Budget hotels Andhra Pradesh

Population: 66 million
Capital: Hyderabad
Area: 276,000 sq km
Best Time to Visit: October to February
Language: Telugu
Literacy Rate: 45%

Andhra Pradesh is located on the eastern coast of India. Maharashtra borders it on the west, Orissa to the north, and Tamil Nadu to the south. The people of Andhra Pradesh speak Telugu. In 1953, Andhra Pradesh became the first state to have its borders designated by language.

Hyderabad is an interesting city. There are some ancient Buddhist sites in Andhra Pradesh, such as Nagarjunakonda and Amaravati, southeast of Hyderabad. In the southeast part of the state is the important temple town of Tirupati, which is one of the most popular temples in India.

During the monsoon the deltas of the Krishna and Godavari rivers may flood disrupting train travel between Calcutta and Chennai. The worst months are October and November.

History
Andhra Pradesh was ruled from the 2nd century BC to the 3rd century AD by the Andhras dynasty, also known as the Satavahanas. In the 7th century the Chalukyas took control of the area to be followed by the Cholas in the 10th century.

In the 13th century the Kakatiyas from Warangal took control. Muslims forces under the Sultans of Delhi started to come into the area. In the beginning of the 14th century they were able to take over the area. After a short while, the Hindu Vijayanagar Empire replaced them.

In the 16th century the Muslim Qutb Shahi dynasty took control of Hyderabad and ruled from the Golconda Fort. In 1687, one of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb’s generals took control of the area, when the then ruler refused to pay tribute to Delhi. After the death of Aurangzeb, the viceroy who used to rule under him took control of the area in 1723 and took the title, “Nizam.” The Nizams ruled under the protection of the British until 1948.

After Independence in 1947, Nizam Usman Ali did not want to merge his kingdom with the rest of India, at which time 85% were Hindus. After one year the Indian army came in and annexed his territory. The Nizam at one time was said to be the richest man in the world. The state of Andhra Pradesh was formed in 1956 by merging the state of Hyderabad to the west, with the section of the Madras Presidency where they spoke Telegu, on the east coast.

Yadagiri-gutta
This place, 60km north of Hyderabad, was named after a sage named Yadava, who performed intense austerities to see Lord Vishnu in his form as Lord Narasimha. Being pleased with him, Lord Vishnu appeared before him as Jwala Narasimha, Gandabheranda Narasimha, and Yogananda Narasimha. He begged the Lord to remain permanently on the hill in these three forms. Yadagiri is the corrupted form of the original name, Yadava-giri. The temple here is on top of a hill.

Lakshmi Narasimha Temple.
There are three forms of Lord Narasimha in this temple—Jwala Narasimha, Gandabheranda Narasimha, and Yogananda Narasimha—each embedded in stone. The oil lamps here are kept burning 24 hours a day. Many people visit this temple.

It is said that whatever a sincere devotee prays for here will not go unfulfilled; no pilgrimage to this place is made in vain. It is also stated that incurable diseases will be remedied here if one worships the Lord for a week or two, or even better, for forty days, with faith and determination.

The temple is situated upon a 90m (300 ft) hill. At the foot of this hill is a gateway with a gopuram called Vaikuntha-dwara, or “gateway to Vaikuntha,” the spiritual world.

Where to Stay
For overnight stays there are basic dharamshalas at the top of the hill and a few basic, although not cheap, hotels at the bottom of the hill. There are only basic eating places here.

Travel
Buses leave regularly from Hyderabad (2 hr) from platform 48 or 50 from the new APSRIC bus station, Gowliguda, about every half-hour. There is a big picture of Narasimha at the platform. Once you get to Yadagiri-gutta, the last stop, you can walk up, get on a crowded bus, or take an auto-rickshaw to the top of the hill. It’s about a half-hour walk.

Warangal
Pop: 540,000
Phone Code: 08712

Warangal, 150km northeast of Hyderabad, was the capital of the Hindu Kakatiya dynasty. They ruled a good part of present Andhra Pradesh from the 12th to the beginning of the 14th centuries, at which time they were defeated by the Muslim Tughlaqs of Delhi. This place can be visited on a long day trip from Hyderabad.

Practical Information
The State Bank of Hyderabad, opposite the Tourist Information Bureau changes money. Open Mon-Fri 10:30 am to 2 pm

Fort and Chalukyan Temples
There is an interesting fort located here. An interesting temple is the Swayambhu Temple (1162), which was originally dedicated to Lord Siva. Over the years much of the temple has been defaced. There is a 14th century Siva temple nearby. There is also the 11th century Shirab Khan, the Audience Hall.

The Chalukyan-style Thousand Pillared Temple is at the base of Hanamkonda Hills, 5km north of the fort. It has three shrines dedicated to Vishnu, Siva and Surya. It has some excellent sculptures on it and some intricately carved pillars. There is the Bhadrakali Temple on top of the hill.

Admission Rs 100. An auto-rickshaw from Warangal to the fort is around Rs 25-30.

Where to Stay and Eat
There are Retiring Rooms at the railway station for Rs 75/125 and Rs 120/130 with A/C.
Vikas Lodge (254194) has basic rooms with bath for Rs 1250/150.
Vijay Lodge (256-1781), Station Rd, has decent rooms for Rs 150/200 and a room with a TV for Rs 300. Has hot water in the morning and some rooms have western toilets..
Hotel Shanthi Krishna, Station Rd, near the post office, had rooms for Rs 150/200.
Hotel Ashok, (257-8491) Main Rd, Hanamkonda, 5km from the railway station, has rooms for Rs 300/500 and with A/C for Rs 650/800.
Hotel Ratna (256-0645), MG Road, near the railway station, Hanamkona, has rooms with hot water in the morning for Rs 300/350 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. Accepts credit cards.

Travel
Warangal is a main stop on the railway line. There are trains to Hyderabad, Secunderabad (3 hr, 150km), and Vijayawada (4 hr, 210km). There are regular buses to Hyderabad (3½ hr).

The bus stand and railway stations are opposite each other. You can take bus #28 from the station to the Fort (5km). If you take a rickshaw to the Fort, it is best to get it there and back, plus waiting time.

You can rent a bike on station road to get around for Rs 10 per hour or Rs 45 for the day.

Nagarjunakonda
Nagarjunakonda was one of the main Buddhist centers in South India from the 2nd century BC until the 3rd century AD. It is located around 165km southeast of Hyderabad on the Krishna River, near Vijayapuri. The site was rediscovered in 1926 after being covered for around 1600 years, and was then excavated. During which time the ruins of some stupas, chaityas and viharas were found.

The Ikshwaku dynasty constructed an important city here around the 2nd century BC. The Pallavas took control of the area around the middle of the 4th century and at that time it lost its importance.

The original site of the city was covered after the area was flooded, when the Nagarjuna Sagar Dam was built in 1960. Many of the buildings that were found were taken to and then reconstructed on Nagarjuna Hill, which is now an island in the middle of the lake. Nine structures were rebuilt and there are replicas of what was found constructed on the island. Also found were some outstanding memorial pillars and excellent ancient sculptures. On the hill was a 14th century fort and in some places the walls are still over 6m (20 ft) high. There are two ancient temples, dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, near where the museum is located.

The Maha-chaitya Stupa (3rd century AD), was originally built over some of the Buddha’s relics (said to be his tooth). Nearby is a large statue of a standing Buddha.

Also found were some jewelry, coins, statues and some impressive white marble sculptures of the Buddha, and these items are now in a museum (Admission Rs 100; Sat-Thur 9:30 am to 4 pm) on the island, which is open daily except Fri. In the museum is a 3m (10 ft) high standing Buddha. Most of the reconstructed structures are near the museum.

Boats depart from the village of Vijayapuri, which is on the shore of the lake, 10km from the island, at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm (Rs 50). The boats return from the island after just a half-hour, which is enough time to see everything quickly. If you want to spend more time, you could take the morning boat and return on the afternoon boat.

There is a detailed Archaeological Survey of India book about this place. You can hire a guide at the tourist office (2133), Project House, Hill Colony. Weekends and holidays can be really crowded here.

Nearby, the Nagarjuna Sagar Dam (125m high) is built across the Krishna River.

Where to Stay
The APTDC Vijay Vihar Complex (08680 276633 277361), near the boat jetty at Vijayapuri, has good-size rooms with A/C for Rs 700/900 and cottages for Rs 550. It can be booked at any APTDC office in advance. The are good views from the rooms. Has a restaurant serving both veg and non-veg.
Punnami Hotel (08641 242742), across from the boat jetty, has good-size, clean rooms with hot water for Rs 400/700. The front rooms have good views.
Project House (08680 276540), in Hill Colony 4km away, has rooms for Rs 250/350.
Local people rent out rooms in their house for Rs 150-200 per day.

Travel
The simplest way to come here is on a tour organized by APTTDC from Hyderabad (040 2345 3036. The tour departs from the Yatri Niwas Hotel in Hyderabad at 6.30 am and returns at 9.30 pm. It costs Rs 3000, which includes lunch. The tour goes to the Nagarjunakonda Museum, Pylon (a 3rd century granite Buddhist monolith), Ethipothala Waterfalls and Nagarjuna Sagar.

You can get a bus to here from Hyderabad (5 hr), Guntur and Vijayawada (6 hr, a direct bus at 11 am). The nearest railway station is in Macherla (22km), which connect to Guntur. There are regular buses from there to Nagarjuna Sagar.

Nandyal
The Mahanandi Temple is 16km from Nandyal and about 280km south of Hyderabad. It is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Siva. The linga is unique—a rough, uncut rock with two cavities. The priests allow you to touch the linga. There is a huge Nandi in front of the main shrine. Many people include this temple in a visit to Srisailam.

This temple is unique for South India because the vimana (tower) over the linga is built in the North Indian style. The temple’s main gate faces west. There is a tank here which is always 1.5m (5 ft) deep. The mystery is that no one knows how the water enters the tank—only that it is always the same level and crystal clear.

There is a railway station in Nandyal.

Tadpatri (Tadapatri)
Pop: 71,000 Area Code: 08558

There are two interesting temples in Tadpatri built by the Vijayanagar kings.

The Venkataramana Temple (mid-16th century) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It has an impressive gopuram and beautiful sculptures of the pastimes of Krishna and Rama. This temple is about 1km northeast of the bus station.

One km north of this temple is the Ramalingeswara Temple, situated on the south bank of the Pennar River. It has two impressive gopurams, outstanding sculptures, and pilastered walls encrusted with friezes of jewels, petals, and miniature scrollwork. The temple’s main shrine is dedicated to Lord Siva. There is a Siva-linga here whose stand is filled with water. There are also two other shrines—one dedicated to Parvati and the other to Rama, Laksman, and Sita.

Tadpatri is about halfway between Hyderabad and Bangalore. It is about 120km southwest of Ahovalam.

Srikurman (Kurma-ksetra)
There is a temple in Srikurman dedicated to Kurmadeva. Srikurman is located 100km northeast of Visakhapatnam and 200km southwest of Puri, on the shore of the Bay of Bengal, 15km east of the town of Srikakulam. Srikakulam is a fairly large town and the facilities there are decent. Srikurman is a small town with virtually no facilities, so it is best to stay in Srikakulam and travel to the Sri Kurma Temple during the day. This is an area where few foreigners visit.

Kurma Temple
This architecturally beautiful temple is said to be the only temple of the tortoise incarnation on earth. The present temple is at least 700 years old; the original temple is said to have been built in 200 AD.

Sri Kurma, a Deity of Lord Vishnu in the form of a kurma, tortoise, is one of Vishnu’s ten incarnations, collectively known as the Dasavatara. The Deity consists of two stones, about two feet long, emerging from the ground, which represent Sri Kurma’s head and body. The temple is located on the shore of Swatha Puskarini Lake. There is a large festival in February, at which time thousands of people come to bathe in the Swatha Puskarini Lake.

To the left of the main temple is a small temple dedicated to the four-armed form of Bilvamangala. It is said that Bilvamangala’s body is buried below this temple. On a hill in Kurma-ksetra is a small shrine that houses the footprints of Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, who visited Kurma-ksetra in 1512

Nearby
At Arasavalli, 1½ km from Srikakulam, there is a famous Surya Temple, dedicated to the xe "sun-god" sun-god. It is said that this temple was originally established by Lord Indra, king of heaven The deity is carved from black granite.

Aruna, the sun-god’s charioteer, is the older brother of Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s carrier. Yelamanchili Pullaji Panthulu reconstructed the present temple in 1778.

This place is between Srikakulam and the Kurma Temple, and it is convenient to stop and visit this temple on the way to the Kurma Temple.

Where to Stay and Eat
Right next to the railway station, 15km from Srikakulam and 30km from Srikurman, is the Raja Lodge, with really basic rooms for Rs 100/125.
Srikakulam, about 15km west of Srikurman, has some decent places.
Lodge Priyadarshini (22770), Krishna Park Junction, Palakonda Rd, has good rooms for Rs 175/200, and Rs 300 with A/C. This is one of the best values in town.
Lodge Rajkamal (22164), Palakonda Rd, has rooms for Rs 100/140, deluxe rooms for Rs 175, and Rs 300 with A/C.
The best place in town is the Hotel Nagavali (22956), Ring Rd. Rooms are Rs 250 and Rs 500 for with A/C. It has a decent veg restaurant.

Travel
Train The closest railway station to Srikurman is called Srikakulam Railway Station and is on the main Chennai-Calcutta line. It is located about 15km west of the city. It is about 30km from the railway station to the Sri Kurma Temple.

Road There are regular buses from Vijayawada (3 hr) to Srikakulam.

You can hire a motor rickshaw to bring you from the bus stand in Srikakulam to the Kurma Temple and back, stopping xe "Simhachalam" on the way at the Sun temple at Arasavalli, for Rs 150. There are buses to the Kurma Temple from the bus station in Srikakulam. Since Srikurman is a small town, taking an auto rickshaw is more convenient than taking a bus, because you may have to wait a long time to get back to Srikakulam.

