Budget hotels in Madhya Pradesh

Madhya Pradesh

Population: 80 million
Capital: Bhopal
Area: 443,000 sq km
Best Time to Visit: September to February
Language: Hindi
Literacy Rate: 43%

Madhya Pradesh is right in the middle of India. In Hindi, Madhya Pradesh means “Middle State.” Madhya Pradesh is the largest state according to area, but much of the state is dry and can be extremely hot in the summer. The old name for Madhya Pradesh was Malwa.

The most popular tourist site in the state is the temples at Khajuraho in the isolated north. Madhya Pradesh has the largest tiger population in India, and Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Park are the best places to visit if you wish to see them. Jabalpur, known for its marble rocks, is in the center of the state. There are ten-thousand-year-old cave paintings in Bhimbetka, south of Bhopal.

Mandu and Orchha are interesting, deserted cities. It is convenient to visit Orchha while going to or from Khajuraho by bus, if one is passing through Jhansi. Gwalior has one of the largest and most interesting forts in India. Other places of interest are Sanchi, with its Buddhist monuments, Ujjain, an important Hindu holy place, Bhopal, and Indore.

It is best to visit Madhya Pradesh from November to February when the weather is pleasant during the day and cool at night. April to June see desert-like heat, with temperatures rising above 40ºC (104ºF). This is a good time to visit the national parks, because during the dry season, the animals come out of the jungles to find water.

History
For years Buddhist and Hindu dynasties ruled Madhya Pradesh. Ashoka, the emperor of the Mauryan Empire, ruled Madhya Pradesh, then known as Malwa. He built many of the Buddhist monuments at Sanchi. The area was then ruled by the Sungas, and then the Guptas. The Parmaras ruled what is now southwest Madhya Pradesh about 1,000 years ago. Bhopal was named after one of their rulers, Raja Bhoj. The Chandela dynasty, who ruled the northern part of Madhya Pradesh, built the impressive temples in Khajuraho between 950 and 1050.

Beginning in the 12th century, Muslim invaders began to come to Madhya Pradesh. Eventually, the Mughals gained control of a good part of the state. Later, the Marathas, starting in the 18th century, took control from the Mughal emperors. The British eventually took control of a good part of the state and ruled either directly or through different maharajas until Independence.

Shivpuri
Population: 150,000
Phone Code; 07492

Shivpuri, 115km southwest of Gwalior, was the Scindias’ former summer capital.

Located here are the Royal Chhatris (tombs), built as memorials to the Scindia rulers. They have Mughal architecture and sikharas (towers). The chhatri of Maharani Raje Scindia has a water tank in front of it. Her son Madho Rao Scindia’s chhatri has detailed carvings on the walls inlaid with onyx and lapis lazuli.

Nearby Madhav National Park is home to deer, sambar, chinkara, cheetal, nilgai, and chowsingha. There is a tiger safari (but the tigers are in a caged area), and an artificial lake for crocodiles, which also draws many species of birds. It is difficult to visit this place without a private vehicle. Admission Rs 150; camera Rs 25; video Rs 100. Vehicle rental is Rs 500 per day.

Practicalities
There are several places to stay in Shivpuri.
Harish Lodge on the main road has rooms for Rs 150/200. It has a restaurant.
MPTDC Chinkara Motel (07492 31297) has rooms for Rs 400/500.
MPTDC Tourist Village (07492 233760; fax 340-371), near Bhadaiya Kund, 3km from town, has comfortable rooms for Rs 650/750 and Rs 850/950 with A/C. Best to reserve the MPTDC places several days in advance at a Madhya Pradesh tourist office.

There are buses to Shivpuri from Jhansi (85km east) and Gwalior (2 hr).

Between Gwalior and Jhansi

Sonagiri
There are several modern Jain temples about 60km south of Gwalior near xe "Sonagiri" Sonagiri. It is said that King Nangannang Kumar attained liberation here along with his followers. This place is sacred to the Digambar (“Sky-clad”) Jains. There are no hotel-type accommodations here, but you may be allowed to stay in a Jain dharamshala.

Datia
Datia, 25km north of Jhansi, has an empty palace that is worth seeing. It is impressive architecturally and has nice murals painted on the walls. This is the old palace of Raj Bir Singh Deo. The Palace also has sculptures and a good view from the top.

Also, the Bharat Garh Fort and the Karna Sagar Tank, with its ghats, ruined temples, and surrounding chhatris is located here. Raj Garh Palace, on top of a hill, has an uninteresting museum, but an interesting view.

Datia is on the main Delhi-Mumbai railway line. The station is 2km from town. You can stop here on your way between Gwalior (70km northwest) and Jhansi. There are no accommodations and only basic restaurants.

Satna
Pop: 220,000
Phone Code: 07672

One may pass through xe "Satna" Satna on the way to or from Khajuraho. Other than that, there is nothing in the town to see or do. There is a Tourist Office in the Hotel Bharhut.

Where to Stay
Hotel India (251012), by the bus stand, is a good budget place with rooms with bath for Rs 125/200. It has a good cheap restaurant. Hotel Park (23017), 1½ km from the railway station, has clean rooms for Rs 120/175 and Rs 550 with A/C. It has a veg restaurant.
MP Tourism’s Hotel Bharhut (22071) is a clean place with rooms for Rs 290/340 and Rs 400/500 with A/C.
Hotel Chanakya (25026), near the railway station, has rooms for Rs 350/400 and Rs 500/600 with A/C.
Saloni Restaurant, Rewa Rd, across from the bus stand, is a good A/C veg restaurant. Hotel Savera is a good restaurant, but is not cheap.

Travel

Train The railway and bus stations are about 2km from one another. Rickshaws charge Rs 7, auto-rickshaws Rs 15. There are trains to Varanasi (7 to 8 hr, five daily), Allahabad (4 hr), Mumbai, Jabalpur, Lucknow, Calcutta, and Chennai.

Bus There are 6 am, 10 am, 2.30 pm, and 3.30 pm buses to Khajuraho. There is a morning bus to Tala (4 hr, 8 am) for Bandhavgarh National Park. There are three buses a day to Citrakoot and a morning bus to Amarkantak.

Maheshwar
This town, 91km southwest of Indore, is mentioned in the Mahabharata and Ramayana under its former name, Mahishmati. There is a fort and many temples located here. The fort contains a museum with an exhibit of items belonging to the Holkar dynasty. There are also bathing ghats along the Narmada River.

This place is often included in a tour from Indore to Mandu. There is a direct bus to here from Indore (3½ hr) at 2 pm You can also take a bus from Indore to Barwaha (73km) or Dhamnod, then take another bus to Maheshwar (45km).

The only accommodations are in basic dharamshalas.

Dhar
Dhar, 32km from Mandu and 65km west of Indore, was the capital of Malwa before Mandu became the capital in 1405. The fort here is in ruins. There is a good view from the fort’s walls. The Bhojashala Mosque (1400), a ten-minute walk west from the bus stand, is still used as a place of worship on Fridays. Also here is the abandoned Lat Masjid (1405) and the Tomb of Kamal Maula, a Muslim saint. Dhar can be visited while going to or from Mandu. It is possible to leave your luggage at the conductor’s office at the bus stand while visiting the sites.

Bagh Caves
Bagh Caves, 50km west of Mandu on the road between Indore and Vadodara, are Buddhist caves dating from between 400 and 700 AD. The caves are 6km from the village of Bagh. The caves are not in such good condition.

There is the PWD Dak Bungalow here.

Bhimbetka
Located in Bhimbetka, 45km south of Bhopal, are about 1,000 caves containing ancient paintings depicting the lives of the people of that time. The oldest paintings date back 12,000 years, and they are remarkably well preserved. They depict hunting scenes, animals, religious activities, dancing, and burials. It is best to bring drinking water and maybe a snack; as there is no place to eat near the caves.

Some of the paintings are over 10m (33 ft) long. The main colors are red and white, along with some green and yellow. The main site has been fenced off. Archaeological Survey of India guides bring people around to ten caves, which take about an hour.

Travel
To get here from Bhopal, you first take a bus to Hoshangabad or Itarsi, an hour south of Bhopal, and from there take the bus to Obaidullaganj. Get off about 6km past the town of Obaidullaganj, where there is sign in Hindi along with the number “3.2,” the distance to the cave. Ask the bus conductor to let you down at the correct place.

Follow the "Sanchi" sign to the right for 3.2km (about 45 min) to the hill with the paintings. It can be difficult to flag down a bus back to Bhopal from here. You can also go to Obaidullaganj and then take a rickshaw or rent a bicycle to get to the caves. A taxi from Bhopal costs about Rs 800 return.

Bhojpur
Located in Bhojpur, 29km southeast of Bhopal, is the large Bhojeswar Temple, which has a dome. The Siva-linga here is 2.3m (7.5 ft) tall and 5.5m (18 ft) in circumference (the biggest in India). The temple was never completed. Still remaining, is the earth ramp used to bring large stones to the top of the tower over the temple. Located around the temple are the masons’ marks that were normally erased when construction of a temple was completed.

Nearby is an unfinished Jain temple containing a large, 6m (29 ft) tall statue of Mahavir.

Vidisha
Pop: 110,000

Ashoka governed "Vidisha" disha in the 3rd century BC before he became emperor and his wife was born here. At that time it was the largest town in the area. There is a museum near the railway station exhibiting finds from the local area (open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm; Admission Rs 3).

You can get here by train or bus from Bhopal (55km), or by bus from Sanchi (Rs 5). From Sanchi, you can take a tonga, auto-rickshaw (Rs 30), or bike. You can hire a taxi from Bhopal to go to Sanchi, Videsha, and the Udaigiri Caves for around Rs 750.

Vidisha is the closest main railway station to Sanchi (10km south).

Udaigiri Caves
Located at Udaigiri, 6km west of Vidisha, are about twenty Gupta rock-cut cave shrines, dating from 320-600 AD. Two caves are Jain and the rest are Hindu. Cave 20 contains intricate Jain carvings. Cave 5 has an outstanding carving of a 4m tall Varaha, Lord Vishnu’s boar incarnation. On either side of this carving are the two river goddesses, Yamuna and Ganga. There is also a sculpture of a reclining Vishnu. Cave 9 contains 2.5m tall pillars in its hall.

To get here, you can take a bus to Vidisha, and from there a tonga or auto-rickshaw (Rs 75, including waiting time). You can also come here by bike from Sanchi (1½ hr ride) or Vidisha. After you pass the Betwa River, turn left to Udaigiri.

Heliodorus Pillar
This pillar, located between Vidisha (3km) and Udaigiri, was erected in 113 BC by Heliodorus, a Greek ambassador from Taxila (now in northwest Pakistan). It honors his conversion to Hinduism. It is dedicated to Krishna’s father, Vasudeva. On top of the pillar used to be Garuda, the bird carrier of Vishnu. It can be visited on the way to Udaigiri.

Udayapur
The large, red sandstone Neekantheswara Temple (11th century) has impressive carvings. The temple is built in such a way that the first rays of the sun shine on the Siva-linga. It is a good example of Indo-Aryan architecture.

Udayapur is 90km north of Sanchi. The closest railway station is in Basoda (9km). From there, you can take a local bus.

Gyaraspur
Located at this place, 50km northeast of Sanchi, are temples, a fort, and some tanks—all dating from the 9th and 10th centuries AD. The 10th century Mahadevi Temple is interesting. It is an hour’s ride from Vidisha (35km northeast). Best to come here by taxi.

Raisen
Located in Raisen, 24km south of Sanchi and 14km northwest of Bhopal, there is a Malwa Fort (1200 AD) containing the ruins of several temples, three palaces, wells, cannons, and a large tank. There are also nearby cave paintings. Visitors can stop here on their way from Bhopal to Sanchi. Best to get off the bus at the “S & M Convent School,” (1km from town), which is next to the path leading to the site. The site is a fifteen-minute climb up the hill. Bring your own bottled water, as there is none in town.

Pachmarhi
Pop: 12,000
Phone Code: 07578

Pachmarhi is a peaceful hill station located about 200km southeast of Bhopal at an altitude of 1065m (3514 ft). There is a good view from the hilltop. Priyadarshini Point is the best place from which to see the surrounding countryside.

There is a big festival here at the Mahadeo Siva Temple (10km south) during Siva-ratri (Feb-March), attended by over 100,000 people.

There are also interesting cave paintings in the Mahadeo Hills—in Pachmarhi, Jalia, and Tamia.

This is a good area in which to take a walk. As some of the walks start well outside of town, a bike could be useful to reach the beginning. Rajat Pratap, a 110m waterfalls, is a nice walk from the town. Duchess Falls is one of the nicest falls in the area. It is a hard walk to reach it. Apsara Vihar is a pond, which is a nice place to visit.

Where to Stay and Eat
The high season is April to June and Dec to Jan. During the off-season, visitors can bargain for lower prices.
Hotel Natraj (52151), across from the bus stand, has double rooms for Rs 225.
New Hotel (522017), Mahadeo Rd, 4km from town, has rooms for Rs 50 and better rooms for Rs 500. It has a decent restaurant.
Saket (52165), Patel Marg, near the State Bank, has inexpensive, clean rooms with bath.
Holiday Homes (252099), 2km from the center of town, has double rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 450. It is a friendly place.
Nandanvan Cottages (52018) has rooms for Rs 400 and Rs 500 for a deluxe room.
Nilamber Cottages (252039) has good rooms with TV, an air-cooler, and a bath with hot water for Rs 950. It is on a hill, so there is a good view.
Panchvati Huts and Cottage (52079) has large rooms for Rs 650. The restaurant is good. It is well-managed and in a good location.
Amaltas (52098) is a colonial building with rooms with bath for Rs 550/600.
Saptura Retreat (252097) is a colonial house in a peaceful location with a large verandah. It has comfortable rooms for Rs 1750/2100 and Rs 1000/1100 with A/C.
Rock End Manor (252079) used to belong to a maharaja. There are luxury rooms with a great view for Rs 2000/2400. It has a good restaurant. It is by far the best place in town.
Mahfil Restaurant, near the bus stand, has good dosas and snacks.

Travel
There are buses to Bhopal (three daily), Pipariya (1½ hr), Indore, and Nagpur.

You can hire a shared jeep to Pipariya (Rs 50 per person, Rs 300 for the entire jeep).

Pipariya
Population: 4500
Phone Code: 07576

The nearest railway station to Pachmarhi is located here. It is on the Jabalpur-Mumbai railway line. A bus to Bhopal from here takes 6½ hours.

The MP Tourism’s Tourist Motel (222299) has rooms for Rs 225, and a restaurant.

Bilaspur
Pop: 275 ,000
Phone Code: 07752

You may have to come here while traveling to Kanha National Park.

Natraj Hotel, (45451), near the bus stand, has rooms for Rs 250/300 to Rs 600/700 with A/C.
Hotel Centrepoint (24004), Anand Marg, has good rooms for Rs 350/400.
Hotel Chandrika has rooms for Rs 150/200 and Rs 500/600 with A/C.

