rd, a ten-minute walk east of the bus station, has rooms with bath and TV for Rs 500/650 and Rs 900 with A/C. It has a good vegetarian restaurant. Ask for a room in the back, because Station Road can be noisy.
Woodlands (650-941; fax 633-378), 204E Tarabai Park, has quiet, mid-range rooms with TV. It has a garden and is a good value. Best to book in advance.
Hilltop Hotel (435-048), Panhala Fort, has clean, comfortable rooms for Rs 600/700.
Nearby, Hotel Panchsil (650-517), Station Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 600/650 and Rs 850/900 with A/C.
Hotel Shalini Palace, (263-0401; fax: 263-0407near Lake Rankala, 5km from the railway station, is the old summer palace of the maharaja. It has rooms for Rs 1500/1600, Rs 1800/2150 with A/C, and suites for up to Rs 2600. Some of the rooms are designed for royalty.
Pearl (650-451; fax 659-987), New Sahupuri, is a good place with a pool and a garden.
Travel
The railway station is close to the town center, ten minutes from the bus station. There are trains to Pune (9 hr) and Mumbai (13 hr).
There are buses to Mahabaleswara, Pune, Bijapur, and Belgaum. Private companies operate buses to Goa and Mumbai.
Lonavla
Pop: 56,000
Phone Code: 02114
Postcode 410401
Elevation 623m
The main reason to come here is to visit the Buddhist caves at Karla and Bhaja. Because it is only three hours from Mumbai, this site is also popular with Mumbai residents as a weekend vacation spot.
Information
The Maharashtra Tourist Office is near the railway station.
You can change money at the State Bank of India, Tilak Rd, and at the Bank of Maharashtra.
Where to Stay—Lower
There are many hotels in Lonavla.
Ardash (72353), about 100m down Shivaji Rd from the bus stand, on the left, has basic, clean rooms with baths and Indian toilets for Rs 300 and Rs 1000 for an A/C deluxe room.
DT Shahani Health Home (72784), DJ Shaham Rd, has clean rooms for Rs 250/350 (price includes meals). It is a good budget place.
Madhu’s Resort (72657), on Mumbai-Pune Rd, opposite the bus stand, is an old Maharashtrian house with basic wooden rooms for Rs 200/300.
Pitale Lodge (72657) is an older place with basic rooms with common bath for Rs 250. It has a garden. It is a friendly place.
Hotel Chandralok (722921; fax: 272921; Email: hotelchandralok@vsnl.com), near the railway station, has clean, comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 600 and A/C rooms for Rs 1200. There is a restaurant here that serves good Gujarati thalis. Friendly and recommended.
Where to Stay—Middle and High
Hotel Rama Krishna 2(73600; Mumbai 022 2617-8111), on the main road, has rooms for Rs 900 and Rs 1100 with A/C. It has a good restaurant.
MTDC Karle Resort (82230), Mumbai-Pune Rd, 2km from the railway station, has comfortable rooms and A/C cottages. It has a good restaurant.
Hotel Star Regency (73331; fax 72825 Mumbai 618-3708), Justice Telang Rd, has rooms for Rs 1700 and suites for Rs 2300.
Biji’s Kumar Resort (27309" fax 272-95; Mumbai 022 2648-8549; Email: kumar_Inl@hotmail.com1; Mumbai 604-5669), on the main road, has large, comfortable rooms for Rs 2900 to Rs 4300. It has a pool and a very good restaurant.
Duke’s Retreat (73826; fax 73836; Mumbai 261-0983), at Khandala, has comfortable rooms for Rs 3500 and Rs 4500 for a deluxe room—which includes all taxes plus breakfast and dinner. It is in a great location with a good view.
Fariyas Holiday Resort (73852; fax 72080; Mumbai 265-5317), is a luxury place, with a pool, health club, nice garden, and two restaurants. Rooms are Rs 2400/3700. It is located on a hill.
Mehfil Restaurant, near the bus stand, has good Chinese food.
Travel
Frequent buses leave from here to Mumbai (4 hr, Rs 50, deluxe Rs 60) and Pune. The buses are not comfortable in this area.
Lonavla is on the main Mumbai-Pune railway line. There are frequent express trains to Mumbai (3 hr, 130km) and Pune (1 hr for an express; 2 hr for a local, 65km). The train station (273725).
Buses go to Karla at 6, 9, 11 am, 1, 3, and 6.30 pm and return thirty minutes later. A rickshaw from here to the caves at Karla and Bhaja costs about Rs 300, which includes waiting time
Mahabaleswar
Pop: 10,600 Area
Phone Code: 02168
Postcode: 412806
Elevation: 1370m
Mahabaleswara, located about 250km southeast of Mumbai, is a popular hill station, at an altitude of 1370m (4520 ft). It is in the Sahyadri range, the source of the holy Krishna River, one of India’s seven holy rivers.
Mahabaleswara was the summer capital during the British rule.
There are some pleasant walks and some excellent views in the area. The sea is visible from here on a clear day. October to May are good months to visit. During the monsoon, the rains are heavy and many of the hotels and shops are closed (mid-June to mid-Sept).
Information
There is a Tourist Information Center at Kedar Complex, Station Rd. The MTDC has conducted tours that last four hours. Tours can be booked at the MTDC Hotel Holiday Resort.
Maharashtra Tourism (MTDC) (260318; fax: 260300), Main Rd, has a tour (Rs 50) of Mahabaleswara, Panchgani, and Pratapgarh Fort. It is booked at the MTDC Holiday Resort.
You can get a decent map, which shows some interesting walks and most of the hotels. You can get a map of the area from Treacher & Co in the main bazaar.
Bank of Maharashtra (260290), Main Rd, changes money and travelers cheques.
There is a bicycle shop at the end of the bazaar (Rs 5 per hour).
What to Do
The main activity here is taking walks around the area. There are nice waterfalls, such as Dhobi’s, Lingmala, and Chinaman’s Falls.
Some viewpoints in the area are Wilson’s Point, Babington, Elphinstone, Kate’s and Bombay Point. At Authur’s Seat (12km) there is a steep drop of 600m and there is a great view from there.
Mahatma Gandhi lived at Morarji Castle in 1945. There are some old, interesting buildings, such as Christ Church with its beautiful stained glass window, Sir BD Petit Library, and Mount Malcolm, which was the Government House.