To go between the railway and bus stations there are regular, very crowded buses, and an auto rickshaws is around Rs 100 (20 min).

Nagalapuram
In the Veda Narayana Temple here, the presiding Deity is Lord Matsya. This temple is reputed to be the only Matsya temple in India. The Deity has the head and torso of Lord Vishnu and golden humanlike feet, but the priest can move the golden feet aside to expose the Lord’s fish tail.

Bhadrachalam
Bhadrachalam is located on the bank of the Godavari River, 180km due west of Visakhapatnam. The important Sri Rama Temple is located here. The main Deity is the four-armed form of Lord Rama called Chaturbhuja Rama. This is where Rama and Sita are said to have lived before Sita was kidnapped by Ravana. It is also said that the temple is located near the point where Rama crossed the Godavari on his journey to Lanka to find Sita. At that time, a sage named Bhadra lived here, and Lord Rama came just to give him darshan. This temple is named Bhadrachalam after this sage.

Travel
You can first go to Burgampad and from there to Bhadrachalam. You can also take a train to Rajahmundry, which is on the Chennai-Calcutta line. From there you take a boat about 70km up the Godavari River.

Mangalagiri
Mangalagiri is situated about 12km south of Vijayawada. There is a major Lord Narasimha temple here. The Deity is called Pana Narasimha (Panakala Narasimha), because he is believed to drink half the quantity of pana, or cold drink, offered by worshipers. It is said that when the Lord is offered sugar syrup, he does not take more than half. The temple is built around a self-manifest mouth of Lord Narasimha. Over the mouth, completing the face of the Lord, is a brass mask with an angry expression. A chakra and club are also self-manifested in the stone.

The temple is on a hill and is approached by ascending 600 steps. This temple has the highest gopuram in the state of Andhra Pradesh. Inside this temple there is a conch shell presented by the late king of Tanjor, and this shell, according to the locals, was used by Lord Krishna.

The temple priest takes a pot of sweet jaggery water and pours half of the drink with a conchshell into the Lord’s mouth. The jaggery water is made of liquefied gur-water (sugar), camphor, black pepper, and cardamom. Half of whatever quantity of jaggery water that is prepared is offered to the Lord and the rest is returned to the offerer as mahaprasad. While the water is being poured into the mouth of the Lord, you hear a gurgling sound as someone might make while drinking. Even though there is so much sugar water offered here, there is not a single ant on the hill.

It is said that Lord Narasimha rested here after killing Hiranyakasipu, and Lakshmi Devi then gave him a drink to quench his thirst. At the bottom of the hill there is an ancient Lakshmi Narasimha temple. Mangalagiri is mentioned as a holy place in the Skanda and Brahma-vaivarta Puranas.

Sri Chaitanya came here in 1512. There is an imprint of his feet and a verse dedicated to him in the temple. During the month of March, a large festival takes place in this temple.

Travel
The best way to get here is to first go to Vijayawada or Guntur, and from either of these places there are frequent buses.

Amaravati
Amaravati is the site of an ancient Buddhist center, which was the old capital of the Satvahanas. It is a small village 30km west of Vijayawada on the bank of the Krishna River. There are the remains of the 2,000 year old Great Buddhist Stupa that is believed to have been as large of the one in Sanchi. It had carved pillars, which depicted the pastimes of Lord Buddha.

There is a small interesting archaeological museum (daily except Fri 10 am to 5 pm), which displays some ancient Buddhist carvings and other items. Admission is Rs 100 for foreigners and Rs 5 for Indians.

Where to Stay
The APTDC Punnami Guesthouse (0864-255-5332) has basic rooms for Rs 325 and dorm beds for Rs 75.

Getting Here
To get here from Vijayawada you take a bus to Guntur (30 min, every half-hour) and from there take a bus to Amaravati (1½ hr). The trip from Vijayawada via Guntur to Amaravati is 65km.

The APTDC runs a bus tours (Rs 75) and boat tour (Rs 85) to here from Vijayawada. You can take a APTDC boat tour to here which departs from the Krishnaveni Hotel in Visakhapatnam near the main bridge over the Krishna River for Rs 60. It departs when the river is high enough, which it often is not.

Lepakshi
The famous Veerabhadra Temple is located here. It possesses some of the best murals from the period of the Vijayanagar kings. Lord Rama, Lord Papanaseswara (Siva), Veerabhadra, and Durga are all worshiped here. There is also a deity of Gopala Swami (Krishna). In the Skanda Purana, Lepakshi is said to be one of the 108 important pilgrimage sites dedicated to Lord Siva. Narrative reliefs on the south wall depict the pastimes of Lord Siva, including Arjuna’s penance.

It is said that Jatayu fell here after fighting with Ravana. This is a small village located 17km east of Hindupur. Hindupur is on the Hyderabad-Bangalore train line, about 100km due north of Bangalore in Andhra Pradesh.

In the temple, the shrine of Lord Vishnu, faces Lord Siva with Veerabhadra in the center. The pillars in the Natya-mandapa are intricately carved. The largest xe "Nandi" Nandi in India is located 200m east of the temple. It is carved out of a monolithic rock and is 5m (17 ft) high and 8m (27 ft) in length. Apart from being famous for this huge Nandi, the temple is well known for its intricate sculptures and excellent murals that include Lord Krishna’s and Lord Rama’s pastimes. These murals have elegant line-work and vibrant natural colors, and the costumes and facial expressions have outstanding detail.

The treasurer of the king of Vijayanagar used taxes collected on the king’s behalf to build the temple, while the king was away in Vijayanagar. When the king returned and found his treasury empty, he ordered the treasurer to be blinded. The treasurer blinded himself and dashed his eyes against the wall of the temple. There is a wall near the Kalyana-mandapa that has two dark stains said to be from his eyes. That is why the village is called “Lepa-akshi” (Lepakshi), “the village of the blinded eye.”

Opposite the temple is a Rest House (only two rooms). You can also stay in Hindupur, where there are several hotels near the State bus stand.

Nellore
Nellore is situated 3½ hours north of Chennai by train.

Ranganatha Temple
This temple was built about 1070. It is on the bank of the River Pennar. The temple has a 110-year-old, 31m (95 ft) high gopuram covered with hundreds of forms of Lord Vishnu. The main Deity, Garbhodakashayi Vishnu reclining on his couch of Ananta Sesa, is 3m (10 ft) long.

Where to Stay
Hotel Simhapuri (27041), Railway Station Road, has rooms with hot water for Rs 300/400 and Rs 600 with A/C.
Hotel Shivam International (27181; fax 24471), 18/1 Achari St, has rooms with hot water for Rs 250/400 and Rs 600 with A/C.

Puttaparthi
Area Code: 08555

Located in the southwest corner of Andhra Pradesh on the border of Karnataka, Puttaparthi is where the main ashram of Shri Sathya Sai Baba is located. Sai Baba (born Satyanarayana Raju) was born here on November 23, 1926. At the age of 14 he stated that he was an incarnation of Sai Baba, a famous saint from Shirdi in Maharashtra, who had died eight years before Satya Sai Baba was born.

The ashram was established in 1950 and now fifty years later, Sai Baba has millions of followers, including a large following of western devotees. He produces vibhuti, sacred ash, which is said to have curative powers.

The ashram is a very large, peaceful place and can facilitate many thousands of people. Sai Baba stays here most of the time (July to March). He also goes to Whitefields Ashram, near Bangalore and sometimes to Kodaikanal in Tamil Nadu during the summer season. A major event here is the birthday of Sai Baba, when he addresses the assembled devotees. Hundreds of thousands of people come for the event.

There is a museum (daily 10 am to noon), with an exhibit on the major religions of the world. There are verses from different sacred books, with comments by Sai Baba.

Darshan
The main reason that devotees come here is to get darshan of Satya Sai Baba. They are twice daily 6.45 to 7 am and 3.45 to 4 pm. People start coming an hour before the darshans. A lottery system chooses who sits in the front.

Where to Stay
There are large ashrams here where most people stay, four in a room for foreigners. The ashrams are divided by sex, except for families. You can not book a room in advance, but you can call the secretary’s office (287583) to see if rooms are available.
Sai Ram Lodge (87412) has rooms for Rs 200.
Hotel Sai Sree Nivas, Main Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 250/400.
Sai Towers (87270) has comfortable rooms for Rs 900.
Sri Sathya Sai Village (044 459-951; fax 489-6069), 2km from the ashram going toward the airport, has A/C rooms for Rs 800 and Rs 1200 including meals.

Where to Eat:
Big Pizza Net Café, 6-176,Beside Bus station, Hours: 5:00 am to 9 pm. Vegetarian Continental and Chinese , and International. Mostly vegan. Has a large selection of interesting vegetarian Pizza’s. Soups, salads, whole-wheat bread, a good selection of, fresh fruit salad with youghurts, sandwiches, Chinese dishes, Italian pastas.

Local Travel
You should not pay more Rs 20 to go anywhere in town by autorickshaw. Sai Maaruthi Travels (28811; 1Email: saimarutittravel@yahoo.com) Sai Lakshmi Shopping complex, Main Rd, accross from the ashram, rents out cars.

Travel
It is best to come here from Bangalore, which is 4 hours south by car. Indian Airlines has flights to here from Mumbai ($165) and Chennai.

A train to here from Bangalore take four hours: A taxi to here from Bangalore cost Rs 1100 to Rs 1400. There are buses to Bangalore (4 hr, 5 daily), Hyderabad (10 hr, 3 daily) and Chennai (11 hr, 1 daily). There are regular buses to Dharmavaram (42km), which is where the nearest railway station is located.

Ahovalam is said to be the place where Lord Vishnu accepted the half-man, half-lion form of Lord Narasimha in order to defeat the demon Hiranyakasipu. Ahovalam is 49km south of Nandyal Railway Station and about 300km south of Hyderabad.

Ahovalam is the only place in India where all nine forms of Lord Narasimha, Nava Narasimha, are worshiped. The nine (nava) forms of Narasimha are: (1) Prahlada-varada Narasimha or Lakshmi Narasimha, (2) Chatravata Narasimha, (3) Yogananda Narasimha, (4) Karanda Narasimha, (5) Krodha Narasimha, (6) Guha Narasimha, (7) Jwala Narasimha, (8) Malola Narasimha, and (9) Pavana Narasimha. The Narasimhadeva Deity in the Ugra Narasimha Temple in Upper Ahovalam is said to be self-manifested (swayambhu). Sri Chaitanya visited this pilgrimage place.
Ahovalam is a small village, and few foreigners visit, because it is out of the way.

Information and Guides
To fully explore both Upper and Lower Ahovalam takes about two days. Regular buses leave Lower Ahovalam every twenty minutes to Upper Ahovalam (8km).

If you want to see the pillar from which Lord Narasimha appeared, it is best to have a guide, as it is difficult to get there without one. You can hire a guide at the small tea stall next to the entrance of the Ugra Narasimha Temple.

The Prahlada-varada Narasimha Temple in LowerAhovalam and the Ugra Narasimha Temple in Upper Ahovalam are major temples with formal worship. The other temples in the area have little formal worship and few visitors. Some are difficult to reach.

Lower Ahovalam
The impressive and beautiful 800-year-old Prahlada-varada Narasimha Temple is in the town of Lower Ahovalam, near the bus stand. This temple is dedicated to the aspect of Lord Narasimha blessing Prahlada. To your right when you enter the temple are eight pillars, each intricately carved with one of Narasimha’s nine forms.

The temple dedicated to Chatravala Narasimha is about 2km from the bus stand under a pippal tree. About 4km up the hill to Upper Ahovalam are the Karanda Narasimha and Yogananda Narasimha Temples. It is said that Lord Narasimha taught Prahlada several yogic postures here, which is why the Lord is known here as Yogananda Narasimha. It is best to hire a guide if you wish to visit these temples.

Upper Ahovalam
The elaborately decorated temple that contains the fierce form of Ugra Narasimha is located near the bus stand in Upper Ahovalam. This temple is dedicated to the form of Sri Narahari who emerged from the pillar to kill Hiranya­kasipu. This temple has a mandapa (hall) and gopuram. A few metres from the Ugra Narasimha Deity is Guha Narasimha, who is in a little cave. Guha means cave. There is also a Sudarshan Yantra to the right of the Deity in another room. There is a small darshan fee charged at this temple.

If you leave from the back entrance of this temple and walk ten minutes, you come to the Krodha Narasimha Temple, where the Lord is worshiped in His boar form. There is a temple cave of Varaha Narasimha here. Varaha, the boar incarnation of Lord Krishna, killed Hiranyakasipu’s younger brother, Hiranyaksa, thus incurring the wrath and hatred of Hiranyakasipu. Thus the two incarnations, Narasimha and Varaha, responsible for destroying the two demon-brothers, have been installed together in this temple.

The Malola Narasimha Temple is about 2km from here. The Deity here is said to be in santa-rupa, in sport with Lakshmi.

About a half-hour walk up the hill on the way to the pillar is the Jwala Narasimha Temple, where the Ugrakala form of the Lord is found. This is said to be the actual spot where Lord Narasimha tore Hiranyakasipu apart. This Deity is located in a cave overlooking a steep cliff. You need a guide to reach the place, which is at the end of a difficult climb.

Looming fifteen stories into the sky over Ahovalam is the ugra-stambha, the pillar from which Lord Narasimha appeared. You receive your first sight of the pillar after walking about a half-hour from where the bus lets you off at Upper Ahovalam. You will need the help of a guide to reach the pillar, as the trek takes about two hours. It is a hard climb directly up the mountain’s side.

To see the Pavana Narasimha Temple where the Shakta form of worship of the Lord is a couple of hours walk (8km) from the main Ugra Narasimha Temple, in a different direction from the other temples.

Other Places
It is said that at Rakta-kunda, Lord Narasimha washed his hands after killing the demon Hiranyakasipu and interestingly, the water is still red as a result of this pastime. The Rama-tirtha tank is 8km from Lower Ahovalam.

Where to Stay and Eat
There is a small Government Tourist Rest House with rooms for Rs 100/125 near the bus stand at Lower Ahovalam. During the day there may not be anyone there, but a man in the small house to the right of the Rest House has a key and can let you in. The Rest House manager will show up later in the day.