There are trains to Jabalpur, Sambalpur, Puri, and Calcutta. The railway station is 3km from the center of town.

Bhoramdeo
Located here is an 11th century Siva temple that is covered with carvings. Many of the carving are erotic like in Khajuraho. There is still active worship in the temple. There are two other ancient temples in the area, Madan Manjari Mahal and Mandwa Mahal. Bhoramdeo is 120km east of Kisli (Kanha).

Kawardha
Located here, 21km south of Bhoramdeo, is the palace of the Maharaja of Kawardha, part of which is now a hotel. The palace was built in 1939.

Palace Kawardha (07741 32085; fax 32088), is a pleasant place to stay costing $108 per person, which includes meals and a jeep excursion. Meals are taken with the ex-maharaja. It is open from October to the end of April. You can write for reservations at Palace Kawardha, Kawardha, District Rajnandgaon, MP 491 995.
Bandhavgarh National Park

Bandhavgarh National Park, 197km northeast of Jabalpur and 280km from Khajuraho, is home to about fifty tigers. You have one of the best chances in India to see a tiger in this park. Other wildlife include elephants, wild boars, jackals, chinkaras, sloth bears, nilgais, sambars, porcupines, gaurs, and about 150 species of birds. It is difficult to get here, but most people find it worth the trip.

The park is named after the local fort. There is a temple within the fort walls, and below it are rock-cut caves. You must obtain permission to visit the fort from the park office. It is said that the monkey warriors built Rama a fort on top of the hill here, so Rama could rest on his way back to Ayodhya from Lanka. A four-wheel drive jeep is needed if you wish to visit the fort.

Park Information
The park is open in the mornings and late afternoons, November 1 to June 30. The park office is in the village of Tala, near the park’s north gate.

The closest town is Umaria, 32km northwest. You can rent a jeep at the park office or through a hotel for about Rs 650. Jeeps enter the park from dawn to 10 am and from 4 pm until dusk.

Elephant safaris are booked at the park office near the gate on Umaria Road and cost Rs 350 per hour for up to four people. There are also watchtowers in the park. The one in Bhadrasila is good for viewing gaur.

The park has a total of 437 sq km and a core area of only 105 sq km. The park consists of rugged hilly forest and a few flat grassy areas. The jeep safaris mainly go to the core area where the tigers usually stay. A tiger may be seen and seeing deer is almost certain.

The best time to view the wildlife is between March and June when it is hot (43ºC, 110ºF) and the tigers and other animals are forced out to look for water. Although it is a better time to see the wildlife, it is an austere time to be here. The electricity is often out, which means fans and A/C do not work.

Bhaghela Museum
Located at Bandhavgarh Safari Camp, this museum contains items from the maharaja of Rewa. Located here is the stuffed body of Mohun, who was the first white tiger found in Bandhavgarh in 1951. The white tigers that you see in zoos around the world are his descendants. There are weapons and a swing made of silver and cut glass. Open daily 10 am to 3 pm and 6 to 8 pm. Admission Rs 7

Where to Stay and Eat
Accommodations for the park are located in Tala, the village directly outside the park’s gate. The phone code for Tala is 07653.
Nature Resort has rooms for Rs 400 and dorm beds in a tent for Rs 100.
Kum Kum Home (265324) has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350.
Tiger Lodge, (265364). next to the bus stop, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 300.
Baghela, Umaria Rd, has rooms for Rs 350.
MP Tourism’s White Tiger Forest Lodge (265308: Web Site: http://www.naturesafariindia.com), Umaria Rd, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 750/900 and Rs 1000/1200 with A/C. Rooms 17 to 21 overlooks the river where elephants often bathe. It has a good restaurant. This place should be booked in advance at a Madhya Pradesh tourist office.
V Patel Jungle Resorts ( 265323) has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 500 to Rs 800. It has a garden. It can be booked in Jabalpur at 212 Abhaykunj, Narmada Rd (0761 26162).
Bandhavgarh Jungle Camp (65317), near the river, used to be the palace of the Maharaja of Rewa. There are two-room luxury tents in the garden for $135 per person. The price includes meals and trips to the park. There is a slide show before dinner.
Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge, (265317) near the river, has comfortable traditional huts decorated with tribal paintings. There is a nice garden. Book with Tiger Resorts, 206 Rakesh Deep, 11 Commercial Complex, New Delhi 110 049 (011 685-3760; fax 686-5212).
Nature Heritage is a new place with comfortable rooms. Khajuraho Tours in Khajuraho can book this hotel.

Travel
The closest railway station is in Umaria (34km), which is on the Katni to Bilapur railway line. From Umaria you get a bus to the village of Tala (1 hr), near the entrance of the park. From Jabalpur, you first get a train to Katni, and then another train to Umaria.

From Varanasi or Khajuraho, you first go to Satna. From Satna you take a bus to Rewa and from there you get a bus to Tala, to get to the park. You can also get a train to Katni from Satna.

From Delhi, you can get the Utkal Exp #8478 to Katni. The Utkal Exp also departs from Bhubaneswar and Puri to Katni.

There is a morning bus from Satna to here. It is 5 hours from Khajuraho by car to Tala.

Amarkantak
Amarkantak is the source of the Narmada River. Some of the temples here date back to the 11th century. Amarkantak is located in eastern Madhya Pradesh. There is a temple and dharamshalas here.


Bhopal

Pop: 1.46 million Area
Phone Code: 0755

Bhopal, the state capital, has interesting museums and mosques. It is said to have taken its name from Raja Bhoj, who ruled Bhopal in the 11th century. Until 1952, Bhopal was an independent, Muslim-ruled princely state. Tourists often come here while going to and from the Buddhist ruins at Sanchi.

Bhopal is infamous as the site of the worst industrial accident in history. In the early morning of December 3, 1984, a cloud of lethal methyl icocyanate gas, used to make pesticides, leaked out of the Union Carbide fertilizer factory in north Bhopal. By the next morning, over 2,000 people had died and many more were crippled for life.

Orientation
The city is divided by the Upper and Lower Lakes. The north part of town is known as Old Bhopal, and the area south of the lakes is known as New Market (New Bhopal). The railway station and bus station are close to the main hotel area around Hamidia Road in Old Bhopal. To get to Hamidia Rd, exit the railway station from platform 4 or 5.

Many of the banks, offices, the tourist office, and Indian Airlines office are located in New Market, a good distant from the railway station. To get there, visitors must take a vehicle.

Information
The MPTDC Tourist Office (778-383; fax 277-4289; Web Site: http://www.mptourism.com), 4th fl, Gangotri Building, TT Nagar, New Market, gives information and books afternoon city tours, cars and MPTDC hotels. The tour goes from 9 am to 5 pm (5 hr, Rs 100) departing from the MPTDC Hotel Palash. There is also a helpful counter at the railway station and Hotel Palash. They also rent cars for travel in the area.

Money, Post & Medical
You can change money at the State Bank of Indore, Parcharad Building, New Market Rd; Allahabad Bank, Bhadbahda Rd; and the State Bank of India, near the Rangmahal Talkies Cinema.

The GPO is on Sultania Rd, near Taj-ul-Masjid, in Old Bhopal.

Internet at Thunder Ball, near the Allahabad Bank, TT Nagar, for Rs 20 per hr and Computera, Hamidia Rd, near the the bus stand for Rs 25 per hr.

Hamidia Hospital (251-1446), Royal Market Rd, is one of the best hospitals in town.

Bookshops and Cultural Places
There are several bookshops on Bhadbhada Rd in TT Nagar, near MP Tourism. Loyal Bookshop near Moti Masjid. Variety Book House, Bhadbhada Rd, has a good selection of books and maps.

The British Library, (255-3767), GTB Complex, TT Nagar is open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm. Roshanpura Naka, New Market, has recent British newspapers and magazines.

The Alliance Française (246-6595; Email: afbpl@bom.vsnl.net.in), Arera Colony, has French newspapers and magazines. It is technically for members only.

Taj-ul-Masjid
Bhopal’s largest mosque, Taj-ul-Masjid, was built by Sultan Jehan Begum (1669-1701). Some of the mosque’s features were never finished. It has 18-storey minarets and three large domes over the prayer hall. The entrance to the mosque is from Royal Market Rd. Open daily except Fri, dawn to dusk.

There is an interesting bazaar nearby.

Lakshmi Narayana Temple and Birla Museum
This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu (Narayana) and Lakshmi (the Goddess of Fortune). There is a good view of the lake from the temple.

The museum has a good collection of local sculptures. Most of the sculptures are of Siva, Vishnu and his incarnations, and their respective consorts. There is a terra-cotta exhibit from Kausambi. The museum is open daily except Mon 9 am to noon and 2 to 6 pm. Admission Rs 3.

Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya (Tribal Museum)
In this museum in Shamla Hills, overlooking the Upper Lake, there is an outdoor exhibition of traditional adivasi tribal buildings from all over India. Villagers were brought from all over India to build these houses in their own traditional styles, using only the tools and materials available at their home villages. The buildings contain intricate murals, carved beams, and items used in daily life, such as cooking utensils, musical instruments, and tools. Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya means “museum of man.”

Open daily except Mon 10 am to 6 pm. There are craft demonstrations and a film on Sat at 4 pm. Admission Rs 15.

If you are coming here from near the railway station (20 minutes away) you might want to get the rickshaw to here and back, plus waiting time. From the railway station, you can take a bus to New Market and another bus from there.

Van Vihar Safari Zoo Park
Van Vihar is more like a zoo than a safari. Open daily except Tues 7 to 11 am and 3 to 6 pm. Admission Rs 100. The Safari Zoo Park has a white tiger, leopards, and Himalayan bears. The best time to visit is between 4 to 6 pm. The zoo is located near the Tribal Museum, and both can be visited on the same trip.

Many species of birds congregate on the lakeshore. You can get a boat half a km from the entrance of the park (Rs 30 for 30 min), to get a good view of the birds.

Bharat Bhavan
Bharat Bhavan, established in 1982, is a center for the visual and performing arts, whose goal is to help preserve traditional folk art. There is a sculpture exhibit and a gallery containing modern Indian art, and an exhibit of adivasi art (traditional folk art). Exhibited are paintings, terra-cottas, carvings, and masks. It is in Shamla Hills and open daily except Mon 2 to 8 pm. There are dance, music, and drama performances here. Admission Rs 15

Other Places
The Jama Masjid (1837) and Moti Masjid (1860) are interesting mosques.

Visitors can take boat rides on the Upper Lake. There are motorboats, sailboats, rowboats, and pedal boats available for rental.

The Madhya Pradesh Archeological Museum, south of the Lower Lake near Raj Bhavan, has a collection of ancient sculptures, miniature paintings, and bronze statues. Open Tues to Sat 10 am to 5 pm. It is not particularly interesting.

Where to Stay—Lower
Many of the cheaper places are on or near Hamidia Rd, near the railway station. To get to this area you exit via platform 4 or 5. Many of the hotels add a ten-percent luxury tax and a ten-percent service charge. You may want to inquire about this when you book the room.

The Retiring Rooms at the railway station are Rs 150 per person. A dorm bed is Rs 70.
Hotel Ranjit (253-3511; fax 253-2711: Email: ranjit_bpl@sancharnet.in), 3 Hamidia Rd, has clean air-cooled rooms for Rs 275/325 and Rs 550/600 with A/C. Good value, recommended. Has a good restaurant.
Hotel Red Sea Plaza, near the railway station, has rooms for Rs 200/250 and Rs 400/500 with A/C. It is not so well-maintained.
Hotel Sangam (542-382), has clean rooms for Rs 200/250 and Rs 250/350. It is fairly quiet.
Hotel Jalishan (535-778), Hamidia Rd, has rooms for Rs 250/400 and Rs 550 with A/C. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Rama International (253-5542), near Radha Cinema, has good-sized rooms for Rs 300/350 and Rs 650/800 for A/C. It could be better maintained.
Hotel Sonali (253-3880: fax: 251-0337: Email: sonali@sancharnet.in), Radha Talkies Rd, is a good, popular place with rooms for Rs 425/575 and Rs 800/900 with air-`cooling.

Where to Stay—Middle
Hotel Shivalik Gold (274-3000 fax 225-5733), 40 Hamidia Rd, has clean, comfortable rooms for Rs 400/550 and Rs 1000/1250 with A/C. It is a good value. It is behind the Hotel Taj.
Hotel Taj (253-3162), 52 Hamidia Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 250/350 and Rs 950/1050 with A/C. Good restaurant.
Shimla Palace (540-313), 31 Shimla Rd, has clean, large rooms. It is a nice place in a quiet area. Some rooms have a view of the lake.
Hotel Blue Star (535-526; fax 533-045) has rooms for Rs 250/300 and Rs 500/550 with A/C. It is a good value.
Jyoti (534-858), 53 Hamidia Rd, is a clean, popular place. It has a very good restaurant.
Richa (253-2564), 1 Hamidia Rd, is a well-managed place with clean rooms with hot water and TV for Rs 500/700. It is a good value.
Deep (545-339), near Sangam Cinema, is a clean, quiet place. It is a good value.
MP Tourism’s Hotel Palash (255-3006; fax 255-2384), TT Nagar, near New Market, has rooms for Rs 850/950 and Rs 1200/1400 with A/C. It has a pleasant garden. This hotel is popular, so it is best to book it in advance.
Hotel Surya (274-1701), Hamidia Rd, has rooms for Rs 605/700 and Rs 850/950 with A/C.

Where to Stay—Higher
Amer Palace Hotel (272-110; fax 573-308), MP Nagar, has rooms for Rs 1295/1695. It is a good place.
The three-star Residency Hotel (556-002; fax 557-637), MP Nagar, has clean rooms for Rs 1250/2100. It has a pool, health club, central A/C, and a very good restaurant.
Imperial Sabre (540-702) is an old palace guesthouse with a good location.
Lake View Ashok (266-0090; fax 266-0096: Email: hlvashok@sancharnet.in), in Shamla Hills, has very comfortable rooms with balconies and a view of the lake for Rs 1600/2200. It has a garden and a good restaurant. Friendly and well-managed.
Jehan Numa Palace (266-1100; fax 266-1720) was a former palace. Rooms are Rs 2600/3200. It has a large garden.

Where to Eat
Indian Coffee House, Hamidia Rd, next to Sangam Cinema, has good, inexpensive food.
Hotel Guarav, in Old Bhopal, has good vegetarian food.
Manohar Dairy and Restaurant, 6 Hamidia Rd, serves veggie burgers, dosas, and other snacks. It carries a good selection of Indian sweets and ice cream.
The Hotel Ranjit has a very good restaurant.
Apsara, Rabindra Bhavan, TT Nagar, is a good place.
Kwality, New Market Rd, TT Nagar,, is a popular place serving Indian, Chinese, and Western food.
Hotel Jyoti has a very good restaurant. It has good cheap thalis.
Nisarga Hotel, 211 MP Nagar, has a good Chinese restaurant.
Shahnama Restaurant in the Jehan Numa Palace Hotel has good food (main dish Rs 100).