There are boating facilities on Veena Lake (3km).
Temples
The Mahabaleswara Temple, dedicated to Lord Siva, houses one of the twelve important Siva Jyotirlingas. There is a room in the temple containing a bed which each morning is said to show signs of having been slept in, although the doors are locked.
Beside the famous Mahabaleswara Temple is the Atibaleswara Temple. There are several old temples dating back to the 13th century near the old village, about 5km from the main post office. In the old town there are three temples—the Krishnabai, Rama, and Hanuman temples. Panch-ganga is said to have five holy rivers flowing from it, including the Krishna River.
Where to Stay and Eat
Room prices go up during the high season from mid-April to mid-June and from November to January. Prices can be more than double during the high season. Many of the hotels are closed during the monsoon.
Hotel Parijat (60196) 85 Main Rd, has clean rooms for Rs 200 to 300 during the off-season.
Hotel Saraswati, Mari Peth, has rooms with hot water for Rs 125/150. During the high season the rooms are Rs 350.
Sai Niwas (60549), 338 Koli Alley, has clean rooms for Rs 200/250. Some rooms have balconies. It is a good budget choice.
Hotel Prity Sangam (60437), Murray Peth Rd, near the school, has clean rooms for Rs 600 during the off-season and Rs 1100 during the season. A good value.
Rama Regency (60397) has rooms for Rs 450 during the off-season and over Rs 1200 during the season.
Kalpana Excellency (60419), on Murray Peth Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 500 in the off-season (Rs 1400 during season).
Ripon (60291), opposite IOC Holiday Home, is a family-run place with a lake view. Rooms are Rs 450 during the low season and Rs 600 in the high season.
Grand Hotel (60322), Woodlawn Rd, is a decent, mid-range place with a verandah and a nice garden.
Dreamland (60228; fax 60063), behind the bus stand, is a mid-range place with rooms for Rs 800/1000. It has a pool, a nice garden, and a very good outdoors vegetarian restaurant.
MTDC Holiday Resort (60318; fax 60300) has a wide range of reasonably priced rooms as well as a dorm and large cottages. Rooms range from Rs 250 to Rs 850. It has dorm beds for Rs 75. You can book rooms for this hotel at the MTDC office (202-6713) in Mumbai.
Fountain Hotel (60227; fax 60137; Mumbai 367-7182), opposite Koyna Valley, near the downtown, is a good-sized, mid-range place with a vegetarian restaurant. Comfortable rooms range from Rs 1000 to Rs 2200.
Brightland Holiday Village (60353), Nakhinda Village, has a pool and is the best place in town. It is 4km from city center.
Hotel Anarkali (60336; fax 61166), Kasam Sajan Rd, has good rooms for Rs 1500/2100.
Hotel Panorama (260404; fax 261234; Email: panorama@pn2.vsnl.in), near the bus stand, has rooms ranging from Rs 1000 to Rs 2400 during the off-season. It has a vegetarian restaurant serving South Indian food and pizzas.
Where to Eat
Shreyas is a vegetarian restaurant by the bus stand.
Hotel Dreamland, behind the bus stand, has an excellent outdoors vegetarian restaurant serving Indian and Mexican food.
Meghdoot, Dr Sabane Rd, serves good Indian, Mughlai, Chinese, and Gujarati food.
Veena Restaurant, at the Holiday Resorts, is a good place.
Imperial Stores, at the end of Sabane Rd, serves pizza and Western food.
Travel
The nearest airport and major railway station are in Pune, 122km away.
From Mumbai, the MSRTC luxury bus (7 hr, Rs 125, 7 am) departs Mumbai Central bus stand. It should be booked in advance in Mumbai at the MTDC office, CDO Hutment, Madame Cama Road. The MTDC deluxe bus departs to Mumbai at 3 pm.
There are regular buses between Pune and Mahabaleswara (3½ hr, Rs 25), and buses to Kolhapur (7 hr, three daily) and Satara (1 hr, three daily). There are many private bus companies in the bazaar with buses going to places within Maharashtra and Goa
Vehicle Shared taxis and minivans go between Neral and Matheran for Rs 55per person. Taxis Rs 350.
If you arrive by vehicle, you will be dropped off at the taxi stand, 2½ km from the center of town, which is as far as motor vehicles are permitted. It is a thirty-minute walk into town. A bicycle-rickshaw into town costs about Rs 125, and a horse ride Rs 75.
Nagpur
Pop: 1.8 million Area Code: 0712
Nagpur is a hassle-free city, virtually in the middle of India. There is not really anything to do here. It may be necessary to travel through, while going to the Gandhi Ashram in Sevagram, Paunar, or Ramtek.
Information
The MTDC Tourist Office (533-325), Sitabuldi, arranges tours of Sevagram, Ramtek, and the area. The Madhya Pradesh Tourist Office, Lokmat Building, Wardha Rd (Mon to Fri 10 am to 5 pm), can book accommodations for Kanha National Park and Pachmarhi.
You can change money at the State Bank of India, Kingsway, about half a km from the railway station.
You can rent a taxi across from the railway station or from Blaze Car Rental (22792), Sitabuldi.
Where to Stay
There are several hotels on Central Ave, a ten-minute walk from the railway station.
Woodlands (726-233; fax 543-950), Central Ave, has rooms for Rs 350/450.
Hotel Blue Diamond (727-461), 111 Central Ave, Dosar Chowk, has rooms with common bath for Rs 150/225 and Rs 400/500 with A/C. 24-hour checkout.
Pal Palace (724-724), 25 Central Ave, has large, clean, comfortable rooms for Rs 450/550 and Rs 600/700 with A/C.
Hotel Pal Palace (724-725), 25 Central Ave, has clean, comfortable rooms for Rs 300/350 and Rs 600/650 with A/C. It has a good restaurant. Foreign exchange for guest.
Hardeo (529-115; fax 534-885), Dr Munje Margi Marg, Sitabuldi, is a three-star hotel with A/C rooms for Rs 1250/1400. It is a good place with a good restaurant.
Rawell Continental (523-845), 7 Dhantoli, has rooms for Rs 1200/1400. It has central A/C.
Hotel Centre Point (520-910; fax 523-093), 24 Central Bazaar Rd, 3km from the railway station, has a pool and rooms for Rs 1000/1200 and with A/C Rs 1400/1700.