There are a few guest houses near the temple in Lower Ahovalam with rooms for Rs 100/150. There is also a larger Rest House where the bus lets you off at Upper Ahovalam.

There is a small restaurant by the bus stand. There is not much in the way of food or drink for sale in this town. Bottled water may not be available and there is not a good selection of fruit.

Travel
Ahovalam is located halfway between Chennai and Hyderabad. To get to Ahovalam you first have to travel to Allagudda, then take the small road going northeast to Ahovalam (40km).

Rail There is a railway station at Cuddapah, which is a stop on the Chennai-Mumbai route. From there you get a bus to Allagudda about 60km north and then another bus to Ahovalam.

There is also a railway station at Dhone. From there you take a bus to Ahovalam via the towns of Banganapalli and Koilkuntla.

Bus To get a bus to Ahovalam, you first take a bus to Allagudda (1 hr), which is on the main road halfway between Hyderabad and Chennai (Tirupati). To get to Ahovalam from Srisailam takes about 10 hours. To get to Hampi from here you have to take three or four buses and the trip takes about 12 hours. There is a direct bus to Tirupati (7 hr) and Chennai (11 hr) departing around 5.30 pm from Lower Ahovalam.

Pop: 5.5 million
Phone Code: 040

Hyderabad, the capital city of Andhra Pradesh, was founded by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the Sultan of Golconda, in 1591. It is the fifth largest city in India.

Its twin city, Secunderabad, is located 10km north, and the large Golconda Fort is located about 10km west. Between the 15th and 19th centuries, Hyderabad was ruled by Muslim leaders known as Nizams, even though the Hindu population was predominant.

At one time Hyderabad was a center for some of the greatest jewelry design and art work in all of India. Hyderabad is still famous for its art, jewelry, poetry and architecture. The wealth and grandeur of the collections in Hyderabad’s museums can easily rival some of the greatest museum collections in Europe.

Orientation
Hussain Sagar, a large artificial lake is between Hyderabad (to the south) and Secunderabad (to the north). There are two main railway stations, one north in Secunderabad and the other south in Hyderabad. The main hotel area is in the Abids and Nampally area, which are located between the Hyderabad railway station and the GPO to the east. The river Musi goes through the south part of the city. The bus station is on the other side of the Musi River, in south Hyderabad.

Most of the monuments and museums are located south of Hussain Sagar in Hyderabad. Golconda Fort and the tombs are located 10km west of the city.

Information
The Government of India Tourist Office (2326 1360. 2781 0037) Netaji Bhavan, two flights up, 26 Himayatnagar Rd, is open Mon to Fri 10 am to 6 pm. They give out a good free map of Hyderabad and are informative. There are tourist counters at the Hyderabad and Secun­derabad railway stations.

The Andhra Pradesh Travel and Tourist Development Corporation (APTTDC) has two offices. One is in Hyderabad (2345 3036' Email: apttdc@satyam.net.in) Tankbund Rd. opposite BRK (Mon to Sat 8 am to 7pm). You can book city tours and APTTDC hotels here. The other office (3782 6375) is next to the APTTDC’s Yatri Niwas Hotel on Sardar Patel Rd in Secunderabad (7 am to 7 pm). There are also tourist counters at the airport, Hyderabad railway station and the Secunderabad railway station.

Forest Office 92335 5061), AG;s Office rd, issue permits to wildlife sanctuaries.

There is a good monthly guide, Channel 6 (Rs 20), which list events in Hyderabad. It can be purchased at bookshops and some hotels.

Tours
APTTDC organizes a daily tour (Rs 100) of the city which goes to Golconda Fort, Qutb Shahi Tombs, Salar Jung Museum, Buddha Purnima, Mecca Masjid, Nehru Zoo, Charminar and the Birla Temple. It begins at the Yatri Niwas Hotel at 7.45 am and then picks up passengers at the Secunderabad railway station and ends at 5.30 pm. It is a good tour. (Rs 175). They also have a day tour that goes to Ramoji Film City (Rs 375)

APTTDC also has an evening tour (Rs 150 includes a ticket for the Sound and Light Show) that goes to Lumbini Park, Qutb Shahi tombs, Golconda Fort and the Sound and Light Show at the fort. The tour begins at the Yatri Niwas Hotel at 2 pm and ends at 9 pm.

Andhra Pradesh Tourism operates tours around South India. One tour that leaves on Friday afternoon and returns on Monday night provides a nice weekend excursion to Tirupati, Kalahasti, Mangapuram, and Tiruchenur. The bus trip to Tirupati takes 14 hours.

Another tour goes to Srisailam, six hours each way. It departs at noon on Saturday and returns at 9 pm Sunday.

There is a 7-day pilgrimage tour that goes to Bhadra­chalam, Simha­chalam, Vijayawada, Tirupati, Kanchipuram and Srisailam.

Money
Thomas Cook (2329 6521), ,1st floor, Nasi Arcade, AG's Office Rd, just south of Secretariat Rd 1.5km north of the railway station, changes most currencies quickly and efficiently. They charge a Rs 20 fee to change travelers cheques other than their own. Open Mon to Sat 9.30 am to 5.30 pm.

Synergy Forexpress, 62 Sarojini Devi Rd, near Gangaram’s, in Secunderabad, changes most currencies. Open daily 9 am to 7.30 pm.

The State Bank of India (Mon to Fri 10.30 am to 2.30 pm, Sat until 12.30 pm), Mahipatram Rd, and the Bank of Baroda by Abids Circle, both change money.

American Express (2323 3689), Chapel Rd.

Andhra Bank, Sultan Bazaar off Nehru Rd, and HDFC Bank, MPM Mall, at MG and SP Roads, gives advances on MasterCard and Visa.

The are ATM machines all over town.

Post, Phone and Internet
The GPO is at Abids Circle, Hyderabad. It is open for poste restante Mon to Fri 10 am to 3 pm, Sat 10 am to 1 pm. Postal Code 500001. The main post office is just south of Sadar Patel Rd, Secunderabad.

Doorshanchar Bhavan, Station Rd, by the Annapurna Hotel, is a good place to make international calls. Open Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm.

Yahoo Citi, above the British Airlines office in Abid. In Secunderabd the Chandraloka Complex, SD Rd has severl places for Internet.Keerthi Designers, near to the Residency (Rs 25 per hr)

Bookshops & Cultural Centers
AA Hussain & Co, 5-8-551 Arastu Trust Building, MG Rd, Abids, and Ashah Books, off Mahatma Gandhi Rd, near the Hotel Emerald, are decent. Walden’s, 6-3-871 Greenlands Rd, Begumpet, between Abids and the Airport, has a good selection of books. Gangarams (820-691), 62 Sarojini Devi Rd, Secunderabad.

British Library (2323 0774), Secretariat Rd, has books, and recent British newspapers and magazines (Tue to Sat 11 am to 6 pm). You have to be a British citizen or a member to get in.

Alliançe Francaise (2770 0734) shows weekly French movies. 10-2-9 Rd No 16, West Marredpally, Secunderabad. Hours; Mon-Fri 9 am to 5 pm

Max Mueller Bhavan, Eden Bagh, Ramkote, has German cultural events.

Medical
Tropical Diseases Hopital in Nallakunta (040 2766 7843). CDR Hospital (2322 1221) in Himayatnagar. Gandhi Hospital (2770 2222) in Secunderabad. Apollo Pharmacy (2523 0774) is open 24 hours.

Travel Agencies.
Two travel agencies are Sheriff Travels, Basheer Bagh; and Sita World Travels, Hyderguda and Chapel Rd.

Golconda Fort
This impressive fort, 10km west of Hyderabad, was the capital of the seven Qutb Shahi kings from 1512 to the end of the 16th century, at which time the capital moved to Hyderabad. Its outer walls are as high as 18m. It has 8 huge gates (four still used) with ele­phant spikes and had 87 bastions for cannons. Some of the cannons are still on the walls. In the fort are temples, the Hall of Public Audiences, mosques, the Rani Mahal, and ruined palaces. The perimeter of the fort is over 5km. After two sieges on the fort, the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb took the fort, and the kingdom reached its end.

Golconda was famous as the market for the neighboring diamond mines. Some of the famous diamonds that came from here are the Orloff Diamond (Catherine the Great), the Hope Diamond, Kohinoor (British Crown), and the diamonds on the Peacock Throne (Shah of Persia).

You enter the Bala Hissar Gate. It is said that if you clap your hands at the entrance of this gate it can be heard at the Durbar Hall, on top of the hill. So you will hear a lot of clapping. On the right is the mortuary bath, where the bodies of nobles would be bathed before being buried. If you follow the path you come to the residences of the ministers, Madanna and Akkana. You then start walking up to the Durbar Hall.

To reach the Durbar Hall, where you can get a great view of the surrounding area and the fort, is about a 1000-step climb, which takes about 30 minutes. Near the top is the Mosque of Ibrahim Qutub Shah. Nearby, is a temple dedicated to Mahakali (a form of Durga). At the top of the hill you come to the three-storey Durbar Hall. It is said that if you clap your hands at Durbar Hall it will reverberate at 5 places along the fort’s walls. There is also the ruins of the Queen’s Palace.

The fort is open daily 9 am to 6 pm;Admission foreigner/Indian Rs 200/2. Guides cost about Rs 150 for a 1 1/2 hour tour but may start by asking Rs 300 for a tour.

There is a Sound and Light Show every evening: Nov to Feb 6.30 pm, March to Oct 7 pm, 1 hr; Adults Rs 30, children Rs 20. English show is only on Wed and Sun.

To get here you can take buses #119, #142 or #80R from Nampally, near the railway station in Hyderabad. From Secunderabad you take #80D and from Charminar #66G.An autorickshaw from Abids should be around Rs 175 return which includes 1 1/2 waiting time.

You can buy a detailed booklet, which includes a map, at the fort from vendors. It takes 2 to 3 hours to see the fort.

Qutb Shahi Tombs
These elegant tombs, located about 1½ km northwest of the Balahisar Gate of the Golconda Fort, contains the remains of seven of the rulers of the Qutb Shahi kingdom. Each tomb is built on a square base and has a dome on top. They have outstanding stonework and are designed with lotus decorations and leaves. There is an ornamental coffin on top and the real remains are below.

Open daily except Friday 9.30 am to 4.30 pm. Admission Rs 3

Salar Jung Museum
This huge museum has over 35,000 exhibits from all over the world. It has an incredible collection of Chola sculptures, weapons, metal­wares, textiles, ivory, and jade. The exhibits were collected by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), the Prime Minister (wazir) of the Nizam and his son and grandson. It is easily one of the best museums in India.

In the Ivory Room, Room 14, there is a solid ivory chair given to Tipu Sultan by Louis XV. In Room 17, there are some outstanding modern Indian paintings by Abanindranath Tagore, Ravi Varma and K Hebbar. Room 18 has some good miniature paintings. In the Jade Room, there are the swords and clothing of the Mughal emperors and Tipu Sultan. In Room 29, there are some outstanding old manuscripts, including a copy of the Koran signed by Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. There is an ancient sculpture collection and some great picchwais, temple hangings depicting the pastimes of Krishna.

The museum is located south of the Musi River on Salar Jung Marg, at CI Badari Malakpet (523-211). It is open daily except Fridays and government holidays from 10 am to 5 pm; Admission foreigner/Indian Rs 150/5, children Rs 2. Sundays are best avoided because of heavy crowds. On the right as you enter is an office which gives out a good map of the museum. Free guided tours also start from this office.

Charminar
The Charminar (Four Towers), is a 56m (185 ft) high arch, which has four minarets, nice balconies and a small mosque. Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah built it in 1591 to celebrate the end of an epidemic, which plagued the city. There is not much to see, but the area around it is interesting. There are some interesting bazaars nearby.

Mecca Masjid
Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah also started Mecca Masjid, about 100m down Sardar Patel Rd, in 1614. Aurangzeb finished it in 1687, after the Mughals took over the kingdom. It is the largest mosque in Hyderabad and 10,000 people can worship here at one time. It received its name because there are some bricks from Mecca embedded into its wall above the gate. You pass the tombs of some of the Hyderabad Nizams, on the left, when you enter the mosque.

Falaknuma Palace and Purani Haveli
For those interested in art, precious artifacts, and architecture, some other places of interest are Falaknuma Palace and Purani Haveli. These collections are housed in grand old palaces and mansions, and prior permission is required to visit.

Venkateswara (Balaji) Temple (Birla Mandir)
This is a beautiful, modern, white marble-carved temple built by the Birla foundation. It is located on the highest point in Hyderabad, overlooking Hussain Sagar lake. It is worth the trip just for the spectacular view of the surrounding area. It is near the Birla Planetarium. Open daily 7 am to noon and 3 to 9 pm.

BM Birla Science Centre and Archaeological Museum
In the archaeological section there are excavations from Vaddamanu which date from 100 BC to 200 AD, stone and wood sculptures and miniature paintings. There are optical illusions in the science center.

It is located on top of Naubat Pahar Hill (241-067). Open daily 10.30 am to 8.30 pm. Admission Rs 14.

Birla Planetarium
There is a show on the existence of aliens. It is located on top of Naubat Pahar Hill. There are English shows Mon to Saturday 11.30 am, 4 pm and 6 pm; Sunday 11 am, 3.45 pm and 6 pm. Closed last Tuesday of the month. Admission Rs 10.

Hussain Sagar Lake
It is a 6½ km by 4km artificial lake, which was made during the time of the Golconda Empire. There is a 17.5m high, 350 tons monolithic Buddha statue on a platform in the middle of the lake. While being transported on a barge to be put on one of the dam’s wall, it sank into the water. In 1992 it was raised from the bottom of the lake and was found to be totally intact.

Next to the lake is the pleasant Lumbini Park (9 am to 9 pm Admssioun Rs 5), north of Secretariat Rd. Boats depart to the statue from the park for Rs 25 per person (half-hour). There are good views of the lake from Tankbund, which is on the eastern bank of the lake.