Travel
Air Indian Airlines (277-0480), Gangotri Complex, TT Nagar, New Market, next to MP Tourism, has flights to Delhi ($150), Mumbai (daily, $126), Indore (daily, $80), and Gwalior (4 weekly, $115).

Jet Airlines (276-0371) has flights to Mumbai (US$120)

The airport (252-1277) is 12km from Old Bhopal. There are fixed rates from the airport—Rs 225 for a taxi and Rs 125 for an auto-rickshaw.

Train Bhopal is on the Delhi-Mumbai railway line. There are two railway stations in Bhopal. Reservations: 540-120. To get to Hamidia Rd, it is better to exit from platforms 4 and 5.

The A/C Shatabdi Exp #2002 departs New Delhi at 6.15 am and arrives in Bhopal around 2 pm. At 2.40 pm it returns to Delhi (7½ hr), stopping at Jhansi (3 hr), Gwalior (4¼ hr), and Agra (5½ hr). To get to Khajuraho, you take a train to Jhansi and a bus from there.

There are express trains to Sanchi (1 hr) at 8 am and 2.40 pm. There are several slow passenger trains to Sanchi.

Trains depart from Bhopal to Agra (8 hr), Delhi (10 to 12 hr), Gwalior (6½ hr), Ujjain (3 hr), Mumbai (12 to 16 hr), Jhansi (4½ hr), Chennai, Hyderabad, and Amritsar. Bangalore Karnataka Exp #2628 (7 am, 31 hr); Chennai Tamil Nadu Exp #2622 (8.10 am, 23 hr); Jabalpur Amarkantak Exp #8254 (4 pm, 8 hr, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sun), Narmada Exp #8233 (11 pm, 8½ hr); Lucknow Kushi Nagar Exp #1015 (2.50 pm, 12 hr); Mumbai and Jalgoan Punjab Mail #1038 (4.50 pm, 15 hr); Ujjain Narmada Exp #8234 (6.15 am, 5 hr); Vidisha and Sanchi Jhelum Exp #1077 (9.10 am, 45 min).

Bus The bus station (540-841) is a ten-minute walk west of the railway station. The reservation office is open from 11 am to 8 pm. There are frequent buses to Sanchi (1½ hr) via Raisen, Indore (6 hr), Vidhisha, and fewer buses to Jabalpur (12 hr) and Ujjain (5½ hr). To get to Mandu, travelers must first go to Indore. It is more convenient to go to Jabalpur by train.

MP Tourism has an A/C express bus from Bhopal to Indore (5 hr, Rs 175). It departs from the railway station after the Shatabdi Exp arrives. To get to Ujjain you can take this bus and get down at Dewas (35km). Then take a local bus from there. There is a morning express bus to Indore for Rs 100.

Gwalior

Pop: 800,000 Area
Phone Code: 0751

Gwalior, 120km southeast of Agra, on the main Delhi-Mumbai railway line, is worth a visit. The fort on top of the hill, overlooking the city, is impressive.

Also worth seeing is the impressive Jai Vilas Palace, an opulent, European-type palace. The present royal family in Gwalior is the Scindias. The Maharaja of Gwalior was given a twenty-one-gun salute during the British Raja for his loyalty during the Uprising of 1857. The royal family is still popular.

The city itself is not so interesting. It is the type of place that after visiting the fort and palace, one will usually want to leave immediately.

It is convenient to visit Gwalior while traveling between Khajuraho and Agra. Businesses are often closed on Tuesdays. In late-November and early December, there is an important classical music festival here.

History
Gwalior is said to have been established in the first century by a king named Suraj, who was cured of leprosy here by the saint Gwalipa with the water from Suraj Kund (at the fort). Out of appreciation, the king named the fort Gwalior. Gwalipa gave the king the name Suhan Pal and told him that his descendents would remain in power as long as they retained the new name. When the 84th descendent changed his name to Tej Karan, the kingdom was lost.

Over the years, the Rajputs, Delhi Sultans, Mughals, Marathas, and the British controlled the fort. At the end of the 14th century, the Tomar dynasty took control of Gwalior. The Tomars, a Rajput group, defended the fort against the Delhi Sultans in 1505 while many of their neighbors were defeated. In 1516, the fort was attacked by Ibrahim Lodi of Delhi and finally captured a year later. The Mughals later took the fort and in 1754, the Marathas captured it. The British and Marathas fought over the fort for the next fifty years. Eventually, the Scindias (one of four main ruling families of the Marathas) took control, under British direction.

During the Uprising of 1857, the Maharaja of Gwalior backed the British, although his troops revolted. When the British retook the fort, the Rani of Jhansi was killed while courageously charging out to battle.

Orientation
The fort is to the north of the city, on top of a hill. The old city is situated next to this hill. The railway station is in the east section of town, half a km from the State bus stand. The main road in town is Maharani Lakshmi Bhai (MLB) Rd, which runs east-west. Most hotels are located near the railway station, on or near MLB Rd. The Private bus stand is inconveniently located in the southwest section of the city.

Information
The MPTDC Tourist Office (324-0370; fax: 234-0371), Hotel Tansen, Gandhi Rd, near the bus stand, books a city tour which goes to the fort, museum, sun temple, and the tombs of Tansen and Mohammed Gaus (5 hr, daily 9 am, Rs 40) and another tour to the fort’s Sound and Light Show (Sept 15 to July 1, daily, 7.30 pm, Rs 35). Open Mon to Fri 10 am to 5 pm.

Money can be changed at the State Bank of India, Bada Chowk, and at the Usha Kiran Palace.

The GPO is at Bada Chowk. The postman for poste restante is usually here late on weekday mornings.

Gwalior Fort
This impressive fort is 3km long and 1km wide at some places. Inside it are palaces, temples, and other buildings constructed over a period of years. The fort is 90m (300 ft) above the city, and its walls are 10m (33 ft) wide. It has it own water tanks. There is a great view of the city from the fort’s walls. There are a variety of things to see at the fort, but much of the fort is empty fields. Open 8 am to 6 pm. Admission: Foreigners/Indians US$5/Rs 250. Video Rs 25.

The fort has two entrances, the Urwahi Gate in the southwest, which is approached through a barren ravine, and the Gwalior Gate next to the Old Town in the northeast. Both have a long steep ramp leading up to them. The southern ramp is much longer, and there is not much to see on that side. The approach to the northern gate is more interesting (and shorter). It is possible to take an auto-rickshaw or taxi up the hill if it is too difficult to walk. I took a taxi up to the southwest gate and then walked around the fort to the main area in the northern part of the fort. I then exited from the northeast gate and walked down to the old town. If you plan to walk both ways, it is best to enter the north gate and then exit out the South Gate. It is easier to find a rickshaw around the northeast gate than the southwest gate.

Along the walls of the near vertical sandstone cliffs, leading up to the southwest entrance, are rows of different size Jain sculptures of the tirthankaras dating from the 7th to 15th centuries. One statue of Adinath is 19m (63ft) tall. It is said that the Mughal Babur had many of the sculptures defaced in 1527.

The Teli ka Mandir is a tall, 9th century temple containing excellent sculptures on the outside walls. Next to this temple is the large Suraj Tank. It is said that the sage Gwalipa gave King Suraj Pal water from this tank and cured him of his leprosy.

On the east side of the fort at the midway point are the two Sas Bahu Temples, both of which have nice carvings on them. Sas Bahu means “mother-in-law and daughter-in-law.” They are both Vishnu temples built by the Kachhapaghata kings in the 11th century. From here you can get a good view of the city below.

Nearby is the tall, white Bandi Chhor Gurudwara. This gurudwara marks the place where Emperor Jahangir imprisoned the sixth of the ten Sikh gurus, Har Gobind, for two years. Visitors are expected to cover their heads with a cloth before entering (cloths provided). Inside, men chant the Sikh scriptures.

If you enter from the northeast, you will first pass through Alamgiri Gate (1660). Just inside the gate, at the base of the hill, is the Gujari Mahal Palace, built by Man Singh Tomar for his favorite queen. Inside is an Archaeological Museum with sculptures and paintings from the area. The sculpture of a tree-goddess from Gyaraspur is considered a valuable piece of art and is usually kept locked. The curator will display it in special cases. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 2.

You then proceed up the hill to Badalgarh Gate (also called Hindola or Swing Gate), after which you will come to Ganesh Gate. There is a temple here dedicated to Gwalipa, the sage after whom the fort is named. You will then pass Jain and Hindu sculptures, and then arrive at the Chaturbhuja Mandir, or Four-Armed Temple, (876 AD).

After passing the temple, you will enter the Hathiya Paur (Elephant Gate), where a large stone elephant once stood guard and then enter the fort itself.

On your right is the Man Mandir Palace, built by Man Singh (1486-1517), the most impressive and well-maintained of the palaces here. It has many small alcove rooms with lattice screen windows and blue, yellow, and green tiles forming pictures of ducks, elephants, parrots, tigers, and banana trees. Downstairs are the rooms that were used during the hot summer months to stay cool. There are also dungeons here. Aurangzeb imprisoned his brother here in the 17th century, and slowly killed him through starvation and intoxication (he was fed only boiled and mashed poppies). The Sikh guru Har Gobind was also imprisoned here for two years, before being released.

At the north end of the fort are ruined palaces and tanks. There are four other palaces, two built by the Rajputs and two by the Mughals. The Vikramaditya Palace has a hall with a domed roof. The Karan Mandir is a long, two-storey building with a long pillared hall. The large Jauhar Tank next to them is where the Rajput queens committed jauhar (mass suicide) in 1232 when the Delhi sultan Iltutmish was about to seize the fort. There are also the Shah Jahal Mahal and Jahnagiri palaces, but they are not as interesting.

The Sound and Light Show is shown to the left of the Elephant Gate as you enter the fort. The English show plays daily at 7.30 pm. Admission Rs 10 and Rs 150 for foreigners. Amitabha Bachchan, the famous movie star, narrates it.

Jas Vilas Palace
This is the palace of Maharaja Scindia. Part of it is now a museum, and the royal family still lives in the rest. Maharaja Jiyaji Rao Scindia commissioned a British architect to design this palace, supposedly to impress the then Prince of Wales (later Edward VII), who visited in 1875.

The palace contains furniture from Versailles, acquired when Louis XVI estate was sold after the French Revolution, many ornate mirrors, a swing made of Venetian cut glass from Italy in which to swing a Deity of baby Krishna each year, and many other items.

Two Belgian chandeliers hang in the Durbar Hall upstairs, each weighing 3.5 tons and measuring 12.5m high. The room was also painted with gold, said to weigh 58 kg. It also contains the largest handmade carpet in Asia (40m long), which took twelve years to weave. In the banquet hall on the ground floor, on the huge dining table, are tracks for a silver toy train set that would carry items around the table. There is also an antique Rolls Royce outside.

The palace is open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 50 for foreigners; Indians Rs 15. Keep your ticket stub, as it is checked twice at the two different buildings.

If you take an auto-rickshaw, ask for the museum entrance and not the palace entrance, as they are a good distant apart.

Tombs of Tansen and Muhammad Gaus
The Tomb of Tansen (16th century) is east of the fort in the Old Town. Tansen was one of the greatest musicians in Indian history. Chewing the leaves of the tamarind tree near the tomb is said to make your voice as sweet as Tansen’s. A celebrated Classical Music Festival is held here each November or December.

To get here, follow Fort Rd from the fort’s northeast entrance. Turn right after walking about fifteen minutes.

In the same garden is the Mausoleum of Muhammad Gaus. Muhammad Gaus helped the Mughal Emperor Babur capture Gwalior Fort in the 16th century. The walls of the tomb have intricate, stone-cut jali screens.

Sun Temple
Surya, the sun-god, is worshipped in this temple. It was built by the Birla family and is a scaled-down, red-stone version of the great Sun temple in Konark, Orissa. It is nowhere near as impressive, however. It has a shikhara (tower), unlike the Konark temple. On the outside of the temple are different gods. This temple is located in the Morar area in the east part of the city.

Where to Stay—Lower
The standard of low-priced rooms is much lower here than in other places in India. Most hotels have 24-hour checkout.

Hotel Bhagwati (327-428), Nai Sarak, has rooms for Rs 75/125. There is a good view of the fort from the terrace. It is a good value.
Regal Hotel (331-469), MLB Rd, has rooms with common bath for Rs 125/150 and with bath and an air-cooler for Rs 150/250.
Man Mandir (321-442), High Court Lane, has well-maintained rooms for Rs 150/200. It is a friendly place.
Bhagwati (327-428), Anturam Shivari Chowk, has basic rooms for Rs 125/150. Some rooms have fort views.
DM Hotel (234-2083) has air-cooled rooms with bath and a cheap TV for Rs 300/350. Cheapers roosm are Rs 150/200
Hotel India (341-983), across from the station, has fairly basic, run-down rooms for Rs 150/175 with bath, Rs 300 with an air-cooler, and Rs 450/500 with A/C. Dorm beds are Rs 90. It has an Indian Coffee House restaurant.

Where to Stay—Middle and High
MP Tourism’s Tansen (234-0370; fax 234-0371), 6A Gandhi Rd, has rooms with TV and air-cooling for Rs 600/700 and with A/C for Rs 1000/1200. It is in a peaceful location, has a garden, and is a good value. Best to book it in advance.
Fort View, MLB Rd, is a well-managed place with comfortable rooms with bath and TV for Rs 350/350 and Rs 700/800 with A/C.
Gwalior Regency (340-670; fax 343-520), New Bus Stand Rd, near the railway station, has modern central A/C rooms for Rs 950/1200. It has a pool (non-guests can use it for Rs 100) and a health club with a jacuzzi (Rs 100).
Shelter (234-6209; fax 232-6212), Pandav, near the railway station, is a modern place with clean, comfortable rooms for Rs 1000/1100 and Rs 1150/1200 with A/C. It has a good restaurant.
Usha Kiran Palace (232-3993; fax 232-1103) has comfortable rooms with antique furniture for $50/70. It used to be a palace. It is surrounded by a beautiful garden, has large verandahs, and is quiet. It has a good restaurant. Recommended.

Where to Eat
Indian Coffee House, in the Hotel India, near the railway station, has good, inexpensive South Indian food.
Kwality Restaurant, near the southern gate of the fort, has good food.
Banjara, High Court Lane, has good North and South Indian and Continental food. It has good breakfasts.
Volga Restaurant, in the Hotel Surya, near Usha Kiran Palace, has good Indian food. A main dish costs about Rs 50.
The restaurant in the Usha Kiran Palace is good, but expensive. It serves a lunch buffet.

Travel
Air Indian Airlines (232-6872), MLB Rd, has flights to Delhi (4 weekly, $100), Indore (4 weekly, $95), Bhopal (4 weekly, $120), and Mumbai (4 weekly, $210). An auto-rickshaw to the airport (9km) costs about Rs 124; a taxi Rs 280.