Jagsons Regency (261-102; fax 260-440), near the airport, has modern rooms for Rs 1600/1800 and Rs 1800/2100 with A/C. It has a pool, gym, and a rooftop restaurant. 24-hour checkout.
Where to Eat
Parnakuti, Ambazari Rd, near the lake, has good, medium-priced Maharashtrian food.
Jagsons Regency has a good rooftop restaurant.
Naivedhyam, near Rani Jhansi Chowk, Sitabuldi, has very good vegetarian food.
Travel
Indian Airlines (533-962) has daily flights to Mumbai and Delhi, and three flights a week to Calcutta, Hyderabad, and Bhubaneswar.
There are trains to Calcutta, Delhi, Bangalore, Hyderabad, and Mumbai. The railway station is close to the hotel area.
The MSRTC (Maharashtra State) bus stand is about 2km from the railway station. About a five-minute walk south is the bus stand from where buses to Madhya Pradesh depart
Nasik
Pop: 790,000 Area Code: 0253
Nasik is an important holy city located about five hours northeast of Mumbai (187km). Lord Rama stayed here for some time during his exile, and Ravana carried off Sita from this place. Nasik is on the banks of the holy Godavari River, which flows to the Bay of Bengal.
Laksman, Rama’s younger brother, cut off Surpanakha’s nose here. (Surpanakha is Ravana’s younger sister). It was this event that gave this place its name. Kumbha-mela takes place here every twelve years.
Nasik is a fairly large city, although it does not appear to be. Few foreign tourists come here, and it is a relatively hassle-free place. Coming from Mumbai, you can easily stop here on the way to the Ellora and Ajanta Caves or while traveling by train between Delhi and Mumbai.
Information
The Maharashtra Tourism Office (70059) is near the golf club on Old Agra Rd.
You can change money at the State Bank of India, on Swami Vivekananda Rd, by the City bus stand.
Lifeline Hospital (578-418) is one of the best in town.
Nasik Darshan Tour
There is a daily “Darshan Tour” (7.30 am to 5 pm, Rs 40), which is a good way to see some of the sites in the area. The tour takes all day, and visits the Pandava Lena caves, Sita Gupha, Kala Rama Mandir, Tapovan, Trimbakeswara Temple, and other sites. It is a good value. You find the bus by asking for the “Darshan Tour” bus. You should book this tour at the City Bus Stand in advance, as it is quite popular. The counter to book your ticket is to your right as you enter the station.
Ram Kund Area
This interesting area by the Godavari River is the main pilgrimage site in Nasik. It is easy to spend a few hours wandering around this area. Ram-kund is the place where Rama and Sita used to bathe, so this tank is considered especially sacred. Lord Rama is said to have performed his father’s funeral rites in this kund. It is also known as Asthi Vilaya Tirtha (Bone Immersion Tank), because bones dropped in this water dissolve. In recent years the following people’s bones were dropped in the Asthi Vilaya Tirtha after they had died: Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, her son Rajiv Gandhi, and Dr Rajendra Prasad. A concrete viewing tower surrounds it.
The Sundara Narayana Temple, built in 1756, is architecturally interesting. It contains 1m (3 ft) tall Vishnu and Lakshmi Deities. This temple is across the river from Ram Kund by the bridge.
The Naro Sankara Mandir is a Siva temple built by the Marathas in the 18th century. It is also known as the Rameswara Mandir. It has an enormous church bell which was taken from the Portuguese at the battle of Vasai (Bassein) in 1739.
Near Ram Kund is the 600-year-old Kapileswara Temple, “God of the Skull,” dedicated to Lord Siva. It is up fifty steps.
Nasik Kumbha-mela
Kumbha-mela is held in Nasik every twelve years. It also takes place at Allahabad, Haridwar, and Ujjain. This is one of the places where the drops of nectar fell when the demigods and demons fought during the churning of the Milk Ocean.
It is said that if one takes bath in the Godavari River while the nectar is falling, one accumulates merit equal to bathing in the Ganges for 60,000 years. About 3.5 million people attended the 1991 mela. The next Kumbha-mela will be held in August-September, 2015.
Sita Gumpha & Kala Rama Temple
Sita Gupha is said to be the place where Ravana came to abduct Sita. It is a small cave by the Kala Rama Temple. To see the Deities of Sita, Rama, and Laksman, visitors must crawl into the cave entrance.
Nearby the Kala (Black) Rama Temple (1782) has jet-black Deities of Sita, Rama, and Laksman. The tower over the temple is 25m (83 ft) high. There is no restriction on who is permitted into the temple.
Tapovan
It is said that at Tapovan, Laksman cut off the nose of Ravana’s sister, Surpanakha. Rama lived here during his exile. Great sages and rishis used to practice austerities at this place, which was then part of the Dandakaranya forest. It is fairly close to Sita Gupha.
Pandava Lena Caves
These Hinayana Buddhist rock-cut monasteries and temples, built in the 1st century AD, are located 10km from Nasik on the road to Mumbai. They are similar to the Ajanta Caves. There are twenty-four Buddhist caves, the most interesting being numbers 3, 8, and 15.
The most straightforward way to get to the caves is by auto-rickshaw or the Nasik Darshan tour bus. There are infrequent and crowded buses that pass the caves. It is a steep, ten-minute walk to the caves, and some people find the climb too difficult.
Where to Stay—Central Bus Stand
Most of the hotels in town are in the middle level, so it is not easy to find a decent budget place. The budget places are by the Central bus stand and fill up early, and they are more expensive than average.
Raj Mahal Lodge (572-880; fax 571-096), Sharampur Rd, has rooms with hot water and TV for Rs 225/300 up to Rs 450/500. It fills up early. It is about the best value of all the budget places.
Padma (576-837), Sharampur Rd, opposite the Central bus stand, is clean and has rooms with hot water for Rs 300/400.
Basera (575-616), Shivaji Rd, is a good value. It has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 300/400 and with A/C for Rs 450/500.
Holiday Plaza (573-521) is a popular place with Indian businessmen. It has rooms for Rs 450/600 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. It has a vegetarian restaurant.
Hotel Midtown has small singles with common bath for Rs 275 and good clean doubles for Rs 400.