Hyderabad Archaeological Museum
It has a collection of archaeological objects that were found in the local area. There are also copies of the paintings in the Ajanta Caves in Maharashtra. Open daily except Fri 10.30 am to 5 pm. Admsssion Rs 5.

The museum is in the Public Gardens, which is located just north of the Hyderabad railway station. There is also an Aquarium in the Park, which is open daily except Sun 10.30 am to 5 pm.

Nehru Zoological Park
This large zoo, set in nice gardens, has a good collection of animals. It has a lion safari and a toy-train that goes around the zoo. Open daily except Mon 9 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 2. An autorickshaw to here from Abids is around Rs 30.

Swimming
You can swim at the Ritz Hotel (233-570), Hill Fort St, Basheer Bagh, from 3 to 7 pm for Rs 40 an hour; and Taj Residency (399-999), No 1 Banjara Hills, for Rs 150 an hour.

Where to Stay—Lower
The budget hotels are in the Abids area between Hyderabad railway station and Abids Circle.

The Royal Lodge and Gee Royal Lodge, opposite the railway station, are nothing fancy, but provide the basic necessities with attached bathrooms. These places cost about Rs 125/185.
Hotel Rajmata (2666 5555), opposite the station, has rooms for Rs 225/250 with common bath and Rs 300/350 with bath. The cheaper rooms are in the rear building and are rather dumpy. I had to climb over someone to get to the room. The newer building in the front, however, has deluxe rooms with TV and hot water for Rs 600/70, which are fairly reasonable and comfortable.
Hotel Imperial, (2857 3840) on the corner of Station Rd and Public Gardens Rd (Nampally High Road), has basic rooms for Rs 350/400. A three-minute walk from the station.
Apsara Hotel, Station Rd, has rooms with bath (bucket hot water in the morning) for Rs 250/300.
Hotel Suhail (2461 0299) is a good value, having rooms with bath, hot water and TV for Rs 180/30 and Rs 350/400 with A/C. Some of the rooms have a balcony. This hotel is behind the GPO, in a quiet location.
Hotel Sri Brindavan (2320-3970), Station Rd, near Abids Circle, has rooms with bath for Rs 450/500. Hot water is available in a bucket until 7.30 am. It is a good value.

Where to Stay—Middle
Hotel Saptagiri (2460-3601), just off Nampally Station Rd, around the corner from the Annapurna Hotel, has clean rooms with a balcony and bath with hot water for Rs 300/350 and Rs 650 with A/C. Being on a side road, it is not too noisy. Most rickshaw drivers do not know it, so ask for the Annapurna Hotel. Recommended.
Hotel Jaya International (2475-2929; Email: hoteljaya@hotmail.com), just off Bank St, has good, comfortable rooms for Rs 700/800 and with A/C and a TV for Rs 900/1000. 24-hour checkout. Popular place.
Hotel Siddhartha, Bank St, is a nice, quiet place with rooms for Rs 450/500 and Rs 500/600 with A/C.
Hotel Aahwaanam, by JN Rd, near the Ramakrishan Cinema, has good rooms with attached bath, hot water and a TV for Rs 350/450 and Rs 550/600 with A/C.
Taj Mahal Hotel (2651 2211), at the junction of King Kothi Rd and MG Rd (Abids Rd), is a grand old place with a pleasant atmosphere. It has large, clean rooms with bath, hot water in the morning and TV for Rs 350/500 and Rs 500/650 with A/C. It has a vegetarian restaurant. 24 hour checkout. Popular. The rooms vary so it is a good idea to see a few.
Annapurna Hotel (2473-2612), Nampally Station Rd, is an Indian-style hotel with very big rooms for Rs 350/425 and Rs 450/650 with A/C. The maintenance of this hotel leaves something to be desired.
Ashoka (2323 0105; fax 230-088), Lakdi-ka-pul, is a good place with rooms with TV for Rs 650/700 and Rs 750/800 with A/C. It has a vegetarian restaurant.
The popular Hotel Sai Prakash (2461-1726; fax 461-3355), Nampally Station Rd, near the railway station, is a nice place with comfortable modern rooms for Rs 550/650 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. It is a good value. Popular. It has the excellent Woodland vegetarian restaurant.
Central Court Hotel, Lakdi-ka-Pul, two km north of the station, is an upper end, mid-range hotel with rooms for Rs 1300/1500. It has a good restaurant with a buffet lunch. It is a good place.
Hotel Emerald (202-836; fax 203-902), off Mahatma Gandhi Rd (Abids Rd), is a good value with rooms for Rs 800900 and deluxe rooms for Rs 1000/1050.

Where to Stay—High
The luxury hotels charge a 20% tax extra over the prices listed below.

Amrutha Castle, (5663 3888; Email: amruthacastle@pol.net) Secretariat Rd, has modern, very comfortable rooms for Rs 1500/2000 and suites go up to Rs 4000. Rooms have a fax machine. It has a restaurant, a rooftop pool and a health club. It has an unusually castle design. Part of Best Western chain.
The new three-star Residency (2320 4060; Email reservations@theresidency-hyd.com), Public Gardens Rd, opposite the Hyderabad railway station, has comfortable rooms for Rs 1000/1250 and a suite for Rs 1500, which includes breakfast. Belongs to Quality Inn group.
Hotel Viceroy (2753-8383; fax 753-8797), Tank Bund Rd, overlooking Hussain Sagar, has comfortable rooms for Rs 3000/3600 and deluxe doubles for Rs 340000/4000. It is fully A/C and has a pool. The rate includes a buffet breakfast.
Holiday Inn Krishna, Banjara Hills, has luxury rooms for $80/100.
The Taj Residency (2666 3939; Email: residency.hyderabd@tajhotels), Banjara Hills 4 km from the center of Hyderabad, is a first-class place with rooms for $110/130. Has marlbe floors, a fountain, nice garden and excellent furniture..
The five-star Krishna Oberoi (2339-2323; fax 2339-3079), Road No 1, Banjara Hills, has rooms for $125/140. It has a pool, tennis court, boating and nine acres of beautiful gardens overlooking a lake. It has a first class restaurant.

Secunderabad and Airport
Sun Lodge (2770-5572), half a km from the Secunderabad railway station, has clean basic rooms for Rs 125/175.
Hotel Sitara (2770-0308), SPG Church Complex, straight and to the left from the Secunderabad railway station, has clean spacious rooms for Rs 250/300 and with air-cooling Rs 500. It is a friendly place.
The YMCA, Station Rd in Secunderabad, has rooms for Rs 200/250. It takes men and women.
APTTDC’s Yatri Niwas, Sardar Patel Rd, Secunderabad, has rooms with bath, hot water and a balcony for Rs 600.
Hotel Ramakrishna (2783 4567; fax 27842 0933), across from the railway reservation office, a five minute walk from the railway station, has clean rooms with hot water for Rs 350/450 and A/C rooms for Rs 450/50. It has a good restaurant and is a good value. Nicest place near in the area.
Deccan Continental, Sir R Ross Rd, near the airport, is a Central A/C higher mid-range place with a pool. Rooms are Rs 750/900 and Rs 1200/1500 with A/C.
Green Park (Quality Inn) (2373 7373; fax 2373 1900), Begumpet, 2½ km from the airport, is a good higher-class place with rooms for Rs 2000/2500.
Grand Kakatiya, Begumpet, 1½ km from airport, is a luxury business hotel.

Where to Eat
The Residency Hotel, opposite the railway station, has a very good vegetarian restaurant (not cheap).
Palace Heights), 8th floor of Triveni Complex, MG Rd, near the GPO, is a popular place with good views of the city. It has paintings of the Nizams on the wall and a Mughal design. It has good Indian, Chinese, and Continental food. Open noon to 3 pm and 7 to 11 pm. Around Rs 200 per person. Reservations are recommended.
Golden Deer, MG Rd, near Abids Circle, is an A/C place which has good Chinese and Indian food.
Chinese Garden, 6-3-349 Rd No 1, Banjara Hill, is a good Chinese restaurant that has good steamed rice and veg preparations. Open 12.30 to 3.30 pm and 7 to 11 pm.
Paradise Garden Restaurant, near the corner of MG Rd and Sardar Patel Rd in Secunderabad, has very good traditional Hyderabad cuisine. It is not too expensive.
Shalimar Restaurant, in the Hotel Sri Brindavan, Station Rd, is a good place with main dishes around Rs 40.
Grand Hotel, Abids Circle, left of the GPO, is a popular place.
Minerva Coffee Shop, 3-6-199/1 Himayat Nagar, is a fairly high-class place which has good dosas and Minerva Special Ice Cream. South and North Indian thalis are served 11 am to 2.30 pm and 7 to 9.30 pm.
Firdaus at the Krishna Oberoi is a very good place (Rs 500 per person).
Dakhni at the Taj Residency is excellent.
Paradise Persis Restaurant, near the junction of MG Rd and Sardar Patel Rd in Secunderabad, is known for it authentic Hyderabad cuisine. It is reasonably priced and is recommended.

Where to Eat—Pure Vegetarian
There is a good restaurant at the Hotel Annapurna, Nampally Station Road, Abids area. It is well known for good ice cream.
Kamat Hotel, a famous South Indian restaurant chain known for reasonable prices and good food, can be found on Nampally Station Road. There are also branches near the public gardens and in Secunderabad.
The restaurant at the Taj Mahal Hotel, King Kothi Rd, off MG Rd, has fairly cheap, good South Indian and North Indian food. It has a regular and A/C section, which is slightly more expensive. Open 11 am to 3.30 pm and 7 to 10.30 pm.
The best place I found was the Woodlands Restaurant at the Hotel Sai Prakash, not far from the railway station. This is a well-known name in South Indian restaurants and is recommended.

Getting Around
I found the rickshaw drivers to be difficult to deal with. After 10 pm you have to pay the price on the meter, plus 50% of the return fare. A taxi to Golconda Fort return, plus waiting time is around Rs 200.

You can hire a tourist taxi from AP Tourism (557-531), Gagan Vihar, 1st Fl, MG Rd; and Ashok Travels (230-766), Lal Bahadur Stadium. A taxi is around Rs 500 for 6 hours.

Some useful local buses are #8–Hyderabad to Secunderabad railway stations; #7– Secunderabad station to the Abids area via the GPO; #2–Secunderabad station to Charminar; and #119 and #142–Nampally High Rd to Golconda Fort.

Travel
Air There are Indian Airlines flights from Hyderabad to points all over India.

Indian Airlines (2631 2340, 2323 6902) is near the Secretariat building on Secretariat Rd (10 am to 5 pm).

The Air India office (2338 9711, 2323 2747;).5-9-193 HACA Bhavan, near the State Assembly on Assembly Rd (Hours: 9 am to 5 pm). They have flights to Mumbai and Internationsal flights to there Middle East.

There are flights to Mumbai (3 daily, $125), Kolkata (1 daily, $235), Delhi (2 daily, $230), Chennai (2 daily, $130), Bangalore (110), and three flights a week to Bhubaneswar ($165), Tirupati ($110) and Visakhapatnam ($115).

Jet Airways (2340-1222; Airport 842-817) 6-3-1109 Nav Bharat Chambers, Raj Bhavan Rd, Somajiguda, has daily flights to Mumba, Bangalore, Chennai, Tirupathi, Deljo and Kolkata (Calcutta).

British Airways (2324 1661) 5-9-88/4 Ainulaman Fateh Madien Rd
Qantas (2321 0947) Chapel Rd..

The airport is at Begumpet, Secunderabad, 8km north of the Hyderabad railway station. By the meter it costs about Rs 50 to the airport by auto-rickshaw, but most drivers will not use the meter. A taxi is around Rs 150. There is a prepaid taxi stand at the airport. There is no airport bus.

Train There are two train stations—Hyderabad railway station (also called Nampally) and Secunderabad. Trains leave daily from both stations for almost all parts of India.

Some trains from Hyderabad Railway Station are: Chennai Charminar Exp #2760 (7 pm, 15 hr), Hyderabad-Chennai Exp #7054 (3.50 pm, 30 hr); Kolkata (Calcutta) East Coast Exp #7046 (7 am, 31 hr); Delhi Nizamuddin-Hyderabad Dakshin Exp #7021 (9.30 pm, 33½ hr); Mumbai Hyderabad-Mumbai Exp #7032 (8.40 pm, 17½ hr); Vijayawada Godavari Exp #7008 (5.15 pm, 6½ hr).

From the Hyderabad station the Rayasaleena Exp #7429 (5.30 pm, 16½ hr) and Krishna Exp #7406 (5.30 am, 16½ hr) go to Tirupati. From Secunderabad the Venkatadri (3.30 pm, 18 hr) goes to Tirupati.

From Secunderabad Station to Aurangabad there is the Secunderabad-Aurangabad Exp #7664 (6 pm 14½ hr). There is a day train from Aurangabad to Hyderabad. Bangalore Secunderabad-Bangalore Exp #7085 to (7.30 pm, 17 hr); New Delhi Andhra Pradesh Exp #2723 (6.40 am, 26 hr). To get to Hospet and Hampi you take the Venkatadri Exp to Guntakal (3.30 pm, 9 hr) and then connect with the Vasco Exp (3 am, 2½ hr).

You can book train tickets at the Hyderabad station for trains leaving from the Secunderabad station as well. When you purchase a train ticket you should ask what station the train departs from, as the two stations are about a half-hour apart and this can sometimes cause confusion.

The booking office is open 8 am to 2 pm and 2.30 to 8 pm, Mon to Sat, and Sun 8 am to 2 pm. Both stations have tourist quotas. The Reservation Office is to the left as you enter the station. Counter #123, next to enquiry, is for tourist reservations (also lost and group tickets). Foreign tourists can book their tickets with the Chief Reservation Inspector’s Office on platform 1, daily from 9 am to 5 pm.

For reservations call 1345. For general inquiries call 1331 (English), 1332 (Telugu), 1333 (Hindi).

Bus The APSRIC bus station, Gowliguda, has semi-deluxe and super-deluxe buses going to places all over the state. There is a computerized booking office (2780 2203) open daily from 8 am to 9 pm.