Train Gwalior is on the main Delhi-Mumbai line. The superfast Shatabdi Express connects Gwalior with Delhi (3½ hr, #2001, 7 pm) via Agra (1½ hr) going north, and Jhansi (1 hr, #2002, 9.30 am) and Bhopal (4½ hr) going south. Normal express trains travel north to Delhi (5 hr), Agra (2 hr), and south to Indore (12 hr) and Mumbai.

Agra Lakshadweep Exp #2617 (10.40 am, 1½ hr), Taj Express #2179 (4.45 pm, 1½ hr); Bhopal Punjab Mail #2138 (10.25 am, 8 hr); Delhi Taj Express #2179 (4.45 pm, 5 hr), Shatabdi Exp 2001 (5 pm, 3½ hr); Jhansi Punjab Mail #2138 (10.25 am, 1½ hr); Mumbai Punjab Mail #2138 (10.45 am, 22 hr).

Bus Regular buses leave from the government bus stand to Jhansi (3 hr), Agra (3 hr), Shivpuri (3 hr), Indore, Bhopal, Ujjain, and Jabalpur. There are two morning buses to Khajuraho (9 hr). Private buses depart from the Lashkar bus stand.

Indore

Pop: 1.65 million Area
Phone Code: 0731

Indore, the second largest city in Madhya Pradesh, is a fast-moving, modern business and industrial town with not much to do in it. You may pass through here on the way to Ujjain, Omkareswar, or Mandu.

Indore became the capital of the Holkar dynasty during the 18th century when the dynasty controlled a large part of India. Rani Ahilya Bai (died 1795) built temples and philanthropic establishments across India.

Information
The helpful MPTDC Tourist Office (252-8653) is behind the Ravindra Natya Griha Exhibition Hall on RN Tagore Rd. (10 am to 5 pm). They can arrange tourist taxis, and also run a one-day tour to Omkareswar and Maheshwar (Rs 350), as well as a two-day tour to Mandu (Rs 500).

The State Bank of India on AB Rd, next to the GPO, changes cash and travelers cheques. The State Bank of Indore, on Raj Wada, changes money. The Bank of Baroda, Agra-Bombay Rd, near the GPO, accepts Visa cards.

Rupayan, in the Central Hotel, and Badshah Bookshop, in the City Center shopping center, MG Road, are good bookshops.

After 10 pm there is a fifty-percent surcharge on auto-rickshaw fares.

Travel agencies: Royal Tourist Service (434-730), 164 RN Tagore Rd; and President Travels, in the Hotel President (533-472), 163 RN Tagore Rd.

Internet at Central Telegraph Building in Nehru Place. Rs 40 per half hour.

Lal Bagh Palace
The Lal Bagh Palace (daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm) is one of the most elaborate palaces in India. This extravagant palace, which took thirty years to build, was the former home of the Maharaja. Its gate is a copy of the gate at Buckingham Palace. It has crystal chandeliers, marble pillars, stained glass windows, and antique furniture. On the ground floor are the Durbar hall (assembly hall), billiards room, and the ballroom. There is a small collection of tribal items. Admission Rs 5. Camera/video Rs 10/50

Central Museum
The Central Museum near the GPO has an interesting collection of 11th and 12th century sculptures and old deities found mainly in Madhya Pradesh. There are some Harappan terra-cotta pieces found in Mohenjo Daro in southern Pakistan. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm.

Other Places
Rajwada is the Old Palace of the Holkars. The gateway is seven-storeys high. There is not much left of the palace due to damage from three different fires.

Kanch Mandir (Mirror Temple) is an ornately decorated Jain temple. It has glass chandeliers, and mirrors cover the walls and ceilings. It has paintings inside depicting the Jain viewpoint of life and the events following a person’s death.

Chhattri Bagh contains memorials to the previous rulers of Indore.

The busy Kujuri Bazaar is an interesting place to visit.

In the Bada Ganapati Temple, at the western end of MG Rd, there is a 9m (30 ft) tall statue of Ganesh—said to be the world’s largest.

Where to Stay—Lower
Most of the budget hotels are by the Sarwate bus stand and the railway station, which are only a few minutes apart. The mid-range hotels are a better value than the budget ones
.
Janta Hotel (name in Hindi), next to the Hotel Ashok, is the least expensive.
Hotel Shalimar (462-481) is a good value with basic rooms with bath for Rs 100/125.
Hotel Sagar International (462-630) has a selection of large rooms for Rs 150/200. It is a good choice. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Neelam (246-6001) has rooms with TV for Rs 250/400 and Rs 650 with A/C. Rooms have hot water and are decently clean.
Nearby, the Hotel Ashoka (246-5991) 14 Nasia Rd, has rooms with TV and hot water for Rs 250/325 and Rs 500/600 with TV and A/C. 24-hour checkout. It is a good value.
Hotel Sagar (462-630) has big rooms with hot water for Rs 225/300. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Payal (247-8460), 38 Chhoti Gwaltoli, is a good place with clean rooms with TV for Rs 300/400. Bucket hot water free. It is near the bus station. 24-hour checkout. Recommended.

Where to Stay—Middle To High
Samrat Hotel (433-889), 18/5 MG Road, is a large, good-valued, modern place with nice rooms for Rs 350/450 and Rs 500/600 with A/C. 24-hour checkout.
Kanchan (251-8501; Email: kanchan@yahoo.co.in), Kanchan Bagh, has clean. comfortable rooms for Rs 600/00 and Rs 800/1000 with A/C. It is a good value.
Royal Residency (270-5677; fax 246-5377), 225 RN Tagore Rd, has very clean comfortable rooms for Rs 750/900 and higher.
Tourist Bungalow (252-1-818), RN Tagore Rd, has rooms with A/C for Rs 650/800.
Surya Hotel (521-155; fax 518-774), 575 Nath Mandir Rd, is a quiet place with modern rooms with TV for Rs 650/850 and Rs 900/1100 with A/C. Some rooms have a balcony. Recommended.
Shreemaya Hotel (514-081; fax 527-680), near the railway station, is a good place with rooms for Rs 400/500 and Rs 550/650 with A/C. You can change money here. Recommended.
Hotel President (528-866; fax 512-230), 163 RNT Marg, with a turbaned doorman, has good, comfortable rooms with A/C for Rs 950/1200. There are also higher-priced rooms. It has a sauna and health club, and the vegetarian Woodlands Restaurant is excellent. Recommended. 9 am checkout.
Taj Malwa (433-884) 585/2 MG Rd, Palasia, is a pleasant, modern place with comfortable rooms. It is a good value. 9 am checkout.
The four-star Indotels Manor, AB Rd, 4km from the center of town, is one of the best places in town with rooms for Rs 1000/1200 up to Rs 2500 for the Maharaja Suite. It has a pool and a good restaurant.
Taj Residency (557-700; fax 555-355), near Meghdoot Gardens, 5km from downtown, is a deluxe place with rooms for $75/85. Recommended.

Where to Eat
Apsara, at the Tagore Natya Griha Hall, in front of the Tourist Bungalow, is popular with the locals. Recommended. The macaroni and vegetable pulao are both good.
Woodlands Restaurant, at the Hotel President, 163 RNT Marg, is a high-class and excellent South Indian vegetarian place. Recommended.
Food Place, City Center shopping complex, MG Rd, has good South Indian food.
Indian Coffee House, MG Rd, serves good food. Inexpensive.
Shreemaya Hotel, RNT Marg, has a popular, good South Indian restaurant.
Volga Restaurant, Regal Theatre Premises on MG Road, is a high-class place.
Status Restaurant, ground floor of Hotel Purva, 565 MG Road, is a good place with very good Rajasthani lunch thalis (Rs 40).
Hotel Surya has a good restaurant.

Travel
Air Indian Airlines (243-1594; airport: 411-782) has daily flights to Mumbai ($125) and flights to Delhi ($175) via Bhopal ($85) and Gwalior ($100).

Indian Airlines office (243-1595), Race Course Rd. Jet Airways (254-4590; Airport: 410-452).

The airport is 9km west of the city center. An auto-rickshaw costs about Rs 70 and a taxi Rs 150 to the hotel area.

Train The reservation office is across the street from the station. Open Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm, Sun 8 am to 2 pm. Trains departing from Delhi and Chennai can be reserved here.

Trains to Delhi go by two routes: the daily Indore-Nizamuddin Exp #4005 departs 4 pm from Indore via Ujjain and Bharatpur and arrives in Delhi at 6.10 am. The Malwa Exp #9367 (2 pm) takes the other route—via Bhopal (6 hr), Jhansi (11 hr), Gwalior (13 hr), and Agra (14½ hr)—and arrives in Delhi at 7.50 am.

There are two trains daily to Chittorgarh, Ajmer, and Jaipur, in Rajasthan.

To get to Ajanta and Ellora, travelers must first go to Jalgaon, 55km north of Ajanta. To get there you have to change trains at Khandwar junction.
Bhopal Intercity Exp #9303 (6 am, 4¾ hr); Calcutta Shipra Exp #9305 (8.10 pm, 36½ hr; Mon Thu, Fri); Jabalpur Narmada Exp #8233 (3 pm, 15 hr); Jaipur Indore-Jaipur Exp #9773 (12 hr); Mumbai Avantika Exp #2962 (3.45 pm, 15½ hr) .

Bus There are two bus stands, the Sarawate bus stand (465-688), near the railway station, and the Gangawal bus stand (480-688), 3km west of downtown.

From the Sarawate Bus Station, there are regular buses to Ujjain (1½ hr) and Bhopal (5 hr). There are buses to Ajanta (12 hr, two direct, 5 am, 8.30 pm), Udaipur (12 hr), Jalgaon (8 hr, two daily), Omkareswar (3 hr, regularly) and Maheshwar (3 hr, three daily).

There is a direct bus to Mandu from Gangawal bus stand (8 am) and from Sarawate bus stand (2 pm). You can also take a bus to Dhar (45 min), and another to Mandu. From the Sarawate station, there are several buses to Dhar in the morning before 10 am. There are frequent buses to Dhar from the Gangawal bus stand.

MPSRTC has four deluxe buses per day to Bhopal (5½ hr) from the Sarawate bus stand. MP Tourism runs an A/C express bus (Rs 175) to Bhopal at 8 am and 3.15 pm from the Tourist Bungalow. This bus meets the superfast Shatabdi Express coming to and from Delhi.

You can catch overnight luxury buses to Mumbai, Jaipur, Pune, Ahmedabad, Nasik, or Aurangabad through private companies. The buses depart around 9 pm. Vijayant Travels is a reliable travel agency operating overnight luxury buses to Mumbai, Nasik, Aurangabad, Nagpur, and other places. Also reliable are Royal Travels, 164 RNT Marg, and Multani Sona Travels.

Jabalpura

Pop: 1 million Area
Phone Code: 0761

Jabalpur, 330km east of Bhopal, is the largest city in eastern Madhya Pradesh. It is well-known for the Marble Rocks on the bank of the Narmada River. Japalpur is a stop-off point on the way to Kanha (160km) and Bandhavgarh National Parks (200km).

Tourist Office and Tours
The MPTDC Tourist Office (232-2111), in the railway station, can arrange reservations at MPTDC hotels at Kanha and Bandhavgarh Parks. During the season, accommodations in the parks should be booked at least three days in advance at any MPTDC Tourist Office. The office also book tours to the Marble Rocks (Rs 50, 4 pm), which depart only if there is a minimum of six people. Open daily 9 am to 6 pm.

Information
You can change money at the State Bank of India (322-259), upstairs, opposite the Hotel Rishi Regency, near the railway underpass (Mon to Fri, 10.30 am to 2.30 pm). Jackson’s Hotel and Samdariya change money only for guests.

The GPO is 1km south of the railway station on Residency Rd.

Travel agencies: Chadha Travels (322-178; fax 322-066), Jackson’s Hotel, can arrange trips to Kanha National Park.

What to See
The Rani Durgavati Museum in the bazaar has a poorly maintained collection of Hindu and Jain sculptures.

On the way to the Marble Rocks you pass the Madam Mahal (1116), a Gond Fort and Palace, now in ruins.

Where to Stay—Lower
Most of the less expensive hotels are located by the bus stand.

Hotel Mayur (310-035), Malviya Chowk, has rooms with bath for Rs 200/300 and with A/C for Rs 500/550
Hotel Sharda (315-375) has rooms for Rs 80/110 with common bath and Rs 120/140 with bath.
Hotel Rahul (262-5525) has poorly maintained but acceptable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 175/225 and with A/C for Rs 450/500. The less expensive rooms do not have windows.
Sivalaya Lodge (325-188), opposite Jyoti Cinema, Naudra Bridge, not far from the bus stand, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 175/225. It is a good value.

What to Stay—Middle to High
Hotel Roopali (262-5566) has rooms with air-cooling and TV for Rs 500/550 and Rs 900/1000 with A/C. This is a good choice.
Hotel Bluemoon (325-146) has an air-cooled room for Rs 200/250 and with A/C for Rs 500/600.
Utsav (26038), Russel Chowk, is a well-run, modern hotel with rooms with TV and bath with hot water for Rs 300/400 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. The cheaper rooms are a very good value.
Jackson’s Hotel (232-3412; fax 232-2066) has rooms for Rs 450/500 and Rs 800/1000 with A/C and a TV. It is an older place that has seen better days, but is still nice. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the garden. You can change money here and it has a good restaurant.
Hotel Samdariya (316-800; fax 316-354) has modern rooms for Rs 600/750 and with A/C for Rs 1100/1400. It has a very good vegetarian restaurant.
The three-star Hotel Rishi Regency (321-804; fax: same) has rooms for Rs 600/800 and with A/C for Rs 900/1100.
The MP Tourism Hotel Kalchuri (232-1491), near the railway station, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 650/750 and with A/C for Rs 1000/1100. It is well-maintained and is a good value.
Hotel Krishna (315-153; fax 311-841), near the museum, has rooms with a TV for Rs 500/700 and Rs 900/1100 with A/C. It has a pool and a restaurant.

Where to Eat
Utsav, Russel Chowk, has good vegetarian food at a reasonable price.
Indian Coffee House, in the bazaar area, sells inexpensive South Indian and other food.
Satyam Shivam Sundaram, next to Jyoti Cinema, has good, inexpensive individual and thali meals. A good value.
Grub Room, Jackson’s Hotel, is a good place serving Indian, Chinese, and Continental cuisine.
Woodlands Restaurant in the Hotel Samdariya is an excellent, higher-class vegetarian place with great South Indian and Chinese food. Recommended.

Local Travel
When you arrive in Jabalpur, the rickshaw drivers will offer to bring you anywhere for Rs 5, because they will try to get you to go to the hotel of their choice and get a commission.
You can rent a bike at places near the railway station.

Travel
Trains Jabalpur is on the main Mumbai-Calcutta railway line. The railway station is 2km east of the downtown (5-min auto-rickshaw ride). There are trains to Satna (3 hr), Bhopal (7½ hr), Patna, Delhi, Calcutta, Chennai, and Varanasi (14 hr). There are about five trains a day to Mumbai (Howrah-Mumbai Mail #3003, 5.30 pm, 15 hr).