Hotel Samrat (578-211; fax 581-246), Old Agra Rd, is a good, small, centrally located place. Rooms with TV and hot water go for Rs 450/600 and Rs 700/750 with A/C. I would recommend it, but it is slightly overpriced.
Hotel Panchavati Yatri (571-273; fax 572-293), just behind the Hotel Panchavati, has rooms with bath for Rs 350/500 and Rs 600/700 with A/C. It is an older version of the hotel in front of it, and at this price is recommended.
The two-star Hotel Panchavati (575-771; fax 571-823), 430 Vakilwadi, has A/C rooms for Rs 800/1100 and other rooms for Rs 650/800. It is one of the best places in town.
Where to Stay—Other Places
Hotel Krishna, near the Ahilyabai Holkar Bridge, by Ram Kund, is a nice place with hot water for Rs 300/450.
Greenview (572-231; fax 579-754), 1363 Trimbaka Road, is a modern place with rooms for Rs 650 /700 and Rs 900 /1000 with A/C. It has a nice garden.
Hotel Dwaraka Tourist (594-241; fax 593-028) Deolali Naka, is a Western-style hotel with rooms for 350/500 and with A/C for Rs 600.
VIP, on Old Agra Road, has modern rooms for Rs 400/500 and Rs 600 with A/C.
Hotel Sachin, on the Mumbai-Agra highway 3km outside of Nasik, is a good place but is inconveniently located.
Hotel Siddharth (554-288), on the Nasik-Pune Road by the airport, is a good place. The good-sized, well-maintained rooms are Rs 350/450 and Rs 450/550 with A/C.
The two-star Wasan’s Hotel (577-881; fax 594-202), Old Agra Rd, is a good place with rooms for Rs 600/800 and Rs 800/1000 with A/C.
Where to Eat
Pangat, in the Hotel Panchavati, Vakil Wadi, is a good vegetarian restaurant with reasonable prices.
Suruchi, beneath the Basera, Sivaji Rd, serves good South Indian and snacks.
Hotel Holiday Plaza, Shivaji Rd, Shalimar Chowk, has a vegetarian restaurant.
Centre Point Restaurant, on the main road near Hotel Panchavati, is a good, medium-priced place, which serves good macaroni and cheese and vegetable biryani. Recommended, but it is not cheap.
The best place in town is the Woodlands Restaurant, across the road from the Hotel Siddharth on the Nasik-Pune Rd. It serves excellent South Indian meals and thalis. The service is good, and it is reasonably priced.
Travel
Air The nearest airport is in Mumbai, 182km away.
Train The railway station is at Nasik Road (8km southeast of town). It is on both the main Mumbai-Delhi and Mumbai-Calcutta line of the Central Railway. Train tickets can be booked at the city-booking counter off MG Road (Mon to Fri 10 am to 5 pm).
There are regular trains to Mumbai (twelve daily, 5 hr). The Panchavati Express departs at about 7.20 am (4 hr). It is best to reserve this train in advance. The Punjab Mail #2137 (10.30 pm) is the best train to Delhi (21 hr) and Agra (17½ hours). There are also trains to Bhopal, Calcutta, and Varanasi. Aurangabad Tapovan Exp #7617 (10.07 am, 5 hr); Bhopal Punjab Mail #2137 (11.10 pm, 10 hr).
Bus Most buses depart from the City bus stand in the center of town close to the hotels and restaurants. There are regular buses to Pune (5 hr, 210km) and Aurangabad (5 hr).
You get buses to Mumbai at the Mahamarga Bus Stand, a ten-minute auto-rickshaw ride from the center of town. There are four luxury buses a day to Mumbai (4 hr to Dadar Station). Tickets for these buses must be booked in advance at the reservation counter of the City bus stand.
Pune (Poona)
Pop: 3.8 million
Phone Code: 020
Postcode 411001
Pune, the second largest city in Maharashtra, is located near the Sahyadri Hills at 586m (1973 ft). The main reason that many people come here is to go to the Osho Commune International, the ashram of Bhagwan Rajneesh. Even though it is a major industrial town, it is still a nice city. Because of the high cost of living in Mumbai many people commune daily to there from Pune.
The university here is one of the best schools in India. Mahatma Gandhi was placed under house arrest in the Palace of the Aga Khan here, now the Gandhi National Memorial.
Pune was the early home of Shivaji. His grandfather ruled it in 1599. It became the Maratha capital of the Brahmin Peshwa family in 1750. It came under the control of the British in 1817 and was used as the capital of the region during the monsoon season.
Orientation
Most of the hotels are located near the railway station. There are also hotels near the Osho Commune and near the Swargate bus station. Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd is the main street in town. Along this street and in the general area are banks, bookshops, hotels, and restaurants. The Osho Commune is located in a quiet residential area in the northeast section of the city. The old part of the city is to the west, where the Shaniwarwada Palace is located.
Information
The MTDC Tourist Office (261-26867) is opposite the railway station to your right Hours: Mon-Sat 10am05pm. There is an MTDC Tourist Counter at the railway station, which sells tickets for the MTDC Pune City tour, the tour to Mahabaleswara, and MTDC long-distance buses.
There is a Pune City tour departing at 8 am and 3 pm. The tour takes four hours and costs Rs 60. It is fast-paced. There is a tour to Mahabaleswara, departing at 7.30 am and returning at 10 pm. You can book tickets at the Tourist Counter in the railway station.
Tourist Guide of Pune is a monthly magazine that lists events in Pune and up-to-date travel information.
Pune Medical Foundation (623-391), Ruby Hall Clinic, Pound Garden Rd, Camp, is a possible hospital.
FotoFast, MG Rd, opposite the Hotel Aurora Towers, does one-hour film processing..
Phone Number Changes
The number for telephone inquiries is 613-1122.
Money
Thomas Cook (2634-6171; fax 643-027), 13 Thacker House, 2418 G Thimmaya Rd, off MG Rd, exchanges money efficiently (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm).
American Express, (2605-5337) Aurora Building, MG Rd (Mon to Fri 9 am to 5 pm, Sat 9 am to 3 pm). There is an exchange counter at the Osho Commune. The Central Bank of India (631-413), MG Rd, accepts Visa and MasterCard. There is an ATM machine at Citibank.
24-hour ATMs at Citibank on East St and their second branch on Bund Garden Rd. ICIC Bank has an ATM at the Pune railway station and on Koregaon Rd.