There are two bus stations—the old and the new. More than likely you will want to go to the new bus station (3km southeast of the railway station), and you should make this clear to the rickshaw driver, as it is further than the old bus stand. Otherwise they will drive you to the old bus stand and then ask for more money to get you to the new bus station.

There are buses departing to Tirupati (10 daily, 9 hr), Vijayawada, Aurangabad, Chennai (1 daily, 16 hr), Mumbai (8 daily, 17 hr), Bangalore (10 daily, 13 hr), Hospet (8 hr, 4 daily) and many other places. There is a 10 am luxury bus to Srisailam, which cannot be booked in advance.

There are private bus companies that have super-deluxe video buses to major cities like Mumbai, Bangalore, Tirupati and Chennai. Their main offices are on Nampally High Rd (Public Gardens Rd) by the railway station.

Noble Travels and Asian Travels both seem to be reliable. Most of these buses leave in the late afternoon and travel overnight

Pop: 62,000
Phone Code: 08578

There is an important Siva temple located at this site. It is on the right bank of the Suvarnamukhi River, 27km northeast of Tirupati, between the two hills, Sripuram and Mummudicholapuram, which form part of the Sesha Sailam Hills.

Kalahastiswara Temple
This important temple, dedicated to Lord Siva, has one of the elemental lingas, the Vayu (air) Linga. There is a lamp inside the inner sanctum that is constantly flickering, despite the lack of air movement inside. The air-linga can be observed to move even when the pujaris close off the entrance to the main deity room, which has no windows. You can see the flames on several ghee lamps flicker as if blown by moving air. The linga is white and is considered Swayambhu, or self-manifested.
The main linga is untouched by human hands, including the priests’. Abhisheka (bathing) is done by pouring a mixture of water, milk, camphor, and panchamrita. Sandal paste, flowers, and the sacred thread are offered to the utsava-murti, not the main linga.

This temple is one of the most impressive Siva temples in India. It features an enormous, ancient gopuram over the main gate. The tower is 36.5m (120 feet) high. The entire temple is carved out of the side of a huge stone hill. King Krishnadeva Raya built it in 1516.

Inside the temple you will find the tremendously ornate and splendid architecture for which South India is famous. Elaborately designed pillars, altars, and paraphernalia abound.

The temple’s main entrance faces south, although the deity faces west. There is an interesting underground temple dedicated to Ganesh (Ganapati) named Patala Vinayaka, which is 10m (33 ft) beneath the ground. The goddess here is called Jnana Prasannambha and is said to be the sister of Lord Venkateswara at the Tirumala temple. She is said to give supreme knowledge (jnana) to those who worship her.

The Suvarnamukhi River is a sacred river, said to have been brought to earth by Agastya Muni. It is also called Uttara Vahini, because at this place it flows south to north, which is unusual. It is dry most of the year. You can climb to the top of the nearby Nagor Hill (1040 m) and get a good view of the area.

By purchasing a special darshan ticket (Rs 10) you wait about 10 minutes instead of an hour on a normal day to view the Vayu Linga.

Temple Story
The main linga is in the shape of an elephant trunk, with tusks on each side and a figure of a spider at the bottom. If you look at the linga from the top, it resembles a snake with five hoods. The spider is call “Sri,” the snake “Kala,” and the elephant “Hasti.” The three names combine together to form the name “Srikalahasti.”

It is said that the spider wove a web above the linga to protect it from the sun and rain. The elephant would get water with its trunk and bath the linga (perform abhishek) and the snake would also worship the Lord. The snake was not aware that the elephant and spider were also worshiping the Lord. One day the snake found bilva leaves and water near the Lord. He thought that someone was trying to harm the Lord, so he surrounded the Lord to protect him. When the elephant came the next day to worship the Lord, the snake thought he was trying to harm the Lord, so he entered his trunk. Unable to handle the pain, the elephant dashed his trunk against the linga, killing both the snake and the spider. Then the elephant himself died. Lord Siva was satisfied with the devotion of all three and offered them all liberation..

Nearby
Kalahasti is surrounded by two sacred hills. The Durgamba Temple is on the northern hill. On the southern hill is the shrine of Kannabeswara, a memorial to the sage Kannappa, who offered Lord Siva one of his eyes. When he tried to offer his other eye as well, the Lord mercifully stopped him. There is also a temple dedicated to Subrahmanya on one of the surrounding hills.

Practicalities
There are basic rooms at the Devasthanam Guest House and the Hotel Madhu.

You can visit Kalahasti along with the organized tour that visits the temples in the Tirupati area.
There is a train station at Gudur on the Chennai–Vijayawada line. There are regular buses to and from Tirupati. From Tirupati you take the bus to Kalahasti from the Central bus stand, which is a few km from the railway station.

Simhachalam is about 16km north of Visakhapatnam. Simha means “lion”, and chalam means “hill”. There is the famous Varaha Narasimha Temple here.

Near the foot of the hill is the sacred Pushkarini bathing tank. There is a perpetual spring called Gangadhara by the Varaha Narasimha temple that is said to have medicinal properties. To get to Gangadhara, if you are standing facing the temple entrance, you proceed to the left until the end of the road, then turn right and again go to the end of the road.

Varaha Narasimha Temple (Jiyada-Nara­simha)
This temple, whose Deity is known as Varaha Narasimha Swami, is on top of a 240m (800 ft) hill about 16km northeast of Visakhapatnam. This Deity is about ¾m (2½ ft) high. He has a two-armed human form, but he has the head of a boar and the tail of a lion, thus making him unique. Simhachalam is one of the 108 Divya Desam temples and is one of the major Vishnu temples in India.

The temple darshan times are normally 6 am to 10 pm and 4 pm to 6 pm

The priests daily apply layers of candana (sandalwood paste) to the Lord’s body to cool his great anger. The sandalwood is removed only once a year during the Vaishaka period (April/ May), bringing thousands of pilgrims on that day to see the Lord’s form. The original Deity is situated within the depths of the temple, but another Deity known as the vijaya-murti stands on the altar. When you come close for darshan, what you actually see is the Lord covered by a mound of dried sandalwood paste.

Priests, who generally belong to the Ramanuja-sampradaya (Sri-sampradaya), are in charge of the Deity worship. Ramanuja visited here in the 11th century. Sri Chaitanya came here.

As you approach the temple, the view of the high gopurams and elaborate carvings is impressive. The temple was built in the 13th century by a military commander of Narasimha I, who also built the Konark temple near Puri. It is a combination of Orissan and Chalukyan styles of architecture. The temple buildings are black granite, and carved into the rock are the forms and pastimes of Vishnu, especially in his incarnation of Lord Narasimha.
North of the temple, outside the enclosure, is the Kalyana-mandapa, which has 96 intricately carved pillars. Here there are many sculptures of Lord Narasimha and other Vishnu incarnations, such as Matsya and Dhanvantari.

According to the priests, a visit to this temple will bless barren persons with offspring. Just outside the Deity room, in the mukha-mandapa (hall), is a pillar named Kappam Stambham, which is decorated with cloth and surrounded by silver plates and flower garlands. Women can be seen embracing this pillar and praying with great devotion, asking the Lord to fulfill their desire for children.

Temple Story
The powerful demon Hiranyakasipu told his servants to throw his son xe "Prahlada" Prahlada into the sea at this place and to set a mountain over him. Lord Vishnu jumped over the hill and lifted Prahlada from the sea, thus rescuing Prahlada from his demoniac father. The Lord is said to have tilted the hill so Prahlada could escape from underneath it.

On Prahlada’s request, the Lord then assumed the form of the Varaha-Narasimha Deity so Prahlada could see both of the Lord’s aspects—the one by which he had killed Hiranyaksa and the one by which he would kill Hiranyakasipu. After he was granted this sight, Prahlada is said to have built a temple around the Deity. Over thousands of years the temple deteriorated and was later found by Pururava, who is mentioned in the Ninth Canto of the Srimad-Bhagavatam. Upon discovery, Pururava heard a voice from the sky telling him to cover the Deity with sandal paste and to expose him only once a year on Candana-yatra (the Vaishaka-trtiya in April or May). Pururava covered the Deity with sandal paste and rebuilt the temple, which has flourished ever since.

Festivals
On Candana-yatra, the priests break the Deity’s sandalwood covering and the Lord can be seen directly. This event takes place on Aksaya-tritiya, the third day of the first half of the month of Vaishaka (April–May). The sandalwood covering is taken off and the Deity is then ceremonially bathed. In the evening, the Deity is again covered with sandalwood.

The Kalyanotsava Festival celebrates the marriage of the Lord to his eternal consort, Lakshmi. It is performed with all the rituals and fire sacrifices of a traditional Hindu wedding. It begins on the 11th day (Ekadasi) in the first half of the lunar month of Chaitra (March–April) and continues for five days till Purnima, the full moon day.

Practicalities
There are simple guesthouses by the temple.
Adivivaram, the village at the foot of the hill, is 4km from the Simhachalam Railway Station.

From Visakhapatnam the #6A bus goes to Simhachalam. You get this bus at the side of the RTC bus stand and you get off at the last stop. Once you get to the Simhachalam station, walk out of the station, turn right, and walk a few minutes to get to the bus that goes to the top of the hill. You can also approach the temple by climbing the hill, which has about 800 steps. Once you are on top of the hill you are directed to enter the temple through a side entrance.

Pop: 23,000

Located on Rishabhagiri Hill on the bank of the sacred river Krishna, xe "Srisailam" Srisailam is a 6-hour bus ride south from Hyderabad (200km). It is an ancient place, and is mentioned both in the Mahabharata and in the Puranas. On top of Srisailam Hill is the famous Mallikarjuna Temple, dedicated to Lord Siva. It is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Andhra Pradesh

It is a necessary part of the Srisailam pilgrimage to bathe in the Pathalaganga River (the local name for Krishna River), located about 3km east of the Mallikarjuna Temple. Steps lead down to the river from the temple. Siva-linga stones are collected from the banks of this holy Krishna River.

The Uma-maheswara Temple, about 3km northwest of the Mallikarjuna Temple on the way to Pathalaganga, is an ornate temple. In Basar, there is a temple dedicated to Saraswati. This is one of two main Saraswati temples in India (the other is in Kashmir).

Mallikarjuna Temple
The Mallikarjuna Swami Temple is one of the 12 Siva Jyotir­linga temples, or main Siva temples in the country. The main temple has four lofty towers and was built by King Harihara Raya in 1404. Anyone who comes here is allowed to touch the Lord or bow and touch their heads to the linga.
To the right of the main temple is the old, or Vriddha Mallikarjuna Siva-linga (7th century), which is the original Siva-linga installed in the temple. The interesting Mirror Hall directly to your right as you enter the main gate is where the Lord rests at night.

Sri Chaitanya visited this temple, and Sankaracharya also stayed at Srisailam for some time. The Maratha General Shivaji came here in 1674. It is said that Prahlada Maharaja visited this temple, and also Lord Rama upon his return from Lanka. Lord Rama is said to have personally installed the Sahasra-linga here.

There are five lingas in the inner courtyard. Because they are said to have been installed by the Pandavas, they are known as the Pancha­pandavas.

Behind the main temple and up a flight of stairs is the temple of the goddess Bhramarambika (Parvati), who is said to have assumed the form of a bee to kill the demon Mahisasura. If you press your ear to a tiny hole on the exterior back wall of the sanctum, you can hear the buzzing of a bee. The Siva-ratri festival here in February–March is huge. Non-Hindus are permitted to enter this temple.

Where to Stay
To get a place to stay here you are supposed to go to the Reception Center, where you have to register. At the Reception Center you can get a rooms for Rs 100 to Rs 1000. A basic room with bath is Rs 150 and a cottage with bath is Rs 300.

There is the APTDC Sailamvihar Tourist Rest House. There are also dharamshalas. They do not see many foreigners, so it may be difficult to find a place that has foreigner registration forms.
Jagatguru Matam Guest House has two bedroom cottages for Rs 1200 and Rs 1500 with A/C.

There are only basic eating places.

Travel
Srisailam is 220km southeast of Hyderabad by bus (6 hr) and 260km southwest of Vijayawada. From Hyderabad you can take a train to Mahbhunagar and then a bus. A convenient way to get here is to take an overnight tour from Hyderabad.

Several buses arrive from Hyderabad daily, but the 10 am luxury bus is the most pleasant. There are direct buses to Kurnool (1.15 pm), Tirupati (7.30 am), and Chennai (6 pm). It takes about 10 hours to get to Ahovalam from Srisailam.

Pop: 17,000
Phone Code: 0857

Tirumala is where the Venkateswara (Sri Balaji) Temple is located. Tirumala is located on Vyenkata Hill at an altitude of 840m (2,800 ft). Vyenkateswara means “the Lord of Vyenkatachala.” Vyenkatachala is a chain of hills. The temple is situated on the top of seven adjoining hills, also called Seshachalam Hills, which are said to be an incarnation of Ananta Sesa.

Once Vayu and Sesa entered into a disagreement over who was stronger. Sesa wrapped his long body around Mount Meru and challenged Vayu to move it. Vayu tried but failed. Vayu pretended to be exhausted and stopped blowing. Then Sesa opened his mouth to breathe. At that moment, Vayu blew off part of the hill. After the hill had traveled a great distance, Mount Meru asked Vayu to leave it there. Ashamed of his defeat, Sesa did penance, meditating on Lord Vishnu. When Lord Vishnu appeared and offered a boon, Sesa assumed the shape of the hill and requested the Lord to stay on his head. This hill is called Sesachalam. It is said that when Ramanuja visited here, he walked up the hill on his knees to avoid stepping on Sesa Naga.

The Lord’s appearance in Tirumala is mentioned in about 12 different Puranas. According to the Brahma Purana, Lord Vishnu wanted a change from Vaikuntha, so he inquired from Narada Muni about a place on earth for diversion and sport. Narada suggested Sesachalam (the head of Ananta Sesa).