To get to Khajuraho, you can take a morning train to Satna (3 hr) and then a bus (4 hr) from there. This is more pleasant than taking a bus all the way to Khajuraho.

To get to Bandhavgarh, you first take a train to Umaria (five daily, 1 hr), and from there a bus.

Bus The MPSRTC buses depart at 7 and 11 am to Kanha National Park (Kisli—6 hr, Rs 45). You can also take a bus to Mandla (every half-hour), about halfway to the park, and then take another bus from there. There is a daily bus to Mukki (6 hr). To get to Bandhavgarh, you could first take a train or bus to Umaria (every hour, 2 hr) and then another bus from there.

There is a direct bus to Khajuraho (12 hr, 9 am).

Around Jabalpur

Marble Rocks
West of Jabalpur, near the village of Bheraghat, the Narmada River flows over a series of waterfalls and then passes through an area of beautiful, 30m high white marble cliffs. This impressive gorge is located 22km from Jabalpur. The gorge is floodlit at night. On weekends and full moon nights, the area is crowded.

From October to June you can take a shared boat for Rs 10 a person, which is the best way to see the rocks. The boatman will point out the interesting formations.

Nearby is the Dhaundhar Waterfall, which is especially worth seeing at the end of monsoon.
Practicalities

MP Tourism’s Motel Marble Rocks (0761 283424) is a colonial house with comfortable rooms with bath for Rs 600. It overlooks the rocks and has a good restaurant. It should be booked in advance.

Hotel Rahul Tourist Home (0761 83450), near the Jain temple on the main road, has basic rooms.

Tempos from the city tempo stand near the museum in Jabalpur come here (45 minutes). You can also ride a bike.

Jhansi

Pop: 420,000
Phone Code: 0517

The main reason most travelers come to Jhansi is because it is the closest train junction on the Delhi-Mumbai line to Khajuraho. It is 5½ hours by bus to Khajuraho from Jhansi. Jhansi is actually located in Uttar Pradesh, but because it is close to Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh, we have included it in the Madhya Pradesh chapter.

When the Raja of Jhansi died without a male heir in 1853 , the British used the Principle of Lapse rule and took over the kingdom from his widow, the Rani (queen) of Jhansi and pensioned the Rani off. When the Upraising began in 1857, the Rani and her followers revolted against the British. After the British gained control again, they gave Jhansi to Maharaja Scindia in exchange for Gwalior in 1861. Twenty-five years later they took back Jhansi.

Information
There is an Uttar Pradesh Tourist Office (244-1267), at the Hotel Veerangana. Hours: Mon-Fri 10 am to 5 pm

There are Madhya Pradesh (442-622) and Uttar Pradesh tourist counters at the railway station.

The State Bank of India changes money (usually only American Express travelers cheques). Jhansi Hotel and Hotel Sita change money and travelers cheques..

Tour-aids (443-490), Jai Complex, Civil Lines, hires out cars to Khajuraho, Orchha and other places.

Places to See
Maharaja Bir Singh Deo of Orchha built the Jhansi Fort in 1613. The fort is not large and there is not much to see. Open July to April 15 daily except Mon 10.30 am to 4.30 pm. April 16 to June, daily except Mon 7.30 am to 12.30 pm. Admission: Foreigners/Indians US$5/Rs 10. Video Rs 25.

There are Dioramas just below the fort portraying the battle in which the Rani of Jhansi died.

Near the fort is the Rani Mahal, the Rani of Jhansi’s palace. It is now a museum with 9th to 12th centuries sculptures (daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm).

Where to Stay
There are Retiring Rooms in the railway station for Rs 150 and Rs 300 with A/C. Dorm beds Rs 40.
Hotel Pujan, Gwalior Rd, is an inexpensive place and is a good value.
Central Hotel (440-509) has rooms with common bath and no windows for Rs 100/125 and with bath and air-cooling for Rs 175/225. The upstairs rooms are better.
Hotel Prakash (330-133; fax 331-911), Sardarila Lal Market, has good, clean rooms with hot water and a TV for Rs 250/300 and with AC and a TV for Rs 450/550. It is a little run-down. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Samrat (244-4943), Shivpuri Rd, Chitra Chauraha, near the railway station, is a new place with clean, air-cooled rooms with bath for Rs 300/400 and with TV for Rs 450/500. 24-hour checkout. Recommended.
UP Tourism’s Hotel Veerangana (244-2402), 1km from the railway station, has rooms for Rs 350/500 and Rs 800/900 with A/C. Dorm beds are Rs 60. It is not well-maintained.
Jhansi Hotel (470-360; fax 470-470) is one of the best places in town. It was a hotel during the British Raja and it has a large garden and verandahs. Rooms are Rs 550/650 and Rs 650/750 with A/C.
Close by is the Hotel Raj Palace (247-0554), Shastri Marg, with air-cooled, clean, modern rooms for Rs 300/500 and A/C rooms for Rs 750/800.
Hotel Sita (244-2956; fax 244-4691), 84 Shivpuri Rd, near the station, is a modern hotel with comfortable, clean rooms. It is a well-maintained, recommended, mid-range place. Rooms cost Rs 750/825 with air-cooling and Rs 1000/1200 with A/C.

There are no high-range hotels in Jhansi.

Where to Eat
The restaurant at the Prakash Hotel is good.
Nav Bharat is good.
Holiday Restaurant, near the Jhansi Hote in Sadar Bazaarl, is one of the best places in town.
Jhansi Hotel, Samrat Hotel and Hotel Sita all have good restaurants.

Travel
Train Jhansi is on the main Delhi-Agra-Mumbai line. Shatabdi Exp #2002 is the quickest train from Delhi (4½ hr, 6.15 am). From Jhansi, the Shatabdi Exp departs to Bhopal at 10.47 am and returns to Delhi at 5.58 pm via Agra (2½ hr). If arriving from Khajuraho in the afternoon on your way to Agra, Mathura, or Delhi, I advise (unless you can get a confirmed seat) that you take the Shatabdi Exp (5.58 pm) despite the expense. The other trains are not reliable and leave at inconvenient times.

There are trains to Delhi (five daily, 4½ to 8 hr), Mumbai (21½ hr), Agra (2½ to 3½ hr), Indore (10 hr), Bhopal (4 hr), and Gwalior (1½ hr). Other trains go to Varanasi, Bangalore, Chennai, and Lucknow. Jalgaon (for Ajanta Caves) Mahakosal Exp #1450 (11.45, 11 hr); Lucknow Gwalior-Barauni Mail #5224 (11.15 am, 9 hr), Kushi Nagar Exp #1015 (8.15 pm, 7½ hr) ; Mumbai Kushi Nagar Exp #1016 (7.15 am, 22 hr) and Punjab Mail #2138 (12.15 pm, 21½ hr); Varanasi Bundelkhand Exp #1107 (7.20 pm, 14 hr) .

Auto-rickshaws cost about Rs 25 from the railway station to the bus station. You can also take one of the regular tempos for Rs 4.

Bus There are express buses to Khajuraho (5½ hr) departing from the railway station at 6, 7, and 11 am Slower state buses depart to Khajuraho from the bus stand on Kanpur Rd, 4km east of the railway station, in the morning and at 1.15 pm.
There are buses to Gwalior, Shivpuri, Lalitpur, and Orchha (30 min, every half-hour).

Kanha National Park

Phone Code: 07649

Kanha National Park, 175km from Jabalpur, was turned into a wildlife reserve in 1933. Hunting was allowed in the park until 1955. The park is nearly 2,000 sq km of beautiful jungle, grassland, and hilly forest. It is home to over one hundred tigers, leopards, bears, wild boars, pythons, the rare twelve-horned swamp deer (barasingha), nilgais, chitals, gaurs (wild buffalo), sambars, deer, and porcupines. There are also many species of birds. The chances of seeing a tiger here are better than at most Indian parks, but it may take several visits.

Information
There is no place to change travelers cheques (the closest place is in Jabalpur).

Wildlife Adventure Tours (011 331-2773), 606 Akashdeep, Barakhamba Rd, New Delhi, can arrange reservations and a trip to Kanha and Bandhavgarh parks.

Kanha National Park, by HS Panwar, describes the park.

Park Information
The park has two main gates, in Kilsi (northwest) and 35km away in Mukki (southwest). There are visitor centers at both entrances as well as in Kanha village in the middle of the park. There are several roads into the park, and the road you take will determine what animals you see. In the wide-open grasslands there is a large number of deer.

The park is open only for morning and evening trips from November 1 to June 30. Closed during the monsoon season. The gates are open from Nov to Feb 15, sunrise to noon and 3 pm to sunset; Feb 16 through April 30, sunrise to noon and 4 pm to sunset; May 1 to June 30, sunrise to 11 am and 5 pm to sunset.

During December and January, it can be quite cold in the morning (2ºC, 36ºF). Plan on wearing warm clothing. As the temperature rises, sightings increase because the animals come out to find water. In May and June, temperatures rise over 40ºC. During this time less people come, but the chances are better for tiger sightings.

Entrance fee: Foreigners/Indians Rs 200/15 per person; Rs 25for a vehicle. Camera/video Rs 25/200You need a fast film speed (400 ASA or more) to take decent photographs of the animals in the early morning or evening light.

Getting Around the Park
Jeeps can be hired at Kisli or Mukki Gates. MP Tourism rents jeeps at the Baghira Log Huts, at Kisli Gate. The fee is based on a per km driven scale. An average drive is about 60km. Expect to pay about Rs 700, which can be divided between six people. There is also a Rs 100 fee for the compulsory guide. During the high-season you should hire a jeep as soon as possible, because sometimes there are a shortage of them. The diesel jeeps are best avoided because they are too noisy. If you are alone, your hotel can often help you find a seat in a jeep.

Often the best way to view wildlife is to sit in a parked jeep. Unfortunately, the rate is based on km driven, so the driver prefers to drive as much as possible. I suggest offering the driver a tip (say Rs 100) to go to a good location in the park (they know where they are) and to park for awhile.
You can also take a pleasure ride on an elephant for Rs 50 per person per hour. Visitors are not permitted to walk around the park.

Visitor Centers
There are three visitor centers in the park: at Kanha, and at the two entrances at the Kisli and Mukki gates. The one at Kanha has exhibits of the animals and their surroundings. These exhibits are well done and are worth seeing. There is a twenty-minute Sound & Light Show, “Encounter in the Dark.” The visitor centers were set up with the help of the US National Park Service.

The centers also sell a full-color book about the park, brochures, and postcards. The visitor centers are open 7 to 10.30 am and 4 to 6 pm. There is a free film shown in the evening at the Kisli Visitor Center (6.30 pm).

Where to Stay and Eat
The hotels are spread out over several km along the road from Jabalpur. You should ask the bus driver to let you down at the hotel you have chosen. It is a far walk from one place to the next.

Near the main gate at Kisli there are two hotels managed by MP Tourism. These places should be booked at least three days in advance and paid in full at a MP Tourism office. If you do not book in advance, dorm beds may be available, but private rooms are unlikely to be vacant. You can book a room at the MP Tourist Office (0761 322-111) at the railway station in Jabalpur.

Other MP tourist offices are:
Bhopal, 4th Floor, Gangotri TT Nagar (0755 277-4289; fax: 277-4289; Web Site: http://www.mptourism.com).
Mumbai, 74 World Trade Centre, Cuffe Parade, Colaba (022 218-7603).
Kolkata (Calcutta), 6th Floor, Chitrakoot Building, 230A, AJC Bose Rd (033 247-8543).
Delhi, 2nd Floor, Kanishka Shopping Plaza, 19 Ashok Rd (011 334 1187).

Tourist Hostel, opposite the bus stand, has dorm beds for Rs 450 which includes meals. It has hot water.
Baghira Lodge, Kisli, has good-sized rooms with air-cooling for Rs 850/1050. It has a restaurant. It is not a good value.

Where to Stay—Kisli Area
Krishna Jungle Resort (277207), has cottages for Rs 950/1000 or Rs 1300/1700 with meals. It has a pool. You can book this place at the Hotel Krishna in Jabalpur ((0761) 28984; fax 315-153).
Wild Chalet (27203) has cottages for $65 per person, which includes meals, transportation to the park, and a tour (two park excursions a day). It is a well-run, friendly place. It is in a peaceful location by a river. Book it by contacting Indian Adventures, Bird-watching and walk can be arranged. 257 SV Rd, Bandra, Mumbai 400 050 ((022) 642-8244; fax 640-6399).
Mogli Resort (277228) is a new place that has clean comfortable rooms with a balcony and bath for Rs 800/1000 and cottages with A/C and a bathtub for Rs 1500/1700.
Kipling Camp (277219; Web Site: http://www.kiplingcamp.com) has high-quality cottages and tents for Rs 5500. Price includes meals and travel into the park in a Land Rover, and a guide. They also arrange elephant rides and can arrange transportation from Jabalpur. It is efficiently run and is the best hotel in the area. Open from November to the beginning of May. Rooms and services should be booked in advance by contacting Tollygunge Club (033 473-4539; fax 473-1903), 120 D Sasmal Rd, Calcutta 700 033.
Kanha Jungle Lodge (07632 56323), 11km from Baihar, has clean, comfortable rooms with hot water. It is in a good location, surrounded by forest. Their guides are knowledgeable. Reserve with Tiger Resorts ((011) 685-3750; fax 686-5212), 206 Rakesh Deep, 11 Commercial Complex, Gulmohar Enclave, New Delhi.
MPTDC Kanha Safari Lodge, Mukki, 30km from Kisli at the park’s southern entrance, has rooms for Rs 700/850 and Rs 950/1050 with A/C. It is in a good location and often has vacancies. It is usually better to stay in Khatia.

Where to Stay—Khatia
Machan Complex (277257) has basic rooms with bath for Rs 325 and dorm beds for Rs 70.
Motel Chandan (77220) has decent rooms with bath for Rs 250/350 and Rs 500/600. It has a good restaurant.
Chaman (277220) has some rooms for Rs 300/400 and for deluxe rooms Rs 650. It serves vegetarian food.
Jungle Camp Khatia, near the Khatia Gate, has rooms with bath for Rs 250/350, which includes vegetarian meals.

Travel
A MP Tourism minibus departs from Jabalpur train station at 8 am. It stops at Khatia, Kisli and hotels on request. It departs to Jabalpur from Kanha at 2 pm. It should be booked at the tourist office (0761 322-111) in Jabalpur in advance.

Buses depart from Jabalpur to Kisli (7 and 11 am, Rs 40, 7 hr) and Mukki (9 am, Rs 50). There are state buses departing from Jabalpur to Kisli Gate at 7 and 11 am. Two buses a day depart from Kisli to Jabalpur (8 am and in the early afternoon). There is one bus daily from Jabalpur to Mukki (6 hr, 9 am). These buses can be really painful.

The closest railway station to Kisli is located in Chiraidongri (1½ hr away). Slow trains pass through here, which can be caught at Jabalpur or Gondia.

You can also go roundtrip by car from Jabalpur (5hr, about Rs 2200 for the taxi), which can be arranged through the tourist office in Jabalpur.