Post and Internet
The GPO is on Connaught Rd (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm). Poste restante at counter 2.
Internet: There are many internet places in Pune, many of them on or around MG Rd. ICE (263-6611), 113 Ashoka Mall, Bund Garden Rd, across from the Holiday Inn, has internet facilities for Rs 70 per hour. NRA Cyber Cafe, Ashok Vijay Complex, 326 MG Rd, has internet access for Rs 40 per hour. Log Inn, in the Hotel Aurora Tower on MG Rd.
Travel Agencies
Sunder Travel Shoppe (631-848; fax 631-534), Sunder Plaza, 19 MG Rd, is a good travel agency. They are also the Pune American Express representative and change travelers cheques (Mon to Sat 10 am to 6.30 pm). Established travel agencies: Apple Travels (628-189) in the Amir Hotel, Connaught Rd; Star Line Travels (622-189), Darshan Apts, next to the Woodlands Hotel.
A really efficient place is Rokshan Travels (2613-6304; Email: rokshant.rvls@hotmail.com), 9 Kumar Plaza, 8 MG Rd is a helpful efficent place that arranges flights, bus, train and taxis. Hours: Daily 10am-6pm.
Bookshops
Good bookshops: Word Bookshop, 899 Boottee St, near the Railway Booking Office; Manneys Booksellers, Clover Centre, 7 Moledina Rd, near MG Rd (daily 9 am to 1 pm and 4 to 8 pm); and Modern Bookshop, Gen Thimmaya Rd (Mon to Sat 9 am to 1 pm and 4 to 8 pm).
Gandhi National Memorial
Gandhi was imprisoned here in 1942 after giving his famous “Quit India” speech in Mumbai. Other leaders of the India Independence movement were also imprisoned here. Gandhi was held for almost two years.
This place was built in 1892 by Muhammad Shah Aga Khan III and became the palace of the Aga Khan. It was given by Aga Khan IV to be used as a memorial to Gandhi in 1969.
Gandhi’s wife, Kasturba Gandhi, died here while interned, as did his secretary of thirty-five years, Mahadoebhai Desai. Their memorials are in the garden.
Some of Mahatma Gandhi’s personal processions are found here, including his sandals. There is photo exhibit showing his activities.
This place is across the river in Yeravda and is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm. Admission Rs 2. The Pune City bus tour stops here for half an hour. Local buses #1, #156, and #158 come here.
Parvati Hill and Temple
From Parvati Hill there is a good view of the surrounding area. The last Peshwa ruler is said to have watched from here as the British defeated his army. There is a temple dedicated to Ganesh and Parvati, the wife of Siva.
Raja Kelkar Museum
This excellent museum (2448-2101; Web Site: http://www.rajakelkarmuseum.com, 1377-78 Natu Baug, Bajrao, is the personal collection of Sri Dinkar Gangadhar (also known as Kaka Kelkar). It contains over 15,000 items, including musical instruments, miniatures, large detailed carved doors, and oil lamps. It is worth a visit.
Open daily 8.30 am to 12.30 pm and 3 to 6 pm. Admission Rs 10 for Indians, Rs 150 for foreigners. Visitors can hire a guide. The MTDC City tour bus stops here for a short visit. From the railway station, buses #72 and #74 go to City Market near here.
Pataleshwara Temple
This is a rock-carved temple dating from the 8th century. It is also called Panchalesvara Cave. There is active worship in this temple. It is on Jangali Maharaja Rd, across the river.
Nearby is the Jangali Maharaja temple, dedicated to a Hindu holy man who died in 1818.
Shaniwar Wada Palace
This is what is left of the palace of the Peshwa rulers. It was built in 1736 and burned down in 1828. The massive stone walls surrounding the palace still remain, but not much else. There is a peaceful garden inside the walls and signs telling visitors what rooms were located where. The entrance has doors with spikes on them to protect against elephant attacks. Open daily 8 am to 6.30 pm. Admission: Indians Rs 3, Foreigners US$2. Considering that you can see what is left of the place in less than a minute it is a total rip-off. It really isn't such a good value at the Indian price of Rs 3.
Tribal Museum
This is a small, interesting museum (2636-2071) located about 1km east of the railway station at 28 Queens Garden, Richardson Rd. It has exhibits pertaining to the different Maharashtrian tribal communities. Open Mon to Fri 10 am to 5 pm. The Pune City tour does not stop here. Admssions foreigners Rs 10
Gardens
The Bund Gardens, next to the river, is a popular place in the evening to take a walk. The Express Botanical Gardens is also nice. There is a zoo nearby. In Peshwa Park is the Saras Baug Ganesh Temple.
Osho Commune International (formally Rajneesh Ashram)
Bhagwan Rajneesh (Osho) established the Osho Commune. Rajneesh died on January 19, 1990, but the Commune is still popular and attracts thousands of people. (Phone 2401-9999; fax: 2410-9990; Email: visitor@osho.net, 17 Koregaon Park.
There are two guided tours daily, each of which last one hour, at 10.30 am and 2.30 pm. The tour consists of a fifteen-minute walk through part of the complex, a video of Rajneesh, and a question and answer period. The Visitor Center is open daily 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and 1.30 to 4 pm. The Welcome center, where entry coupons are purchased, is open 7 am to 5 pm. If you want to stay longer you are required to take an AIDS test (Rs 250). Those who take the test in the morning receive the results by 4 pm the same day. You also need two passport photos, which can be taken at the ashram.
The entrance fee is Rs 250 daily for foreigners. To take part in the activities and to enter the restaurants in the Commune, visitors must wear maroon robes during the day. After 6.30 pm they are expected to wear white robes. The admission fee enables guests to partake in daily meditations at the main Buddha Hall. Money is not used in the ashram. Rather, visitors purchase a coupon book at the entrance and whatever they need is deducted from it.
Besides the daily meditations in the Buddha Hall there are other activities in the Commune in which one can participate for a fee. The gates open at 5.30 am for Dynamic Meditation. Other activities include: dance, prana healing, painting, Tai Chi, and channeling.
There is a large pool, tennis courts, sauna, jacuzzi, health club, and other sports facilities. Visitors must wear maroon sportswear. On the ashram’s property is the beautiful twelve-acre Zen garden.