All the property at the top of the hill at Tirumala belongs to the Tirumala-Tirupati Devasthanam (TTD), which is recycles much of its wealth to such humanitarian works as schools, orphanages and hospitals. TTD web site (http://www.tirumala.org).

Tirumala is an unusual place for India in that the streets are totally clean of trash.

Sri Venkateswara (Balaji) Temple
This temple is one of the most important Vishnu temples in India and is also the richest. It is the most visited temple in India and is one of the most visited religious places in the world. This magnificent temple is located 20km up a hill from Tirupati. It is a very peaceful place and coming to this temple is a very awe-inspiring and devotional experience. On a spiritual tour of South India it is an absolute must.

On an average over 25,000 people visit daily, and on festival days over 100,000 visit. In 1989, over eleven and a half million people made their pilgrimage here.

As you enter the inner sanctum the chanting becomes more and more intense—“Om Namo Venkateswara, Om Namo Venkateswara.” On special days when the Deity is in “full dress” his entire outfit spreads from one end of the altar room to the other and all the jewels of the dress are real—gold coins, emeralds, diamonds and platinum.

It is said that at Tirumala, Lord Vishnu grants the wish of anyone who offers him their weight in something, be it gold, fruit, cloth, or whatever. Pilgrims who make such an offering and ask a boon or blessing generally return (after achieving their desire) and make another offering to the Lord, acknowledging his kindness.

The worship in the temple is performed by Sri-sampradaya Vaishnava Brahmins, in the line of Ramanujacharya.

The Venkateswara temple is 126.5m (414 ft) long, 80m (263 ft) wide, and covers an area of 2.2 acres. What is particularly stunning is the vimana (dome), called Ananda Nilayam, above the Deity’s main room. It is covered in hammered solid gold. The flag-pole (dwajasthamba) is gold-plated, and the gates that guard the inner sanctum are also covered with gold.

Every day 100,000 luglus (fruit and nuts sweets) are made. The demand is much more, but the tradition is that all the luglus must be cooked in the temple kitchens. The cooks receive 52 luglus for every 1000 they make, as payment for their services.

The average income of the temple is $25,000 (10 lakhs rupees) a day. It has an annual income of 5 billion rupees (125 million dollars) a year. The TTD banks Rs 40 to 50 crores (12 million dollars) yearly. The Hundi (Deity box) collection is over 5 million dollars yearly. It is not unusual when they open this box at the end of the day to find gold and platinum coins and bricks inside.

The Deity’s gold and silver palanquins and other sacred paraphernalia are on display. There is a temple staff of over 6,000.

It is said that Sankaracharya established the Dhanakarshana Yantra at this temple to attract people to visit the temple. Sri Chaitanya came here on his tour of South India.

Sri Venkateswara (Sri Balaji)
Lord Venkateswara is a self-manifested 2m (6 ft) high Deity made of a jet-black stone. The Deity is known as Venkateswara, Srinivasa, Govinda, Perumal, or Balaji. His diamond crown, made in Antwerp, the diamond capital of the world, is said to be the single most valuable piece of jewelry in the world.

His two upper arms hold a conch-shell (sankha) and disk (cakra). The palm of his lower right hand is turned outward offering benediction (varada), while his lower left hand is turned inward (katyavalambita). Alarmelmangai-Nachchiyar (Lakshmi), seated on a lotus, is carved on the right side of Sri Venkateswara’s chest. Lord Rama’s marks are found on Venkateswara near the armpits: the bow and quiver (arrows).

The Lord’s eyes are covered by a large tilak like “V” made of camphor. For it is said that Lord Venkateswara’s lotus-like eyes are so beautiful that if they were uncovered, then pilgrims would not want to leave. This form of the Lord is known for fulfilling any desire a devotee may express to him. It is also said that his eyes are covered because His gaze would scorch the entire world.

The Deity wears very precious jewelry. He wears a garland of big solid-gold coins. His two hands, opened in benediction, are covered first with silver and then diamonds and rubies. He wears different big crowns made of solid gold covered in diamonds, rubies and other precious gems. The Lord wears a big emerald called “Meru Pacha,” which is 3 inches in diameter and is considered to be the biggest emerald in the world. All the jewelry is real gold. The Lord possesses over 250 crores (70 million dollars) worth of gems and 640 kgs of gold.

Temple Program
At 3 am is suprabhatam, the awakening prayers. Between 3 am and 5 am is thomala-seva, or the renewal of flowers for the Lord, which can be attended by purchasing a ticket. From 6 to 11 am is sarva-darshan, or general darshan (viewing) of the Lord.

There is an hour break between 11 am and noon for cleaning and worship, and at that time there is no darshan. There is darshan from 12 noon till 7 pm and then again from 8 to 10 pm. At 10.30 pm is ekanta-seva, or putting the Lord in a cradle. The Lord takes rest for just two hours a day, from 1 to 3 am.

The padmaradhana, or worship with 108 golden lotus flowers, is a popular abhishek done every Tuesday. Tickets are booked a year in advance. Abhisheka, or the bathing of Sri Venkateswara, is done every Friday morning between 4.30 and 5.30 am.

At 5 pm, there is an interesting ceremony outside with lamps.

Other Deities in the Temple
Immediately to the left of the second gopuram entrance is a small temple dedicated to Sri Varadaraja Swami. You will be led past this deity to get to the inner altar, and it is traditional to offer worship to Varadaraja first.

As you come into the second gopuram (entrance), to your right is a Deity of Lord Narasimha in his form of Yoga Narasimha. He is sitting in a cross-legged yogic position, with his two lower hands resting on his knees.

Facing west near Lord Narasimha is a deity of Sri Ramanuja, the Sri Vaishnava acharya. A part of the prasada offered to Sri Venkateswara is offered to Sri Ramanuja. On certain festival days special honors are shown to Sri Ramanuja, because he established the day-to-day procedure of worship in this temple.

Deities on Main Altar (Sanctum)
Bhoga Srinivasa, who is a silver replica of the mula-vigraha of Lord Sri Venkateswara, is always near Sri Venkateswara and connected to the main Deity by a silk cord. This Deity receives the daily abhisheka (bathing ceremonies), whereas the main Deity is only bathed on Friday.

Sri Malai Kuniya Nenran Perumal (Sri Malayappan) is the 1m (3 ft) tall processional Deity (utsava-murti). Sridevi is to the right of this Deity and Bhudevi is also near by. Ugra Srinivasa, who is about half a metre (1½ ft) tall, is the previous processional Deity. Ugra means angry. The Deity is holding a chakra in a slightly tilted way, as if it could be used immediately. It is said that if the rays of the sun would ever touch this Deity it would do incalculable harm to the world, therefore he is provided with jewel-encrusted umbrellas.

Koluvu Srinivasa is brought daily after the morning thomala-seva (worship) and seated on a silver chair. He is the guardian Deity and supervises the temple affairs. The calendar of the day (panchangam) and the accounts of the temple are read to him every day.

There is also a set of Rukmini-Krishna Deities and Deities of Sita, Rama, Laksman, and Sugriva.

There is also a deity of Chakra Alwar (Sudarshan cakra), the disc of the Lord, who always proceeds the utsava-murti (processional Deity) during processions.

Temple Complex
You enter the temple through the eastern entrance. To your right as you enter (southeast corner) is the Ranga-mandapa, where different festival events are held. To the west of this hall are the Annaunjal Hall and Tiurmalaraya Hall, which are also used for different festival events. In the north part of the courtyard is a hall called Aina-mahal (mirror hall).
The second enclosure area is called Sampangi Prakara. It contains the altars of Sri Varadaraja, Sri Narasimha and Ramanujacharya.

On either side of the entrance to the inner sanctum are the two dwarapalas (guards), Jaya and Vijaya. The Mukkoti Pradakshina is a path that encircles the inner sanctum. It is normally closed and is open only on Vaikuntha Ekadasi. One who goes through the special gate that circumambulates the inner sanctum of Sri Venkateswara is considered to gain liberation from this material world upon leaving this body.

Useful Information
No cameras are allowed, but if you have one, there is a good chance you will be allowed to bring it in as long as you do not use it. There are free cloak and shoe rooms outside the temple where you can leave your things.

The inner shrines of the temple are not officially open to non-Hindus. Foreigners may be asked to sign a paper saying they believe in Hinduism. If they sign the paper, they can enter the temple.
Every pilgrim is entitled to free food, accommodation (very basic), and medical treatment.

You can use your Rs 30 “special darshan” ticket to go to a special booth, to your right as you leave the temple, to purchase a large prasadam luglu. The normal luglu queue (line) may take an hour or more and this special line is almost immediate. The luglus are fantastic.

Mondays and Tuesdays are not very crowded days. At 7 am on Monday it may only be an hour waiting time in the “special darshan” line. Weekends and festivals days are the most crowded days to come.

You can pay for hotel TTD accommodations or gives donations by using a credit card. The TTD web site is www.tirupati.org. Accommodations can be arranged through the web site.

How to Get in the Temple
There is a new system of entry to the temple called Su-darshanam. You now report to any Su-darshanam counter in either Tirumala or Tirupati. You then receive a bar-coded band that states the approximate time that you can have darshan. You then return for darshan at the stated time and the average time you have to wait around is around an hour to view the Deities, if you have a special darshan ticket. This can reduce the waiting time by several hours. You are then free to walk around while you are waiting.

You can get a small booklet here that is published by the TTD. In the booklet they suggest that before entering the temple that one bathes in Pushkarini Lake and worships at the Varaha Swami Temple. They also suggest that one chants “OM Sri Venkatesaya Namah” inside the temple and that one bathes in the Papavinasanam and Akasa Ganga Tirthams near Tirumala.

There is no darshan between 10 am and noon.
There are two queues available to the public for viewing the Deity. One is a free sarva-darshan line, which has a number of good-sized auditoriums with marble steps to sit on. When the auditorium next to yours empties you move to the next one and the gates are locked behind you.

For a Rs 30 fee, you enter the “special darshan” line that cuts your waiting time by 75%.

Once inside the Deity room the movement of the line picks up speed as there are officials on either side of the Deity pushing the pilgrims to move on. It is set up like a “U” turn, where you enter on the right side of the Deity, pass in front of Balaji, and exit out the left. If you keep to the extreme right when you enter, you may be able to stay in the corner and get a few extra seconds darshan. The average viewing time is five seconds, but if you are a foreigner sometimes the pujaris may give you a few extra minutes or seconds.

Once your darshan is finished, you continue to follow the queue outside the premises. Outside the temple you can purchase delicious round luglus made of dried fruits and nuts to take home, as they keep for long periods. Demand for these sweets are high. If you have a “special darshan” ticket you can purchase a large luglu from the booth to your right as you leave the temple. This booth is up some stairs in a building across from the temple. You are limited to just one luglu per “special darshan” ticket in this line.

Around the Temple
There is a large water tank next to this temple called Swami Pushkarini tank, where pilgrims take bath before their dar-shan. The Varaha Purana says Swami Pushkarini was a pond used by Lord Vishnu in Vaikuntha for recreation. Tradition says that Garuda put this tank here.

Next to the tank is the Varaha Swami Temple. It is stated in the Puranas that Lord Varaha was on Sesachala before Sri Venkateswara, and he granted space to Venkateswara to live on Sesachala Hill. It is a tradition to visit this temple before going into the main temple.

There is a small museum called the Hall of Antiquities (opened daily from 8 am to 8 pm; admission Rs 5), which is located opposite the temple entrance.

Akasa Ganga is a sacred waterfall, 5km south of the temple. Water is brought from here for Lord Venkateswara’s abhiseka (bathing). On the way to Akasa Ganga is Papavinasha Tirtha.

Tirumala is more like a city than a temple, and one could easily spend a whole day just walking around. There are sacred water tanks and smaller temples that house various paraphernalia, such as the chariot that carries the small processional Deities (utsava Deity) during festivals.

You can visit the huge head-shaving center, which looks something like a South Indian temple. Devotees offer their hair in expectation of pleasing the Lord. Head shaving (tonsuring) is done by many people (many of them women). The hair is sold for wig making, and these proceeds are used for increasing the prosperity of the Deities and the upkeep of the town, etc. Three or four crore rupees (over a million dollars) is raised from this process each year.

Festivals
Brahmotsavam (Aug/Sept), which lasts for 11 days, is the main festival. According to the Bhavishottara and Varaha Puranas, this festival has the name Brahmotsavam because Lord Brahma came to earth with all the gods to perform utsavam, or worship of the Lord.

The main day of Brahmotsavam is the cart procession (Rathotsava) on the eighth day. The processional Deity is led around the four streets surrounding the temple on a beautifully decorated cart. The Makarakanti ornament and the Laksmiharam (of the main Deity) are used to decorate the processional Deity on this day. This is the only day that these valuable ornaments are allowed to leave the temple. The fifth and eleventh days are also important. On the eleventh day the processional Deity is taken to Swami Pushkarini, the tank by the temple.

The Tiruppaliodam Tirunal (Float Festival) is usually five days.

There is a major festival in reference to the Swami Pushkarini tank (Dec/Jan). A million sacred bathing places are said to flow into the tank at this time. The Chakra of Lord Vishnu (Chakara Alvar) is taken in procession through the streets and then bathed in the tank. This is considered to be an especially auspicious time to bathe in this tank.

It is said that Kubera, the god of wealth, lent Sri Balaji some money. Each year there is a ceremony, in which the descendants of Kubera seek to collect the loan. The Deity is put behind gold bars. On that day the offerings to the Deity are colossal, as people rush to bail out Balaji.

Pushpayagam is when flower worship is performed to Lord Sri Venkateswara to save the world from natural calamities like floods and droughts. More than 30 types of flowers weighting over two tons (2,000 kilos) are offered to the feet of the utsava-murti.

Where to Stay and Eat
The Tirumala management runs many dharamshalas, cottages and guesthouses, which can house about 20,000 people. You can stay for free in very basic dorms. There are nice rooms with two beds and hot water for Rs 100. You can also get a luxury suite and good cottages for Rs 300.