Khajuraho

Pop: 18,000
Phone Code: 07686

There are many ancient temples here, built by the Chandela kings between 950-1050 AD. The Chandela were a dynasty that ruled this part of India for five centuries before finally being defeated by the Mughals. Only about twenty-five of the original eighty-five temples still exist. About ten percent of the elaborate carvings on the temples are erotic, which is one of the reasons for their fame. This is one of the most popular places in India with foreign tourists, even though it is in the middle of nowhere.

The temples are divided into three main groups: west, east, and south. The western group, especially the Laksman Temple and the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, is the most interesting.

The Khajuraho Dance Festival is held every year in Feb-March for ten days. Celebrated dancers from all over India come to pay tribute to the gods and goddesses enshrined in these temples.

Most people stay just one or two days. You can see all the temples in about five or six hours. It can be extremely hot during the summer, with temperatures rising to 42ºC (108ºC), and quite cold in the winter (4ºC, 39ºF).

Information
The village of Khajuraho is near the western group of temples and contains hotels, restaurants, and shops. The Government of India Tourist Office (272347; Email: goito@sancharnet.in) is located here. There are also tourist offices at the bus stand and airport. These offices can help you book hotels during the busy season. The old village of Khajuraho is about 1km east of the bus stand.

You can hire an official guide at the tourist office or at Raja’s Café (where they hang out). Guides charge Rs 200 for half a day and Rs 300 for a full day for up to four people. The guides speak various languages and charge Rs 100 extra for this service. MP Tourism offers a good walkman tour of the western temples for Rs 50.

There is a good Archaeological Survey of India book about the temple of Khajuraho written by Krishna Deva (Rs 5).

Shilpgram has a nightly cultural program starting at 7 pm (Rs 50). Kandariya Art & Culture does a similar type cultural program starting at 6.30 pm (Rs 150). The performances include folk dancing.

Money
You can change money at the State Bank of India (open until 6 pm on Friday and 4 pm on Saturday), the Canara Bank (also gives advances on Visa & MasterCard), and the Khajuraho Ashok.

Western Group
This is the main group of temples and should be seen first if your time is limited. These temples are some of the most interesting in India. There are free, guided tours at 9 am and 2.30 pm daily except Fri and holidays. Most of the temples are built on high platforms and have tall sikharas (towers). Under the tower is the garbha-griha, the altar for the main deity or linga. In front of the altar is the mandapa (hall), where the devotees worship. There is usually an ardha mandapa (a porch) between the doorway and the mandapa. Admission Foreigners/Indians US$5/Rs 20

Laksman Temple (950) is the best preserved of the temples. It is built on a high platform, which has sculptures of elephants, horses, musician, women, and dancers on it. The doorway of the sanctum has a panel of incarnations of Lord Vishnu. There is also a panel of the nine planets and on the walls, carvings of Krishna. The pancha-ratha sanctum has a three-headed, four-armed form of Lord Vishnu surrounded by his ten incarnations and fourteen other forms of Vishnu. On the south wall of the temple is an excellent carving of Ganesh.

Varaha Temple (10th century) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his boar incarnation. Varaha saved the earth by rescuing it from the bottom of the Causal Ocean and by killing the demon, Hiranyaksha. There is a large sculpture of Varaha—2.6m (8½ ft)—on the altar, with hundreds of other figures carved on it. Varaha is on top of Sheshanaga. Next to the Varaha Temple is the small Lakshmi Temple.

Kandariya Mahadeva Temple (1025-1050) is dedicated to Lord Siva. It is the tallest temple, soaring to 31m (95 ft), and is also the most developed architecturally. The temple contains a marble Siva-linga in the inner sanctum. Beside the main sikhara (tower), there are eighty-four smaller, subsidiary towers, all replicas of the main tower. There are almost 900 sculptures on the temple platform.

Jagadambi Temple (early 11th century) has a standing Parvati deity in the sanctum, although the temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu. There are several beautiful carvings of Lord Vishnu on this temple.

Chitragupta Temple (early 11th century) is dedicated to Surya, the sun-god. Inside the inner chamber there is a 1½ m (5 ft) image of Surya riding a chariot drawn by seven horses. There is a carving of Vishnu with ten heads symbolizing all ten main incarnations.

Vishvanantha Temple (1002) is dedicated to Lord Siva. It has a Nandi Pavilion with a 2.2m (7 ft) high sandstone Nandi bull (Siva’s carrier).

Matangesvara Temple, next to the Laksman temple, outside the main enclosure, is dedicated to Lord Siva and contains a 2.5m high Siva-linga. There is active worship in this temple.

Chausat Yogini Temple (900) is dedicated to goddess Kali and is said to be the oldest of the temples. It is located outside the main group of temples, past the tank.

Jain Temples
There are three Jain temples within an enclosure wall about 1½ km southeast of the western group. The Parsvanath Temple (mid-10th century) is the largest. There are many beautiful Vaishnava deities carved on the walls. The temple was originally dedicated to Adinath, but the image of Parsvanath was placed in the sanctum in 1860.

There are two famous sculptures on this temple, one of a woman putting on eye makeup, and another of a woman taking a thorn out of her foot. There is a sculpture of Kama (Cupid) with his quiver of arrows and his consort, Rati.

Only the sanctum of the Adinath Temple (late 11th century) is original. The porch is modern. The Santinath Temple, with a 4.5m statue of Adinath, is the main place of worship. The temple has been renovated, but there is an inscription on one of the walls dated 1027.

Eastern Group
There are several temples one km east of the western group, just north of the Jain temples. There are detailed carvings on the ruined Ghantai Temple (late 10th century). The Javari Temple (late 10th century) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The Vamana Temple (late 11th century), 200m north of the Javari Temple, is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his dwarf incarnation. The Brahma Temple (early 10th century) has a sandstone sikhara on a granite structure.

Southern Group
The Chaturbhuja Temple (around 1100), 2km southeast of the village, has an excellent sanctum containing a 2.7m four-armed Dakshina-murti image of Lord Siva.

The Duladeo Temple (early 12th century), 5km southeast of the village, was the last Chandela temple built in Khajuraho. It has an outstanding deity 2.7m (9 ft) tall of Lord Vishnu in its inner sanctum.

Archaeological Museum
This interesting museum has a good collection of deities and sculptures from the area. There is a Vaishnava Gallery that includes a beautiful Bhu Varaha sculpture. Open 9 am to 5 pm. It takes about twenty minutes to see everything. Admission Rs 5

The museum gives visitors an opportunity to see the temple sculptures at eye level. The original temple artists made adjustments to the figures to compensate for the angle and distance from which the viewer would see the sculptures on the temples themselves. Therefore the sculptures may look slightly out of proportion as they are seen in the museum.

Where to Stay—Lower
Yogi Lodge (274158) is a good-valued, clean, budget place built around a courtyard. Rooms are Rs 150/250 and Rs 350 with air-cooling. During the slow hot season, this place may be the only budget hotel with any people in it. Recommended.
Yadav Lodge is a good place with rooms for Rs 100/130.
Hotel Plaza (44373), Jain Temple Rd, near the Hanuman temple, has rooms with bath for Rs 100.
Jain Lodge (272352) is a good place with a vegetarian restaurant. It has a selection of rooms that start at Rs 200/250 (Rs 300 with air-cooling). Popular with travelers.
Hotel Harmony (244135) is a nice place with large clean rooms for Rs 300/400. The rooms facing the garden are best. It has a vegetarian restaurant.
Next door, the Hotel Surya (274145) is a good, clean place with a small garden. Rooms with bath are Rs 250/225, Rs 350 with an air-cooler, and Rs 500 with A/C. It is a good value.
Hotel Lakeside (274120), Main Rd, has good clean rooms for Rs 200/250, rooms with bath for Rs 300/500, and dorm beds for Rs 50. The rooms are located around the courtyard.
Tourist Village (274128) is well located in a quiet place. It has rooms with bath for Rs 350 (Rs 50 extra with air-cooling).
Rakshan Guest House, a little east of the village has big, clean rooms for Rs 200/250. Friendly.
Sunset View (44077) is a good, clean place with a garden. It is in a good location near the lake. It has a wide selection of rooms ranging from Rs 125 to Rs 300. It is a decent value.
Hotel Casa Di William (274244), Prem Sagar Lake Rd, has clean rooms with hot water and air-cooling for Rs 450/650. It has a good view of the Western temples.

Where to Stay—Middle
MP Tourism’s Hotel Jhankar (274063; fax: 274194) has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 500/600 and Rs 850/950 with A/C. It is the best of the government run places.
The popular MP Tourist Bungalow has a good location. Rooms with bath are Rs 400/450.
Hotel Payal (274064) is a nice, clean place with good-sized, well-maintained rooms for Rs 525/575 and Rs 825/950 with A/C. It has a garden and is in a quiet location. For the price, it is recommended.
Hotel Marble Palace (271606) has comfortable rooms with a bathtub and hot water for Rs 600/700 with air-cooling and Rs 800/900 with A/C. Recommended.

Where to Stay—High
Taj Chandela (272355, fax 272366), Jhansi Rd, is the best hotel in town. The rooms are $80/90. It has a pool, health club, tennis court, massages (Rs 200), chandeliers, and bathtubs in the attached bathrooms. It has a good bookshop, a pleasant garden, and two good restaurants. Non-guests can use the pool for Rs 175.
Hotel Jass Trident (272344; fax 272345: Email: d_bhatial@indiatimes.com), Bypass Rd, is a deluxe place with a pool, tennis court, a garden, and first-class service. Rooms are $50/85. Non-guests can use the pool for Rs 175. They have nightly entertainment (open to non-guests). There are folk dances from September to April, and sitar and tabla music. Recommended.
ITDC Khajuraho Ashok (44024; fax 44361) is a luxury place with a nice pool (Rs 100 for non-guest). Some rooms have a view of the temples. Rooms go for Rs 1650/2200. Not a good value.
Holiday Inn (272301; fax 272304; Email; hikhajuraho@vsnl.com), Jhansi Rdis a new, well-managed place with comfortable rooms for $55/100, a bookshop, and a pool (Rs 150 for non-guest). It is a good place.
Hotel Usha Bundela (272386; fax 272385; Web Site: http://www.ushashriramhotels.com), Jhansi Rd, is a first-class place with rooms for $55/95. It has a large pool that can be used by non-guest. It is a good value and offers discounts during the off-season.

Where to Eat
Jain Lodge has a good vegetarian restaurant. Closed April to June. Hotel Harmony has a vegetarian restaurant.
New Bharat, downstairs from the Raya Hotel, has good vegetarian food.
Jata Shankar, by the Western temple group, has decent, inexpensive thalis for Rs 20.
Mediterraneo Restaurant, Jain Temple Rd, has good Italian food, including pizza and pasta. Part Italian owned.
Temple View, next to the tourist office, is a friendly place with good food.
Raja’s Café, just across from the temple, is managed by two Swiss women (they speak with British accents) whose family has been in India since Independence. It is a popular place with a good view of the temples from the rooftop terrace. The sisters are friendly, helpful, informative, and interesting. They serve Western and Indian food. The government tour guides work from here.
Jass Oberoi (2085) is a high-class place with very good Indian, Chinese, and Continental food
.
The best hotels all have good restaurants. Expect to pay at least Rs 200 per person.

Local Travel
Bicycle rickshaws are expensive because many tourists pay Rs 30 for a ride that should cost Rs 5.

A taxi can be hired at MP Tourism, Khajuraho Tours, or Tour-Aids, near the Clark Hotel.

The eastern and southern temples are a good walk from the hotel area. To hire a bicycle rickshaw for half a day should cost about Rs 100 (Rs 50 or less during the off-season).

A good way to get around is by bike (Rs 30 per day).

Travel
Air There are daily flights to Delhi (1½ hr, $130) via Agra. There is a daily flight to Varanasi ($1200) continuing on to Kathmandu. There are daily flights to Mumbai and Calcutta. Flying is the best way to get to Khajuraho; as there is no nearby railway station.

The Indian Airlines office (244035) is next to the Hotel Usha Bundela on Airport Rd. You can also book flights at the airport.

A taxi to the airport (5km south) costs about Rs 150. There is an airport bus. An auto-rickshaw costs about Rs 70.

Rail The closest stations are Jhansi (176km), if you are taking a train from Agra or Delhi; Satna (117km), if you are coming from Allahabad, Varanasi, Calcutta, or Mumbai; and Mahoba (51km), if you are coming from Varanasi. If you are going to Varanasi, it is usually better to take a train from Satna, because from Mahoba there are only a few slow trains daily with a small quota.

From Delhi, the Shatabdi Express is the best train to Jhansi. It departs Delhi at 6.15 am, arrives in Agra at 8.10 am, and arrives in Jhansi at 10.40 am. The Shatabdi Express departs Jhansi at 6 pm to Delhi (4½ hr). During the day there are also other, much slower trains between Jhansi and Delhi.

There is no direct train connection to Varanasi. The closest train stations to Khajuraho are Satna (117km east) or Mahoba (51km). From Satna, travelers can take an express bus (4 hr) or taxi to Khajuraho. From Satna, there are trains to Mumbai, Gorakh­pur, Calcutta, and Varanasi. To get to Khajuraho from Jaipur, you change trains at Agra and take another train to Jhansi.

Bus There is a direct bus from Agra (12 hr) and about six buses daily from Jhansi (6 hr). A luxury A/C bus to Jhansi departs from Khajuraho at noon to meet the Shatabdi Express going to Agra and Delhi (Rs 200). There are other less expensive and slower buses to Jhansi during the day. There are only uncomfortable local buses for the 10-12 hr trip to Varanasi or Allahabad. There is a 7 am bus to Jabalpur (11 hr). The best way to get to Jabalpur is to go to Satna and get a train for there.

During the off-season, buses to Jhansi are often canceled or delayed (late by two hours or more). You can take an auto-rickshaw to the main road and catch a bus from there.

Taxi A taxi from Jhansi to Khajuraho costs about Rs 1500 and takes about four hours. A taxi to Varanasi (9 hr) costs about Rs 5000.

Near Khajuraho

Panna National Park
This park, 32km from Khajuraho on the road to Satna, is home to tigers (rarely seen), nilgais (blue bulls), and deer. There are also waterfalls in the area. The Pandava Falls Lake, 10km east of Madla, is a peaceful place to visit. It is possible to see wildlife near the lake. It is best to visit the park during fall and winter because the summer months are extremely hot. On the way to the Park from Khajuraho, you pass the Rajgarh Palace, which has a good view from its walls. It is now being converted into a luxury hotel.

Admission: Foreigners/Indians Rs 150/15. Camera/video Rs 25/250

Giles’ Tree House, near the village of Madla, 25km southeast of Khajuraho, is managed by a member of the same family that manages Raja’s Café in Khajuraho. It is located in peaceful location next to a river. There are a few rooms here for Rs 600 to Rs 900. It is usually used by overlanders who camp out. It is a pleasant place.