The main activity of the day is the nightly Osho White Robe Brotherhood, which takes place in the Buddha Hall. The white robes are supposed to be worn only for this purpose. This meeting begins with high-energy music for ten minutes, then ten minutes of silent closed-eye meditation. Then there is a video of one of Osho’s talks. No one is permitted to enter or to leave the property until the meeting is over.
The restaurants here are excellent, some of the best in India. Only vegetarian food is served. The Mariam Restaurant is a cafeteria-style place with a good selection of items. Many of the vegetables are organically grown. There is a bank for changing money and a post office on the grounds. The bookshop is open from 9.15 am to 3.45 pm (613-6655; e-mail:cc.osho@oci.sprintrpg, eme.vsnl.net.in), 17 Koregaon Park, 2km east of the railway station.
Iyengar Yoga Institute
BKS Iyengar, whose The Illustrated Light on Yoga, is one of the famous books on hatha-yoga, teaches along with his son and daughter classes on asana and pranayama here. There is a three year waiting list to study yoga here and you need to have taken at least one years lessons in the Iyengar yoga classes. You have to apply in writing. You can take either a one or two month course. There is a celebration here yearly on December 14, the birthday of Iyengar.
The address is Ramamani Iyengar Yoga Institute (356-134), 1107 B/1 Shivajinagar, Pune 411 016.
Festivals
At the opening day of the Pune Festival, some of the best musicians and dancers in India perform. It is held in late August or early September. During the festival there are music and dance concerts, folk music performances, and various other events.
The Ganesh Chaturthi festival is an eleven-day festival held in Aug-Sept. On the eleventh day, clay statues of Ganesh, some 6m (20 ft) high, are taken in a procession and immersed in the river. This is a popular festival. There are classical music and dance performances by some the best performers in India held at this time. MTDC helps organize the event, and they can help you book accommodations.
Where to Stay—Lower
There are several lower priced hotels in the Wilson Garden area, opposite the railway station, behind the National Hotel, across from the railway station.
Hotel Alankar (620-484), Wilson Gardens, has rooms for Rs 350/400. 24-hour checkout.
Milan Lodge (622-024), 6A Tadiwala Rd, Wilson Gardens, has rooms with common bath for Rs 200/250 and Rs 300/350 for a room with a bathroom.
Hotel Homeland, Wilson Gardens, has clean rooms for Rs 350/450 and better rooms with A/C and TV for Rs 650/750. There is hot water in the morning. 24-hour checkout.
National Hotel (2612-5054), 14 Sassoon Rd, directly opposite the main entrance of the railway station, is an old, run-down mansion with good-sized verandahs, a small garden, and rooms with high ceilings. It is popular. There are ten quiet cottages with attached bathrooms in the back for Rs 600. A single with common bath and no windows is Rs 400. A good-sized, very clean room with bath is Rs 500. The cheaper singles are cramped. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Shalimar (629-191; fax 629-595), 612-A Connaught Rd, has rooms for Rs 360/520.
Hotel Jinna Mansion (667-158), Wilson Gardens, is a popular place with clean rooms and good bathrooms. There is hot water from 7 to 9.30 am.
Grand Hotel (2636-0728), MG Rd, north of Moledina Rd, is an older place on its own grounds with smelly partitioned rooms for Rs 250 and larger double rooms Rs 550. The rooms are clean but run-down. Hot water available in the morning.
Hotel Avanti (445-975), near the Swargate bus station, is a good value with clean rooms and hot water.
MTDC Hotel Saras (430-499), near the Swargate bus station, has decent rooms for Rs 300/350.
The railway Retiring Rooms are good.
Places To Stay—Middle
Hotel Woodland (626-161; fax 623-131), off Sadhu Vaswani Circle, has a selection of nice, well-maintained rooms with hot water and cable TV starting at Rs 1450/1600 and going up to Rs 2200 for a suite. It has a good vegetarian restaurant. Recommended, but often full.
Ritz Hotel (2612-2995; fax: 2613-6191), 15 Connaught Rd, which is to the left as you come out of the station and down the first main road on the right. It has large, clean, rooms for Rs 700/900.
Hotel Gulmohr’s (622-773; fax 624-672), 15 A/1 Connaught Rd, close to the railway station, has rooms with hot water and cable TV for Rs 350/550 and Rs 700/1000 with A/C.
Hotel Ashirwad (628-585; fax 626-121), 16 Connaught Rd, has large rooms with a balcony, TV, and hot water for Rs 800/900 and Rs 1100/1400 with A/C. It has a vegetarian restaurant serving good thalis.
Hotel Amir (621-840; fax 623-094), 15 Connaught Rd, has rooms with cable TV and hot water for Rs 895/1150 and Rs 1295/1545 for a deluxe room. It is a popular place with a health club and exchange facility. As the rooms are different, it is best to see a few.
Where to Stay—High
Hotel Sagar Plaza (622-622; fax 622-633), 1 Bund Garden Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 2800/3200 to Rs 3200/3500, which includes a buffet breakfast. It has a small pool and a bookshop.
Aurora Towers (2613-1818; fax 2613-1826: email: hotelaurora@usa.net), 9 Moledina Rd, is centrally air-conditioned and has a pool. Rooms start at Rs 3600/4200. It is a well-managed, nice place.
The five-star Pride Executive (533-4567; fax 553-3228), 5 University Rd, is a good place with clean comfortable rooms for Rs 1595/1895. It has many facilities.
Hotel Executive Ashoka (357-381; fax 57391), 5 University Rd, Sivajinagar, has rooms for Rs 3500. It is close to the university.
Holiday Inn (637-777; fax 634-747), 20 Bund Garden, has comfortable rooms for Rs 5000/5500.
Where to Stay—Near Osho Commune
If you are coming to stay at the Osho Commune International, you can stay either in a hotel, a room in someone’s apartment, or a house or your own apartment. There are no accommodations in the Commune itself. Hotels in the area are costly and are often full. When you first arrive, it is probably best to get a hotel near the railway station or to reserve a hotel near the Commune in advance and then find a more permanent location the next day. There is a detailed list of hotels in the area at the Commune’s Welcome Center.
To find a room in an apartment or your own apartment, you can go to the German Bakery and ask in the area. Also if you stand on the street outside the bakery, several people wanting to show you a room will approach you. Rooms in an apartment go for Rs 150 to Rs 300 per day depending on the quality and how long you plan to stay. Apartments close to the Commune usually cost Rs 5,000 to more than Rs 15,000 per month.