To get a room you go to the Central Reservation Office, near the bus stand. You can book rooms 30 days in advance by writing the Reception Office (317-504), TTD, Tirumala and sending a Rs 100 demand draft drawn on a national bank in favor of the TTD, Tirumala. You can also book rooms on the TTD web site (http://www.tirumala.org).

The Tamil Nadu Tourist Development Corporation rents out cottages. You rent a room at cottage No 304 by the bus station, or rooms can be booked in their office in Chennai.

The Tirupati-Tirumala Devasthanam Trust (TTD) serves vegetarian meals for free. The temple serves over 3,000 full meals a day. They may contain onions.

Woodlands Restaurant, a five-minute walk from the main area, is a popular cheap thali place.

Tirupati to Tirumala By Road
You get a Tirumala Link bus to go up the hill at either the Central bus stand, two km from the railway station, or the Padmavathi bus stand in the center of Tirupati, opposite the railway station. Buses leave every three minutes starting at 3.30 in the morning, and the trip takes 45 minutes. You may have to wait in line for up to two hours to get a bus on weekends and during festivals. The main rush is in the morning. It is a good idea to buy a return ticket so you do not have to wait in line to purchase a ticket at the top of the hill. It costs Rs 25 for a round-trip bus trip up and down the hill. You arrive in Tirumala at the Kesavanagar bus stand, near the Central Reception area, about a half km from the temple. You depart from the Rose Garden bus stand, east of the temple.

A shared taxi to the top of the hill is about Rs 35 a seat. There are 10-person jeeps that go up the hill for Rs 10 a person. A taxi costs Rs 250.

Walking Up the Hill
Many pilgrims walk the 16km (24km by bus) up the hill. The path begins at the bottom of the hill. You can’t miss the beginning, as there is a huge gopuram (tower) with bright lights and a big statue of Hanuman. It is best to go in the early morning to beat the sun and crowds. Almost the entire way there is an overhead shelter with lights so you can walk at night or in the rain.

You pass nice forests, gardens and a zoo. There are refreshment stands on the way. On the way up the hill is a small temple dedicated to Ramanujacharya.

The walk up the hill is about 4,000 steps, which takes two to four hours of steady climbing and is hard work. If you walk up the hill and want to stay over-night in Tirumala, you can leave your luggage at the baggage stand at the toll gate at the bottom of the hill. It will be transported up the hill free of charge, and you pick it up at the cloak-room near the Central Reception Office at the top of the hill

Pop: 190,000
Phone Code: 08574

Tirupati is 170km northwest of Chennai, in Andhra Pradesh near the Tamil Nadu border, at the bottom of the Tirumala Hill. In Tirupati there is the important Sri Govindaraja Swami Temple, Kothanda Rama Swami Temple and the famous Kapileswara Temple, which is dedicated to Lord Siva. In Tiruchanur, five km from Tirupati, is the Padmavathi Temple, dedicated to the consort of Lord Venkateswara (Balaji).

The temple of Sri Venkateswara or Tirupati Balaji is situated above the actual city of Tirupati in the hilltop town of Tirumala. There is a steep staircase up the hill to Tirumala, used by pilgrims wishing to show their devotion by making the climb; otherwise standard transportation is readily available.

Information
The AP State Tourist Office is located on Govindaraja Car Street, near the Bhima Deluxe Hotel.

There is also the AP Tourism Regional Office (23208), 139 TP Area, near III Choultry. There are tourist counters at the railway station and airport. They conduct a daily tour from 9 am to 4 pm for Rs 150.

The TTD Information Centre (222-2777) is at 1 New Choultry. TTD web site (http://www.tirumala.org).

Two helpful books that have good practical information about Tirupati and the local temples are the TKT History of Tirupati, by Viruraghava Charya, and the Tirupati Yatra Guide.
Heavy rains can be expected in Octo­ber and November.

You can change money at the Indian Bank (222-2199), 214 Gandhi Rd.

The Head Post Office is on Gandhi Rd. Postal Code: 517501.

Foreigners’ Registration Office (20503), Intelligence, 499 Reddy Colony.

Tours
There is a four-hour bus tour of the local temples, available twice daily, at 10 am and 3 pm. It leaves from the Govinda Raja Swamy Choultry, which is located on the opposite side of the tracks from the railway station. This tour includes the Padmavathi Temple and Govindaraja Temple.

There is a Local sightseeing tour departing from the APSRTC Central Bus Stand (10 am to 5 pm) that goes to Sri Kalahasti, Padmavathi Temple, ISKCON (Hare Rama Hare Krishna), Govindaraja Temple, Chandragiri Fort, Kapila-teertham, and Sri Venkateswara Temple.

There are two daily tours to Tirupati (Tirumala) from Chennai, one run by the Tamil Nadu Tourist Development Corporation and the other by ITDC. The tour lasts at least 15 hours, much of it traveling to and from Chennai. The tour allows for a two-hour wait for ‘special darshan’, which on weekends and holidays can take much longer. This means the tour, which is supposed to last from 6 am to 9 pm, may not return until midnight or later. The fare includes breakfast, lunch, and the Rs 30 ‘special darshan’ fee.

APTDC has a weekend tour to Tirupati from Hyderabad. The tour leaves at 4 pm on Friday and returns on Monday at 7 am. The tour includes ‘special darshan’ and accommodation. You can take the bus only one way.

Govindaraja Temple
In this temple there are two main shrines. In the northern shrine is Sri Govindaraja, who is Lord Vishnu lying on Ananta. He is considered to be Lord Venkateswara’s brother. The other main shrine has Deities of Sri Parthasarathi (Krishna as the charioteer of Arjuna), Rukmini and Satyabhama (Krishna’s wives).

Parts of the inner shrine date back to the 9th and 10th centuries. The original temple had Sri Parthasarathi on the main altar. Sri Ramanuja added the Sri Govindaraja Deity around 1130.

To your left, as you enter the first gopuram (gate) of the temple, is a temple dedicated to Lakshmi. She is seated on a lotus in her four-armed form, holding a lotus in each of her upper hands, while her other two hands are in poses of abhaya, fearlessness, and varada, benediction. Situated above the door of this temple there is a carving of Lakshmi holding a lotus in her hand.

Near the first gopuram there is a shrine dedicated to Vedanta Desika. There is also a memorial for three of the Alwar devotees—Tirumallisai Alwar, Namm Alwar, and Kurattalwar—near the Vahana-mandapa, and another nearby shrine is dedicated to Sri Ramanuja. On the left of the second entrance is a Kurma Deity, Lord Vishnu as a tortoise.

This is a big temple. It has a seven-storey gopuram, built in 1628. There are carvings depicting the pastimes of the Ramayana and Lord Krishna’s pastimes on the second gopuram. This temple is located just off the main road, near the Bhima Hotel and the Tirupati railway station. The temple tower is hard to miss, but the rest of the temple is set back from the road.

Sri Venkateswara Museum
There is a good museum right next to the Govindaraja temple. It has many sculptures, Deities of Krishna, and other interesting displays. There is also a photo exhibit of the important 108 Divya Desam Vishnu temples that were immortalized in songs by the Alwar devotees. Open 8 am to 8 pm.

Kothanda Rama Swami Temple
About two km from the Sri Govindaraja temple is the famous Kothanda Rama Swami Temple built in 1481. Sri Chaitanya had darshan of Lord Ramachandra Swami. The main festival of the year is in March-April, for Lord Rama’s appearance day.

ISKCON (Hare Krishna) Temple
The ISKCON temple (08574-20114), Vinayaka Nagar (Driver’s Quarters), is located at the foot of Tirumala Hill, on a piece of land given by the TTD. The Deities here are Radha-Govinda. The temple has a beautiful small garden. The temple is open 4.30 am to 1 pm and 4.30 to 8.30 pm. This temple is included in the daily bus tours of Tirupati.
There is a good guest house next to the temple that has very nice, clean rooms with hot water for Rs 150. It is best to book a room in advance. Prasada is usually available during main meal times. From downtown it costs about Rs 75 by auto-rickshaw to get to the ISKCON temple and back, with an hour waiting time.

Padmavathi Temple
In Tiruchanur, five km from Tirupati, is this large temple dedicated to goddess Padmavathi, the consort of Lord Venkateswara (Balaji). A visit to Tirupati is not considered complete without seeing Sri Padmavathi. Sri Padmavathi is seated in Padmasana, holding a lotus in both of her upper hands. Her lower hands are in poses of abhaya, fearlessness, and varada, benediction. Also in this temple are the Deities of Sri Krishna, Balarama, Sundararaja Swami, and Surya-narayana Swami. It is traditional to first worship Sri Krishna and then to take darshan of Sri Padmavathi.

Non-Hindus are technically not allowed in the temple. To enter you may be asked to sign a paper testifying to being a Hindu. There is a short wait to see the Deity, or for Rs 5 you can enter a special darshan line.

Once a year there is a large festival that celebrates the marriage of Lord Venkateswara to Padmavathi Devi. Padmavathi Devi arrives at Tirumala on the back of a splendid elephant decorated with tilaka of solid gold as Lord Sri Venkateswara comes out to meet her.

The main festival, Brahmotsavam, is in Nov/Dec. The ninth day of this festival is the appearance day of Sri Padmavathi. On this day Lord Sri Venkateswara presents his consort birthday gifts, which are brought from Tirumala on a magnificently decorated elephant, covered with jewels and pearls.

In the Area
At Kapila-teertham, a sacred tank two km from Tirupati, is the Kapileswara Siva Temple where the sage Kapila was granted darshan of Lord Siva and his consort. Bathing in Kapila-teertham is supposed to extinguish all sins. This temple is situated in an attractive surrounding.

At Narayanavanam, 36km from Tirupati on the road to Chennai, is a temple dedicated to Lord Kalyana Venkateswara Swami. It is believed to be the place where the marriage of Lord Venkateswara and the goddess Padmavathi originally took place. After marrying Sri Padmavathi, Sri Venka­teswara stayed here for a while before going to Tirumala.

Chandragiri Fort, 11km southwest of Tirupati, is where the third Vijayanagar capital was located in the 16th century. There is a small museum there, which contains weapons and sculptures. Open daily except Fri 10 am to 5 pm.

Where to Stay—Lower
Gopi Krishna Deluxe, by the railway station, has rooms with attached bath for Rs 90/125.
Vasantha Vihar Lodge (222-0460), about a minute walk from the railway station, has basic rooms for Rs 175/200.
New Bhimas Home is a decent place with rooms for Rs 400. If the other places in town are full, there is a good chance there will be a room here.
Bhimas Hotel (222-5744), 42 G Car St, is a suggested place with rooms for Rs /300, deluxe rooms for Rs 400, and A/C rooms for Rs 700.
The two-star Bhimas Deluxe Hotel (222-5521; fax 25471), 34/38 G Car St, has comfortable, clean rooms for Rs 600/650 and Rs 950/1000 with A/C. Both these places are a five-minute walk from the railway station and have vegetarian restaurants.

Where to Stay—Middle
The new Bhima’s Paradise (222-5747; fax 222-5568), Renigunta Rd, a little out of town, has a pool and is spotlessly clean. Rooms with bath and TV are Rs 1050 and Rs 1300/1400 with A/C.
Hotel Vishnu Priya (222-5070), opposite the Central Bus Stand, has rooms with TV for Rs 1000/1100 and A/C rooms for Rs 1400/1500.
The well-managed, three-star Hotel Mauyra (222-5925, fax 25911), 209 T P Area, 1km from the railway station, is one of the best places in town. It has rooms with bath for Rs 550 and Rs 750/850 for an A/C room. They change money. It has a good vegetarian restaurant. They accept major credit cards.
Near by is the Oorvasi International Hotel (222-0202), Renigunta Rd, which has rooms for about the same price.
Hotel Guest Line (222-8800; fax 222-7774), 14-37 Karakambadi Rd, 3½ km from station, is a good place with clean, well-furnished A/C rooms for Rs 1500/1800 to Rs 2800 for a suite. It has a pool and health club. It has a 24-hour veg restaurant that serves thalis for Rs 50.
Quality Inn Bliss (222-5793) is a very clean, good place with rooms for Rs 1200/1500. Accepts major credit cards. You can reserve a room in Chennai (044-825-9090). It has the A/C Navrattan veg restaurant which serves South and North Indian food (7 am to 11 pm) and the Khazana which has Andhra cuisine, Chinese, Continental and Indian.

Dharamshalas
There is free accommodation at two dharamshalas (unfurnished rooms) connected with the two main temples in Tirupati—Sri Govindaraja temple and Sri Kodanda Rama temple. There are furnished rooms at Sri Venkateswara Dharamshala, SV Guest House, Sri Padmavathi Guest House, and the TTD (Alipiri) Guest House for Rs 50 to Rs 200 a night.

Where to Eat
Lakshmi Narayana Bhavan, across from the bus stand, is a good place. $-$$.
Bhimas Hotel, 42 G Car St, is a good veg place.
Surya Restaurant, in the Hotel Mayura, is a good veg restaurant serving both North and South Indian dishes.
Sri Oorvasi International has a high-class, recommended vegetarian restaurant.
Bharani Restaurant, at the Bhima’s Paradise, Renigunta Rd, has South Indian snacks and North Indian dishes.

Travel
Air The Indian Airlines office (222-5349; Airport: 227-5336) is at the Hotel Vishnupriya, opposite the Central bus stand. There are daily flights to Bangalore ($120) and flights to Chennai ($60, Tu, Thu, Sat), and Hyderabad ($120, Tu, Thu, Sat). The airport is 15km from the city center.

Train There are four express trains daily going between Chennai and Tirupati. Tirupati to Chennai Saptagiri Exp #6058 (5.30 pm, 3½ hr), Tirupati-Chennai Mail #6054 (10.05 am, 3¼ hr), Shatabdi Exp #2036 (7.45 pm, 2½ hr). Chennai to Tirupati Shatabdi Exp #2035 (5.45 am, 2½ hr), Saptagiri Exp #6057 (6.25 am, 3½ hr), Chennai-Tirupati Mail #6053 (1.50 pm, 3 hr).