Ken River Lodge, (07732 275235), 27km from Khajuraho, has comfortable, modern cottages and spacious tents with bath and hot water for Rs 1700. They can arrange a safari to the park. Book it with Ken River Lodge, c/o Pro Host (011 689-3027; fax 689-3027), 456 Vasant Kunj, New Delhi 110070.

You have to visit the park with your own vehicle, as there is no public transportation. From Khajuraho a taxi is around Rs 1,200 for the day.
Ajaigarh and Kalinjar Forts

Located in Ajaigarh, 80km from Khajuraho, is this hilltop fort. The Kalinjar Fort was built during the Gupta period.

Dhubela
There is a small museum in the fort in Dhubela, 65km from Khajuraho, containing sculptures, weapons, and items belonging to the Bundela kings

Mandu

Population 560
Phone Code: 07292

Mandu is a deserted fort and city spread out over a peaceful 22 sq km plateau in the Vindhya Range. It is one of the most fascinating places in India. Mandu has great ruins in a sensational setting. There is a sheer drop to the south and a great view of the Narmada valley below (especially during sunset). Most of the structures were built between 1401 and 1525.

Mandu can be visited on a day trip from Indore, but it a worth staying overnight or even for a few days. It is a pleasant place to stay. The area is popular in December and January, so if you plan to come at that time, it is a good idea to book a room in advance by phone.

History
Raja Bhoj (of Bhopal) founded Mandu in the 10th century. The Muslim rulers from Delhi took the city in 1304, and a governor appointed by Delhi ruled the Malwa area. Malwa became an independent kingdom in 1401 under the Afghan governor Dilawar Khan Ghuri. His son, Hoshang Shah, moved the capital from Dhar to Mandu. Mandu was a major city in the 14th century, at which time it was named Shadiabad (“City of Joy”). Much of the city was built in the Afghan style, inspired by its builder, Hoshang Shah. Akbar conquered the city in 1561, after which time the city declined. When the Marathas took control in 1732, the capital of Malwa was moved to Dhar, and the city was all but deserted.

Information
The Archaeological Survey of India’s good guidebook, Mandu (Rs 11), can be purchased at the Taveli Mahal in the Royal Enclave. It lists buildings not listed in this book.

There are some great views from Sunset Point, in front of the Lohani caves, near Hoshang Shah’s Tomb.

Royal Enclave
The large 15th century Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace), just inside the gateway, was built by Sultan Ghiyas Shah for his harem. It was known as the “Ship Palace” because it is long and narrow (120m by 15m) and flanked by two artificial lakes. It once had pools and canals as well. There is a good view from the rooftop terrace. Addmission; Rs 100; Video Rs 25.

The Hindola Mahal (Swing Palace, 1425) received its name because of its sloping walls, which makes it appear as if it were swaying. It has a ramp that allowed the sultan to ride his elephant up to the upper floor without having to dismount.

Located directly south of the Jahaz Mahal is the Taveli Mahal, now the Archaeological Museum (not much in it). Open daily 9.30 am to 5.30 pm.

Next to the north shore of Munja Talao Lake is the Champa Baoli, an underground well with underground chambers to keep cool. To the north is the Mosque of Dilawara Khan (1405).

The Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate) was the main gate. North of this gate is the imposing Delhi Gate, the most impressive of all of the gates. There is a great view from on top of this gate.

Central (Village) Group
Jama Masjid (1454) is built in the Afghan style. This mosque is large with a simplistic design. It has a huge courtyard and a large prayer hall.
Behind the mosque is the white marble Mausoleum of Hoshang Shah (d. 1435), built by his son in the 15th century. It has carved, lattice marble screens and a central dome surrounded by four small domes. Shah Jahan was so impressed by it that he sent his architects to examine it before building the Taj Mahal.

Across from the Jama Masjid is the Ashrafi Mahal, the remains of a huge tomb. It had a seven-storey victory tower, but only the base remains. Much of it is in ruin. It was originally a madrasa (theological college), and the individual student compartments can still be seen.

The road behind Hoshang Shah’s tomb leads to the Royal Enclave.

Rewa Kund (Lake) Complex
This area was named after the tank, which supplies water to the palaces in the area. Rewa Kund is a peaceful area located about 3km south of the village.

Baz Bahadur Palace (1509) was built in a combination of Mughal and Rajasthani styles. It is situated on the bank of Rewa Kund. Baz Bahadur was the last independent ruler of Mandu.

Baz Bahadur built Roopmati’s Pavilion for his favorite dancer, Roopmati. It is said that when Akbar came here to get Roopmati, Baz Bahadur made a run for it and Roopmati took poison and died. Akbar stayed for a while and the city was left deserted after his departure. The main road ends here, and there is a sheer 250m drop. There are excellent views from the palace and it is a great place to watch the sunset.

East of Rewa Kund is the Hathi Mahal (Elephant Palace). It was named for the pillars supporting the dome, which are huge, like elephant legs. The Tomb of Darya Khan is near by.

Nil Kanth Temple (Palace)
This temple is dedicated to Siva, but was once a Mughal pleasure palace with water flowing over stones. This temple is dedicated to a form of Siva known as Nila-kanth, or “blue-throated.” Lord Siva received this name when he drank the poison churned from the Milk Ocean and his throat turned blue. It is a great place to watch the sunset.
To get to this temple, go to the southern end of the village. Turn right (west) at the fork in the main road. The temple is 3km away, down some steps.

Jain Temples
There are several temples located here dedicated to the Jain tirthankaras. There is a museum type area with a replica of Palitana.

Where to Stay and Eat
The MP Tourism places should be booked in advance at the tourist office in Indore (0731 541-818).

MPTDC Tourist Cottages (263235), 2km south of the village, has spacious cottages with bath and hot water for Rs 600/700 and Rs 1000/1100 with A/C. It is located in a great location overlooking the lake. It has an outdoor restaurant. Recommended.
Travellers’ Lodge (263221), 1km from the bus stop, has rooms with bath with hot water for Rs 550/650 (Rs 50 extra to use the air-cooler). It is well-located in a pleasant location. It has a restaurant.
Hotel Rupmati (263270) has large, clean rooms with bath for Rs 550/600 (air-cooling Rs 50 extra) and Rs 1000 with A/C. It is in a pleasant location and has a restaurant serving Indian and Chinese food.
Ram Dharamsala at the Ram Mandir has basic rooms with a mattress on the floor for Rs 70 and Rs 90 with a fan.
Hotel Maharaja (263280), Jahaz Mahal Rd, between the village and Royal Enclave, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 200/300. It is friendly and the best budget place.
Tourist Rest House (263234)), managed by SADA, opposite the Jama Masjid, has basic rooms for Rs 175 (hot water in a bucket).
Rain Besera, managed by SADA and near their office, has rooms for Rs 300.
Hotel Shivani, near the Traveller’s Lodge, has good, inexpensive vegetarian food.

Local Travel
You can rent a bicycle at the shops near the Jama Masjid or from VIP Wine Shop, near the main square, for Rs 3 per hour or Rs 30 per day. You can rent an auto-rickshaw to see the sites. Mandu is a pleasant place to walk around. It costs Rs 50 return from the bus stand to Rupmati’s Pavilion.

Travel
There are regular buses to Dhar (1½ hr, 35km), from where there are regular buses to Indore (4 hr). There are also two daily direct buses to Indore. A taxi from Indore costs about Rs 800 for the day. There is also a fast-paced tour starting in Indore that comes here (see tours in Indore section). Buses stop near the Jama Masjid.

Omkareswar

Omkareswar is on Mandhata Island, which is 2km long and 1km wide, at the confluence of the Narmada and Kaveri Rivers. Seen from the air, the island resembles the sacred OM symbol.

It is 77km south of Indore. On the island itself all the temples are dedicated to Siva. On the north side of the Narmada there are a few ruined temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu and also some Jain temples. There is a temple dedicated to Varaha with twenty-four figures of Vishnu carved in green stone. There is also a 5.5m (18 ft) long female figure of Chamundi with ten arms holding clubs and skulls.

The island is reached by crossing a concrete footbridge or by taking a boat across the river. There is a major festival here during Siva-ratri (Feb-March) and another during Karttika Purnima (Oct-Nov).

Omkareswar Mandhata Temple
One of the twelve important Siva Jyotirlingas is located in this temple. The sculptures on this important Siva temple are extremely detailed. The main reason pilgrims come to Omkareswar is to visit this temple.

Around the Island
There is a traditional parikrama (circular tour) of the island beginning at the ghats below the Sri Mandhata Temple and going clockwise around the island. It takes at least two hours to complete. The walk is nice for the first half-hour until you reach Triveni Sangam (confluence of three rivers), where the Narmada and Kaveri meet.

From there, the path climbs along the north shore until you reach the Gauri-Somnath Temple, which is surrounded by numerous sculptures. There is a huge Nandi carved of green stone in front of the temple and a large Siva-linga in the temple.

From there you either go down a flight of stairs to the village or head east to the fortified town, that was ransacked by the Muslims.

After climbing the side of a small ravine, you come to the Surajkund Gate, flanked by 3m (10 ft) tall statues of Arjuna and Bhima, the two Pandava brothers. Five minutes from there you come to the 10th century Siddhnath Temple, the oldest temple on the island. It has elaborate carvings. There is a 1.5m elephant carved on a stone slab outside.

From here there are two routes back to the village. One takes you along the top of the plateau past a ruined temple and the Maharaja’s palace. The other way takes you down a flight of steps to the riverbanks and the main ghats.

Practicalities
Yatraki Niwas, behind the bus stand, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 250/350.

Shiv Niwas, by the steps leading to the ghats, has basic rooms.

Hotel Aishwarya (07280 271325) has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350/400 and Rs 500/550 with an air-cooler. It is new and the best place in town by far.

There are mainly only dharamsalas to stay at here. Most of the dharamsalas have windowless rooms with simple washing facilities. The cleanest places are the Ahilya Bhai and Rewa Gauza.

You can purchase mineral water at Jain Cold Drinks, 100m from the bus stand. There are a few basic restaurants.

There is no place to change money (the nearest place to do so is in Indore). The post office on the main street has a poste restante service.

Travel
Omkareswar Road, on the Ratlam-Indore-Khandwa line, is the closest railway station. It is 12km from Omkareswar. Only slow passenger trains stop there.

There are local buses to Ujjain and Indore (70km, 2½ hr). There is a tour that comes here from Indore, which is a convenient way to visit.

Orchha

Population: 8500
Phone Code 07680

Orchha is an abandoned 17th century city, located about 16km from Jhansi. It can be visited easily while going to and from Khajuraho. Orchha was the capital of the Bundela kingdom in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was eventually abandoned in 1783 after being attacked by the Mughals and the Marathas. What is left are ancient palaces and temples, untouched by time. Orchha means “hidden.”

Orchha became the capital city of Maharaja Rudra Pratap Bundela in 1531. Maharaja Bir Singh Deo (1605-27), known as the greatest Bundela king, made friends with Emperor Jahangir, who visited Orchha. Under Bir Singh Deo, the kingdom expanded and took up the whole Bundelkhand region. The Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, was angered by the Bundela rulers and attacked Orchha, which led to its slow deterioration.

Practical Information
There are two areas in Orchha. When you arrive from the main road, the area on the left is the palace area. The area on the right has old large temples and is where the village is located. Many ancient buildings, towers, and old gateways are scattered across the countryside.

There is a Walkman tour for Rs 50 (Rs 500 deposit) available at the reception of the Hotel Sheesh Mahal. The tour covers the three main palaces and takes about two hours (I took one hour). It is useful way to get around, but can be boring in places (fast-forward when it gets boring). To get to the hotel entrance, walk toward the palace area (west). When you come to a dead end you go right up some stairs and then make a quick left.

Palaces Area
The two biggest palaces are on either side of the Sheesh Mahal Hotel (also an old palace). On your right, as you walk out of the Sheesh Mahal Hotel is the Raj Mahal, built by Rudra Pratap, the first Bundela ruler. This was the king’s home. There is a room where he gave private audiences and several rooms for his queens. Some of the ceilings are painted with Puranic scenes and with floral patterns.

Upon exiting Raj Mahal, make a left and go down the stairs. You will come to the Public Audience Hall. The path then curves and descends, and then goes toward the right. On your left will be the Rai Praveen Mahal (follow the arrows), said to have been built for Maharaja Indramani’s favorite dancing courtesan. You can go up to the top floor.

You then continue on the path and you come to a Gate, which you go through and then go to the right up the hill, passing the camel stables. This brings you to the main door of the Jahangir Mahal Palace. The door may be locked; in which case you may have to be adventurous enough to find a way in. If you are unsuccessful in entering on this side, you need to retrace your steps to the entrance to the Sheesh Mahal Hotel. There are two stone elephants at the entrance, carved to honor Emperor Jahangir on his visit to Orchha in 1606. This is the nicest of the palaces and it is an interesting place to walk around. The Jahangir Mahal has balconies, decorated domes, and walkways. From the east facing second-floor balconies, you can get a good view of the entire Orchha area.

Temples and Royal Chhatris
There are several interesting 17th century temples in the town area. The architecturally interesting, unused Chaturbhuj Temple has large towers and an arching hall. You can climb the stairs in the back to get a good view of the area. It was built to become a place to worship Lord Rama. Maharaja Madhukar Shah obtained a Rama Deity from Ayodhya (Rama’s capital) and carried it back to Orchha. When he arrived, he set the Deity down in his own palace. When he tried to move the Deity again, it refused to move and so the palace became the Ram Raja Temple. Here, Rama is worshiped as king. It is pink and yellow.

The Lakshmi Narayan Temple is on top of a hill, a fifteen-minute walk west of the town. It is built like a fort with high walls surrounding it. There are well-preserved murals painted on the temple’s ceiling, some dating from the 19th century.

The Bundela Royal Chhatris (cenotaphs), south of town on the bank of the Betwa River, is an interesting place to visit. The Bundelas cremated their dead, but built mausoleums for them.

Where to Stay and Eat
Hotel Mansarover (252626), Main Market, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 100/150.
Ram Mandir (252669), across from Mansarovar, has clean rooms for Rs 100/150.
MP Tourism manages two places in Orchha. They can be booked at any MPTDC Tourist Office.
Betwa Cottages,(07680 252618) half a km from the village next to the river, has nice cottages for Rs 700/800 with air-cooling and Rs 1100 with A/C. It has a good restaurant that serves Indian and Chinese.
Hotel Sheesh Mahal (07680 252624)has rooms for Rs 800/1000 and an A/C suite for Rs 2500. Room 1 (the suite) and Room 2 are the best rooms. This is an interesting place with a good atmosphere. It also has a good restaurant. Recommended.
Orchha Resort (0517 252-759) is a luxury place with rooms for Rs 2400/3500. This place has the best rooms in town. It is located right nixt to the river and contains a pool and gym.

Travel
There are regular buses (30 min, every half-hour) and tempos (Rs 8, 45 min) from the Jhansi bus stand traveling the 18km to Orchha. From the Jhansi railway station to Orchha by auto-rickshaw is around Rs 150 and by taxi Rs 350.