Where to Stay—Koregaon Park
This is where the Osho Commune is located.
Hotel Surya Villa (624-501; fax 639-186), 294/1 Koregaon Park, has rooms for Rs 750/850.
Hotel Gulmohar Jupiter (632-199; fax 644-913), 285 Koregaon Rd, has rooms for Rs 800.
Happy Home (622-933), 294 Koregaon Park, has flats and rooms for rent.
Hotel Sunderban (2612-4949; fax 2612-3535), 19 Koregaon Park, next to the Osho Commune, has rooms with common bath for $22 up to a deluxe room with bath for $55. It has a good-sized, well-maintained garden. Rates are lower between May and September.
The five-star Blue Diamond Hotel (625-555; fax 627-755), 11 Koregaon Rd, is a modern place, 2km northeast of the railway station. It has a pool, a health club, and 24-hour checkout. Rooms are Rs 4500/5000 and Rs 5300/5800 for a deluxe room. It serves a buffet lunch and is often full.
Where to Eat
Sagar Restaurant, corner of Connaught Rd and Sassoon Rd, across from the railway station, serves good vegetarian meals for about Rs 30. The service is quick.
Nearby, Hotel Neelam and Hotel Preetam have Indian and Western food.
Shabree (321-551), Hotel Parichay, Fergusson College Rd, (11 am to 3 pm and 7 to 11 pm) has unlimited Maharashtrian thalis at a reasonable price.
Hotel Woodland, Sadhu Vaswant Circle, has a good vegetarian restaurant. A meal cost about Rs 100. Recommended.
Domino’s Pizza (633-022), Grafikon Arcade, Sassoon Rd, delivers within the local area. American chain, pizzas are like in the West. Prices start at Rs 110.
Shri Krishna Palace, Wilson Gardens near the railway station, is a busy, economical South Indian place.
Vandana Hotel, opposite Sambhaji Park, and the Dreamland Hotel, 2/14 Connaught Rd, opposite the railway station, have vegetarian restaurants.
There is a group of small sidewalk restaurants just south of the GPO, which is a popular place for fresh fruit juice and snacks.
Siddarths, Moledina Rd, is a vegetarian place serving Chinese and North Indian food outside.
Prems is an outdoor place with good Indian and Western food.
Kabir’s, Moledina Rd, near the junction with MG Rd, is a popular place serving Indian and vegetarian pizzas and burgers.
Kohinoor Restauran t, MG Rd, has cheap vegetarian thalis.
The Place: Touché the Sizzler, Moledina Rd, is a high-class place serving Indian and Continental food.
Sangamitra is a nice place with good Western food (high-priced).
Where to Eat—Koregaon Park
The restaurants at the Osho Commune are excellent and are some of the best places in India to eat. They are all pure vegetarian and often use organic vegetable that they have grown themselves. The strictest hygiene is maintained.
The German Bakery, North Koregaon Park Rd, (7 am to 11.30 pm) sells cinnamon rolls, cakes, fresh juices, sandwiches, cappuccino, and other items. If you are leaving the ashram, make a right and walk to the end of the road. Turn left and the bakery is immediately on your right. This is a good place to meet people.
Zen Restaurant, upstairs next to the German Bakery, is also popular.
There is a Baskin Robbins down the street from the German Bakery in the Hotel Surya Villa.
Hotel Sunderban, 19 Koregaon Park, next to Osho Commune, has a vegetarian restaurant.
Shriman serves good pizza, salad, pasta, and has a pleasant atmosphere.
Getting Around
The #4 bus goes from the Railway bus stand to Swargate via the Shivaji Nagar bus station. The Marathi #4 looks like an eight with a gap at the top.
About half the auto rickshaw drivers will use their meter. The ones who refuse to use the meter will usually ask for double the metered price.
You can rent a bicycle by the entrance of the National Hotel. Riding a bicycle in Pune can be dangerous.
Travel
Air There are daily flights to Delhi and Mumbai, and four flights a week to Bangalore and Chennai.
The Indian Airlines office (140 or141; Airport 689-433) Ambedkar Rd. Air India (2612-8190), Hermes Kunj, 4 Mangaldas Rd; Jet Airways (2613-7181) 243 Centruy Arcade, Naurangi Baug Rd;.
There are flights to Ahmedabad (daily, $160), Bangalore (daily, $175), Calcutta (3 weekly, $300), Chennai (daily, $200), Delhi (2 daily, $240), Hyderabad (3 weekly, $200) and Mumbai (2 daily, $100).
There is a bus (Rs 25) into town operated by Indian Airlines (8km). It departs from Hotel Amir to the airport (667-538). An auto-rickshaw is Rs 50 and taxi Rs 100.
Train Because many of the trains going to and from Mumbai stop here, Pune is a busy station. There are many trains daily to Mumbai. For information, call the railway station at 626-575.
Good trains to Mumbai (3½ to 4½ hr) are the Shatabdi Exp #2028 (5.35 am, 3½ hr) Deccan Queen Express (7.15 am), Pragati Express (7.45 am), and Sahyadri Express (7.55 am). Some of the trains going to Mumbai stop at Dadar station. The express trains should be booked at least one day before departure at the Mumbai reservation windows to the left of the entrance. The express trains take 3½ hr; other local trains take 4½ to 5 hours.
There are daily trains to New Delhi, Bangalore (31 hr), Chennai (40 hr), Hyderabad, and Thiruvananthapuram. The Sahyadri Express (10.42 pm) and the Udyan Express (12.10 pm) are two good trains heading southeast. The daily Goa Express #2702 (3 pm) goes to Vasco da Gama via Miraj.
If you are going to Matheran, the Sahyadri Express (7.35 am) is the only express train that stops in Neral.
Bangalore Udyan Exp #6529 (7.55 am, 24½ hr); Chennai Mumbai-Chennai Exp #6011 (2 pm, 27 hr), Chennai Exp #1063 (7.50 pm, 24 hr); Delhi Jhelum Exp #1077 (5.35, 27¾ hr); Hyderabad Mumbai-Hyderabad Exp #7031 (12.35 pm, 17½ hr).