As Tirupati is a popular pilgrimage place, there are express trains that go to many locations in India, especially in the South. There is a direct train to Mumbai, the Tirupati-Mumbai Exp #7494 (9.40 pm, 24 hr) on Monday and Friday. On other day to get to Mumbai you first take the Saptagiri Exp to Chennai (wait 45 minutes) and then take the Chennai-Mumbai Exp #6010 (10.20 pm, 30½ hr). The total travel time is 35 hours.

Hyderabad Rayalaseema Express #7430 (7 pm, 16½ hr); Mysore Tirupati-Mysore Exp (10 pm, 12 hr); Tiruchirappalli Tirupati-Tiruchirappalli Exp #6801 (3.40 pm, 12½ hr). The Tirupati-Puri Exp #8480 (2.50 am, Sat) goes to Puri (22½ hr) via Vijayawada (11 hr) and Visa­khapat­nam. The Tirupati-Howrah Exp #7480 goes daily to Calcutta via Visakhapatnam, Khurda Road (for Puri which is another two hour train ride away) and Bhubaneswar. There are two other trains daily to Vijayawada. There is one train a day to Madurai (19 hr), and two trains daily to Chidambaram and Tiruchirappalli. The Tirupati-Madurai Exp #6799 (3.40 pm) goes to Madurai (19 hr) via Tiruchirappalli (14 hr), Thanjavur (12 hr), and Chidambaram (9½ hr). The Cochin-Varanasi Exp #7089 (1.45 pm, Sat) goes to Varanasi (38 hr) via Allahabad (35 hr).

Bus The APSRTC Central bus station (22333) is about 2km from the railway station, on the same road. Express buses from Tirupati to Chennai depart at 9.45 and 11.15 am, and 12.15, 2.45, 3.10 and 8.30 pm.

There are express buses (bus #802) from the Thiruvalluvar Bus Station in Chennai (4 hr) at 8.15 am, 3.30 pm and 8.30 pm. The express buses can be booked in advance. There are many other local buses, which can take a long time. The train from Chennai is much more comfortable. There are daily tour buses from Chennai that go and return the same day.

You can take direct buses to Hyderabad (14 hr, 10 daily), Tiruchirappalli (9½ hr, 4 daily) via Vellore (2½ hr), Madurai (5 daily), Vijayawada (hourly) and Bangalore. It is better to take a train to Hyderabad.

There are some direct buses to Kanchipuram (3 hr). There are also regular buses that go to a small town by Tirupati (20 min), from where you change to another bus to Kanchipuram..

Pop: 1 million
Phone Code: 0866

Vijayawada is on the banks of the Krishna River, about 70km from the sea. There are several ancient temples in the area and an ancient Hindu cave temple. If you are interested in visiting the famous Buddhist site of Amaravati, this is a good starting point. One of the main temples near Vijayawada is the Pana Narasimha Vishnu temple in Mangalagiri.

Information
There is a Tourist Office (257-0255) at the Hotel Krishnaveni. There is an AP Tourism counter at the RTC Bus Stand (252-3966) and at the railway station. They run a full day tour of the area, and a tour to Amaravati.

You can hire a tourist taxi from AP Tourism (75382), Krishnaveni Motel, Seethanagaram.

You can change money at the State Bank of India on Babu Rajendra Prasad Rd, State Bank of Hydearbad. and the Millennium Foreign Exchage, MG Rd (Mon-Sat 10am-8pm). The HDFC Bank, Mahalakshmi Towers, Raja Gopala Archan has ATM that takes Visa and Mastercard.

The District Telecom Office (MG Rd) has good Internet connections (Rs 30)

Places to See
There is an interesting 5th century five-storey cave temple at Undavalli, which is close to the village of Sitanagaram. On the third storey is a hall with a huge figure of Vishnu reclining on the snake Ananta. There are several other interesting carvings of Lord Vishnu in this temple. There is a shrine to Trimurti (Brahma, Vishnu & Siva) (Admisssion Rs 100) It is about 4km south of Vijayawada, pass Sitanagaram. You can get here by taking any bus going to Guntur.

There are several temples carved in stone at Indrakila, which is said to be the place where Arjuna got the Pasu­pathastra weapon from Lord Siva.

There are three ancient temples in Vijayawada—the Vijayeswara Swami temple, Kanaka Durga temple, and the Malleswara Swami temple (Mallikarjuna temple). The Malleswara temple is reputed to have been originally installed by Yudhisthira, the oldest of the Pandava brothers, to celebrate their victory in the south. The present temple was built by the Chalukya King,

Tribhuvana Malla, in the 10th century. The Vijayeswara temple is said to have been installed by Arjuna, the younger brother of Yudhisthira.

The deity in the Kanaka Durga temple is regarded as swayambhu, or self-manifested. The deity depicts the manifestation of Chandi (Durga) as the destroyer of the demon Durgama. This deity is said to have been worshiped by Agastya, Markandeya and the Pandavas. This is a popular temple, which is especially crowded on Fridays.

The Victoria Jubilee Museum (daily except Fri 10.30 am to 5 pm), Bander Rd, has a collection of paintings and sculptures that includes a huge granite statue of the Buddha.

Nearby Vijayawada
At Akiripalli, there is a temple on top of a hill dedicated to Vyaghra Narasimha, called Sobhanachala Swami. Also on top of the hill is a Siva temple called Malle-swaraswami Temple. Lord Vishnu as Vyaghra Narasimha is said to have incarnated in a cave on top of the hill here. There is a large gopuram at the bottom of the hill.

There is a huge tank here called Varaha-pushkarini—almost a hundred acres—which is said to have been dug by Varahadeva, Lord Vishnu in his boar incarnation. To get to Akiripalli you can take a bus from Vijayawada.

Where to Stay and Eat
The best cheap place to stay is the Hotel Swapna Lodge (257-5386), Durgaiah St, near the Navrang Cinema, 2km from the station, which is a clean place with rooms for Rs 150/200. It has some A/C rooms. It is on a quiet street.
There are dorm beds at the bus stand for Rs 85 (men only).
The railway Retiring Romms at the railway station are Rs 125/175 and Rs 300 with A/C. Dorms beds Rs 50; A/C dorm beds Rs 125.

Shree Laksmi Vilas Modern Cafe (257-2525), Besant Rd, Governorpet, about a km from the railway station, has rooms with attached bath for Rs 150/200 and with common bath for Rs 125/150. This place has a good vegetarian restaurant.
Hotel Manorama (257-1301; 257-7221), MG Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 700/850 and Rs 1050/1250 with A/C.
Shanthi Hotel (257-5056), Elluru Rd, near the Apsara Theatre, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 750/950. It has a very good vegetarian restaurant.
Krishnaveni Motel (257-6382) is a good place with rooms for Rs 750 and Rs 900 with A/C. It has a nice garden and is quiet.
Hotel Raj Towers (257-1311) has rooms with bath for Rs 700/800 and Rs 950/1050 with A/C.
Hotel Ilapuram (257-1282; fax 257-1251), Besant Rd, 1km from the railway station, has good rooms for Rs 950/1050 and Rs 1150/1250. It has a veg and a non-veg restaurant. It is a good place.
The best hotel in town is the fully air-conditioned, three-star Hotel Kandhari International (257-1311), MG Rd. Rooms are Rs 1100/1250.

Where to Eat
Sri Durga Bhavan and the Tilotthama Hotel, near the bus stand, have vegetarian restaurants.
The vegetarian restaurant in the Hotel Nandini, near the bus stand, is a good, recommended place.
Chaya Hotel, Governorpet, has South Indian food.
Santhi Hotel, Elluru Rd, has a really good vegetarian restaurant.

Travel
Vijayawada is 445km north of Chennai, 380km north of Tirupati, and 365km south of Visakhapatnam.

Air The Indian Airlines office (257-2218) is opposite the Old RTO Office, Bandar Rd. There are flights to Mumbai, Hyderabad, Calcutta and Bhubaneswar. A taxi from the airport (20km) costs Rs 200.

Train Vijayawada is on the main Chennai-Delhi and Chennai-Calcutta lines. Information call: 67771. The Tirupati Express goes to Puri and Tirupati.
The Coromandel Express #2842 (3.20 pm) takes 21 hours to get to Calcutta via Bhubaneswar (13 hr). The Konark Express #1019 (2.40 pm, 14 hr) goes to Bhubaneswar. The Coromandel Exp #2841 (10.45 am) takes 7 hours to go the 432km trip to Chennai.

The Tamil Nadu Express #2621 goes to Delhi (3.50 am, 28 hours, 1761km). The Konark Express #1020 goes to Secunderabad (4.40 am, 7 hr) and the East Coast Exp #7045 goes to Hyderabad (12.30 pm, 9 hr). There are direct trains to Varanasi, Bangalore and Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum).

There are several trains a day to Visakhapatnam and Srikakulam Road.

Bus The large, new bus terminal is 1.5km from the railway station. It has waiting rooms and dorms. There are regular buses to Hyderabad (6 hr), Visakhapatnam (10 hr, 7 daily) and Chennai (10 hr, 2 daily).

Pop: 1.3 million
Phone Code: 0891

Visakhapatnam is called Viraz for short. There are a couple of nice beaches in this city, with crystal-clear warm ocean water. Two beaches are Mission Beach, about 3km from downtown, and Lawson Beach, 6km away. Ramakrishna Beach, along Lawson Bay, is a good beach. One of the best beaches is about 10km north, at Rishikonda. Because of the strong current, swimming can be dangerous here. Swimming at the harbor end of the beach is not recommended.

The main spiritual reason to come here is to go the Varaha Narasimha temple at Simhachalam, 16km north of Visakhapatnam.

Information
The railway station is a couple of km from the center of the city. It is about 1½ km from the bus stand.

The APSRTC State Tourist office (276-3016) is on the 1st Floor of the Nehru Nagar Complex (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm). There is also a tourist office at the railway station. They do a tour of the city for Rs 175 which also includes the Simhachalam Temple.

Andhra Pradesh Tourism (274-6446) does a day-tour of the city that also goes to the Simhachalam Temple for Rs 180)

Taj Travels (275-5141; 275-5985), Meghalaya Hotel, is an estab-lished travel agency.

Non-guests can use the pools in the Palm Beach and Hotel Park for a fee.

Where to Stay—Lower
The Retiring Rooms at the bus stand are well-maintained and a good value. At the railway station there are large, good standard Retiring Rooms for Rs 250, as well as cheaper dorm beds.
Hotel Poorna (276-2344), Main Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 150/200.
Hotel Prasanth (276-5282), Main Rd, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 250/300.
Hotel Karanths, 33 Patel Marg, near the railway station, is a good, reasonably priced place that has clean rooms with bath.
Saga Lodge, near the beach, has rooms with common bath and some with bath and a balcony. It is a good place.

Where to Stay—Middle To High
Meghalaya (275-5141; fax 275-5824), Asilametta Junction, near the bus stand, is a good place with rooms for Rs 600/650 and Rs 700/800 with A/C. It is a recommended, well-managed place.
The three-star Hotel Daspalla (276-4825; fax 276-2043), Suryabagh, in the center of town, has rooms for Rs 650/700 and Rs 850/900 with A/C. It is a good place with two good vegetarian restaurants.

The four-star Dolphin Hotel (276-7000), Dadagardens, in the center of town, has a pool and rooms for Rs 695/895 up to Rs 1500/1600. It has a good rooftop restaurant. It is well-managed and it is best to book it in advance. Recommended.
The three-star Hotel Apsara (276-4861), Waltair Main Rd, costs Rs 800/1000 for a room with A/C. It is a friendly place.

The best places to stay are the beach hotels in Waltair.
The two-star Ocean View Inn(275-4828; fax 2763-234), at the northern end of the beach, is a good, comfortable, quiet place. Rooms are Rs 600/700 and Rs 700/900 for an A/C room.
Palm Beach Hotel (275-4026), north end of Beach Rd, has a good location, but is a little run-down. It is a good choice for a cheaper middle-class place near the beach. Rooms are Rs 700/800 and Rs 800/900 with A/C.
One of the best places in town is the friendly modern Park Hotel (275-4488; fax 274-181), Beach Rd, right next to the beach, which has comfortable A/C rooms for Rs 2100/2400and suites for Rs 3500. It has a bookshop and a clean pool.
Taj Residency Visakhapatnam (276-7756; fax 564-370), Beach Rd, has recently been refurbished and has rooms facing the sea starting at $65/80. It has a pool.

Where to Eat
Swagath Restaurant, Main Rd near Poorna Market, has good cheap food.
There are two good restaurants at the Hotel Daspalla, one South Indian and the Vaisakhi Restaurant, which serves North Indian cuisine.

Travel
Air Indian Airlines (274-6501; Airport 275-8221) has flights to Bhubaneswar ($105), Calcutta ($130), Chennai ($105), Delhi ($275), Hyderabad ($140) and Mumbai ($150). The airport is 15km from the city center. An auto-rickshaw is around Rs 175 and taxi Rs 300.

Train Visakhapatnam is on the main route between Calcutta and Chennai. Bhubaneswar Coromandel Exp #2842 (10.35 pm, 7 hr), Calcutta Coromandel Exp #2842 (10.35 pm, 13 hr), Howrah-Chennai Mail #6004 (2 pm, 17 hr), Chennai Coromandel Exp #2842 (4.50 am, 13 hr), Howrah-Chennai Mail #6004 (2.30 pm, 17 hr), Hyderabad (700km) Godavari Express #7007 (5 pm, 11 hr), Konark Exp #1020 (10 pm, 13 hr). There are also trains to Tirupati, Chennai, Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), Bangalore, and Puri via Bhubaneswar. You can connect for a train to Mumbai by first going to Hyderabad or Nagpur.
Trains are often delayed, especially during the rainy season. It is a good idea to phone the railway station in advance to get information about the departure of your train. The phone number is 69421, Reservations (274-6234), Enquiries (569-421).

Bus You can get buses to all over the state and Puri in Orissa from the bus station (2746-400). It is convenient to take a bus to Srikakulam (3 hr) from here, as the train station in Srikakulam is 15km out of the way.

Sphere: Related Content