If you are coming from Khajuraho, you can get down at the junction for Orchha and catch a tempo the rest of the way (7km).

Sanchi

Population: 6800
Phone Code: 07482

Sanchi, 47km northeast of Bhopal, has the best-preserved Buddhist stupas in India. The Buddhist monuments and sculptures were constructed between the 3rd century BC and the 13th century. The fine quality of Sanchi’s sculptured panels makes them unique in the entire world. This place is not associated with Buddha’s life, but it is important because of the impressive Buddhist monuments located here.

The most interesting places to see are: Stupas 1, 2, and 3, Monasteries 45 and 51, and the Gupta temple (17). In early Buddhism, the Buddha would not be seen in a bodily form and would be depicted through different symbols. Birth is symbolized by a lotus, enlightenment by a bo tree, preaching by the wheel of law, death by stupas, and the first sermon at Deer Park would be symbolized by a deer. Footprints, an empty throne, a stupa, a tree, or a wheel may re-present the Buddha.

Information
Sanchi is a small village with few facilities.
There is a good Sanchi guidebook written by Debala Mitra and published by the Archaeological Survey, describing the site in detail.

Bicycles can be rented for Rs 3 per hour, handy for a trip to Vidisha (10km) or Udaigiri (14km).

Canara Bank changes money.

The site is open from 10 am to 5 pm (sometimes to 6 pm in the winter). It is possible to see all the monuments in two or three hours. Admission: Foreigners/Indians US$5/Rs 15

Archaeological Museum
This museum has a good collection of sculptures from around the site. It has an interesting Ashoka pillar topped with a “Lion Capital,” which serves as the emblem of the Indian Republic. It is similar to the one found in Sarnath.

There are also Hindu sculptures of Vishnu, Lakshmi, Ganesh, and others. Open daily 10 am to 5 pm.

Great Stupa (Stupa 1)
Emperor Ashoka built the foundation of the Great Stupa sometime during the 3rd century BC. A century later it was enlarged and covered with stone. It is 37m (122 ft) in diameter and 16m (52 ft) tall. It is one of the finest examples of Buddhist art in India. It is the Buddhist custom to walk around stupas clockwise.

There are four elaborately carved gateways (toranas) dating to about 450 AD. The gates have two pillars joined by three cross beams. Four statues of Buddha in meditation were installed, one facing each gateway. The four entrances are staggered to keep out evil spirits who are believed to travel only in a straight line. The carvings on the gateways depict Buddha’s life and the tales of the Jataka (stories about the Buddha’s past lives).

The North Gate has carvings depicting Buddha’s pastimes in the Jataka. A Wheel of Law tops it. Buddha walks on water with flames emanating from his feet. A monkey offers a bowl of honey to the Buddha, who is symbolized by a Bo tree.
The East Gate shows Siddharta Gautama (the Buddha as a young prince) starting on his search for enlightenment, symbolized by a riderless horse. It also shows his mother’s dream before Gautama’s birth, of an elephant standing on the moon. On the left pillar he is seen walking on water.

The South Gate shows Gautama’s birth. It also shows scenes of Ashoka’s life as a Buddhist.
The West Gate depicts the Buddha’s seven incarnations. He is depicted as a tree four times, and as a stupa. He had six previous incarnations before he appeared as the Buddha. In a previous incarnation, he took the form of a six-tusked elephant. On the back of the gateway are scenes of the Buddha resisting Mara’s temptations.

Other Places
There are many stupas on the hill dating from the 3rd century BC. Stupa 3 is 50m northeast of the Great Stupa. It is much smaller than the main stupa and contains important relics of two of the Buddha’s intimate disciples. These relics are now kept in a modern Buddhist temple near the main site. They are taken out one day a year in December. Many people come to Sanchi on that day.

Stupa 2, down the hill to the west, is one of the more interesting stupas.

A little right of the South Gate of the Great Stupa is Pillar 10, erected by Ashoka in the 3rd century. Only the base remains. On top of it was once the Lion Capital (now in the museum), the national symbol of India.

There are also several ancient temples and monasteries. To the west of the Great Stupa, down some steps, is Monastery 51, which is in fairly good condition. It has twenty-two small rooms surrounding a central courtyard.

Next to it is the “great bowl” into which food was placed and then distributed to the monks.

Temple 45 (7th to11th centuries), on the east side, has a courtyard with a temple next to it. Only part of the temple spire is left. Temple 18 (7th century) has nine pillars. Temple 31 (7th century) has a statue of Buddha in it.

The 5th century Gupta temple (Temple 17) is one of the earliest temples built in India.

Where to Stay and Eat
There are two good Retiring Rooms for Rs 150 at the railway station.
Mahabodhi Society Guest House (262739) has cell-like rooms for Rs 75/150.
Tourist Cafeteria (266743) has clean rooms for Rs 300/350 (Rs 50 to use the air-cooler). It has a restaurant.
The MPTDC Travellers' Lodge (262723), 200m from the railway station, has big, clean rooms with bath for Rs 450/500, and more deluxe roomss for Rs550//700. It has a restaurant. It is the best place in town, but is often full. Best to reserve a room at least five days in advance at any MPTDC Tourist Office or in Delhi.

There are several food stands near the bus stand.

Travel
Train Sanchi is on the Delhi-Mumbai line, but almost all the trains that stop here are slow passenger trains. First-class passengers who have traveled at least 161km can arrange to have the train make a special stop at Sanchi. The Shatabdi Exp does not stop here, but the Punjab Mail does. The nearest main-line station is Vidisha (10km northeast). There are morning trains from Bhopal (1 to 2 hr) and trains returning in the evening, so Sanchi can easily be visited on a day trip from Bhopal.

Bus and Car There are hourly buses from Bhopal taking two different routes, one takes 1½ hr and the other, traveling via Raisen, takes 2½ hr. Buses depart to Vidisha (10km, every half-hour), and you can take a rickshaw there for Rs 30.

You can hire a car to come here from Bhopal (1½ hr) for Rs 600 roundtrip

Ujjain

Pop: 427,000
Phone Code: 0734

Ujjain is one of the holiest cities in India and is one of the sites for Kumbha-mela. According to the Mahabharata’s Aranya-parva, Ujjain is one of the seven sacred moksa-puris or sapta-puris. The others are Ayodhya, Mathura, Haridwar, Kashi (Varanasi), Kanchipuram, and Dwarka. Ujjain is about 55km north of Indore. It is said that Siva killed the demon Tripura at Ujjain.

According to Indian astrology, zero degrees begins in Ujjain.

Information
The railway runs through the middle of the city. Most of the hotels are located near the railway station. The old city, where most of the temples and the river ghats are located, is in the northwest section of the city. The newer area is located in the southeast section of the city.

There is an MP Tourist Information counter at the railway station. The staff there can arrange for a car rental. State Bank of India, Udwaria Rd, east of the main bazaar.

Ujjain Kumbha-mela
The Kumbha-mela in Ujjain begins on the full moon day in Chaitra (March-April) when Jupiter is in Scorpio and the Sun is in Aries. It continues for a full month, until the full moon day (Purnima) in Vaishakha (April-May). The drops of nectar fall in Ujjain at Ram Ghat, where the Shipra River flows. About 3 million people come for the bathing. The three other Kumbha-melas are held at Allahabad (Prayag), Haridwar, and Nasik. The next Kumbha-mela will be held April-May 2004.

Gopal Mandir
This is a Krishna temple with a half metre (2 ft) tall silver Deity of Gopal Krishna. His altar is made of inlaid marble with silver-plated doors. Maharaja Daulat Rao Scindia’s queen constructed this beautiful temple in the 19th century, and it is located in the bazaar in the center of the city.

The sanctum’s silver-plated doors are said to have been originally in the Somnath Temple in Gujarat. The doors were taken to Ghazni, Afghanistan by Mahmud of Ghazni in 1026, then to Lahore by Mahmud Shah Abdati. It is said that the Maratha leader Mahadji Scindia recovered them and later installed them in this temple.

Mahakaleswar Temple
The Marathas rebuilt this large Siva temple in the 19th century. It contains one of the twelve important Siva Jyotirlingas and attracts thousands of pilgrims. It is by far the most visited temple in Ujjain and is an interesting place to visit. Open to non-Hindus.

Vedh Shala Observatory (Jantar Mantar)
Maharaja Jai Singh built an observatory here in 1730 similar to the ones he built in Jaipur and Delhi. The keeper of the observatory offers guided tours of the observatory and demonstrates how each instrument is used. According to Indian astrology, the first meridian of longitude passes through Ujjain. According to modern calculations, the Tropic of Cancer is just to the north. The observatory is located about 3km from the center of town.

Shipra River and the Ghats
Ujjain is situated on the bank of the Shipra River, one of the westernmost tributaries of the Ganges. It is believed that those who take bath in this river will attain moksha (liberation). Bathing in the Shipra is also said to cure aspirants of fever. The river flows north around the western side of Ujjain, passing through Narasimha Ghat, Ram Ghat, Ganga Ghat, Mangal Ghat, and Siddhavat before reaching Gadhi and Rana Pratap Sagars. It then joins the Chambal River, which flows into the Yamuna, which flows into the Ganges.

The ghats along the river are interesting to walk along, especially early in the morning and at sunset. Ram Ghat, located near the Harsiddhi Temple, is considered important.

Vikram Kirti Mandir
This place houses the Scindia Oriental Research Institute, an archaeological museum, and an art gallery. The Scindia Oriental Institute has a rare collection of 18,000 old palm-leaf and bark-leaf (bhurja patra) manuscripts. There is an illustrated manuscript of the Srimad-Bhagavatam in which gold and silver were employed in the paintings. There is also a rich collection of old Rajput and Mughal style paintings.

Sandipani Muni’s Ashram
Ujjain is where Sandipani Muni instructed Lord xe "Krishna:Ujjain" Krishna and Balarama. Ujjain was called Avantipura when Lord Krishna studied here. Near Sandipani Muni’s ashram is Gomati Kund, the place to which Krishna called the holy rivers so that his guru would not have to go on pilgrimage. Also nearby is Ankapata, where Krishna washed his writing tablets. The numbers 1-100 are found here on a stone, which is believed to have been engraved by Sandipani Muni himself.

Kalideh Palace
This interesting palace of the Mandu Sultans, built in 1458, is located on an island in the middle of the Shipra River. It has a Persian style dome and was restored in 1920 by Madhav Rao Scindia. It is now closed.

Other Places
The Harsiddhi Temple houses the murti of Annapurna (Parvati, the wife of Lord Siva) sitting between Maha-Lakshmi and Maha-Saraswati. According to the Siva Purana, this is where Sati’s elbow dropped after she burned herself in a sacrificial fire. There are two large lamps, which are sensational when lit during Navratri (Dussehra) in Sept-Oct.

There is an enormous Banyan tree at Siddhavat on the banks of the Shipra. It is said that Parvati performed penance there.

According to the Matsya Purana, Mangalnath is the birthplace of Mars. The Navagraha Mandir, dedicated to the nine planets, is situated at Triveni Ghat on the Shipra River.

Near the Mahakaleswar Temple tank, in the Bade Ganeshji Ka Mandir is a large deity of Ganesh known as Chintaman Ganesh. He is seated with his consorts Riddhi and Siddhi.
The ancient Chintaman Ganesh Temple, on the other side of the Shipra River, has intricately carved pillars.

Where to Stay
Most of the hotels are by the railway station and for the most part are reasonably priced.

Vikram (256-2220), opposite the railway station, Subash Rd, is the least expensive, but you should make sure it is decently clean. Rooms are Rs 90/115 and bigger rooms are Rs 150/175 with TV.
Surya Hotel (256-0747) next door, has rooms with hot water from Rs 150/175 to Rs 300/350 with TV.
Chandragupta (561-600) has rooms for Rs 125/150 to Rs 150/225. Free hot water in a bucket. 24-hour checkout. Both these hotels are a good value.
Hotel Rama Krishna (255-7012) has rooms for Rs 350/400 with bath to Rs 650 for an A/C room. It also has some basic rooms for Rs 150/175.
Hotel Ajay (255-0856) has rooms for Rs 160/185 and Rs 325/400 with a TV and air-cooler. It is a decent budget choice and a good value.
Hotel Free India (555-457), next to the railway station, has good, large rooms with hot water for Rs 350. It has a vegetarian restaurant.
Girnar Hotel (25873), a ten-minute walk from the railway station, has clean, quiet rooms for Rs 300/350 and Rs 450 with A/C.
Atlas (25873), Station Rd, Indore Gate, is a well-managed, mid-range place with rooms with bath.
Shirpra Hotel (255-1496 /5) has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 450/550 and Rs 950/1050 with A/C. It is one of the best places in town and is located in a quiet area. To get to this hotel from the railway station, exit at platform 7.
Surana Palace (57411), 23 GDC Rd, is about the same as the Shipra Hotel. It has a nice lawn and large comfortable rooms and luxury suites. Well-managed.

Where to Eat
Chanakya, next to the Hotel Chandragupta and across from the railway station, is a very good vegetarian restaurant.
Next door, the Sudama Restaurant, Subhash Rd, \is also good. It has good vegetarian dishes and ice cream.
New Raj Kumar, 20 Bhaktawar Ganj, is a low-priced vegetarian place by the Surana Palace.
White House, in the Surana Palace Hotel, 23 GDC Rd, has an outdoor restaurant serving good Indian and Chinese food. Not too expensive.

Travel
Train The Malwa Exp #9367 (2.55 pm, 17½ hr) is the fastest train to Delhi. The Malwa Exp #9368 leaves Delhi at 7.15 pm and arrives in Ujjain at 10.35 am via Mathura, Agra (13 hr), Gwalior (10½ hr), Jhansi (9 hr), and Bhopal (4 hr).

The Avantika Exp #2962 (5.30 pm, 12½ hr), goes to Mumbai . You could also take a train to Nagda (1½ hr), then take the Frontier Mail (11 hr, 6 pm) to Mumbai. The Narmada Exp #8233 (5 pm) goes to Bhopal (5 hr) and Jabalpur (13 hr). Indore Narmada Exp #8234 (11 am, 2 hr), Intercity Exp #9204 (8.40 pm, 1¾ hr).

There are three trains daily to Ahmedabad, including the Bhopal-Rajkot Exp #1270 (11.10 am, 9½ hr) and the Sabarmati Exp #9166 (9.05 pm, 11 hr). The Sabarmati Exp #9165 returns to Ujjain from Ahmedabad at 7.55 pm and arrives at 5.35 am. At 6.05 am, the Sabarmati Exp continues on to Varanasi (32½ hr) via Lucknow (22½ hr) and Faizabad (Ayodhya). There are also trains to Agra, Jhansi, and Calcutta.

An auto-rickshaw from the railway station to the Mahkaleshwar Temple should be around Rs 25

Bus There are a number of buses to Indore (2 hr, 55km), and two buses a day to Mandu and Bhopal (5 hr). Sphere: Related Content