If you just entered the railway station complex, the computerized booking office is to the left, upstairs. Go to counter 1 and request a reservation slip and information on where to purchase the ticket. Reserved tickets to Mumbai are purchased downstairs.
To purchase a tourist quota ticket, buy the train ticket first. If you get a reserved seat on the train, great. If you buy a ticket and you are put on a waiting list, you then proceed to use the tourist quota. You do this by taking the ticket you purchased to the supervisor in the Office of Divisional Railway Management building, located directly to the right of the main building. The supervisor is helpful, and he will access the tourist quota for you.
Bus There are three bus stations in Pune. From the bus stand next to the railway station (2612-6218), buses depart to points south, such as Mahabaleswara (3 hr), Goa (15 hr), and Kolhapur. Asiad deluxe buses to Mumbai (4 hr) depart every thirty minutes. They should be booked in advance.
Buses depart from the Shivaji Nagar bus stand (2553-6970) to points north and northeast. There are regular buses to Aurangabad (6 hr). There are also buses to Nasik (20 a day), Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Lonavla, and Nagpur.
From the Swargate bus stand (2333-1591buses depart to Mumbai, Bangalore, Mahabaleswara, Solapur, Mangalore, and places in Karnataka.
The MTDC operates a deluxe bus to Mahabaleswara. They can be reserved at the tourist information counter at the railway station.
Bright Travels (2613-9666), Connaught Rd, in the Bharat Petrol Station, operates private luxury buses to Bangalore, Hyderabad, Aurangabad, Ahmedabad, Mangalore, and Goa. They seem trustworthy. It is a five-minute walk from the railway station. Karan Travels (663-850), 7 Konark Park, operates buses to Indore, Ahmedabad, Vadodara, and Goa.
Be careful of agents by the railway station who may charge a fifty-percent commission on a bus ticket, promising a deluxe bus and then they put you on a regular state bus.
Taxi You can take a shared-taxi from Dadar station in Mumbai to Pune. From Pune taxis depart from the taxi stand (2411-4040) in front of the railway station (Rs 200 per person). You can also take a shared taxi from Shivaji Nagar railway station to Nasik (Rs 350 and Aurangabad (Rs 350).
Pandhapur
Pop: 80,000
Pandharpur is known as Bhu-Vaikuntha, the spiritual world on earth. It is also called Dakshina Dwarka, the Dwarka of the south. It is located on the western bank of the Bhima River, locally called the Chandrabhaga (crescent moon).
Vitthala Temple
Sri Vitthala is a form of Lord Krishna. The Deity is also called Vithobha or Panduranga. The Deity is a 5,000-year-old self-manifest Deity. Parts of the temple date to the 12th and 13th century, but most of the temple was built in the 17th century and later.
According to Maharashtrian tradition, when Lord Krishna was performing his Dwarka pastimes, he came to Maharashtra upon the request of his devotee Pundalika. When the Lord arrived, Pundalika was so busily engaged serving his parents that he asked the Lord to wait on the top of a brick platform. Thus the Lord is named Vitthala, “one who stands on a brick” (in a waiting posture).
Deity Story
The Padma Purana and Skanda Purana explain why Lord Krishna went to Pandharpur and why he stays there in this form. Once, Srimati Radharani, Lord Krishna’s consort in Vrindavan, visited Dwarka. At that time, Rukmini Devi, Lord Krishna’s queen, noticed that Krishna was dealing more intimately with Radharani than he had ever been with her. Upset, she departed for the forest of Dindirvana, near Pandharpur.
Lord Krishna followed Rukmini to apologize, but his apology left her unmoved. Then the Lord moved on to Pandharpur to visit one of his devotees, Bhakta Pundarika (also known as Pundalika). When the Lord reached Pundarika’s ashram, Pundarika was serving his elderly parents. Pundarika presented the Lord with a brick upon which to stand and asked the Lord to please wait. The Lord did as he was requested. He stood, hands on his hips, waiting for Pundarika to return.
While he was waiting, Rukmini, having forgotten her distress, came from Dindirvana and rejoined him. Both of them stayed in Pandharpur in Deity forms. To this day the Lord stands on that brick.
Pundalika Temple
The Pundalika Temple is about half a km from the Vitthala Temple. This temple marks the spot where Pundalika, the Lord’s devotee, spent the last years of his life. It is on the riverbank.
Vishnupada Temple
The Vishnupada Temple is about 1km south of the Pundalika temple. In the middle of the temple is a square 1.5m by 1.5m. There are three rocks in this square that have been imprinted with Krishna’s and a cow’s footprints. On the first day of the month of Margashirsha, Lord Vitthala’s sandals are taken to this temple. On the last day of the same month, Lord Vitthala’s chariot is brought to the temple in a grand procession.
Dindi
Every year for the past 700 years, anywhere from 200,000 to 300,000 devotees of Lord Vitthala (Lord Krishna) go on a walking pilgrimage from Alandi (Pune area) to Pandharpur (230km away). Although the main procession comes from Alandi, other processions come from all over Maharashtra. They begin their journey eighteen days before Sayani Ekadasi.
The devotees reach Pandharpur in time for the Sayana Ekadasi Festival, which draws a total crowd of 700,000 people. It falls during the month of Asadha (July-Aug) and marks the beginning of Caturmasya. According to the Padma Purana, the Lord goes to sleep for four months on that day.
About 700 years ago, a devotee of Lord Vitthala named Jnaneswara appeared in Maharashtra. At sixteen, he became famous for writing Bhagavad-gita purports so simple that common people (farmers, merchants, etc.) could understand them. Out of his love for the Lord, he began this walking pilgrimage, which has been performed every year since without fail.
Tukurama, another great devotee of the Lord, became popular in Maharashtra and attended Dindi every year. He lived during 16th century and was initiated by Lord Chaitanya when the Lord visited Pandharpur.
When Dindi arrives in Pandharpur, the lines to see Lord Vitthala are 5km long. During this time, pilgrims can view the Deity for only a few seconds before the next person steps forward.
Practicalities
The MTDC Guest House has rooms for Rs 150 and dorm beds for Rs 50.
Pandharpur is located 386km southeast of Mumbai. The nearest airport is 204km away at Pune. It is on the Kurduwadi-Miraj line of the South Central Railway. A convenient train junction for trains on a broad-gauge line is Solapur, 74km away.
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